Routes in Bullaces Buttress

Attractive crack below left end of roof at left end of E-facing section of cliff. Crack to bypass left end of roof, to lower off bolts.

As with previous three routes, this ends with thought-provoking face-climbing. Up flake 2m right of Radio Active and opposite two grass-trees, then directly up wall.

The first (left one) of three juggy cracks at right end of cliff. (First two don’t reach ground.) Boulder wall to foot of crack. Up this, then slightly right up tricky wall. Abseil bolts directly above. Pity whoever put these in and retroed the routes at the left hand end didn't add some bolts to the poorly protected finish of this and the routes to the right.

Up and left to foot of second crack, 2m right of Wailing Wall. Up this, then wall above on fiddly spaced pro.

Up third crack, 1m right of Palais de Melon, then up and right on wall to finish as for Sue’s Garden.

Start right side of arete/detach pillar, Easy start to good stance then crimps/flat rails all the way up after 2nd bolt.

Landmark slanting offwidth approximately 5m from left end of cliff. Take large cams and and long slings. Go behind large chockstone and easily up and right to abseil tree above (or alternatively, carefully downclimb gully to climbers left). Was originally graded 19 in the guidebook and 22 (!) on theCrag, however appears to have been first climbed facing the opposite way. Having one's left side in the crack makes this a fairly moderate proposition.

Beautiful climbing up middle of the wall trending up and left. Start 3 m right of Buns of Power, immediately under first bolt (Small rock there to assist shorter climbers with start moves).

Retro bolted and lower offs added at some point; climb no longer rambles to the top of the cliff.

More good face climbing. Start 2m right of Mes Amis (left side of arete/detached pillar). Hard start moves onto good stance and rest, followed by more tricky moves heading onto left face. Shares 1 bolt with Skinless Chicken with an option to additionally clip the first bolt of Skinless Chicken (Suggest extended draw if doing so to reduce rope drag).

Retro bolted and lower off added.

Balancy face-climbing. Up short groove 1 m right of An Embarrassment of Riches. Step up right to R-facing flake. Up and left, then straight up to roof. Step left to top of steep section of ER and finish up AEOR.

Much like the local wildlife, this one’s a screamer (and an excellent reason to visit).

Start calmly up obvious diagonal on east face of buttress. Become daunted by steepness, enjoy a few absolute sinkers then make some noise for the pointy beak of the crack. Claw straight up crimps with less gear (large nut and small cams) and raise your crest triumphantly into easier and mossier ground.

Bomber gear for crux, take care of slab below. Tree anchor.