Routes in Mt Tibrogargan

Same as for Procrastislider but continue right into Squealer and do it's crux and finish up this.

First Contact begins 5m L of Banished For Infidelity. 7 FHs, lower-off.

Still needs cleaned stay off for now.

Adds a little more pumpy madness to the classic Madder.

3m L of NMS, starting up on little platform. Stickclip. Tricky little start, then smooth sailing through mini roof and up blocky wall. 8 FHs, lower-off.

This is the easy alternative to the original Caves Route's Chimney, which, minus the original log, is pretty stiff. Most rock climbers & seasoned bush walkers will choose to climb this unroped, whilst this description is aimed at those roped ascents.

1. 17m 4 Start at the "CR" painted on the rock: climb trending right past the vegetation, then directly up to the DBB belay. A short pitch which provides the opportunity to track anyone you are belaying, or abseil back down & belay them on TR.

   ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route Pitch 1

2. 37m 4 Continue up the ledges, mounting trees, up to the big shoulder & DBB.

3. 36m 4 Head up right from the belay, then left up the concave scoop, to a small ledge with a tree on it, from here, head up the steep, exposed section right to a natural belay ledge & a single clip biner on chains.

4. 48m Unroped scramble up through Cave 1, then left (facing the cliff), to the lh side & belay tree.

5. 49m 4 Scramble carefully over the rock & along the narrow precipitous ledge to the end, then right up the rock slab to the anchors (2 sets of anchors, the higher set being the better for roped parties.)

6. 60m 1 Unroped scramble up the rock terrace, and follow the well beaten path through the scrub to the base of the slab.

7. 55m 4 Climb the slab, directly in front of where the path meets it, to a concave scoop in the rock, from here, head out left delicately on the 45° slab & angle up right to a natural belay ledge

   ★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route alternative

   & DBB.

8. 37m 2 Scamble across the sloping ledge, then up the small cliff face at the end to the shoulder & rejoin the original Caves Route.

9. 155m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, through bush & up rock ledges to meet the West Track.

Easy climbing up blocky moves to anchors.

First climb Ideas Man (crux) but continue past IM anchors for another 5m to a DBB.

P2) 14 - 40m continue up following line of least resistance passing one FH to DBB.

P3) 16 - 30m continue up faint features with gear and two FH to DBB.

P4) 10m either straight up to DBB or escape right to Zeitgeist anchors.

4m L of Insurrection VS. Thuggy off the ground. Straight up and through the overlaps. Slightly L, slightly R. 8 FHs, lower-off. Harder than LOAJP.

Start at LH side of Cave 2, up the arete on blocky holds, no protection, then easier climbing up the slab to anchors above slab. Belay option available from one of the trees in Cave 2 lhs.

Start: At the top of 'Heliosphere'.

A long, exciting pitch.

Same start as for Raptures first pitch then following the prominent crack rightwards to Trojans belay. Great pro and jams.

As for Hybrid Vigour, but continue traversing through to Doctor Pinocchio and finish up that.

4m downhill of Insurrection. Stickclip. Up past three FHs to join original. Perhaps a bit harder?

Easy climbing up blocky ledges. Shares anchors with DITR.

This modern traverse into Cave 4 is now bolted (2), making the massive exposure a tad saner. Anchors at the lip of Cave 4.

From Cave 3, scramble down the rock apron, then left to the dirt ledge with small trees on, from here, step up to high first bolt:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - 2 clips on the traverse

then down, out on ledges, to 2nd clip, continue around the arete, on smaller ledges & massive exposure, till the anchor (and sanity) is reached at the lip of Cave 4:

★★ Modern Traverse to Cave 4 5 - Anchors in Cave 4

Closed Project. Climbs the steepest and most insanely exposed overhang of the Summit Caves. To access, climb Morning of the Earth and continue climbing past the anchors up the ramp, Clip the ancient FH and continue to the very back of the ramp to find a DBB. From here the mega steep begins.

Start: At the far right of the fixed rope. Joins the route to the left after four bolts after the steep part of the wall. Good climbing, and a bit tricky to read.

Start as for the 40 meter mile but head across Dr Pinocchio and finish up Overseer.

4m L of FC. The obvious arcing line up the marbled white rock in the middle of the wall.

Just down and left of the upper routes. Awesome rock!!

First climbed in 1926, this whole section of cliff, including the Modern Traverse and the terrace below, was climbed in the pre-rope era of climbing in Qld. START: RH base of Cave 3, scramble down to a wide dirt ledge, follow this around right & up into Cave 4.

Controversially retrobolted by the Modern Traverse.

Start by climbing to the top of Slider Wall gully. This is an extremely vegetated route, not recommended to pure rock artists of to the inexperienced route finder. From the ledge at the top of Upper Slider, traverse rightward along the base of the rock face for approximately 20m. Due to the inevitable presence of loose rock, climbers must make absolutely sure that Upper Slider is quiet (e.g. deserted) in order to avoid bombarding climbers below.

1. 18m - Up a broken rubbly gully, past an old peg to tree belay.

2. 26m - Continue up with a slight rightward trend, past more pegs following the line of least resistance to a tree belay. Up into bush and rubble. At this point, you have two alternatives - 2a) Continue on up diagonally right, through undergrowth and mank to the south east corner and bushbash to the summit, or 2b) Trend left on Grade 1 rock until a yellow overhanging rock is in view. This rock is above the yellow corner.

3. 32m - From a tree belay, traverse left across an exposed, vegetated ledge and up a short rock pitch. Belay above yellow overhang.

4. 24m - Straight up, then rock and vegetation to wall. Tree belay. From here, scramble left along base of wall for 35m across a small stretch of slab.

5. 40m - From a tree belay, climb up a wide gully (thick vegetation). Then up a vertical, vegetated gully to a tree belay on left side. Continue up gully into white corner.

6. 47m - Up slabs adjacent to corner for about 10m, then traverse right for another 10m, then up to top.

Unknown sport route on the right side of Cave 4.

Few meters R of memorial in cave 2. Start low on crimp, find your way up and left to crimp, hard right to jugs, dyno(or static?) to top-out.

One of Tibro's best 26's. Diabolical looking moves off the starting ledge. Anchors on a small ledge in a corner.

Just left of Cave 5. Quite high first bolt. Past 4 spaced FHs to chains.

Variant start to Cruel to be Kind. (First bolt missing) start up blocky overhanging start to second bolt then links into cruel to be kind shares anchors with DITR.

Sustained wall with lovely orange rock. Starts on left side of little cave/alcove directly below the rap anchors for Karma Ran Over My Dogma. Up orange rock then traverse left onto arête and onto small stance. Finish straight up the wall with a little spicy runout to finish. This was Neil's first ever hand-drilled bolt, and the first of the 'new routes' established in the Summit Overhangs. It only had one bolt when originally climbed.

Start at the base of the central north face. A bush-bashing affair with some rock here and there.

1. 35m - Almost straight up, zigzagging slightly to find the line of least resistance to a gully. Tree belay.

2. 12m - Out of the gully to the right and up to the trees. From this stance, scramble unroped on sloping rock (Grade 1) dotted with trees to dense undergrowth. Bushbash straight up to a buttress and follow around to the right and up to a rock wall.

3. 20m - Up a rock gully on the left to a tree belay. Emerge from the undergrowth to find a slab.

4. 20m (crux) - Trend left up the rough slab to a tree belay. Scramble up left over easy rock and through undergrowth to North East shoulder.

Start: Prometheus I.

There are a plethora of variants to Prometheus I, this one is an easy stroll up the mountain, to Cave 4. A tad thin on gear on p2.

1. 53m 4 - Same as Prometheus pitch 1,but continue left, following the natural weakness & gully, to a small dirt ledge & bushes. Trad belay.

2. 30m 4 - Continue left, following the line of weakness, then trend up & right, around the Steelwood trees, to a tree belay.

3. 40m 4 - From the belay, head for the right side of Cave 4, into the fern gully, then up the left side of this into Cave 4. Belay from Cave 4.

Open Project. Puniverse into the Creationism project. Slightly more doable than Creationism. Have at it!

Up past a few FH's into corner until you can pull L onto wall. Up this great wall past more FH's to a rest stance. Easier ground past a few more FH's, then shares anchor with DV8.

Climbs the white streaked slab 3m L of prominent corner, just L of Prometheus I. Crap pro, good rock.

Start beneath the corner - it's the final bolted line.

The bouldery crux move from big sloping edges will try hard to spit you off - be warned! 30m to ledge on rap.

1. 30m (19) Start as per PC, up crack on good gear to overhang, then straight up through the shallow chimney on scant holds & gear, to gain ledge above, then trend Right along this to crack corner & belay.

2. 32m (13) Up the obvious crack corner, beautiful laybacking, bridging and wall climbing & solid gear. Gain a small stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree/bush.

3. 32m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge & TB. From here, head up Right, across a vegetated scree slope, to join the Caves Route below Trojan.

Tourist Track. Slippery and well worn. From the carpark, follow the NP signage:

★★ West Track (Tourist Track) 3 - 20230413_115159-sr.jpg

up the increasingly steep track, to the intimidating start (colloquially called "Chicken Rock", because many day-trippers choose to turn back at this point). In the V groove, top left corner, the steep start is about a grade 5 or 6 and access here is slightly overhanging:

★★ West Track (Tourist Track) 3 - Chicken Rock

but an easier start can be found down right, about 15m right of a large tree:

David Duffy on ★★ West Track (Tourist Track) 3 - Chicken Rock

up the sloping face, on good holds, about grade 3. Once this hurdle has been overcome, the remainder of the climbing then becomes an easy scramble at about grade 0-2, to the summit.

Link Up - Climb Voluptuous then at the last bolt head Left into the savage headwall of Dagda.

Open Project. Extension to NMR. Long standing project through the steepest continual roof in the Summit Caves. Will most likely be Summit Caves hardest line when completed.

ACCESS:

The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of Traxion Action. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb.

RACK:

• 1 set of cams to #3
• 1 set of medium nuts, offsets preferred.
• 8 draws

ABOUT:

This route is a linkup with the first 2 and a half pitches of Traxion Action, and then joining back in at pitch 7. There is a direct top out with a scramble around to the tourist track but the best finish is up Traxion Action. This climb is mixed and runout at times. A great step up from Traxion Action for those looking for a challenge or to improve their skills in adventure climbing.

1. (Traxion Action) 27m 17 Straight up past 7 hangers and 2 distinct cruxes, then move left through two more hangers to anchor.

2. (Traxion Action) 20m 10 Traverse up and left past 1 hanger & 1 rap anchor before climbing through scrub to base of wall.

3. Hard move off the deck, then follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of Traxion Action.

4. (Oppression obsession starts here) - 40m 16 Head straight up from the tree, just right of the small bush to a hanger. Pass some gear placements, an ancient piton and a few hangers to optional anchor. Option to belay here (30m) but best to follow the ramp up to the left for another 10m to the next anchors.

5. 35m 16 From here climb the headwall following hangers and over bushy ledge to find the next anchor.

6. Up and veering right. Trad placements to be found around the slab below the 3 pillars. A direct finish goes straight up the right hand pillar or follow the better option to join back in to pitch 7 of Traxion Action. To do this traverse right 6 meters below the pillar and past a bomber placement to the slab of Traxion Action pitch 7. Slab moves up slab to final belay anchor.

7. (Traxion Action) 30m 15 Straight off the belay, look for secret holds. Climb with style past 2 hangers to the top of the buttress and carefully choose your belay.

FAs Matt Hunter, Hamish Ousby, Jay

Climb the prominent corner you pass on you way to the start of Prometheus I. Good gear and ok climbing but you end up climbing through an unpleasant bush to top out, hence the name. Continue up or scramble down Prometheus I. Named but FA not listed because it has probably been climbed heaps of times since the 1960s!

R of Zenith. Closed project for now.

ACCESS: The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of TA. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb. Go past the small tree and under the potential crack climb containing a precarious fridge sized block.

The climb starts towards the far left and heads up to the arete. There are several places where you will need to avoid potential loose rock, finding a mix of reasonable and good placements. This pitch will clean up well eventually but be careful as there is potential for pulling rocks onto your belayer. Work your way over the top to a double bolt anchor. Rap from here or continue up Oppression Obsession. A 70m rope will just reach the ground or you can rap down the ramp to the right to the first achors of oppression obsession.

Two close together first bolts, then fun, tricky moves off sidepulls to top.

Start: R of Brannigan's Law.

Short and powerful route that could be used as a harder direct start to Punks Not Dead. It climbs the right side of the small cave with amazing rock features. 4 closely spaced FH's with very bouldery moves. At the ledge hand traverse left along sloping lip then mantle up to horn jug.

Start: 7m R at the end of the vegetated section of ledge.

Superb sequences. The L-trending line of five FH’s featuring sustained sideways slopers. Feels much longer than it is. Now has its own dedicated anchor.

The obvious right trending line, to the right of Out Of The Blue. Follow shallow crack system and boulder to the ledge aka The Morgue.

Same as for Procrastisquealer but traverse R and finish up Madder.

Bugger all gear. Dangerous.

First climbed in 1926, this whole section of cliff, including the Modern Traverse and the terrace below, was climbed in the pre-rope era of climbing in Qld. START: RH base of Cave 3, scramble down to a wide dirt ledge, follow this around right & up into Cave 4.

Controversially retrobolted by the Modern Traverse.

Queensland's own mountaineering-style classic that has introduced the climbing experience to many a gibbering bumbly. This has always been the traditional easy route up to The Scrub (below the summit overhangs). Rap stations are present on five of the 8 pitches (Aug. 2019). Most of the rock on the route is quite worn making route-finding easy. Many parties rope up for these 5 pitches, interspersed with unroped scrambling.

Start: 20m R (down the slope) of where the E face walking track meets the rock. Marked "CR".

★★ Caves Route Variant 4 - Caves Route Pitch 1

1. 17m 4 A short pitch that allows the belayer to see roped parties (or top rope from the ground). Traverse out right across big ledges, skirting the vegetation above, then straight up to the DBB.

2. 38m 4 Continue straight up, across big ledges & skirting trees, to the big shoulder & DBB belay.

3. 36m 4 Traverse up R up rock steps, then trend left to ledge with small tree, from here, up the narrowing rock face with surprising exposure to belay ledge (single clip biner) and mouth of Cave 1.

4. 50m 1 Unroped scramble up into Cave 1 & the big Cave 2. Walk to far L side of this.

5. 47m 4 Traverse carefully out L side of cave along the narrow, precipitous ledge, until possible to move up to the terraced slab above. Up steep wall above with no protection to either of 2 rap stations. (The higher being the better option for roped parties.) (A belay is available from one of the trees on the LHS of Cave 2.)

6. 100m 1 Unroped scramble from the belay ledge, up the rock steps up to the scrub, & follow this (worn) track through the scrub till you hit a large rock slab. Head down right to the rock slab & mount this up to the prominent chimney/corner.

7. 35m 4 NOTE: THIS 5m SECTION OF CLIMBING IS ABOUT GRADE 15! Up the sheer vertical face on small but good holds, till possible to mantle into the chimney. Easier now (grade 4) up the chimney & rock face above, crossing ledges to a DBB. (This is the true line, but a log that helped the original party climb into the chimney is no longer there. To avoid this hard section, take the Caves Route Variant - the grade 3 slab, out to the left.)

8. 195m 1 Walk/scramble up the shoulder, up rock ledges & bush, till you hit the West Track (Hiker's track).

*Note: There is also another Caves Route variant that avoids the chimney section which starts right at the base of the chimney by taking a short contour to the right hand side until a large cave is found. Go to the end of the cave and scramble up for about 25 m until the top of the NE face is reached. This second variant is slightly easier than the one described above.

A good way up to cave 4 and beyond, not as clean and classy as The Caves Route but a nice change of scenery.

Start about 50m right of Black Orpheus, in a gully that is accessed by scrambling up just before the track drops down and starts heading around the northern side of the mountain. This route has many variations - this description is only one of them.

1. Scramble up the gully, left of Candy Mountain, then up right, into the prominent corner and follow the apron right towards Ross Miller Route until a ramp is met on the left. Scramble up this ramp to a corner belay below the first bolts of the Ross Miller Route.

2. Climb the left leaning gully, to a prominent steelwood tree. Belay from here.

3. Traverse right and diagonally up, following a line of small trees (slings) to a ledge, below a steep short gully. Belay from solid tree or gear.

4. Move left and up (grade 2) or climb the gully directly to avoid rope drag, heading in the direction of cave 4, either stop at the ledge at the bottom of the ramp in front of cave 4 or continue up to the prominent tree on the ramp. Find a suitable tree to break the pitch.

5. Continue up and towards the right side of cave 4 (facing cave) into the gully/chimney, with a cruxy move to top out into cave 4. This pitch can be done without rope. The most popular escape is the Cave 3 traverse (grade 2, now bolted, with anchor), on the left far side of the cave, to join Caves Route, or keep scrambling to the right and in the upper cave 4 to the start of Prometheus II (marked). Due to the weakness of the trees on this route, abseiling is not recommended.

A time-honoured bumbly classic. So named because of its abrasive properties, this route follows the large, prominent chimney on the E face. When you're wedged in the chimney, spare a thought for when this was climbed with nothing more than a rope and a couple of slings!

Start: Beneath the L-leaning pocketed crack 5m or so L of where the E face walking track meets the rock (35m L of the Caves Route). Marked 'CC'.

1. 35m (-) Originally the crux pitch. Up face, then follow the crack with bridging moves to a rest position. Up face above passing a PR to large ledge. Bridge up the gully to the second ledge. Belay from collection of small-ish trees.

2. 25m (-) Up easy wall (good pro) to tree. Up and L to enter the chimney. Climb up wide groove to big sling belay in the 'Bomb Shelter'.

3. 17m (11) (crux). Harder since repeat ascentionists have trundled some chockstones used by original party. Bridge up into the chimney to stance and pro. Chimney up past chockstones and hidden PRs (on back wall) to ledge. Belay off large chockstone at back of ledge.

4. 15m (-) Continue up chimney until it finishes at a ledge and TB. Take care, the ledge is covered in loose rock which will rocket down the chimney if released. From the belay ledge scramble down and right some 30m along Spooky Ledge to locate the chains at the top of p3 of Remains of the Day. From there, 2 x30m and 1 x 20m gets you to the deck. Alternatively you can bush bash up and right from Spooky ledge to meet Caves Route at the Big Scrub above Cave 2

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 21m 9 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge to the start of rubbishy gully. Up through the gully or out onto the left hand bounding rib (much cleaner) to large tree belay (?). From here, the exit of Carborundum Chimney is joined, and scrambling to the right eventually leads to the Caves Route.

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 32m 13 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge. Ascend diagonally up & to the right for 4m on the leftside of crevice/crack, cross over the crack, then ascend on small holds & ledges immediately to the right of the crack (to right of overhang). Straight up trending right. Up front of nose until level with large Ironwood tree (?) in gully to the left of nose.

From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan.

Start about 20m right of Black Orpheus. Fairly contrived.

1. 25m Up an open rock gully to a tree belay.

   Bruce Schneider on ★ Orpheus 10 - Orpheus pitch 1

2. 29m (crux) Trend right over a horrendous flake, then diagonally up right, to tree belay.

3. 27m Up slab trending right for gear, or straight up (very run-out), to a line of small steelwood trees. Left along dirt ledge to the face right of Black Orpheus chimney & tree belay. This ledge is the same as the end of BO pitch 3.

4. 28m Up onto the wall right of the chimney. Traverse rightward around to rubbly gully. Up this gully (LHS is the better option), to a tree belay.

5. 40m Finish as for the fourth pitch of Prometheus 1 up in Cave 4.

Start at the base of an impressive blank wall right of Line of Credit. This route climbs mostly solid rock but is runout in places. Various alternate finishes have been done.

1. 22m This pitch has very little protection. Straight up on nice rock for 8m, then traverse diagonally right with care on sloping holds to ledge and belay.

2. 17m Traverse left for 5m then up scary, thin wall with little pro with a slight right trend and up to small ledge. Bolt belay as described in previous topos seems not to exist any more, best to traverse up and left to DBB on Line of Credit.

3. 50m (crux) Straight up, then traverse right under yellow overhang, passing some rusted pitons en route. Continue up shallow corner where decent wires protect some tricky moves on poor rock. Skirt overhang on right to ledge and bush belay.

4. 25m Continue up into Cave 1.

Access: From the old climber's carpark, take the right fork of the Tibrogargan track, heading north. Follow the track until you reach some chairs and a picnic table, after which you'll ascend some steps to find a small trail leaving the main track on the left. Follow this to the base of Candy Mountain. Around 15m past the right hand side of Candy Mountain is a vegetated weakness marked NEB.

Standard rack up to #3 Camalot, focus on small wires and cams.

Warning: 7th Pitch (crux) is dangerous and does not come recommended. It features a manky old bolt ladder which has not fared well after 50 years in a coastal climate. Check "Escape from NEB" or "Sideshow Bob" for bail options.

1. 20m (-) Easily up gully to tree belay

2. 28m (-) Up for 5m then right around the buttress below some loose blocks. Keep traversing around to the right, ascending slightly to gain a spacious ledge and natural gear belay.

3. 37m (-) Ascend right from ledge to short wall. Traverse this to the right and above peg in block. Now ascend tending right slightly up to tree belay.

4. 27m (-) Cross to the left on sloping ramp up to tree belay below buttress. Stance on spacious ledge.

5. 33m (-) Straight up on good rock to peg belay below steep wall.

6. 18m (-) Traverse right around buttress and up into a wooded gully, below a steep, yellow groove. Tree belay. You can escape from the route here by traversing left to meet Cave 4.

7. 37m (11 crux) Up wall on left, traverse over big loose block and then up to yellow patch below steep wall. Up bolt ladder with hard moves and death blocks galore, then traverse right below big block to belay. Buyer beware.

8. 33m (-) Pass under block traversing left, then straight up tending slightly right to small bush and ledge. Bolt belay.

9. 33m (-) Straight up past mangled bolt (useless) to second bolt. Delicate move past this straight up past two more mangled bolts. Gain easier ground. Tree belay.

10. 33m (-) Scramble out to left on sloping ledge which leads to NE shoulder.

Descent: Tourist Track or Caves Route (4x raps)

A traverse that deserves a description. First used by FA party of North-east buttress to escape the route before the aided crux section.

1. 30m (14) crux. From the "Crazy Crack" gully climb just above the DBB up the left wall (tree belay or DBB), avoiding the nasty loose block on the arete. Up and around the buttress with marginal protection and suspicious holds in a very airy and unstable scenario. Downclimb into a small vegetated gully with shrub (must not fall) and keep traversing left, on better rock, passing a bolt of the Ross Miller Route and reaching a second small gully. Break the traverse and belay from a small tree to avoid further rope drag.

2. 35m (13) Continue traversing left past 2 bomber placements (medium to small cam) and reach the broken pillar on top of cave 4 enjoying the massive exposure and unbelievable views. Place gear to direct rope and avoid running it through the death blocks. Carefully downclimb the lower part of pitch 1 of Prometheus 2 to the sign into the cave (tricky).

Start about 100m right from NE Buttress below obvious large chimney (10m left of the pillar with FH's). This route is loose and has tricky route finding.

1. 33m Up wall below chimney. Tricky move left around overhanging flake. Move up trending diagonally left until vertical ascent can be made to the base of the chimney. Ascend chimney (narrow and strenuous) climbing out onto main rock wall when chockstone is reached. Climb onto this chockstone and continue on to top of buttress to large tree belay.

2. 37m Vertical ascent for 8m then horizontal traverse right to seams. Straight up to a small niche/alcove then belay off natural gear.

3. 40m Delicate move out of belay up left. Ascend until short right traverse can be made to scunge-filled crack. Ascend vertically about 7m and then traverse left, up and out of crack. Tree runner. Continue ascent through scunge until a diagonal right traverse brings you to a large tree belay below a blank wall.

4. 37m (11 crux) Climb steep ramp in front of belay tree to tree runner and ascend onto vertical wall. Climb directly over loose holds, leading to a delicate traverse on small holds. Handholds around corner of bulge lead to wide shelf and tree belay.

5. 40m Straight up over extremely sloping horizontal strata to ramp. Follow ramp right until you get to a tree belay.

6. 37m Straight up over good holds to NE Shoulder.

Start about 70m down right from the Caves Route at low angled wall. Up 15m of slab below a small buttress. Then up centre of buttress to finish at steelwood trees in a grassy area. The Caves Route is 10m left at this point.

A historical classic adventure climb of great character up the S.E. corner of Tibro to the R of the orange overhanging wall. Named in memory of John Clements who was Les Wood's climbing partner in England. The hardest climb in the state for its day. Although the line is straight, individual pitches zigzag a bit. The major landmarks are the big groove (pitch 3) and the scrubby terrace at half height. Technical hard moves are isolated, but route finding is difficult, protection poor and some holds suspect, so the leader should be very solid in the grade to avoid an epic. There is no obvious LLR and one can easily wander off route into a thrill zone.

Start: 10m R of 'Rubicon' on dark brown rock, downhill from the track's apex. Marked 'C'.

1. 35m (15) 10m runout off the deck up blocky slab. A further 10m with a tricky step-left (PR and small SLCD) to R-trending ramp beneath the blocky roofs. Belay on the ramp off gear.

2. 30m (16) Ascending, traverse 10m R to hollow white flake below bulge (the original aid move complete with PR). Back up the peg before carefully cringing up R to easier ground. Up a ways until you can traverse L to ledge below the huge corner (rings on ledge - 43m rap to ground, 80m rope reaches on stretch).

3. 32m (14) An excellent pitch. Up initial corner and through small rooflet to continue up into the huge corner. Exit out R and up to rap anchor on tree on 'Clemency' Terrace (aka Halfway House). Walk 20m L along the terrace and up a little hill to the base of a R-trending ramp.

4. 35m (12) A tricky start that would demolish grade-12 leaders is the key to continuing up remnants of the big groove. Struggle past loose blocks and prickly grass defending good hex placements along the slanting crack R to a stance.

5. 30m (9) Up and trend L to below final corner capped by large blocks suspended in anti-gravity mode.

6. 30m (11) This overhanging time bomb is defused by an exciting move L followed by a mellow romp up the rib and ejection into the summit scrub field.

A thousand cuts must now be endured passing through vile scrub to attain sanctuary and clemency (?) on the tourist track.

Start 6m R of Guenevere. Marked 'L'. Originally graded 7! Not many routes get their grade more than doubled between one guidebook and the next.

1. 20m (14) - Up for 10m to first vegetated ledge. If you want to belay here, walk to far left of this ledge to find a good DBB, otherwise link this pitch with the next (better).

2. 30m (16) - Walk all the way back to the right end of the belay ledge. Up with some difficulty to a bowl. Keep climbing up and right aiming for the diagonal vegetated ledge above. Clip peg before last headwall and climb up this to base of ledge. Good DBB.

3. 25m (18) - Climb up onto block on far right of ledge and climb straight up slab to a nice, very slabby right-facing corner. Clip peg and traverse right under blocks to another peg. Climb straight up the wall above (crux) with scant protection to slab. Up and right to easy slab which ends in an easy corner and peg belay.

4. 15m (15) - Straight up corner with good pro to belay at base of pitch 7 of Dreadnought (left-facing corner crack). To reach the Halfway House area and the rap tree on Clemency Terrace, traverse 30-40m left on slabby ground. Alternatively, the top of Tibro can be attained by continuing up Dreadnought.

This climb takes the obvious right-leading slick corner. Atmospheric climbing. Protection on the route is technical to place, and is sparse at the start so be careful not to slip off. Bring some big gear for the upper crack. Natural Belay at top. Two 50m ropes will get you back to the ground. You descend straight down over The Digital Revolution.

This is a great, well-protected route

Start: about 4m right of a big tree at the apex of the path. Faintly marked 'Pc'.

1. 36m (15) Up nice crack to top of white rock (see topo) with good gear, to overhang, then traverse left to small ledge & up onto a more positive ledge, follow this along Right, for about 18m to base of obvious crack corner (see topo for pitch 2).

2. 32m (15) Up the obvious crack corner, beautiful laybacking, bridging and wall climbing & solid gear. Gain a small stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree/bush.

3. 32m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge & TB. From here, head up Right, across a vegetated scree slope, to join the Caves Route below Trojan.

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

1. Head up and left from alcove with T marker. Climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

2. Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the small cave shared with Achilles.

3. Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

4. Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

5. Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

Start: diagonally up and to the left of the start of the Caves Route at a small flat ledge at the bottom of a series of sloping ribs, about 18m down from the apex. Marked "F". This is an exposed and poorly protected route.

This is the original 1955 description. 70yrs on, trees may have disappeared and new ones grown. Additionally; there's been significant rock fall in this area, so route finding may well be challenging.

1. 29m 13 Diagonally upwards to the right across the sloping ribs and then up onto a small ledge on the crest of an obvious nose. Slightly back to the left on downward sloping ledges to the base of a small, loose wall. Up this wall to a small Ironwood tree runner (? if still there?). Continue up the wall and then out to the right onto lightly vegetated shelf running up to the left. Ironwood tree belay (if still there?) at the left hand edge of shelf.

2. 17m 12 Directly up behind tree and into the obvious groove above. Up the groove/crack in the corner and out onto the left hand wall. Straight up over perched block to a small stance behind it. (Originally a piton belay.)

3. 12m 11 From stance, climb straight up small wall to left of crack and then ascend diagonally left over small rib. A traverse leads to the left over a series of sloping ledges for 9m to two wide, flat ledges in the middle of the face & belay. (originally a piton belay.)

4. 17m 14 Straight up the wall above for 4m, and then a delicate traverse to the left leads to the wide crevice in the corner (Patience Crack p2 belay). Step across the gap and then up to prominent shelf on the far wall & Ironwood tree belay (? if still there?)

5. 32m 13 Climb the 3m wall behind the ledge. Ascend diagonally up & to the right for 4m on the leftside of crevice/crack, cross over the crack, then ascend on small holds & ledges immediately to the right of the crack (to right of overhang). Straight up trending right. Up front of nose until level with large Ironwood tree (?) in gully to the left of nose.

From here, exit up & right, across vegetated ledges above Carborundum Chimney to access the Caves Route below Trojan.

This is a great, well-protected route

Start: about 4m right of a big tree at the apex of the path. Faintly marked 'Pc'.

1. 36m (15) Up nice crack to top of white rock (see topo) with good gear, to overhang, then traverse left to small ledge & up onto a more positive ledge, follow this along Right, for about 18m to base of obvious crack corner (see topo for pitch 2).

2. 32m (15) Up the obvious crack corner, beautiful laybacking, bridging and wall climbing & solid gear. Gain a small stance where Faith crosses wall and belay off tree/bush.

3. 32m (12) Traverse R and up continuation of corner, to finish on ledge & TB. From here, head up Right, across a vegetated scree slope, to join the Caves Route below Trojan.

Start: About 20m below the extreme top of the gully above Carborundum Chimney. Directly below egg shaped cave and just left of 16mm drill holes. The climb goes up the steep black wall L of the Tibro's East summit overhang with good technical moves and plenty of exposure with great stances in the small caves.

1. 33m (15 crux) A hard start up the steep wall, then R into a small gully. Bear R again over easy ground to the foot of a wall and piton. Up and to the R over thin holds, very delicately, towards the top R corner of the wall. Easier towards an overhang. Over the overhang and into a small cave with a piton.

2. 20m Out of the cave on the R, then step around the corner with mega exposure. Straight up, then tend R towards another small cave (the one on the L) with 3 pitons. Good holds but exposed.

3. 17m Interesting and thought-provoking moves up the cave with good gear, moving up and escaping out L. After the cave comes easier ground and a ledge. Take a deep breath and traverse R into the unknown around the arete and continue up to yet another small cave.

4. 17m Climbs through the difficult groove in the roof of the cave. Awesome wide bridging here with easier climbing above into cave stance once more. Messy unknown bolted belay located to the left of the cave. Good gear around it.

5. 33m Out of the cave on the L, up a rib which is a bit loose, L below a loose block to easier climbing, traversing L. Keep traversing L. The stance is found below a black wall, or tree belay further along. Traverse off L along an easy ledge and up through bush and mank to summit.

Start about 10m right of Keloid at the foot of a scoop of easy angled slabs. This route is considerably undergraded and underprotected. Additionally, all former belays are now effectively absent. Proceed with caution, or better yet, not at all.

1. 36m Up the slabs and diagonally left across the top side of a gully. Continue on leftward trend until steepness eases to worn slabs. Continue on up to the left for another 4m into a gully and dodgy (e.g. non-existent) tree belay.

2. 18m Climb back down and traverse directly right along small ledges to piton below groove. Continue right and slightly down for 3m to twin pegs. Rusty and not recommended as a belay.

3. 29m (crux) Left a bit, then straight up to base of groove. Up this with adequate pro to sloping rock and tree belay. From here, scramble up and left to connect with Caves Route.

Start between Wasp and Desperation Wall. This route is under-protected, beware!

1. 26m (crux) Up easy slab, onto wall and straight up, then trend slightly right over bulge, to peg, then straight up a right trending groove on the left side of the bulge, then slightly left of white streaks, hard move onto belay ledge.

2. 38m Climb directly up from ledge to find a peg at 12m, continue straight up to overhanging wall, then a short traverse left to the base of the groove and finish as per Wasp.

A very rare occasion where the original ascentist advises climbers to TR it first, rather than try to onsight it.

Start just right of the initials "SD". Up terraced ledges, scant pro - first viable pro is 15m up broken, treacherous rock. top out on the shoulder above. (This is an old school route, so expect it to be more 14/15ish. It has a reputation for being run-out with no pro.)

A great, easy 135m multipitch route although pro can be pretty sparse on p2&3 and non-existant on p5. A good initiation to what to expect from Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 60m rope.

Start: About 50m L of Candy Mountain at big corner/gully, behind a rock apron. Marked 'BO' (very faint).

★★ Black Orpheus 10 - "BO"

1. 30m (7) Very easily up gully on solid jugs and good pro to big ledge and trad belay.

2. 25m (10) Up rocky corner/slab (right of ledge) Then left to mount short wall (crux), onto slab & up this gully (R) with a couple of bushes offering protection to big ledge & bush belay.

   max on ★★ Black Orpheus 10 - Crux of pitch 2

3. 25m (4) Climb up edgy slab in an exposed position with minimal protection until it curves back left & you reach a tree-lined ledge above. Scramble up L to the top of the ledge. Originally, the belay made use of the "Zombie Tree", however it is preferable that modern ascents make use of gear in groove about 5m above to establish a belay and protect this historic but weary flora from further abuse. You can choose to run pitch 2&3 together, beware that you may be out of earshot of your belayer. This pitch requires a cool head: exposed pitch & minimal pro!

4. 32m (10) Run-out start, then bridge up chimney (crux), which is better than it looks (very good gear), at top LH side of chimney, traverse L along the rising ledge and into corner, follow this up right over blocks to top of gully & crack & tree belay.

5. 23m (3) Up very easy blocky slab (no gear) to big tree in Cave 3. (Some choose to run pitch 4&5 together, on a 60m+ rope, be aware you WILL be out of earshot.) Finish up the 'Caves Route', or descend via rap station at mouth of Cave 1. Alternatively, you can climb (on belay) over to the chains on Zeitgeist & abseil down this to get back to the start of the route.

Take wires, RP's and SLCD's to #3. 255 vertical metres from base to summit.

Start: 15m R at the 50m high vegetated ramp sloping diagonally R. Marked D.

1. 50m (-) Follow ramp until it finishes on a vegetated ledge.

2. 20m (-) Easily L along ledge and up through obvious weakness in wall above (old pegs) to a ledge and technical belay in corner on R.

3. 10m (-) Up corner, then out to R before cutting back L along ledge to FH and SLCD belay (optional).

4. 40m (-) Up corner on R (tricky), and then diagonally R across slab to bush belay.

5. 35m (-) Up slightly L to the end of the scrubby ledge (Clemency Terrace aka Halfway House). Beware loose blocks. Belay.

6. 20m (-) Walk L along ledge to below obvious crack/flake corner.

7. 50m (-) Up corner and at top out R to easier ground. Continue diagonally out R to a large vegetated gully. TB. This is a superb, rope-stretching pitch.

8. 30m (-) Up slab L of gully to ledge and bush belay.

9. 30m (-) Up to ledge and belay in continuation of gully above the Carborundum Terrace.

10. 20m (16) Enter groove from L (delicate) and straight up to belay at horizontal break at stance.

11. 40m (-) Out L and through juggy bulge. Up easy angle wall to TB.

12. 30m (-) Through scrub and rock walls to summit scrub field. Another 80m above is the summit

From the top of pitch 5 on Overexposed climb black wall and slab above with no protection to top.

The first known technical route on the south west corner of Tibro. This corner is bisected by a scrubby ramp that traverses diagonally up from right to left, starting under a vertical section of the cliff on the south face proper. Below this ramp, a buttress comprised of relatively clean and smooth slabs can be found, and this route takes a direct line up those slabs to end on the scrubby ramp. To find the start of the route, take the usual access track to Slider gully and bushbash around the base of the mountain. Alternatively, it is fairly easy to follow the Trachyte Circuit around the mountain until a low point on the trail with an abundance of ferns. The buttress can vaguely be seen through the shrubbery, so make a beeline through moderately dense bush to the base of the wall.

1. Up an easy, low-angled slab with abundant lichen but no gear. Tree belay.

2. Up steeper, cleaner terrain with quite decent protection. Belay from a large horizontal crack.

3. Terrain continues to steepen and gear becomes poor and sparse when it matters most. A small overlap is surmounted near the top of the pitch, after which some loose rock must be navigated to reach the ramp above.

Descent: One can scramble down to the right, although it is quite vegetated. A faint path also leads up and left, eventually connecting with the Tourist Track and a short descent to ground level.

This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of Tibros East Face and is a test piece of the mountain. This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split.

1. 30m (22) Climb rightwards across the diagonal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance, then up vertical crack to belay stance, parallel with the ear.

2. 25m (24) This pitch traverses right with little pro. To make things safer, place a high runner (5m) above pitch two's belay. The pitch moves rightward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#.5 with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping ) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Thread the pierced ear with a long sling (5m). Up the corner formed by the ear with small RP's, then into the roof with small cams and wires. Steep technical and wild climbing. DBB over lip.

3. 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl on excellent rock to the summit.

This route climbs the impressive overhang situated at the top of Tibros East Face and is a test piece of the mountain. This route was originally done in five pitches with the first and second split.

1. 30m (22) Climb rightwards across the diagonal crack with good pro to a crux transition move from horizontal to vertical around an angular block to get established at an awkward stance, then up vertical crack to belay stance, parallel with the ear.

2. 25m (24) This pitch traverses right with little pro. To make things safer, place a high runner (5m) above pitch two's belay. The pitch moves rightward from the belay and heads for the hanging ear of rock 15m away. Stay under the ridge of overhung rock and place a runner (#.5 with long sling so the second can practice the crux before unclipping ) in the only obvious placement about halfway along the traverse. Thread the pierced ear with a long sling (5m). Up the corner formed by the ear with small RP's, then into the roof with small cams and wires. Steep technical and wild climbing. DBB over lip.

3. 25m (23) Crack climb up the overhung bowl on excellent rock to the summit.

Start a few meters left of Strange Fruit. One of the most serious routes in Australia, " I thought I was going to die for sure " Kim Carrigan. On the crux Kim describes being 10m run out from a #0 rp which sounds like a rather absorbing experience.

1. 20 m (23) up corner on great rock to natural belay stance, with pretty good gear.

2. 20m (24) Continue straight up through the overhangs making your way into runoutville. One of the most serious pitches in Queensland requiring a very capable and bold approach. DBB. 50m rap or dodgy traverse over right to Trojans anchors.

3. 10m (19) To the top.

1. 40m Straight up to twin peg belay at the end of Wasp's second pitch

2. 29m Same as Pitch 3 of Wasp

Start 7m left of Orpheus. A fine route, avoids rubbish. Pro and rock good except a small patch on Pitch 2.

1. 50m Up grey prow, over flat topped pillar. Trend slightly right to tree.

2. 40m Following left-trending diagonal crack to tree at 25m. Before tree, up on good clean rock, then trend right to shallow block corner left of wide crack.

3. 50m Up corner then directly up to belay in bowl below cave. Tremendous pitch!

4. 10m Scramble up to cave.

Crack 3m right of Brit Pop. Where the crack blanks out whittle in some RPs and climb face on sidepulls to vegetated ledge and tree belay far back.

The first route bolted at Shadow Glen and named after the housing estate that was bulldozed into the base of Ngungun that year. Starts 2m right of Sweet Flower Girl. A technical wake-up call. Jug up to FH. Hard moves lead to 2nd FH. Traverse left and up to big jug. Slam in #2 Friend behind jug and climb up to crack (cam). Traverse right and up to chains.

First two bolts of Suburban Sprawl then head right to finish up Domestos. First lead ascent is unknown - but has been done several times.

Dangerous and dirty. Start 2m right of Suburban Sprawl. Up very thin crack (RPs) to slabby face above. Up this boldly with no pro to toilet-bowl stance then slab up to tree belay.

Old school ground up tradding on good rock. Be solid at the grade before attempting this. Start on wall about 10m right of the pillar at odd looking rock face. Up on good positive edges with marginal protection for 10m. Keep climbing upwards past cracks until ledge with big loose block. Climb up the wall on the right side if this to slab and tree belay on left.