Help

Viewpoint Area

17

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Relatively easy to get to, the routes here are mostly single pitch, a mix of trad and bolt protected climbs, with a variety of orientations (so there are some sun and shade options).

Approach

A pleasant 20-25 minute walk from Catani campground. The signposted track starts a very short distance past the Lake Catani dam wall (from the campsite).

The first few listed routes here are on an outcrop that is easily seen from the tourist walking track. Leave the track just before it bends left then turns and sweeps up right to the lookout - i.e. less than 100m before the track reaches the lookout. It is a very short (20-30m?) off-track scramble up right to the outcrop. The top of this outcrop is perhaps 30m-40m northeast of the lookout.

Ethic inherited from Mount Buffalo

Climbing here varies from trad climbing, mainly up obvious lines and features, to sport climbing up slabs and sections of rock impossible to protect with natural gear. Of course, there are lots of climbs protected with a mixture of trad gear augmented with occasional bolt runners. Given that the trad ethic is still strong here, and the continuing need to minimize our environmental climbing 'footprint', please avoid unilateral decisions to retro-bolt and be restrained in using fixed protection when establishing new routes.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

Climbs the wall (that is initially almost vertical) that forms the left side of this outcrop. Starts approx 10m left of Roaring Silence and Dhalgren at the vertical crack.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust, 1991

Start as for Dhalgren. Up, clipping the first two bolts of that climb then up leftward to a small, hard-to-see 'carrot' bolt just right of the base of the unenticing looking shallow water-runnel (prone to moss after wet weather).

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1981

Should be popular for those wanting good quality climbs of this grade that have straight-forward access and are reasonably protected. This route starts at a small, inverted 'tongue'of rock near the lowest point of this area of cliffline, just below some small dykes that lead up and right. Originally climbed solo, it is now protected by five fixed hangers that show the way. Climb up a few body-lengths, via the first two fixed hangers, then follow the dyke right to a blunt arete. Slab up. The angle eases off for the last 10m or so. DBB - rap/lower off or scramble down around the back.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1981

From the slopey ledge from where Dhalgren starts, and about 2 or 3 metres right of the start of that climb, clip a bolt runner just reachable from the ledge. Gain the dyke just left of the bolt, then follow it rightward, past another bolt, then up right to clip a third. Stay low moving right into the thin seam of Flawed Vision (a few small RPs or equivalent wires advisable). Follow FV to its end (or up, trending a little left past the top bolt of Dhalgren if you prefer).

FA: Lachlan Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, Dec 2022

Not bad. Starts perhaps 10-15m right of Dhalgren where a boulder leans against the main wall, immediately below a thin seam/crack. Take a handfull of RPs or similar small wires to protect the seam. Bridge off the boulder to gain the seam, then climb this (not as hard as it looks from below) and continue up the left side of the summit roof/flake.

FA: Mike Wust, Hilary Lloyd, David Brereton & Jeremy Boreham, 1991

The route is approximately where the 'e' in choke is on the topo in the 2006 guide.

Where the track reaches the second tree with right pointing arrows on it, head to the left and downhill. There are several gaps between the boulders (cairn) and a short step down through these leads to an open area. On your right (facing out) is a left leaning corner crack.

Tree belay. Descend by rapping off tree.

FA: Ben Wiessner & Andrew Clark, 2012

This route and the next two are accessible via a large 'tunnel' through the boulders left of the base of the first set of steps and railing that lead up to the lookout. Walk 20m left of the railing and the 'tunnel' can be seen down right. On exiting the 'tunnel' walk around R (looking out) to Paradox and Just a Tad. To get to Positive Thoughts, either abseil from the base of Paradox, or scramble around.

  1. The main corner about 20m to your right (looking out) after exiting the 'tunnel'. Up corner, step R, follow arete to crack again. Up this and slabs to the top.

FA: Mike Wust & Jeremy Boreham, 1990

Usually needs a brush. Start across the snowgrass from Paradox.

  1. Up dyke past 3 BRs.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Hilary Lloyd, David Lia & Mike Wust, 1990

The flake-crack on the outcrop below Paradox.

  1. Up past 2 BRs then natural gear.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust, 1990

To access these next four routes it is worth doing a quick reconnaissance from the tourist lookout to locate the top of the buttress (down approximately west-southwest from the lookout) and the easiest way down to it. Scramble down then abseil from 3 bolts at the top of the buttress.

  1. Starts a little L of Arachnophobia (which is the R crack-line). Up small corner then R at FH to horizontal flake/ledge. Up past 3 FH and a BR to the top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeremy Boreham, 1995

The R crack-line. Up this. Where it finishes, step R past a BR then up past a FH.

FA: Jeremy Boreham & Mike Wust, 1991

FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1994

Don't bother.

  1. 25m. Up Arachnophobia to a ledge at 5m, then up R on dyke and traverse past Schiaparelli to belay below a crack.

  2. 25m. Keep traversing

FA: James McIntosh, Mike Wust & Jeremy Boreham

Start around the arete R of Arachnophobia at a steep crack-line. Up the crack then step L and up.

FA: Jeremy Boreham, Mike Wust & James McIntosh, 1992

This crag is unlocated

If you know where this crag is then please take a minute to locate it for the climbing community. Please contact us if you have any issues.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Murray and Kevin Lindorff

Date: 2006

"The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts.

The Mt Buffalo - A rock climbers guide is the definitive climbing guide book for the granite wonderland of Mt Buffalo. This area is for adventure climbing and for those that love the higher mountain landscapes and rock formations that are unique to the area. Mt Buffalo offers both single and multi-pitch climbs and mainly uses trad gear for protection but there is the odd sport climb around for those that only want to clip bolts. This 234 page guide is the most comprehensive guide for Mt Buffalo and even though being the 5th edition released in 2006, is the latest version."

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Thu 24 Feb
Check out what is happening in Viewpoint Area.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文