A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Brendan Heywood Michael Moore John Lattanzio Campbell Gome Simon Dale Alan Ezzy Ben Vincent Simon Porter gordon grant Bryn Norris
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
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Table of contents
- 1. Savage Amusement Buttress 15 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. Savage Amusement Buttress 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
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Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: -30.598792, 151.804022
access issues
Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:
http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park
approach
Downstream from Hope Buttress and Y’s Move is a higher, overhanging cliff. This is the Savage Amusement Buttress. The climbs are described in this section from upstream to downstream. One route 'Poetic Justice' is on the back of this buttress and is easily seen as you approach from the south with Hope off to the left.
descent notes
From the top of 'Savage Amusement' walk over the back to an easy descent gully just next to 'Poetic Justice'.
ethic
Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a pretty laid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out. If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. The only request is that you avoid placing hangers or conspicuous bolts around the Gara Boulders as we are already viewed as an environmental menace by the NPWS - bolting in National Parks is actually illegal.
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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Back wallThere few routes face south on the back wall which you can see if you are approaching from the south, as for the approach to Hope Buttress. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Poetic Justice
The prominent arête on the back of Savage Amusement Buttress. 1 BR, #1 Rock, wires. Step across into the foot-holds (take care with small wire placement) then follow the arête past a BR and wires to the top. BR and tree (right back) for belay. FFA: Mark Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1988 | 21 | 10m, 1 | |||||
3 |
★ Tac Tic Toe
A crimpy face with a lot of flexing holds, climb delicately to leave some holds for the next climber FA: Ben Vincent, 26 Aug 2023 | 22 | 8m | |||||
4 |
★ Southern Comfort
The arete about 10m right of Poetic Justice. Technical crimps up the arete then traverse left to finish. FA: Brendan Heywood, Ben Vincent & Alec Eastwood, 26 Aug 2023 | 22 | 10m, 3 | |||||
Main cliffThe main cliff faces north and into the main gorge. | ||||||||
6 |
★★ Bootleg
The obvious corner left of Savage Amusement. Start from the same ledge. Up the crack. Belay to avoid rope drag. Wander right across ledge to finish up Savage Amusement. FA: Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1981 | 20 | 15m | |||||
7 |
★★ Savage Amusement
Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux. From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux). Chain anchor or top out. FA: Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1980 | 22 | 15m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Picnic at Hanging Rock
The route with the big block hanging out of it. 3 BRs, small wires, large stopper, #2 Friend, big muscles. Up an easy slab then some tricky moves to the cave under the roof. Clip the 1st BR then move out and up to the top of the block, clip 2nd BR then step onto the block, clip final BR then swing out an up to slab finish. Chain anchor or top out. FA: G. Stewart, 1988 FFA: Al Stephens & Mark Colyvan, 1989 | 25 | 10m, 3 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
Unknown / project?
Little slopers, could also be a direct start to 'Picnic at Hanging Rock' | V6 | ||||||
10 |
★★★ Confined
At the end of SA Buttress and just before Inertia is a cave made by a boulder stacked on two other boulders. To get to 'Inertia', you must scramble down into the entrance to the little cave these boulders create. Sit start under the cave on a large slopey pinch and head directly out the cave on sharp crimps to a slopey mantel top out. FFA: Alan Ezzy, 2012 | V5 | 2m | |||||
Inertia roofThe next step down left from the main face is a steep cave | ||||||||
12 | ★★ alternate end | |||||||
13 |
★★ Inertia
This route used to be an absolute bottler until early ‘99 when an unfortunate victim tore the entire flake out of the roof. The route’s still possible, albeit at a harder grade than the original 22. Here is the original description for history’s sake. start: The roof about 10 m down left of Bootleg. Exciting climbing on big holds. Up crack to roof, then move out left via the crack in the roof, and up the wall (crux) to belay ledge. Walk off. Has been done post flake falling off and is around the same grade. FA: Mark Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1980 | 22 | 10m | |||||
14 |
Unknown/Old Proj?
Two rings to double ring anchor 1m right of Inertia. No information about this route, likely an unsent project. It is one of the earliest routes with glue in rings somewhere in the late 90's. Feel free to post info if available. | 10m, 2 | ||||||
Middle wallThis wall is between the main wall and 'Psychosomatic Wall' and much taller. It is very fragmented with ledges but has potential. Access as for the back wall and rap in to half way. | ||||||||
16 |
★★ The Art of Misdirection
Start on the big jug on the corner about 5m left of 'Inertia'. Up and then technical traverse left across the face then up into cathedral roof for a good rest. Then a thrutchy exit through the roof, up the easy slab to anchors. FA: Brendan Heywood, Volodymyr K & Simon Porter, 18 Nov | 22 | 15m, 6 | |||||
17 |
★★ Capstone Project
Climb Springer and then change gears and bust left through the horizontal roof crack and mantle. FA: Brendan Heywood, 24 Nov | 21 | 15m, 3 | |||||
18 |
★★ Springer
A bouldery direct start. Up the face on interesting moves (crux) on to the ledge and up as for 'Keystone corruption' FA: Brendan Heywood, 23 Sep 2023 | 19 | 15m, 3 | |||||
19 |
★ Keystone corruption
Clip first bolt then head slightly right and up over the flakes, a good #1 placement (avoid gear on the detached arch). Onto the slab (crux) past 2 bolts, then a short unfortunate dirty wade through some lomandra then onto a short crack up to the anchor. FA: Brendan Heywood & Noah Craven, 23 Sep 2023 | 17 | 15m, 3 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
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17 | ★ | Keystone corruption | 15m, 3 | ||
19 | ★★ | Springer | 15m, 3 | ||
20 | ★★ | Bootleg | 15m | ||
21 | ★★ | Capstone Project | 15m, 3 | ||
★ | Poetic Justice | 10m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★ | Inertia | 10m | ||
★★ | Savage Amusement | 15m | |||
★ | Southern Comfort | 10m, 3 | |||
★ | Tac Tic Toe | 8m | |||
★★ | The Art of Misdirection | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★★ | Picnic at Hanging Rock | 10m, 3 | ||
V5 | ★★★ | Confined | 2m | ||
V6 | Unknown / project? | ||||
? | Unknown/Old Proj? | 10m, 2 | |||
★★ | alternate end |