Ascents in Carborundum Wall

Accidentally linked P2 with the start of Remains of the Day. Whoops! I started up P3 and after having to fight through the crux it became apparent that this was either the worst sandbag ever or we were off route. I lowered down a bit to review the terrain and eventually another party, who leapfrogged us on ROTD, called out that we should be 15m to the left. I was worried about time (and partly couldn't be arsed climbing the 21 again to clean the route), so we pulled the rope from the highest quickdraw and rapped back to the top of P1, ROTD.

There were some really cool moves up through steep rock and two shallow chimney features. Would be keen to come back and climb this whole route properly.

Enjoyable route! The first pitch seemed pretty stiff at the grade, but could be lack of fitness or shaking off the cobwebs. Pumped out and got the sequence wrong at the crux on the third pitch, one rest saw me pull through the moves. I didn't encounter and loose rock, I'll be back to send.

runout

First 4 pitches to approach overexposed

Tried to climb Banished, couldn't find it - ended up on this guy instead. The third pitch it worth the price of admission.

Did First pitch then linked in to Remains of the Day.

Did pitch one as a standard sport route.

Fun day out with jard. Cooked by the sun. Rapped off the third pitch.

Great climbing all the way to top! Pitches very sustained on generally good rock

Nice route, pitch 3 has quite interesting moves. We wanted to do the 17 variant of p4 on the right hand side but must have gone for the wrong anchor after the roof on p3. From the anchor we were on, the bolts on the 17 were waaay far to the right and below us, so we decided to do the 24 left hand variant instead. The hard reachy 24-move is beyond my skills so had to pull on a draw to get to the jug. When rapping off from Airtime, it's a good idea to saddlebag the ropes.

Cool route, interesting climbing. Had heaps of fun on this adventure. Be careful of loose blocks and chossy ledges. There are a lot of bees on pitch 4 as well. We climbed to the right a bit and up into the bush to avoid them. Also description should say to rap straight down to the left from last anchor. Matt ended up in the obvious ‘vegetated gully’ on the right and had a near death experience with falling boulder 😅

First pitch as a sport route.

Pitch one and two were lots of fun! Cool upper slider-like first pitch with lots of slopers. Straightforward second pitch with some particularly loose feeling death boulders, however third pitch is super chossy, had to carefully make my way through the overhung section to not shower my belayer in choss! Bailed after reaching the fourth pitch. Will definitely come back to finish the final few pitches.

Made an early start hoping to beat the heat and although we lucked out with cloud coverage and a good breeze, our early arrival meant a very damp first pitch from showers during the evening.

The black lichen of pitch 1 was like climbing wet glass and required some French free climbing for the first three bolts. Beyond the tree line was nice and dry, particularly after the sun hit. I'll certainly be back to retry the first pitch in the dry, as it seemed like it would otherwise be enjoyable.

The route was climbed using a pair of 60m doubles, clipped as twins. We descended via Airtime Over Pumicestone without issue.

Pitch notes:

1. Avoid if damp

2. Loose blocks are perched just to the right of the line as you reach the white headwall.

3. The rock straight off the belay, particularly to the right, is very friable. Be cautious of what you commit your weight to. The anchor at the top of this pitch is obscured from view as you exit the cave. You will need to trend back right after pulling over it. The crux of this pitch is not within the cave itself, nor exiting it, but getting above the lip of the roof. At 183cm I found it to be no harder than Ross Miller Route's crux pitch at 19, but my 153cm second suggested otherwise.

4. The chimney is fun! Beware the bee hive beyond the chimney. You can skirt around it quite readily.

5. Very straightforward and much easier than 16 in my opinion.

6. Wedged / resting blocks sit just above the belay, watch what you pull on!

We only climbed p1-4; p5 & 6 sound like a hassle and not worth it. p2-4 were real fun! All routes are nicely bolted (no risky run outs), 2-3 cruxy exposed moves on p3, but all well protected.

We used an 80 m rope; abseiling without issues; (make sure to rap down p4 closer to the 24 than the 17, otherwise you might get stuck), we used the anchor of Leaving on a Jet Plan (straight down p2 instead of traversing over to first anchor of Banished). Sun til about 12.30. Great day!

Fun overhang with lots of holds

Completed the climb, fist three pitches were definitely the best. Top two pitches were quite slabby and a bit mossy, complete with a couple of tenuous looking blocks which need to be used if you want climb at the grade.

Bailed on the last pitch because the Tibro Pterodactyls were nesting about 20m off to the left and started to look a bit stressed

Bailed after the third pitch because it starting raining. Will return to complete.

A great route. The sport parts are challenging and thought provoking for the grade, the trad parts are easy.

Climbing was pretty good, position and scenery were great. The falcon was chilling about 10m from us watching while James climbed the last pitch! Second pitch had the best climbing.

First pitch as a sport route.

Super fun day out, didn't get to finish the climb as it was going to get dark and the 5th pitch wasn't that inspiring anyway. Nice to be out with the ladies with two parties on the multi, it definitely took a bit longer than it should have with some route finding fun and belay sharing but we all had fun and got to do some fun adventurous climbing. I don't think I used much gear on the 3rd pitch and the crux of it was bolted.

Sweet climb. Nice layback moves and bomber pro. Linked second and third pitches, but had to bush bash off the top onto caves route.