Cracker sunset, fluorescent pinks and oranges accompanied by singing lyrebirds in the valley below - magic. Hung the draws then fell off the last move, really like this route
Didn't get the left foot up higher once I had the right crimp before the push for the rail. Didn't bother with the undercling but that works too (left hand crimp then push to RH undercling)
Came back to Shipley for Language of Desire but it was so wet... Jumped back on this line thinking that this time I could do it and it was even worse than back in 2019. A bit devastating, haha... Ok, beta for next time: from the rail, left hand on the diagonal crimp, turn body left, right foot on small hold, left foot on rail (flaging right leg), stem/push right wall with right hand, find right crimp (low one, under pocket), squeeze body in corner, righ leg on jug (drop knee?), reach left hand to sloper, then right hand to hidden jug on the arete. I THINK...
Felt pretty darn hard.
Worked two betas through the bulgey corner.
Left hand up to diagonal crimp, right hand on crimp toward the right then bump the left foot from a nubbin to horizontal rail while right foot is drop kneeing off another nubbin. Felt barn doory but could almost hold it.
Other beta was to hang off the left crimp with the left foot on the rail while palm pressing with the right. Then bump the right hand up which felt superhard.