Routes as trad in Gilham's Crags - Southside

Arete on left side of wall, capped by big block.

Start on ledge. Up and left to ledge of capping block. You can go directly up and over roof at 21.

Up subtle wall, starting from small platform immediately right of orange section.

Wall straight up and right of Golden Ghetto Greper.

Start off ledge on right side of face. Up through bulge and tend right.

Steep face on left near arete.

Juggy bulges on left, stepping out below BR.

Tiring. On the left wall of the gully. Steeply up to BR, a few fingery moves, step left and then up.

At the end of the gully about 2 metres right of Three Little Piggies with a hard starting move.

The wall behind the arete of Lethargic Liver. The crack through the roof.

The obvious easy-angled arete at the top of the gully.

The grey wall 2 metres right of Lethargic Liver. Pull past tiny overlap and up slabby wall above.

The grey wall just before the entrance to the gully.

The slabby grey wall right of Head Over Heels Start at obvious tree, up to left end of huge cave, continue up line above.

Start at back of gully right of Schmitt Block, near a big block. Crack, then scoop.

Located in the back of the gully on the left side of Smoke Wall, 4m right of Fun Factor. A tricky start leads to increasingly harder climbing.

The crack near the arete, 2 metres right of Sniffing The White Owl.

A complete waste of time.

Start: on the left side of the orange wall is a short crack, 4m left of Smoking Is A Health Hazard. After the crack traverse 2m right and then go up rightwards.

Very thin seam up the face left of A Burnt Out Case, belay when easier ground is reached.

Climb up pillar into large crack, follow up over bulge, traverse right on horizontal seam to centre of the face, then straight up line to ledge before roof, chains are on right of ledge.

Up flake crack right of A Burnt Out Case, up past bolt and slightly left.

Great line up the centre of the wall. Committing start on pockets up to bolts & crack/overlaps, crossing A Burnt Out Case halfway.

The best route in the area of it's grade. Starts 4m right of A Burnt Out Case at small roof/overlap. Seams and horizontals to open book corner and tricky final face.

Right hand variant of Do You Mind If I Smoke, start 5 metres to right., Below crack/seams at R end of cave. Gymnastic start up jugs and crack, then trend up and L up horizontals and bulges till you join " Do You Mind If I Smoke" at its crux.

Good line, pity about the poor rock quality and fiddly/crap protection. Not worth a star in my opinion.

Start: About 4-5m right up the arete (start off the big boulder to it's right).

Up the arete then left to finish up "Do You Mind If I Smoke?" and rap off at the ledge.

Just a way of getting above 'Red Wall'

Start: far left side of the wall

From the blocks on the left side of the wall, climb the arete easily.

A damn fine route which sees a lot of wingers off the crux move. Starts from the blocks left of the cave on the L side of 'Red Rain' Wall. Up easily to traverse right along horizontal crack to under the bulge. An easy dyno or mega reach is needed to reach the lip. Continue up obvious line to a stance. Short easy crack on right (which leads to rap chains) or if you still have some go go juice swing left up exciting juggy wall.

Don't trust the pitons. Step out above the cave immediately right of Cloud Nine past PR and straight on up the wall to another horizontal (cloud nine). Up to another piton and left to good hold on the nose, then up.

Cloud Nine direct. Start as per Welsh Grabbit then go right and up and through overhang past piton. Then up wall to join Cloud Nine on ledge. Sustained, difficult climbing, and in it's current state (2021) this at least an R rated grade 26 if you're going ground up.

One of the best. Big central line of the cliff. Starts in middle of wall left of bird poo. Mantle past amazing hole and up slopes past FH to stance (fist sized cam). Tricky moves up and left under roofs past 2 FHs leads to an airy traverse past an old piton (back up with small cam), then a final gnarly bulgy crack with fixed nut. Finish as for Cloud Nine. 3 FHs & Trad.

Dramatic climbing on stunning rock.

Climb Red Rain to its third bolt. Traverse rightwards past a FH then blast up the amazing bulging face above passing three more FH's. At the last FH iron cross leftwards to gain the hanging prow in a dramatic position (2 camalot). Latch a prominent jug at 12 o'clock before moving left and up to rings.

Spectacular with outrageous situations, and best done in one pitch. Equipped with a mix of rings and FHs, supplement with a full rack of cams.

Starts a few metres left of IHTR. Can also start up RR.

Pull onto shelf and traverse left to blocks. Up to stance below hanging jug (often sandy). Into shallow hanging corner, then continue up and right to overhang and a rest (original route belayed here). Make an exposed traverse leftwards, going straight up at incut jug to finish at lower-offs (27m to the ground).

Climb the leaning corner to a roof. Scary moves gain the lip of the roof. Hand traverse left to a shallow corner and pull up for a rest. finish easily.

A good line with an exciting overhang. Climb the line all the way. Belays can be had both immediately above and below the roof.

Start about 50 metres right of I Hear The Rain at a strong line with a large roof at 25 metres.

Tacky. Take the easy crack 8 metres right of Restless until it blanks. Traverse left along break, up past tree to corner and up this. Gully walk-off is awful.

Start left of the original and go straight up into the corner line. 11-1990

Up the corner and face to the horizontal break. Traverse right to belay as for "Begegnung"

Start: Start 6 metres left of "Begegnung"

Nice line, nice climbing. Good rock. Retro-bolted accidentally.

Step on chockstone below open book corner in the middle of the wall to gain good horizontal break. Move right on mossy slab into corner proper. Up past FH to steep well protected conclusion. Rap station on ledge.

A continuation to Begegnung

1. 20m (17) Up Begegnung to rap station on ledge.

2. 15m (3) Walk right (facing the cliff) on ledge and up to terrace.

3. 15m (20) Blast steeply up the left side of the juggy steep face passing two amazing (yet to be done) left traverses about 2m apart (vertically). Belay at ledge. A rap station here would be useful.

An unlikely line that features a fierce crux at the end.

Start as for 'Begegnung'; at the bolt follow the horizontals rightwards (a bit up and down) for about ten meters to an obvious corner which you move up for a move or two, then step right again past another little corner onto a rest, before finishing easily to rap anchor.

The machine gun is beautiful. An excellent start leads to a finish where the crux seems to be avoiding the neighbouring routes.

The leftmost route on the wall starts from the ledge above the waterfall with a powerful undercut start. Climb past five FHs to reach the dyke, then head diagonally leftwards (ie climb above the dyke, but don't get drawn to the bolt above - that is for 'The Gloaming') past a couple of small cam placements to the anchor.

An alternative finish is to head straight up from the dyke (past a 0.4 camalot placement) to join the last 2 FH of 'The Gloaming'.

Takes in the cruxes of both routes. Start up MeB at the dike move into TGD.

The best route on the wall? At the fourth FH on the Gloaming, instead of going left, go straight up past three more FHs, once on the steep headwall, head right on cams to an anchor.

An alternative is to finish up Sleazy Slimpers, at no change to the grade (no trad gear required).

The best line on the wall is now renamed. Starts at the right end of the obvious dyke and follows it all the way back left, finishing at the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'. Take a number three rock or one camalot for between the second and third bolts. You also need a couple of small cams for the last section.

A bit unlikely. Start at the same spot as Horizon, but blast straight up past three FHs and natural gear to anchor at top. Might be harder than 24 for shorties.

Crack up mossy wall across gully from Begegnung.

A steep, clean wall with little protection. The main line on the west wall of the next buttress right of Drop Of The Watch, starting from the cave and exiting right of the small roof.

Good climbing up a bulging finger and hand-crack which is the main line on the next buttress right of Something New.

High up on the hill above Don't Be Denied is a mossy wall, the left of three buttresses The crack on this is worthless. On the next buttress down right from this climb the pedestal and short corner 5 metres right of the guano-stained crack.

Worthless. On the next buttress down right of Stuck Up is a crack just right of short corner.