Showing all 28 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
12 | When Heather Hops Out ...
Initial difficulties ease. The thin crack splitting the outcrop FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985 | 15m | |||
12 | What Uncle Bangla Did For Easter
His block. Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line. FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985 | 15m | |||
5 | Liars, Damn Liars And The F.C.V.
The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop. FA: Peter Watling, 1985 | 10m | |||
23 | ★ Golden Gaytime
Superb jamming. Slightly dirty exit doesn't really detract. The crack at the right-hand side. FA: Louise Shepherd & Nyrie Dodd, 1985 | 25m | |||
25 | ★ Give Me Aids
A pretty good route up the middle of the wall, Bouldery start then traverse right and up to lower off FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985 | 20m, 3 | |||
24 | The Fight to be Male
Short bouldery section past RB. Leftmost thin diagonal, 6 metres left of Give Me AIDS FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985 | 25m, 1 | |||
17 | Not Raving But Climbing
A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing. Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-crack in a black face. Climb the crack up the black face to a ledge (belay possible). Continue in the shallow corner which fades out below the final exciting bulge. FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985 | 45m | |||
12 | Wimp's Picnic
Why bother? Start: Start at hidden chimney 30 metres left of Not Raving But Climbing. Chimney to roof. Step left and up rib to chockstone. Bridge up and finish up left wall. FA: Peter Watling & Julie Flynn, 1985 | 50m | |||
9 | ★★ Keiph Ledgerton
A classic at the grade. The centre of the face left of Wimp's Picnic FA: Alan Hope & Julie Flynn, 1983 | 47m | |||
5 | Motornose
Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic". FA: Neil Barr & Les Flynn, 1986 | 45m | |||
17 | ★ Re-Employed
Up crack down on the R side of the slab (as for BFC, An Undeniable Truth), Step L to thin crack, then straight up the slab via 4 FH and some trad gear (small-med cams). Go through final roof 1m Left of chossy overhang - via a cool hidden pocket. Still quite runout despite the bolts, although much of the climbing is easier than TCBFC. Rap point is 36m exactly to the ground. Note, final FH is not quite the correct type, still works but will be replaced soon. FA: 28 Apr | 40m, 4 | |||
16 R | ★ Take This Job and Shove It
Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off. Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".
FA: Greg Caire, Sharyn George & Glenn Tempest, 1997 | 40m, 2 | |||
18 R | ★★ Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat
Classic climbing up the middle of the black slab. It gets an R rating due to a few exciting runouts, although gear shows up when it's needed - except for the final moves from which you do not want to fall off. FA: Neil Barr & Peter Darby, 1983 | 45m | |||
23 | ★★ Rivers of Tali Karng
Thrilling climbing. Power past two bolts to the break, then step left and pull through a series of commiting moves (#2 cam essential). Briefly recompose at the stance. Gain horizontal above and continue on technical edges just right of NAH's crack. Follow ramp to it's end then directly up to DRB anchor. 60m rope will just get you to the ground. | 32m, 2 | |||
20 X | Irish IUD
Has fragile face-climbing with no protection. Basically superseded by the later routes on this face. Start as for Fried Tent Dwellers Climb the crack of Fried Tent Dwellers to a bush. Continue up the face for 5 metres then climb diagonally left to the top. FA: Peter Darby & Neil Barr, 1983 | 35m | |||
19 | ★ Fried Tent Dwellers
Start on the face left of and at right-angles to Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat at a crack. Follow the crack past a bush and on to a tree near the overlap (belay possible). Continue through the overlap an up. FA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1991 | 45m | |||
22 | ★★ Seaweed Gorillas
Great face climbing on a smooth wall. Start 3 metres left of "Fried Tent Dwellers". Tricky start leads to a ledge and shallow corner. Up corner to BR and up the obvious water streak past another BR. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991 | 40m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Fossils In The West
Something of an escape from Seaweed Gorillas. Start as for Seaweed Gorillas. Up past first bolt on Seaweed Gorillas then move left to a crack on the arete. FA: Goeff Butcher, 1991 | 40m | |||
20 | ★ Not About Heroes
A good, sustained climb. Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"
FA: Kieran Loughran & Ed Neve (alt), 1986 | 55m, 2 | |||
13 | ★ Black Feral Cat, An Undeniable Truth
The arete left of "Keiph Ledgerton", starting up a crack on the left. At the overhang make a brief detour onto the left wall. FA: Neil Barr, Linda Horsley & Julie Flynn, 1983 | 50m | |||
20 | ★★ Rusty Carrot Bolts
Takes the crack in the middle of the wall, drifting a metre or so left past a bolt when the crack peters out and face holds thin, then back right to join the upper pitch of Not About Heroes. Good gear all the way, doubles of small & med cams may come in handy. Has a rap station, 28m back to the ground | 30m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ F!ush
A superb piece of rock but tends to be a bit damp after rain. The crack up the wall 15 metres left of Not About Heroes. Currently ('24) quite vegetated, could do with a clean up FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985 | 40m | |||
21 | ★ Ambrose
Up seam 5 metres left of F!ush, then right to twin cracks and so to gum tree. FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993 | 25m | |||
20 | World Championship Wrestling
The right-hand line from the ledge has good climbing after the initial scungy section.
FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1996 | 56m, 2 | |||
22 M0 | Bad Boy Butcher
The prominent steep flake to the left end of the black and orange water-washed section of Sausage Wall. Start by a conifer at the left end of the wall and boulder rightwards to line leading to flake. Thug your way over this then continue more easily to the roof. Traverse left and pull through to comfy ledge. FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2000 | 25m | |||
14 | Bonsai Your Pet
Intermittent cracks in the wall right of the corner. FA: Neil Barr, Julie Flynn & Linda Horsley, 1983 | 18m | |||
12 | Cymru Or Stuff Like That
Corner to cave. Now either abseil off, wander carefully off right or continue up unpleasant off-width. Start: Start amongst the trundle craters below the major corner. FA: Linda Horsley, julie Flynn & Neil Barr, 1983 | 18m | |||
17 | Silly Sausage
The left wall of the "Cymru" corner is undercut by a cave. Clamber onto and around the "sausage" to gain crack in centre of wall. climb the wall to horizontal break then step left to cave. Finish up steep crack. FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1995 | 27m |
Showing all 28 routes.