Ascents in SSCC4 Area

We did a psycho free version of this(god and buddha know where the route goes) on the frigid day in my misspent youth, onsight and trad : )

was suckered in to having photos taken on this...go up..go down...no just hold that pose...never again! and i never even saw the pics! how rude!!!!

awesome 2nd shot. worthe its weight in gold

Finally found a way to get my lankiness through the crux! Such an awesome arete to climb : )

just couldn't link that move pulling the lip.

For me, first day back from holiday usually means climbing like a bag of rocks, but this was good! Glorious rock on the arete.

Fluffed the onsight by trying to avoid the flake and sticking to the arete. On the easier end of 25 but well worth doing if only for that amazing arete!

Quit at the crux when I tried climbing direct first shot, got my skirt stuck at the lip turn on the second. I will have to come back for redemption some day.

Clean ascent.

2nd shot. Almost a classic, marred only by the somewhat sandy start -though, it wasn't as chossy as I was expecting, and is much better than Soul Catcher P1. Quite easy at the grade (24?) but committing through the crux, and tricky to read when unchalked. Was a cruise 2nd lap, though.

Climbs really well. Not chossy either except just before you start the roof and that is pretty much avoidable. Ps what a difference a rest day made.

My style but it was too cold and too tired to onsight. I never quite figured out how to clip the second bolt on the arete but skipping it isn't a problem and the rest is probably a bit soft for 25.

A bit cheesy on the first pitch. One harder-than-average move and a dodgy finger knocked me back on the second. Doubled 50m ropes will reach the ground from the top chain (just).

Tricksy slab crux. Punted.

What a beast of a wall route. Really good. Looks intimidating but it's safe and good value. FH's on p1 and all rings on p2. [2]

Great route. P1 - led clean (adventurous for sport), P2 - climbed clean to bolt before crux. Couldn't make the final move of the crux and with a stretchy 2nd rope not on autobloc I ended up having to aid through to the break (seeing where I should have been reaching for!). Climbed the rest fine - watch the rock at the top - I pulled a huge chunk off.

Hard second pitch, very height dependant I think. My second could reach between the breaks and found it not so bad. I was having to all out jump.Rather airy doing this on the arete.

Super choss corner that feels like it is going to try and kill you gives way to brilliantly committing, mildly terrifying arête balancing. Take some bolt plates (no mention of this in the guide book.

Hideous disgusting choss. Utterly offensive and terrible. I won't give the whole route a quality rating though because I didn't get to try the upper pitch which is obviously the reason to climb the route. Pitch one was just so so bad though! Bleh.

Onsight P1. Interesting climbing, but consists of actual disintegrating sand-choss for much of it.

Linked into P2 to try and climb it as a giant singlepitch, before getting scared of the rope grinding on the choss below and the alpine winds got the better of me. Reversed the crux and backjumped to the belay. Might be okay, but requires bolt plates, and probably a 0.5, 0.75 and 1 BD Cam to make it comfortable.

2nd shot. Put in a proper good effort on the "onsight" and just didn't find a single hold mid-crux. Committed, tried hard, read the route right. Gotto be happy with that.

A 5m section of hard arete climbing on P2, but the rest of the pitch is only about gr23.

Still cool, but looks better than it is, and its quality is tempered by the hideous 1st pitch, and the terrible equipping. Bareback is better.

Bring 4 x Bolt Plates, a 0.4, 0.75 and #3 cam -to supplement some crazy runouts and the bad bash-in carrots.

First pitch = choss central. Second pitch = scary, hard, but beautiful.

Simon's photo of Stephan in the guide has always captivated me so this one has been on my list for a long time, great to work up the nerve to actually try it! Struggled a bit but managed all the moves, placed a red alien in the early horizontal and wished for bigger cams up higher on the the run out easier ground. It's going to be a good one to pice together next time.

Okay, so I'm not one for top roping. I just didn't have the headset for the lead today, redpointed up to the last draw before toprope. Soo very freakily run out and crimpy.

Scary at first. Most draws are hard to put on.

I got on this while Kent got on Chook Lotto

Must have another go, very tricky,

About 2010 I think with Mike Lawrence. Led P2 and had one fall right at top before doing it.

Pitch 2. 2 shots, amazing pure arete climbing. The unprotected step across the void is a bit stupid though.

What's not to love, this route has it all. Old school corner stemming, thin slabbing, committing positions and awesome arête climbing with a little rooflet thrown in for good measure. P1; led by Andrew. Broke a previously glued flake right near the ground (directing the hold into his own testicles) making this more like a 24ish? sequence to get off the deck. P2; psyched to onsite.

Back on this mega classic. Forgot the sun gets on this early. Be back again in winter. Have a love/hate relationship with this route. Pulled through the start.