Routes in North-West Serra Range for selected grade

Up middle of wall 13m left of Solarplexed and 36m right of Slip, Slop, Slap. Up right over conglomerate bulge, passing right of bulges. Veer back left and up steeply.

Corner with roof at half-height several easy corners left of start of upper cliff. Left under roof. Crack.

A huge corner capped by big rooves.

Start: Starts half way up the gully just left of \\

1. 40m (17) climb up into the corner, traverse right from below steep section and make a tricky mantle past a piton runner on to a loose block. Up left on ramp and on up crack. Traverse left to corner from fixed nut.

2. 33m (17) (crux) up line (large nuts, loose rock, PR) and up right to main roof

3. 33m (17) Traverse right (four aids, including two fixed aid pitons) using last aid to lower to ledge. On to right wall (fixed aid piton) and make an exposed traverse right (PR) to shallow groove. Up to ledge on right arete

4. 38m (17) Up right to finish up the golden handshake

Good climbing but hard to find your way as the line is very subtle - a big adventure!

Start: Starts about 10m up the gully where the angle eases and a crack/corner system starts on the right wall (facing the cliff).

1. 45m (17) Climb a series of cracks and corners to ledge. Tend up and rightwards (tricky thin slabbing in some sections) up wall to belay in sloping 10m long corner crack with some fixed nuts and a very old big (what used to be red) sling with some small orange roofes above and right and small ledge above and left.

2. 40m (15) up corner then step left onto small ledge. Up and right a little to arete. Up to large corner with attractive orange corner just left of middle and small ledge right of this. Belay near attractive orange corner near center of large corner.

3. 50m (15) Up attractive corner crack then move left and up wall on good horizontal breaks to large ledge (much vegetation!). Either break the belay here or continue up to top by left (corner) or right wall. Belay on summit.

Start 4m left of I Can Smell Something Burning at twin-trunked tree. Up twin cracks, bulges, then traverse right to finish up I Can Smell Something Burning.

Right of Sugar Tax is an attractive slabby grey wall. Stuffed Kiwi takes diagonal from left to right on this.

The first section of cliff (the Portiere) rises from the creek-bed. The Edge starts 10m left of the cliff's right end. Right of two curving cracks. Move left through break.

2m left of The Edge, go straight up and through break on right of overhang.

Start as for 'State of the Art' and climb left line. Go left of bulge and finish up notch.

Line on left side of curved, recessed wall left of Daggy Dance.

Left-leaning diagonal 10m left of Daggy Dance.

Line just right of left arete of Kaitoke buttress. Continue up arete and veer left.

From 3m left of Biggles and Sapphire, go up left past loose blocks on ledge. Left to line on left of wall. Left through final bulge.

Corner with overhangs on buttress left of 'Friends in High Places'.

On next buttress left of 'Up the Spout'. Step left at 3m from corner on right side and climb line.

Up chimney in the gully on left of the upper one of two clean walls, up and right of Shattered. Step right to next line and climb it. Right round arete, across face to crack. Up.

Corner behind conifer right of BSAF.

Delicate sustained and varied climbing. Up the left side of the front of the buttress stepping left after the first bolt. Be wary of loose rock especially near the top. Use rap anchors above Sookie for decent.

The line in the shady gully left of Archie's 'Arete' and REM. Delicate moves off the ground (crux) lead to great jams, stemming, and underclings. Once on top of the flake climb up and left to a DBB. Single Rack up to #3 camalot. For full beard stroking rights, lead past the DBB to the notch, at run out grade 9. Another DBB awaits here..

Start: Large Flake/Crack left of REM

Starts about 4m further up the gully from UTDS. Up on the right-hand side of the first bolt, then begin trending left before reaching a thin foot-rail under the 3rd bolt. Delicately traverse left into the the UTDS line, possibly using a 60cm+ quickdraw on the 4th bolt to minimise drag. Up to a thought-provoking series of underclings and a committing finish directly above final bolt. Rappel anchor on back wall of ledge above.

Sustained delicate face climbing with good pro. Shade until around midday. A new, lower set of anchors was added in 2016, removing the need for trad gear and making it possible to lower off down the route, rather than having to rappel from the platform at the start of Signe's Second Pitch into the gully around the corner.

Start: Starts at the foot of a grey ramp opposite R.E.M. (just right of a crack).

Some good climbing but a bit inconsistant with some sections of loose rock remaining. Needs a good clean to be more enjoyable.

Start: this area is located around 250m up and left of 'Red Chilli Nights'. A big gully on the right side of the wall with a dark slab is a major feature. Starts 5m right of ramp at left end of cliff (about 25m down and left of

1. 28m (16) Tend right into seam, then follow this left and up to ledge.

2. 50m (17) Follow ledge left to steep black wall just left of corner. Up this to ledge. Step right into corner and up corner (great stemming and laybacking) to big ledge.

3. 50m (12) Enjoyable but poorly protected face climbing to big ledge, easily up wall above this to belay on very top

A direct start to an apology. Start 5m R of P1 of The Apology. 3FHs conveniently finishing at its P1 anchors.

Good climbing on good rock with good gear.

Start: Starts about 100m down and right of 'Carmina Burana' at an attractive left leading corner crack, with a ledge just off the ground.

1. 25m (15) Up and left along the big corner. Belay at ledge.

2. 30m (17) Left on ledge then up corner to reach big orange corner. Left and up this to finish dramatically up steeply on huge jugs just right of corner crack. Double bolt rap station. 30m to ground.

The first climb of the area.

Start: Climbs the major corner in the middle of dreamtime wall left of a dramatic, unclimbed right angle flake line.

1. 45m (16) Up right wall of orange corner. Left round overhang and traverse left to foot of corner.

2. 25m (6) To tree then left line up corner to ledge of left.

3. 30m (17) Delicately up, then crack.

Good moves but some suss rock and spaced mediocre pro detract.

Start: Thin crack about 12m right of 'Quinkan'

1. 40m (16) Step right, then left on to bulge. Up crack line using the wall to the left when needed. Belay at bleached ledge.

2. 40m (17) Up twin lines, right right at overhang and finish up wall. Belay on ledge. Move left (facing the cliff) to rap off "Rainbow Serpent"'s anchor. Suggest stay roped up for this!

Start: In the big corner on the right side of 'Tjuringa' Buttress

1. 35m (17) At bushes go left and up wall, then back to corner and up to tree.

2. 35m (17) Chimney to top. Scramble (roped) to anchor above 'Rainbow Serpent'.

Climb to overhang and up crack above.

Start: Starts a few meters right of 'Never Never' at a thin crack beside a large tree.