Routes in Cloggy

Enjoyable and quite exposed.

Start: Start a few metres right of "The Wayfarer" at a crack leading to an arete at 7 metres.

1. 67m (10) Climb crack to arete and follow arete for 60 metres.

2. 55m (10) Move right on the wall and go up.

Start: Start on the left wall of the big central chimney.

1. 50m (8) Up the corner for a rope-length.

2. 50m (8) Go left to the front of the buttress and up for another 50 metres.

3. 30m (8) Climb the right arete to a big ledge.

4. 30m (8) A chimney on the left leads through the overhang then up a smooth slab to more jugs.

Despite a name worthy of Baxter, this is a very good, sustained and atmospheric climb.

Start: Start at a boulder below a steep wall a metre or two right of "Dur Hardder Direct"

1. 30m (18) Step off boulder and go straight up steep wall to an overhang near the left arete. Traverse 8 metres right then diagonally right to small stance.

2. 25m (19) Step left and climb up leftwards through the overhang, heading for a massive bollard. From the bollard continue right up a corner.

3. 20m (-) On up the corner for 5 metres then go up.

4. 25m (-) Up

A sombre cleft.

Start: Start at the chimney-gully marking the right side of the "Maiden Ecstasy" wall.

1. 35m (14) 'Gully' to a terrace.

2. 20m (14) Move right a little then hand-traverse back left into the line and follow it to a ledge.

3. 40m (14) The chimney to a resting place.

4. 40m (-) Step right to the arete and go up.

Climbing on unusual rock up the most prominent groove on "Ripple Wall", starting near a large boulder that almost blocks the ledge.

1. 50m (11) Up the groove to belay behind the pinnacle.

2. 20m (11) Up the arete.

Pleasant.

Climb the easy-angled corner from the very bottom. Near the top, keep to the outer edge of the chimney to avoid loose rock.

Nice climbing.

The right-leading crack just right of Black Marsupial Lion As An Established Rumour fades out after a while. Continue up the wall with poor protection to the next crack and follow it.

Steep but with big holds. Immediately below the Maiden Ecstasy buttress are Steep but with big holds. Enter the crack right of Lightning from the right and follow it.

Exciting and a bit loose up the crack on the right-hand side of the crag just right and uphill from Slaughterhouse 5.

Climb a ramp from the left to gain the right-hand crack. Follow the crack to a gully then step back left and heave up the headwall.

Intricate.

Start 2 metres right of Breakfast Of Champions. There may be the remains of a cairn. Climb the slab and bulge just right of a niche. Go diagonally right to easier ground.

Technical laybacking.

Start 5 metres right of Player Piano and climb up into the bottomless niche. Up left to a rest and then up right into a strange flared groove that leads to fearsome jugs.

The left-hand crack system

Start just up the slope from The Good Soldier.

Climb the arete 2 metres right of the corner for 15 metres to a small overhang. Move right beneath this overhang for 3 metres then climb the wall to the top.

Unattractive and serious. Start a few metres right of "Sunset Groove" ata short flake-chimney just right of the boulder.

1. 46m (14) Up the edge of the flake. Bridge back left to the bulging wall and up into the wide groove. When the groove divides, take the left-hand fork.

2. 18m (-) Continue up the groove and then up the right side of the summit block.

The big corner on the right side of "Ripple Wall", some distance right of the other climbs.

Climb the big corner to a ledge. Take the crack in the right wall until it rejoins the corner and continue up.

Good climbing directly up the middle of the steep rock.

Start: Start 6 metres right of "Maiden Ecstasy".

1. 30m (22) Up to an undercling at 5 metres, reach right and up groove until it joins "Maiden Ecstasy" and up to belay as for that climb.

2. 50m (22) Go straight up. When it steepens, tend right through a series of overhangs. Then the headwall to the ridge. To descend either scramble down the ridge and abseil off a bollard or continue easily to the top.

There is a weakness at the right end of the arch leading to a hanging corner. A few metres up left from the lowest point of the wall, a narrow ramp cuts steeply up right.

It would probably be safer to combine the first two pitches.

1. 27m (17) Climb the ramp until about 3 metres below an overlap. Exposed traverse right for 7 metres then launch up and right to a hanging belay (many cams and strong nerves for belay) under the arch below the hanging belay

2. 10m (-) Pull around arch into a hanging corner. Move up to an overlap and make a wide step left to the arete. Continue up to a stance.

3. 28m (-) A curving flake crack leads diagonally right and up. Continue steeply to a big ledge.

4. 35m (-) Roped scrambling up the final buttress avoids the surrounding heinous scrub.