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Routes as trad in Slander Gully

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Showing all 28 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
12 When Heather Hops Out ...

Initial difficulties ease.

The thin crack splitting the outcrop

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Trad 15m
12 What Uncle Bangla Did For Easter

His block.

Go up the right-hand arete of the outcrop, step left at the bulge and up the line.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Trad 15m
5 Liars, Damn Liars And The F.C.V.

The crack right of the right-hand arete of the outcrop.

FA: Peter Watling, 1985

Trad 10m
23 Golden Gaytime

Superb jamming. Slightly dirty exit doesn't really detract.

The crack at the right-hand side.

FA: Louise Shepherd & Nyrie Dodd, 1985

Trad 25m
25 Give Me Aids

A pretty good route up the middle of the wall, Bouldery start then traverse right and up to lower off

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

Mixed trad 20m, 3
24 The Fight to be Male

Short bouldery section past RB.

Leftmost thin diagonal, 6 metres left of Give Me AIDS

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1985

Mixed trad 25m, 1
17 Not Raving But Climbing

A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing.

Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-crack in a black face.

Climb the crack up the black face to a ledge (belay possible). Continue in the shallow corner which fades out below the final exciting bulge.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Trad 45m
12 Wimp's Picnic

Why bother?

Start: Start at hidden chimney 30 metres left of Not Raving But Climbing.

Chimney to roof. Step left and up rib to chockstone. Bridge up and finish up left wall.

FA: Peter Watling & Julie Flynn, 1985

Trad 50m
9 Keiph Ledgerton

A classic at the grade.

The centre of the face left of Wimp's Picnic

FA: Alan Hope & Julie Flynn, 1983

Trad 47m
5 Motornose

Path of least resistance left of "Not Raving But Climbing" and right of the arete right of "Wimp's Picnic".

FA: Neil Barr & Les Flynn, 1986

Trad 45m
17 Re-Employed

Up crack down on the R side of the slab (as for BFC, An Undeniable Truth), Step L to thin crack, then straight up the slab via 4 FH and some trad gear (small-med cams). Go through final roof 1m Left of chossy overhang - via a cool hidden pocket. Still quite runout despite the bolts, although much of the climbing is easier than TCBFC. Rap point is 36m exactly to the ground. Note, final FH is not quite the correct type, still works but will be replaced soon.

FA: 28 Apr

Mixed trad 40m, 4
16 R Take This Job and Shove It

Enjoyable as long as you don't fall off.

Start: Start a metre or so right of "Twentieth 'Century' Black Feral Cat".

  1. 20m (16) Head diagonally right to the ledge and bushes halfway up the right arete of the wall

  2. 20m (8) Up the arete, as for "Black Feral cat, An Undeniable Truth".

FA: Greg Caire, Sharyn George & Glenn Tempest, 1997

Trad 40m, 2
18 R Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat

Classic climbing up the middle of the black slab. It gets an R rating due to a few exciting runouts, although gear shows up when it's needed - except for the final moves from which you do not want to fall off.

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Darby, 1983

Trad 45m
23 Rivers of Tali Karng

Thrilling climbing. Power past two bolts to the break, then step left and pull through a series of commiting moves (#2 cam essential). Briefly recompose at the stance. Gain horizontal above and continue on technical edges just right of NAH's crack. Follow ramp to it's end then directly up to DRB anchor. 60m rope will just get you to the ground.

FA: Poppy & T-Bone, 20 Apr

Mixed trad 32m, 2
20 X Irish IUD

Has fragile face-climbing with no protection. Basically superseded by the later routes on this face.

Start as for Fried Tent Dwellers

Climb the crack of Fried Tent Dwellers to a bush. Continue up the face for 5 metres then climb diagonally left to the top.

FA: Peter Darby & Neil Barr, 1983

Trad 35m
19 Fried Tent Dwellers

Start on the face left of and at right-angles to Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat at a crack.

Follow the crack past a bush and on to a tree near the overlap (belay possible). Continue through the overlap an up.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Chris Lawrence, 1991

Trad 45m
22 Seaweed Gorillas

Great face climbing on a smooth wall.

Start 3 metres left of "Fried Tent Dwellers".

Tricky start leads to a ledge and shallow corner. Up corner to BR and up the obvious water streak past another BR.

FA: Geoff Butcher, 1991

Mixed trad 40m, 2
22 Fossils In The West

Something of an escape from Seaweed Gorillas.

Start as for Seaweed Gorillas.

Up past first bolt on Seaweed Gorillas then move left to a crack on the arete.

FA: Goeff Butcher, 1991

Trad 40m
20 Not About Heroes

A good, sustained climb.

Start: Start at thin crack just right of the arete left of "Irish IUD"

  1. 20m (19) Up the thin crack until able to move left to a flake-line on the arete. When the flake ends, traverse left to the base of a crack in the centre of the wall and a tiny stance.

  2. 35m (20) Up the crack with some hard moves when it thins down and leads diagonally left. Either top out and walk off or use RCB rap station (28m to ground).

FA: Kieran Loughran & Ed Neve (alt), 1986

Trad 55m, 2
13 Black Feral Cat, An Undeniable Truth

The arete left of "Keiph Ledgerton", starting up a crack on the left. At the overhang make a brief detour onto the left wall.

FA: Neil Barr, Linda Horsley & Julie Flynn, 1983

Trad 50m
20 Rusty Carrot Bolts

Takes the crack in the middle of the wall, drifting a metre or so left past a bolt when the crack peters out and face holds thin, then back right to join the upper pitch of Not About Heroes. Good gear all the way, doubles of small & med cams may come in handy. Has a rap station, 28m back to the ground

FA: T-Bone & Poppy, 20 Apr

Mixed trad 30m, 1
16 F!ush

A superb piece of rock but tends to be a bit damp after rain.

The crack up the wall 15 metres left of Not About Heroes.

Currently ('24) quite vegetated, could do with a clean up

FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985

Trad 40m
21 Ambrose

Up seam 5 metres left of F!ush, then right to twin cracks and so to gum tree.

FA: Greg Aimer & Christina Freestone, 1993

Trad 25m
20 World Championship Wrestling

The right-hand line from the ledge has good climbing after the initial scungy section.

  1. 38m (20) Up to the ledge then step right and up corner. Step left and mantle, up to roof, then step right to belay.

  2. 18m (-) Crack, then left across horizontal to second crack. Up.

FA: Geoff Butcher & Michael Hampton, 1996

Trad 56m, 2
22 M0 Bad Boy Butcher

The prominent steep flake to the left end of the black and orange water-washed section of Sausage Wall.

Start by a conifer at the left end of the wall and boulder rightwards to line leading to flake. Thug your way over this then continue more easily to the roof. Traverse left and pull through to comfy ledge.

FA: Michael Hampton & Sharyn George, 2000

Trad 25m
14 Bonsai Your Pet

Intermittent cracks in the wall right of the corner.

FA: Neil Barr, Julie Flynn & Linda Horsley, 1983

Trad 18m
12 Cymru Or Stuff Like That

Corner to cave. Now either abseil off, wander carefully off right or continue up unpleasant off-width.

Start: Start amongst the trundle craters below the major corner.

FA: Linda Horsley, julie Flynn & Neil Barr, 1983

Trad 18m
17 Silly Sausage

The left wall of the "Cymru" corner is undercut by a cave.

Clamber onto and around the "sausage" to gain crack in centre of wall. climb the wall to horizontal break then step left to cave. Finish up steep crack.

FA: Michael Hampton & Geoff Butcher, 1995

Trad 27m

Showing all 28 routes.

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