Ascents in Dragon's Tooth Area having Beta

Nice wide crack. Anchor options at the top are limited given the good trees burnt down in the last bushfire.

A few fun moves, pushing a #6. Then a long average ramble to the top

Really fun route. Used #5 at the start which was the crux of the route. Very cruisy after about 5 metres. Crack seemed to like #4 and #3s most of the way. Used a large boulder for an anchor and then walked back down. Would have loved some lower offs at the top

Dangerous crux(ledge)

Sick

Twilight sends with no wide gear, jsut beans and the slung pocket. Token beer chug with my Alex Honnold moment, looking out at the setting sun!

Onsight to the anchor at halfway. Got to second the top too. First half is classic, second half less so. Having 2 #4's was a nice luxury.

Traverse to anchors on the right felt a little sketchy and hard to protect. Very enjoyable

Classic - if only it was a bit longer!

Unfortunate sun aspect meant that the micro holds on this route were completely hidden

reopened my tip and spurted blood all over the crux crimps again.

Crux sequence from the good rail: RF heel hook, traverse hands out left until both are on the crimpy rail, bump RF heel hook up and get LF heel too, can clip off this and almost-statically get RH to bad horizontal crimp left of rusty carrot. work to more bad crimps on diagonal and then keep moving left until jugs and clip.

Top beta: crimp out right is deeper than it looks and much improves percentages on the throw. try not to grab a jugful of guano.

typical blueys crimps and throws, but with an atypical lack of chalk

Really nice. Softy, but the grade might hold for the onsight, the crux is pretty blind and there's zero chalk on it.

Desperate.

Very nice! Any bolting fairies want to chuck an extra bolt in the crux so this thing can get the attention it deserves?

Dave with that high quality beta 😘 Only the vertically challenged would need to dyno at the end.

Certainly deserves more attention, awesome rock and sweet moves, but getting a draw on the 5th bolt (4th ring) looked intimidating. It could be clipped with a 60cm draw from a reasonable position below. An extra bolt in the crux would reduce the risk of ledge falls and undoubtedly make this more popular.

Reeally nice rock

Bit gross at the bottom with good climbing and nice rock at the top with easy climbing.

Ben took the lead on this one. Decent route that's thrutchy at the start and then eases off in difficulty quickly

Maybe an 18 for a tall person. I had to dyno. Much steeper than it looks.

Fun easy climb. I thought there were anchors to the top so left all stuff down amd abseiled back down from a nearby tree and re-climbed it.

My brain didn't take note of the word wide when I read the guide. But it climbed much easier than it looks. Was nice to have a #5 and a #6. Top belay tree wasn't great but there's options to back it up.

Too short to be classic but it does cram the good stuff in. Better than I remembered. 20 years gets me deja-flash, but geez we musta got strong fingers faffing with carrots. 22 for old times sake.

seconding on burnt tree belay of an unknown quality... It'll grow bigger I think

Hopefully the tree belay keeps growing back.

Went second go after working out a crux sequence. A proud arete, with an interesting and sustained crux. The rest of the route isn't nearly as good, but its worth it for the crux.

Surprisingly hard arete climb with a few big moves

Had to pull on the quickdraw to get through the crux at the bulge, everything else was clean.

Climbing without cams made this a little hairy, there are some long gaps between the carrots. The crux on this is at the nose of the arête, moving from the right side of the arête to the left about two thirds of the way up, and it is difficult. Being above empty space, with no substantial feet, this felt like a solid boulder problem. I'd put this crux at a 19/20, and it really threw us. The rest of the climb is a 17 particularly, when cams are used. My climbing partner even on top rope, had a very hard time navigating the crux. This was the second grade 17 out of three for the day and we weren't stoked with the grading.

crux at the start then easy ground. bring big gear.

Got it second shot, couple of tricky crimps over the bulge then just a bit pumpy. Can't give it three stars because of the average first 12m of climbing on Lichen.

Decent, took the easier variant on the left, just climbed less contrived. Used a Red and a Blue cam from memory.

Super stiff couple of moves for 18. Actually slipped off the left hand crimp above the second draw on the first shot. Very disappointing hahah.

Such a fun climb, awesome crack. Wish the climb on the right put the anchors up higher, would be nice to share that overkill anchor. Instead of topping out and/ or rapping off the gum tree/bush.

Pretty fun really, though should just have one more bolt at the start and be a sport route. Wandered back and forth between arete sides as it seemed contrived to stick to just one.

Pretty fun but not three stars. The start detracts and then it's all over too fast. Brilliant short section on great rock though.

Realllly quite hard but actually pretty awesome pure slabbing. Figured it all out and I think I could do it without too much effort, but oh boy is it insecure, and reachy. I also contrived myself quite hard to make sure I was having a full value slab experience. There is a spot or two (especially at the top) where the climbing becomes more escapable. Tried it twice on TR.

Actually completely brilliant. Has to be up there with Honey Dip for best easy things in the mountains, and such a line too!! I really loved it.

Nails for the grade!

Tried to do this but found it really hard from the second to third. Crimpy and slightly overhung with a dynamic move to a big jug. Maybe if I wasn't injured, was fresh and taller then it would feel like an 18. Back cleaned in the end because I wasn't keen on falling lots on my injured leg (pulled hammy).