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Routes in Dreamtime Wall for selected grade

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
17 Tellumis Dreaming

Delicate sustained and varied climbing. Up the left side of the front of the buttress stepping left after the first bolt. Be wary of loose rock especially near the top. Use rap anchors above Sookie for decent.

FA: Steve Toal & Paula Greene, 2012

Sport 20m, 6
17 Bella's Crack

The line in the shady gully left of Archie's 'Arete' and REM. Delicate moves off the ground (crux) lead to great jams, stemming, and underclings. Once on top of the flake climb up and left to a DBB. Single Rack up to #3 camalot. For full beard stroking rights, lead past the DBB to the notch, at run out grade 9. Another DBB awaits here..

Start: Large Flake/Crack left of REM

Trad 35m
17 Underhanded Tactics

Starts about 4m further up the gully from UTDS. Up on the right-hand side of the first bolt, then begin trending left before reaching a thin foot-rail under the 3rd bolt. Delicately traverse left into the the UTDS line, possibly using a 60cm+ quickdraw on the 4th bolt to minimise drag. Up to a thought-provoking series of underclings and a committing finish directly above final bolt. Rappel anchor on back wall of ledge above.

FA: Dave Scarlett, 23 Apr 2016

Sport 25m, 6
17 Short Memory

Sustained delicate face climbing with good pro. Shade until around midday. A new, lower set of anchors was added in 2016, removing the need for trad gear and making it possible to lower off down the route, rather than having to rappel from the platform at the start of Signe's Second Pitch into the gully around the corner.

Start: Starts at the foot of a grey ramp opposite R.E.M. (just right of a crack).

FA: Josef Goding & Damien Heath, 2009

Sport 25m, 13
17 Jardwadjali

Some good climbing but a bit inconsistant with some sections of loose rock remaining. Needs a good clean to be more enjoyable.

Start: this area is located around 250m up and left of 'Red Chilli Nights'. A big gully on the right side of the wall with a dark slab is a major feature. Starts 5m right of ramp at left end of cliff (about 25m down and left of

  1. 28m (16) Tend right into seam, then follow this left and up to ledge.

  2. 50m (17) Follow ledge left to steep black wall just left of corner. Up this to ledge. Step right into corner and up corner (great stemming and laybacking) to big ledge.

  3. 50m (12) Enjoyable but poorly protected face climbing to big ledge, easily up wall above this to belay on very top

FA: Josef Goding (P1, P3) & Damien Heath (P2), 2009

Trad 130m, 3
17 Sorry

A direct start to an apology. Start 5m R of P1 of The Apology. 3FHs conveniently finishing at its P1 anchors.

FA: Paul Geil, 26 Jan 2015

Sport 15m, 3
17 Kadaitcha

Good climbing on good rock with good gear.

Start: Starts about 100m down and right of 'Carmina Burana' at an attractive left leading corner crack, with a ledge just off the ground.

  1. 25m (15) Up and left along the big corner. Belay at ledge.

  2. 30m (17) Left on ledge then up corner to reach big orange corner. Left and up this to finish dramatically up steeply on huge jugs just right of corner crack. Double bolt rap station. 30m to ground.

FA: Michael O'Briwn (P1) & Josef Goding (P2), 2009

Trad 55m, 2
17 Goorialla

The first climb of the area.

Start: Climbs the major corner in the middle of dreamtime wall left of a dramatic, unclimbed right angle flake line.

  1. 45m (16) Up right wall of orange corner. Left round overhang and traverse left to foot of corner.

  2. 25m (6) To tree then left line up corner to ledge of left.

  3. 30m (17) Delicately up, then crack.

Trad 90m, 3
17 Bunjil

Good moves but some suss rock and spaced mediocre pro detract.

Start: Thin crack about 12m right of 'Quinkan'

  1. 40m (16) Step right, then left on to bulge. Up crack line using the wall to the left when needed. Belay at bleached ledge.

  2. 40m (17) Up twin lines, right right at overhang and finish up wall. Belay on ledge. Move left (facing the cliff) to rap off "Rainbow Serpent"'s anchor. Suggest stay roped up for this!

FA: Peter McKeand & Keith Lockwood, 1974

Trad 80m, 2
17 Quinkan

Start: In the big corner on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

  1. 35m (17) At bushes go left and up wall, then back to corner and up to tree.

  2. 35m (17) Chimney to top. Scramble (roped) to anchor above 'Rainbow Serpent'.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood (Alt), 1974

Trad 70m, 2
17 Black Power

Climb to overhang and up crack above.

Start: Starts a few meters right of 'Never Never' at a thin crack beside a large tree.

FA: Mathew Taylor & Chris Baxter, 1976

Trad 18m

Showing all 11 routes.

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