Ascents in Grampians by gaetan

Went up with the intend of putting the gear and try the moves. Got shut down by the crux.

With the gear in, dog my way up to try the move. The lower crux felt fine once I found a good beta. The upper crux feels almost harder, I can see it being an issue on the redpoint.

went up to work the move

Link up to the first crux but powered out. Refined my beta for the upper part and the upper crux

Went up to put the gear on, couldn't remember half of the move ...

Back up to work the move.Got a new beta for the first crux. Got insanely pumped linking the crux to the rest. Worked the move for the upper bit. Need more fitness

Did all the move, harder for short people. A #3 camalot or equivalent works well if you don't have #4.

Couldn't do the first move again, did clean after pulling past first move.

approx date. Found it pretty exiting at the time, cool traverse a the top. A bit of an epic to get down, we got the ropes stuck ....

Managed to do the moves up through the crux with multiple rest and a few whipper but too tired to carry on to the top. I'll need to get used to the style and get my endurance up. Amazing route !

Seconded it to clean the gear. None of the move are too hard but there is a lot of climbing. Still a bit beyond me.

To clean the gear, nice tricky slab move at the start.

Took me a couple of tries to do the start.

awesome climb, rested twice because I got a bit scared, need to jump on it again

Ended being stupidly pumped at the top before the traverse. Really Nice corner.

got spanked but good route to work on, got everything crakvise

scared myself a bit, was sore from too much bouldering the week before. 2 rest (approx date)

not as reachy as it looks

Hard move at the top, exciting finish till I found good gear

probably seconded that one at some point, awesome on lead

good jamming at the start, to a fun finish

Feel on the slippery start, good to set your head straight

pumpier than it look, one to jump on on lead

Good fun and good warm up , the last pitch is a bit awkward to climb

Only did the first pitch

interesting climb, had trouble rescuing stuck cam

Used it as an aid practice climb (not the best choice), but ended up freeing most of it

top pitch as scary on second than on lead. Pretty cool thin and technical climb

a punchy one, the move of the ledge is a bit tricky for short people. Not sure if easy for the grade as I don't have much experience on this type of climbing at the grade

A bit reachy but some cool move, flashed on pre-placed gear.

Nice intro to climbing at Rosea, lead the 3rd pitch and messed up my 2 ropes and got heaps of drag ...

Linked pitch 1 and 2. I really loved pitch 4 on great orange rock.

tough warm up, especially with part of the route wet... Some dubious rock on the left after the ledge.

Awesome climb ! Got a bit spooked by some fiddly gear, but still went up it in questionable style . One to come back to.

Loose block at the start, we tip toed around the left to get established on the Stormbringer crack. Lead the second pitch, awesome corner crack. Watch out for a loose looking block when exiting the steep first part of the second pitch. Last pitch is a bit committing on lead but short and powerful. We added some cord to the rap tree. Bring some extra sling/cord for the rap, as the existing tat is old and shouldn't be trusted.

Only did the first pitch, rapped of 2 nuts from the ledge below the second pitch. Nice feature, some loose rock in places. A few committing move, but nothing too hard

Avoid yanking on the chalked (??) loose block in the middle of the first pitch. Great second pitch, did it yoyo style. Lead it to the top after Sean handed me the lead. Tricky wide section. Rap anchor is on the left when topping out.

Yoyo style again. The gear around the crux is small and fiddly. Probably fine if you are feeling strong. Felt a bit sandbagged, but maybe it's because that was the last climb of the day. Bring some sling/cord for rapping of tree.

Felt hard for 18, probably easier for taller people

maybe 20, felt hard for 19 but I was climbing in approach shoes. Maybe easier for taller people

Pumped out at the end of the crux with the jug in sight. I was feeling solid till there.

Such an outrageous climb. And of course I got to lead the roof pitch

first onsight at the grade, good mix from steep jugs to slab

Slipped of a glassy crimp on the onsight attempt. Top move a bit long for shorties.

second go, managed to improvise the crux on the redpoint

big holds, nice warmup

cleaned it, was too tired to give it a proper shot. fun moves

Warm up, not as crimpy as I remembered

Quite good, took a bit of time to figure out the top moves. The top is a bit sandy, hopefully it'll clean up with traffic

Might be an alzheimer onsight, but the climbind didn't seem familiar.

Jug pulling like in the gym, good fun

Jump on it again after more than a year. Slopers still felt desperate, but a lot more solid on the crimps.

Got it first redpoint shot ! after going up once to place the draw. Felt a lot more solid on the slopers. Awesome climbing with a lot of variety.

To finish the day, I can still do the moves.