Routes in Omega Block

Another link up for when you have finished the rest. Climb Broomstick to jugs. Extend third bolt then traverse right to join the crux of HS original. Once through the difficulties finish as per Boogie RHV. More sustained than HS original. Could be closer to 27.

For those at the grade it's an excellent adventure through otherwise hostile territory.

Start as for 'Witch'. Head left along the large flake, joining 'Boogie til you puke' along the way. Clip Boogie's 5th bolt (on the arete) then traverse delicately left. Finish up the final groove of 'Broomstick', passing a carrot along the way.

Hard start off block immediately below camouflaged ring to boulder hanging arete and corner between Broomstick and Hollow Screams. From first jug near top of corner push back right past second ring to climb direct to the poor stance at the Hollow Screams 'half moon' jug (the big jug rests out left on broomstick and at the stance are both out). Finish via Hollow Screams original 26 crux. Or better and harder as Howling Wolf (same grade).

Completes the trilogy of excellent girdles on the left wall. Taking in the cruxes of most of the routes and requiring rope trickery and an attentive belayer to guarantee the safety of your ankles this is unlikely to gain too much attention... certainly not a route for a busy weekend! Start at Left Hand of Satan then very thin moves to gain the sloper and traverse on Satanic Verses until the large pocket. Easier moves right via Bop and Bewitched to gain the jugs on Broomstick at its third clip. Soak up the lactic and continue the charge right via Hollow Screams Original crux to finish up Boogie or Boogie RHV. Has also been finished up Wolf Variant.

Variant finish to Hollow Screams Original eliminating the jug and flake to right of the arete. Cool climbing and spicy runout makes this a fun way to stiffen up Depravity, The Howling or Hollow Screams Direct without changing their grades. Becomes the main event in Day of the Wolf. Gain the undercling mid crux in HSO then climb direct up arete/face to gain the hanging scoop (jug and flake to right out - and out of reach). Finish up Voodoo People headwall.

Superseded by "Boogie into 'Witch' LHF".

HSO to mid crux then Wolf Variant Finish.

Start up 'Witch', then move right and up past an awkwardly-positioned bolt (not as far right as 'Wishful Thinking').

29 version of HSD into Wolf Variant instead of HSO.

Depravity into Wolf Variant.

Yet another linkup: Start on Bop, traverse into Satanic Verses like for Satan Said Dance, but instead of following Satanic Verses to the top, keep traversing up left from the largish sloper-sidepull ledge via Between Good And Evil, finishing on the Left Hand of Satan. Probably been done before? Nice homogeneous difficulty from start to top.

Yep another LU, and it’s good with double crux. Start of Bop to third bolt (Bop crux), step right and diagonally up right (Metho crux) to high fourth bolt of Broomstick.

The way 'Witch' was originally climbed started as for 'Romulus' and moved left into the crack. Now superseded by the direct start.

An area 'classic'. Victoria's first 17, with a crux arguably deserving of at least a grade harder than that. Steep but juggy start as for 'Wishful thinking', then up the obvious crack all the way to the top.

This direct start is now the standard way to do the climb, but 'Witch Original Start' started as for 'Romulus' and traversed across left to the crack.

This grungy flared crack/chimney is quite incongruous amongst all the neighbouring sport routes!

Start: It's the obvious R-curving crack on the left side of the main 'Omega' face.

Rarely done but looks ok.

Start: Start 5m L of WR.

If you thought the 3 retrobolts would make the original grade of 22 a bit inflated, think again! This is one very tough unit, even with bolts every 2 metres. You don't want to stuff up the first few clips either. Lets give it the grade it deserves!

Start: 3m to the right of the chimney/crack on the L side of the main 'Omega' face, just R of a pinnacle/boulder. Climb straight up the groove of the dark, water runnel, finishing through the mossy chimney to the DRB.

Bouldery 24, desperate to break then easy.

Meant to be an excellent pumper - if you don't mind the hassles of such a wandery route.

Start: Start as for 'Bloodline', up to rest at 7m. R across wall to 4th bolt on Bop till You Drop. Slightly down and R to groove and up it join Broomstick. A better alternative is to climb diagonally up and right from BTYDs 4th bolt (more sustained, same grade).

If that’s not pumpy or wandery enough get a long rope and try Megatrexate 26... as per original to bewitched, but continue right via Voodoo People to jugs then a couple of hard moves to gain the OK holds halfway through the hard bit of wolf variant (FH). Climb it into the scoop, then right to finish up Boogie RHV. Requires lots of clips and an equally deranged second.

Surprisingly good climbing for a traverse! A great way to sample territory which is otherwise reserved for much harder routes.

Start: Start 1.5m L of 'Black Magic'. Up wall for 3m then diag R across Black Magic to Bloodline, up this for 2m then diag R to diagonal crack. Up crack and go R around bulges. Up a little to horizontal break which leads R to final blunt arete. Probably all bolts once you hit Bloodline.

Might see a few ascents now that it's sprouted some hardware. Start 1.5m L of 'Bloodline', 1.5m R of 'Black Magic'. After the third FH step right into Bloodline and up to double rings, or an even better option is to step R again to join the LH of Satan past it's last bolt.

Excellent, and not too hard for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Broomstick', off the top L side of the pinnacle/boulder. Rebolted 2014.

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

Like most short routes, a little tricky for the grade.

Start: Start 2m L of 'Powder Hound', off the top of the block.

Start off boulders under the single high carrot bolt.

May need a good brushing as the lichen and moss has reclaimed most of it.

Hidden in the moss, a far R fine flake feature.

Cruxy. Rebolted by the FA 2020. Start L of Black Magic as for 'Powder Hound'. Up short wall past 3 RBs to anchor to the R of 'Wee Ripper'.

Veer L from 2nd FH of BTYP to RBs on arete, then back R up small flake to rejoin BTYP. Crux bolt replaced 2015 after the original glue in started to move!

Up 'Romulus' to ledge below bolt on 'Wishful Thinking'. Up on right side of bolt to finger crack (bomber nut placement), avoiding the temptation to bridge across the 'Romulus' gap, then continue using crack or thin edges until jugs are reached.

This is the original which joins Bop halfway up.

Start: Start a few metres left of the big pinnacle/boulder. Who changed this to 27? Tell em they're dreaming! May have been mistaken for the direct but the original was always (26).

Another good route, this time just slightly harder than 'Broomstick', although the crux is still the bouldery start!

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick'.

Improves the original by keeping it independent to the top. Now best to finish direct to BGAEs new anchors. Soft touch.

Almost not worth recording as it's been completely superseded. Then again, many 'Melbourne' locals will probably become desperate enough to do it at some point. Up Boogie to its arete then trend diagonally R, through the little roof, and finish up Witch.

The original full arete line.

Start: Start 3m L of Boogie on the far R side of the big boulder. 29 if climbed direct (Boogie pillar out for hands and feet) but some will succumb to temptation to rest up right in the scoop or on the jugs out left at the same level, both of which are probably 28.

FIFTH BOLT HAS BEEN REPLACED 17/04/16

Almost certainly the most popular sport route within 3 hours' drive of Melbourne. Might be slightly solid for the grade... but it's a great route.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Witch', beneath a short finger crack which starts about 4m up.

Good value with 2 quite distinct options.

Start: As for Boogie and traverse left across scoop to join broomstick.

Has also been climbed diagonally up left from hollow screams to join Voodoo People at the scoop (marked in topo). This version is an excellent sustained 23 though a little run out. A suspiciously uniform edge left of the sharp crimps on HS and an ancient rusted carrot in the lower scoop suggests this may have been the original way it was climbed.

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

Start up Bop for 3 bolts, then move down and left into large pocket on SV. Finish up Satanic Verses Direct. Easier than SV original and HS original, but very nice. Traversing left higher (above the large pocket on SV) is an excellent and more sustained variant also at 26. A large nut can be placed after the last bolt if you don't like the run out to the top.

Salvages a precious sliver of hitherto ignored real estate for Melbourne's rock-poor locals.

Start: Start as for 'Broomstick' then up right and direct through scoop via RBs and optional #2 camalot to DBB. Rebolted 2015.

Rebolted in 2012. Excellent thin climbing previously graded 29, then 27 after a likely FA by Reuben. Much harder than SV Direct but still 27. Start immediately below high first bolt. Has also been climbed via SVs start at the same grade.

A much better way to approach 'Witch' LHF, with some nice independent moves in between.

Start: Start as for Boogie.

Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper. Somewhat usurped by SM but worthwhile. Adds 4m to Wee Ripper. Thin moves Diagonally past RB bring jugs on WR to hand. Finish up the original. Start at obvious jugs from platform down left of Wee Riper

Start as for "Good Things" and climb direct past 2FH. Move right to "Wee Ripper" anchors.

Squeezed in but the new climbing is completely independent and would be difficult to escape. Climb SV start to sloper then up and left into ultradirect line via thin hard moves. 3 rings and optional #8 wire up high to new DRB anchor. Crux hold damaged but has been repeated since.