Showing all 26 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
18 R | Big Nose
Start: At the nose at left end of left wall of grotto, where the descent track meets the wall. Committing moves up thin crack, move right and up overhang for five metres, veer left with easier climbing to the top. Continuing straight up makes for a more sustained finish. FA: Rob Booth, Jill Gara & Ross Timms, 2003 | 12m | |||
17 R | Sticky Beak
Short with lack of protection, watch for loose hollow block at the start. Very ordinary. Start In the middle of the second tor down from Bug Powder Dust. Climb past loose block up shallow unprotected crack. FA: JIll Gara, Michael O'Reilly & Tuesday Phelan, 2003 | 12m | |||
18 | ★ Bug Powder Dust
Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt. Start on the left of the grey arete. Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back. FA: Jill Gara, Michael O'Reilly & Robin Holmes, 2003 | 27m | |||
16 | Bird's Nest Soup
Straight up block on rounded jugs left of the arete. Tricky move at the end to gain ledge. Easily accessed from the descent gully. Start: 5m left of the bolt on 'Bug Powder Dust' ledge. FA: Tuesday Phelan & Jill Gara, 2003 | 10m | |||
20 | ★ I'm Black and I'm Proud
Variant finish to Bug Powder Dust. Starts at the BR off the ledge, as for 2nd pitch of Bug Powder Dust. Climb the left side of the pale central streak directly through top bulge. Swing right to top out (or continue straight up for a more exciting finale). Blackness courtesy of the previous week’s Vicparks “controlled burn” (and it's a quote from The Commitments). FA: W Monks, N Cotton, C Barrett & M O'Reilly, 2003 | 15m, 1 | |||
26 | ★★ Screaming Trees
Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'. Up past 3 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 4th FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay. FA: Steve Chapman & Steven Wilson, 2003 | 25m, 4 | |||
18 | ★ Night Owl Theatre
The original route on the cliff."Hal Todd would be proud of this. The Del Monte of climbing." (Edited version of original description) Start: At the line that splits the wall. Climb crack, at the overhang, traverse right and finish up the right hand crack. Some loose rock. Take twin ropes or long slings, could be done in 2 pitches, with a belay at the end of the traverse. FA: Peter Treby, Andrew Webb & Neil Barr., 1985 | 30m | |||
17 R | Deadly Earnest
A scary girdle traverse on friable rock. Start: At sandy cleft right of 'Night Owl Theatre'.
FA: Gary Lyons, Gordon Bedford & Nick Tapp, 1993 | 35m, 2 | |||
23 | Catatonia
Backs off a little on arete, but keeps you working till the end. Start 8m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat on the black streak. Up to 2nd FH taking heed of the flexible block on the left. Head left then back right above 2nd FH to gain a rest in the grey corner. Swing around right of the arête to FH and up to the long blunt grey arête above. Climbing is often just left of the arête with adequate gear on the arête proper. FA: Steve Chapman & Jill Gara, 2006 | 32m | |||
23 | ★★ The Lynx Effect
Absorbing climbing directly up the arête to the highest point on the buttress. Double up on small wires, a few small cams are handy, despite appearances protection is good. Starts in the chasm 15m right of Curiosity Killed The Black Feral Cat Up the steep fracture for 8m and finger traverse leftwards 3m to rest on the grey arête (belay possible to eliminate drag). Then directly up the grey arete. FA: Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly & Jill Gara, 2003 | 30m | |||
23 | ★ Cat Scratch Fever
Follow Lynx Effect for 8m to where it traverses left. Arrange gear and launch straight up on crimps. Watch your back on the wall behind if you fall. Continue directly up grey wall. Start: Start as for Lynx Effect. FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2003 | 30m | |||
17 | Bridge Too Far
Stretch Your calves before you start. Start: Starts 5m right of 'Cat Scratch Fever' at end of chasm. Bridge up using crack for protection and traverse right at the top of the big chockstone. FA: Steve Chapman & Robin Holmes, 2003 | 18m | |||
20 R | ★ Separation Anxiety
Novelty climbing through overhang, lack of protection at start. Start: Runs up centre of the wall at the top of the grotto through the orange overhang. Up edges on slab to stance below overhang, veer left then up to anchor. FA: Rob Booth & Jill Gara, 2003 | 15m | |||
22 X | Valentine's Day Massacre
An entrant for the worst of the worst... Crappy line, dodgy rock, ground fall potential, its all here. Start: Left of corner on the track before Paler Shade of White just past the big log.
FA: Steve Chapman & Jill Gara (alternative leads), 2004 | 25m, 2 | |||
21 R | A Paler Shade of White
Bold climbing leftwards along the rising traverse. Double ropes are useful. At weakness 6m left of Traditional Arrangement. Climb leftward along rising traverse. A small wire can be found, low down, two thirds along the traverse. Continue up the easy arête to finish at the large ledge. Climb off around to the left or right to Moonlight Wall. FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara & Robin Holmes, 2003 | 22m | |||
18 | Traditional Arrangement
Harder than it looks. Start: At the right leaning hand/fist crack in middle of the wall at ground level. Follow the crack to the large ledge at half height. From here you can access the next 4 climbs. FA: Michael O'Reilly, Jill Gara & Robin Holmes, 2003 | 13m | |||
22 | ★ Gerni To The Centre Of The Earth
Will clean up with traffic. Starts on the ledge at FH 2m left of 'Controlled Burn'. Up to shallow corner to rap anchor. FA: Steve Chapman & Rob Booth, 2006 | 14m | |||
22 | ★ Controlled Burn
Climb left past bolt then right to gear placement. Committing climbing to top on slopey bulges. Take small cams and wires. Start: Starts below the bolt in the middle of the face. FA: Robin Holmes & Steve Chapman, 2003 | 14m | |||
21 | ★ Moonlight Mile
Climb directly up the wall, to the left end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the short corner/flake and exciting wall above. Start: Starts approx. 2 to 3m right of bolt on 'Controlled Burn' and 4m left of the right arête. FA: Michael O'Reilly & Jill Gara, 2003 | 11m | |||
22 | ★ Emotional Rescue
Climb upwards diagonally right to the right end of the small ledge at half height. Follow the horizontal breaks to the small overlap/rooflet near the right arête. Committing moves directly up the wall above (crux). Start: Starts as for 'Moonlight Mile' FA: Michael O'Reilly & Jill Gara, 2003 | 12m | |||
20 | ★★ Grease Nipples
Good traverse leads to great final crack. Start: Start under the huge block that leans against the left edge of the wall, 15-20 metres right of
FA: FA: Louise Shepherd, Nyrie Dodd did the finish as part of Work The Meat. Complete ascent : Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. Easter, 1988 | 45m, 3 | |||
25 M1 | ★★★ Grease Lightning
The only way through the amazing bulging orange wall from the ground. Start well up on the R above Chimney Sweep. Up wall, then pull across blankness on the first 2 FH's to gain the holds (at 3rd FH). Up line to join Grease Nipples for 10m before an exciting traverse L and up the headwall. Take wires and some small-med cams. Quite a full value excursion, despite the aid. FA: Goshen Watts, 18 Feb 2023 | 30m, 6 | |||
22 | Work The Meat
Trench climbing par excellence. Start: Start at the right-hand side of the major horizontal break that "Grease Nipples" traverse from the left.. FA: Louise Shepherd & Nyrie Dodd, 1985 | 30m | |||
18 | Fillet De Boeuf
Up wall, steeply at first then easily to a ledge at 8 metres. Step left and continue up the steep wall. Start: Start at foot of knobbly wall on right of scungy corner. FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993 | 20m | |||
13 | Petit Dejeuner
Climb up to ledge at 8 metres then move 3 metres right and climb crack-line running between left chimney and right arete. Start: Start as for 'Fillet De Boeuf' FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993 | 12m | |||
15 R | Hot Croissant
Marginal pro. Start: Start on grey wall 25 metres right of 'Petit Dejeuner' FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993 | 10m |
Showing all 26 routes.