Routes in Curiosity Crag

Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall. Committing moves up thin crack, move right and up overhang for five metres, veer left with easier climbing to the top. Continuing straight up makes for a more sustained finish.

Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary.

Start In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack.

Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt.

Start on the left of the grey arete.

Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back.

Straight up block on rounded jugs left of the arete. Tricky move at the end to gain ledge. Easily accessed from the descent gully.

Start: 5m left of the bolt on 'Bug Powder Dust' ledge.

Variant finish to Bug Powder Dust.

Starts at the BR off the ledge, as for 2nd pitch of Bug Powder Dust. Climb the left side of the pale central streak directly through top bulge. Swing right to top out (or continue straight up for a more exciting finale). Blackness courtesy of the previous week’s Vicparks “controlled burn” (and it's a quote from The Commitments).

Exposure plus, and linked with The Generator Routes this makes an awesome long pitch. Start at halfway ledge two meters right of Bug Powder Dust. Follow the 4FHs up the arête, moving to the right-hand side at the 3rd FH. (25m rap) (DRB anchor as of March 2024 - ignore fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon)

Start: 6 meters right of 'Bug Powder Dust'.

Three bolts to ledge and DDB.

A bouldery link-up of The Generator Route * 22 and The Extension Lead * 18. Climb The Generator Route and continue straight up the orange bulge past 2 FHs to join The Extension Lead at its (now) second FH on the arête. 8 FHs in total. (DRB anchor added as of March 2024 - ignore the fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon)

Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'.

Up past 3 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 4th FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay.

This mini link-up route is now a sports route Start as for Screaming Trees. First part of Screaming Trees, past 3 FH to horizontal break, traverse left clipping first FH of The Alternator to the anchors on The Generator Route.

The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description)

Start: At the line that splits the wall.

Climb crack, at the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right hand crack. Some loose rock. Take twin ropes or long slings, could be done in 2 pitches, with a belay at the end of the traverse.

Starts at Night Owl Theatre. A bit of jamming to gain the prow which takes you to the horizontal, then up the classy orange face above. From the 5th bolt, trend left to gain access to hollow jugs, before moving back right.

A scary girdle traverse on friable rock.

Start: At sandy cleft right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.

1. 10m (17) Up sandy cleft with no runnners.

2. 25m (17) Crux, step across left, around arete, gingerly down and continue left to the welcome ledge.

Sustained face climbing Start 5 meters right of Night Owl Theatre.

Directly up the wall past FHs and rings, no trad gear required.

A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock.

Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam.

A single rope will suffice if you take a few 60cm draws. Climb to the 4th FH, then traverse right 5m past FH to join Curiosity. Continue up past 2 more FHs to break. Back left for 2m then finish up past 3FHs as for Curiosity.

Sustained face climbing on a variety of interesting holds. The route's status as the area's classic - and a bit of a soft tick - may change some time in the future should some of the crucial holds get ripped off it!

Follow the line of bolts 5m right of 'Careful With That Axe, Liam', taking a jink to the right near the top. Just one clip-and-go in the anchor - take care.

Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end.

Start 8m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat on the black streak.

Up to 2nd FH taking heed of the flexible block on the left. Head left then back right above 2nd FH to gain a rest in the grey corner. Swing around right of the arête to FH and up to the long blunt grey arête above. Climbing is often just left of the arête with adequate gear on the arête proper.

Absorbing climbing directly up the arête to the highest point on the buttress. Double up on small wires, a few small cams are handy, despite appearances protection is good.

Starts in the chasm 15m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat

Up the steep fracture for 8m and finger traverse leftwards 3m to rest on the grey arête (belay possible to eliminate drag). Then directly up the grey arete.

Follow Lynx Effect for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall.

Continue directly up grey wall.

Start: Start as for Lynx Effect.

Stretch Your calves before you start.

Start: Starts 5m right of 'Cat Scratch Fever' at end of chasm.

Bridge up using crack for protection and traverse right at the top of the big chockstone.

Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start.

Start: Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang.

Up edges on slab to stance below overhang, veer left then up to anchor.

Follow line of rings.

Start: Right of 'Separation Anxiety'.

An entrant for the worst of the worst... Crappy line, dodgy rock, ground fall potential, its all here.

Start: Left of corner on the track before Paler Shade of White just past the big log.

1. 17m (22) Unprotected hardish moves on dodgy holds lead to jugs at overhang where the gear is not good and the moss begins. Continue to belay at big ledge. Smell the roses.

2. 8m (19) Continue up left side of orange wall via a most awkward slopey mantle off the deck.

Bold climbing leftwards along the rising traverse. Double ropes are useful.

At weakness 6m left of Traditional Arrangement.

Climb leftward along rising traverse. A small wire can be found, low down, two thirds along the traverse. Continue up the easy arête to finish at the large ledge. Climb off around to the left or right to Moonlight Wall.

Harder than it looks.

Start: At the right leaning hand/fist crack in middle of the wall at ground level.

Follow the crack to the large ledge at half height. From here you can access the next 4 climbs.

Will clean up with traffic.

Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of 'Controlled Burn'.

Up to shallow corner to rap anchor.

Climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires.

Start: Starts below the bolt in the middle of the face.

Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above.

Start: Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on 'Controlled Burn' and 4m left of the right arête.

Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux).

Start: Starts as for 'Moonlight Mile'

Steep and popular Arete

If you still have some juice left at the end of Tarzans Swing, clip the anchor with a long sling and monkey right past a FH on unlikely jugs to the final moves and then anchor of Densei

Right side of scoops, 6 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 4m right of Tarzan's Swing.

Excellent Nowra style power endurance climbing.

Up left side of scoops. 5 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 15m R of 'Tarzan' Swing.

Good traverse leads to great final crack.

Start: Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of

1. 10m (9) Climb up through a hole to the top of the block and then up to terrace.

2. 15m (19) Traverse right along the brek to the vertical line and up a couple of moves to a hanging belay.

3. 10m (20) Crack to top.

A fun novelty route but with a sting in the tail. Start in the chasm at the base of Grease Nipples wall. Stick clip high first FH (or preclip by bridging up chimney). Warning: A tight belay is essential for this climb, ESPECIALLY at the last bolt, do not give a soft catch. Falls are generally safe, but be wary of the obvious risk. It's safer and easier (grade 21) if you skip the top moves and simply step off the climb! to access the upper ledge.

The only way through the amazing bulging orange wall from the ground. Start well up on the R above Chimney Sweep. Up wall, then pull across blankness on the first 2 FH's to gain the holds (at 3rd FH). Up line to join Grease Nipples for 10m before an exciting traverse L and up the headwall. Take wires and some small-med cams. Quite a full value excursion, despite the aid.

Trench climbing par excellence.

Start: Start at the right-hand side of the major horizontal break that "Grease Nipples" traverse from the left..

Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall.

Start: Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner.

Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete.

Start: Start as for 'Fillet De Boeuf'

Marginal pro.

Start: Start on grey wall 25 metres right of 'Petit Dejeuner'