Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Sail Away Wall | ||||||||
28 | ★★ Cockatoo Country - with Geoff Johnston-Hall | 45m, 13 | ★ Good | Tue 27th Dec 2022 | ||||
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33 34 | ★★★ Little Empty Boat - with Dave Cook, Brooke | ★★★ Classic | Sat 11th Jul 2020 | |||||
Just to the first anchors which I'm told is 30ish? I Didn't do a move at the second bolt but I think I probably can manage it, then did everything up to the two move crux which I could barely touch, and then I fell off the lip turn a few times and came down. Totally totally mega, and the full route looks like the most insane piece of rock climbing, oh man! One for the dream list!
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33 34 | ★★★ Little Empty Boat | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 7th Oct 2012 | |||||
#FA wow!! an absolutely insanely fantastic pitch of climbing. props to vince for the bolting epic. by far the hardest route ive done, so psyched. leap start then keep on pumpin to the mantle. GET ON IT!!!
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34 ~34 | ★★★ Little Empty Boat | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th May 2023 | |||||
My best send! This climb is absolutely mind blowing!! Mega adventure! Beautiful location, nice wall, variety of different holds, positions and style. Very pumpy and long with a top out on slopers. MUST WHIP 💯!!! MUST TRY 💯!!! I had soooo much fun trying it. It took me a while to send it but I was never tired of trying it. La Niña was a big part of the send delay. Water was leaking through the rock for a year on the first crux and the top was wet too.
What comes to the grade, it is definitely harder and pumpyer than any other 33's you can find, definitely deserves to be upgraded to 34. Definitely deserves more attention!! |
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34 | ★★★ Little Empty Boat | Sat 3rd Jun 2023 | ||||||
Been wanting to jump on this for years, and took the opportunity while the draws were still there. It did not disappoint. Incredible climbing and rock. Didn't quite make it to the top, but I'll be back. Well done Sasha!!
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 10th May 2008 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Jan 2015 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 23rd Jan 2016 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Feb 2016 | ||||
Project shopping. Was a little gassed after a couple shots on sail away but was happy to try the moves. Wasn't able to link through to the first bolt of 3 of the crux will like to come back fresher and stronger.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Lee Cujes | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th May 2016 | ||||
Extremely windy post work session with Lee Cujes . Apparent temp. 2 degrees. Fun drive-by crux.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Dave Hoyle | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th May 2016 | ||||
Froze off the flash.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Dave Hoyle | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th May 2016 | ||||
Great to do this in an express after-work session. Run in - team send - stumble out. [2]
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Dec 2016 | ||||
Just a little play as the draws were on. Fell off before it gets hard.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Dec 2016 | ||||
Draws were on so we thought why not! A nice warm down up until the first harder moves. Not ideal jumping on after its been baking in the afternoon sun, but fun to suss out some of the moves for a return trip.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Mon 19th Jun 2017 | |||||
christ alive... this climb is ludicrously cool. the crux sequence pretty much blew my mind. got all the moves on the first burn which im happy with. the drive by i can see being a little low percentage for me but im sure it will go with further fine tuning of the rest of the route. keeen
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Apr 2018 | ||||
Should of sent second shot but puntlife. Classic route, hope to come back next week.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 9th Apr 2018 | ||||
Took me a while to stick the drive-by move, turns out a quick match with the left is the only way possible for me. Such a cracker line!
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Apr 2018 | ||||
The punt saga continues. Reverse progress in the howling wind. Just couldn’t find my mojo today.
Next week.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Paul Frothy Thomson, Jason Nguyen | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Apr 2018 | ||||
It was primarily a shooting day for me but couldn't resist the temptation. After jumaring up the proj' next to it and watching Ben and Mitch trying hard, I thought why not give this a go.
I stopped at the no-hand rest after the drive-by as the boys wanted to give it another go and I didn't want to stand in the way, but very much to my surprise, I did all the moves.
Not in shape to send that any time soon, but definitely keen to go back and play.
If I keep trying long enough, who knows what could happen...
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Apr 2018 | ||||
New high point... Beta refining each lap made the last shot of the day my best...
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Apr 2018 | ||||
I punt no more..
Glad to take this down first shot today. Should of sent 2nd shot but it took an embarrassing 9 shots. Not that sorry about it as its a very fun route to climb. |
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Apr 2018 | ||||
4 shots today clean to the drive-by... Hopefully next time.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Harry Kadi, Paul Frothy Thomson, Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Heath Black | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 22nd Apr 2018 | ||||
Warmed up on the first half and then had a play on some of the upper pocket moves, bailing before arriving at the crux in fear of flash pump.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 6th May 2018 | ||||
Just taaap it in, just taaaap it in.... tap tap taparoo
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th May 2018 | ||||
2 x Exploratory laps. Bailed from the final moves, with the highpoint a few moves ABOVE the driveby crux. The crux section is high quality (though I found the setup sequence kinda sharp and unpleasant), with the sloper-pocket section and the driveby itself being particularly cool (on great rock), but I would definitely get sick of lapping the lower 15m to get to the Money on every shot. Kinda scary bolting.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 23rd May 2018 | ||||
Only had two attempts, too tired. All the moves go easy, classic first blueys route and something to come back to.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Jake Anderson, Dan Brown | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 24th Dec 2018 | ||||
First sesh ever on it. Managed to get up the the drive by but bailed due to much pumpness. Worked the pockets sequence and it went down beautifully on my last shot of the day. Will come back and send... hopefully...
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Karen Allan | 25m | Fri 28th Dec 2018 | |||||
Up to the start of the crux. Fell a couple times off the pockets. Will go back to it in better conditions.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Dan Brown | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 10th Feb 2019 | ||||
Best sesh ever on it. Got my high point and stuck the drive by twice after polishing them set up sequence. Almost ready for some red points! Left 4 draws up at the crux sequence.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Mon 11th Mar 2019 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 18th May 2019 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | ||||
A year since last visit to Returnity. Bit of a refresher first lap. Very happy with fast progress and feel back to where I was last year. Hopefully this time around I can strike the killer blow!
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 9th Jun 2019 | ||||
Rinse, repeat...
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Geoff Johnston-Hall | 25m | Sun 2nd Jun 2019 | |||||
Went up for a suss after hearing good things!! Awesome rock, I really sucked this!!
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th May 2019 | ||||
Keen to come back and figure out that crux
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 22nd Jun 2019 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Paul | 25m | Tue 24th Dec 2019 | |||||
Got up to the slopey pockets. Something to come back to. {3}
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 31st Dec 2019 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Dan Brown | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 7th Oct 2020 | ||||
Went up and put up draws, came down, had a rest and went for it. Super clean to the slot, shook off and went again but dry fires off the average crimp above. Sat for 5 minutes and went to the top. Real bummer... so close but so far...
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sat 10th Oct 2020 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Marie | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sun 17th Jan 2021 | ||||
Nice one! Pumpy. Took me a while as I only seemed to try it when I was trashed at the end of weekends...
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 7th Feb 2012 | ||||
Couple goes last year 1st today
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Lewis | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 16th Feb 2021 | ||||
Two goes and managed all the moves okay. Three for three on the drive by. Felt quite slippery at times but it was somehow raining and also in the sun so that may explain it. Pretty keen to come back. (x2)
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Harry Kadi, Dave Cook, Ryan Macpherson, Liz Chong, Danny, Lewis | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Tue 30th Mar 2021 | ||||
Made some okay links. Went from the jug slot through the drive by but then jumped off when i should have tried for the overlapping one hang, fool. I shall try more after my trip. (x3)
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Will Vidler, Liz Chong, Lewis | 25m | Tue 30th Mar 2021 | |||||
First time on this, probably won't be the last.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 5th Apr 2021 | ||||
Only saw Blake on the crux part and pretty much onsighted the rest! But that was helpful so going to claim it a flash!
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 11th Jan 2022 | ||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Lewis, Jayden | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 18th Apr 2022 | ||||
Three goes. One hang on the second and then the wheels fell off and I could barely go bolt to bolt on the third.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Joe Faulkner, Jack, Louis Berthier | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th Jan 2023 | ||||
28 Hard | ★★★ Returnity — 2 attempts - with Bill Mansfield | 25m | Sun 29th Jan 2023 | |||||
Stiff boulder that isn't over until the drive by.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Justin Gormly | 25m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 25th Mar 2023 | ||||
Went up to just past the pockets (before it gets serious) as my warm up (22ish up to here). Sweet looking climb. Will save it for the future
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Sasha | 25m | Fri 14th Apr 2023 | |||||
Another day; another dog. Moves done, but harder than expected. Two hard sequences. Slightly slippery holds?
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sat 15th Apr 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Fri 21st Apr 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Sasha | 25m | Fri 21st Apr 2023 | |||||
A second session. Pretty similar to the first. Main issue for me is that working the crux sequence(s) is quite consuming...
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | |||||
Fantastic v7 boulder sandwiched by easier, but still fun, climbing
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28 Hard | ★★★ Returnity — 2 attempts - with Renee | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 19th Jul 2023 | ||||
Pretty stoked to finally send this 4 years after first trying it, with many tries in varying connies since. Longest term proj by far! Thanks to Renée for leaving the Shipley sun bath to give me a catch on it 🙏🏼🤩
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Fri 25th Aug 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sun 27th Aug 2023 | |||||
#2nd go, couldn’t keep the jug due to a poorly placed right foot.
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28 Hard | ★★★ Returnity - with Aidan Cox | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Sep 2023 | ||||
Every hold felt greasy, from the pockets to the end of the drive-by. Idk if that’s a normal state of affairs for this route, but even a solid brush only helped a little.
Regardless, it’s a sick climb, although felt tougher than the last couple I’ve done of the grade |
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Bob Brown | 25m | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
Mega cool moves on this one. Thoroughly enjoying myself here. Another sick crew playing out in the sun. Thanks Bob Brown for the catch!
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with David Barrie | 25m | Sun 10th Sep 2023 | |||||
Couple warm up laps on the easy stuff
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sun 29th Oct 2023 | |||||
Project shopping, all the moves done, did the drive by first shot which is nice
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 3 attempts | 25m | Wed 8th Nov 2023 | |||||
Some good links on the second/third lap. Keen
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 4 attempts - with Jacques Beaudoin, Heath Black | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Nov 2023 | ||||
Very cool moves. Been wanting to try this one for a while.
4 shots, all one hangs except for the first exploratory lap. |
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 4 attempts | 25m | Wed 15th Nov 2023 | |||||
Good progress. 3rd attempt got the 1 sit, 4th attempt just went up to play with beta at the pockets so I get through it faster than grass growing. Very productive session
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 3 attempts | 25m | Sat 18th Nov 2023 | |||||
Fall off the drive by. 1 sit. Better beta to get the side pull for the drive by
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sat 18th Nov 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity — 3 attempts | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Mon 20th Nov 2023 | ||||
Still punting trying to latch the drive by. 3 goes.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 4 attempts | 25m | Sat 2nd Dec 2023 | |||||
Micro progress. Happy to get to the side pull every try, even with a taped up finger
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Fri 1st Dec 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sat 2nd Dec 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity — 3 attempts | 25m | Wed 6th Dec 2023 | |||||
From the slot through the drive by twice, even in the heat. Once with the crux draw already clipped, once having to clip as well. Also better foot beta for getting the side pull, hopefully not too bad on link.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 3 attempts | 25m | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | |||||
Three shots to the drive by. Feeling good but just not latching it
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 2 attempts | 25m | Sun 10th Dec 2023 | |||||
More humid, more tired. Probably should've gone somewhere easier, psyche is too high
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sun 10th Dec 2023 | |||||
I sure am returnitying
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28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Rowan Shortis | 25m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 12th Dec 2023 | ||||
28 Hard | ★★★ Returnity - with Matt King, David Barrie, alyssa smirnov, Blueoffset4lyf | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Dec 2023 | ||||
9.12.23 - It's such a strange feeling, you put so much energy into climbing a route and then one day it just all clicks and you find yourself holding that hold that had thwarted you for so many days.
After falling off the same move from the ground for maybe 8 sessions I expected to feel frustrated with myself, and this route. That didn't play out, how it had played out so many times years ago, when my outlook on climbing was so outcome oriented. With this route, I kept showing up to this climb with a wry smile, ducking the bar and dancing along the ledge, dumping my bag and gazing at the beautiful orange wall of rock with a sense of awe. This routine would continue many times - tie in, flow, sit, visualise, breath deep, flow, relax, commit, execute and fall with my hands sliding off the last hold of the crux. During the ample air time, I couldn't help but unleash an uncontrollable audible release of energy, all the way down like an elevator in free fall. Pulling up was exhausting but I couldn't help looking forward to the next time I could test myself, to feel that same sensation when you climb well. I really believe the feeling you get from climbing a route is proportional to the challenge, the unsuccessful red points and the mindset you adopt during that time. I like to think of it as "filling the cup", which means I enjoyed a big ol cup of satisfaction when I was able to climb this route. Ultimately, "nobody cares" so just enjoy each time you get to try something hard. Just keep showing up. Thanks Matt and Dave for the continued psych and patient belays! Roughly 16 sessions and maybe 45 tie-ins. |
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Fri 15th Dec 2023 | |||||
I can echo a lot of Jayden's sentiments on this one. Really enjoyed sieging this with Matt and Jayden too, it made a big difference to the psych and experience.
I tried 3 different betas for the crux -
I think they're all about as difficult as each other off rope, but the knee scum turns the crux from an arms heavy move to more of a technical move to keep the toe and knee set, which to me was the more doable option on link. |
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sat 16th Dec 2023 | |||||
New beta feels consistent
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 4 attempts | 25m | Sat 16th Dec 2023 | |||||
New beta is so good I fell off above the jug. Gotta keep on returnitying
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 3 attempts | 25m | Sat 23rd Dec 2023 | |||||
It's done! Fell off the flake above the crux again first attempt, then tied in an hour later still feeling pumped but somehow feeling fresher the higher I got. Battling the mounting pressure of leaving it behind for a year, very happy I could turn the focus away from the outcome and point it towards the execution of each move one by one. Definitely in the top 2 best performances I've ever done, maybe the best but maybe I'm just psyched.
31 shots over 11 sessions, longest project to date. Would've been longer without the big ol siege with Jayden and Dave. Stoked |
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 2 attempts - with Heath Black | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Mar 2024 | ||||
Crux hold was wet today.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 2 attempts - with Sasha | 25m | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | |||||
Bolt by bolt, sequence by sequence. flapper by flapper.
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28 ~29 | ★★★ Returnity — 17 attempts - with Rebecca | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
This route took quite too much time but it was fun to work on it for a while.
Today on my last shot I told my belayer that I was going to clean it and give up with this one, but something snapped in my brain while I climbed the crux and I decided a different foot further to the left for the drive-by and clip (crossing), and there it was - I found myself screaming and holding on. Found this red point much harder than all the other 29s and 30s that I’ve sent. Might not be my style. |
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 2 attempts - with Sasha | 25m | Tue 23rd Apr 2024 | |||||
From ground to lip crimps but could not clip. Change of beta there seems useful. Note: hard to see when the sun just comes over the hold. About flake: I don’t know if it’s moving (I did not no tone it but maybe I don’t pull hard enough 😂) but sure would be sad if it broke.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity — 3 attempts - with Sasha | 25m | Fri 26th Apr 2024 | |||||
Long-ish links.
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28 | ★★★ Returnity | 25m | Sat 27th Apr 2024 | |||||
28 | ★★★ Returnity - with Sasha | 25m | Tue 30th Apr 2024 | |||||
Ground to lip; then from slot to top, including the famous clip. Return in spring a little stronger?
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27 | ★★ Black Heathen (extended) | 42m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★ Black Heathen (extended) | 42m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★ Black Heathen (extended) | 42m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
27 | ★★ Black Heathen (extended) | 42m | ★★ Very Good | 2001 | ||||
A few extra shots required after onsighting the bottom part
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27 | ★★ Black Heathen (extended) | 42m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 17th Oct 2021 | ||||
2nd shot. A really hard face boulder-problem followed by a gritstone-esque sloper headwall that felt way harder on link than I expected. Probably should get done more often.
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27 | ★★ Black Heathen (extended) - with Sandra Gambino | 42m | Sat 29th Jan 2022 | |||||
Only went up into the crux to have a play, was very wet above. Did 2 clean laps to the first anchor at least which was nice. So not sure what quality to give it yet.
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24 | ★★★ Black Heathen | 25m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 16th May 2007 | ||||
stuffed the onsight... bummer
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24 | ★★★ Black Heathen | 25m | Tue 13th Apr 2010 |
This is a cool adventure with some strange rock, and interesting moves, marred by being very stop-start, and some hideously terrible bolting (the 3rd bolt is in a detached block I could remove with a crowbar if I wanted, and the 5th is so high its a groundfall on a committing move to get to it -consider bringing a #1 cam for this sequence).
I didn't manage the move to turn the "lip" on the slab (though I didn't really try) but had trouble route-finding on the area above the next bolt, hence the bail. Probably worth equipping/hold-finding/headpointing on the rap in, if you're keen on this.