A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
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Table of contents
- 1.
Hut Creek Track
11 in Crag
- 1.1. Red Cave 3 in Crag
- 1.2. Fawlty Towers 1 in Crag
- 1.3. Nearby Crag 3 in Crag
- 1.4. Mordor 4 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Hut Creek Track 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.260957, 142.292276
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
access issues
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
1.1. Red Cave 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.261017, 142.292033
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Wendy
Follow the steep crack in the left side of the cave, exiting through the same cave as "Welcome To Barbados". FA: Simon Mentz & Malcolm Matheson, 1992 | 23 | 15m | |||
| 2 |
★★★ Welcome to Barbados
Large roof doesn't even come close to describing this. Flake (peg) on right side of cave (facing in) to its end. Bulge, then line across ceiling to exit through left-most hole in roof. FA: Malcolm Matheson, James Falla & Paul Hoskins, 1993 | 29 | 50m | |||
| 3 |
★ Have a Nice Day
Fun roof problem. The attractive flake lust left of the start of Welcome To Barbados. Finish inside deep flake and abseil from horn. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Paul Hoskins, 2000 | 26 | 10m | |||
1.2. Fawlty Towers 1 route in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
Roofy but limited crag.
approach
GR 131742
Walk up Hut Creek to first rocky peak on right. May be easier these days to access via the cave of Hands access track.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Switchback
The main roof, the upper of the two biggest roofs, on the north face of the peak. A steep traverse left gains the start of a prominent shelf. Follow the shelf right to the next roof. Hand-traverse dramatically left, up, then traverse right to the arete on the brink of the roof. up wall to top. FA: Malcom Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 1993 | 23 | 35m | |||
1.3. Nearby Crag 3 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
A steep little crag on the south side of Hutt Creek about 1 km east of the Cave of Hands.
approach
Approach along Hutt Creek Track for about a kilometre after the gate until below the crag which is up on the right. Walk straight up the hillside for 15 or 20 minutes.
GR 137735 "Victoria Range" 1:25000 sheet.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Close At Hand
Very fine, sustained bridging. This the left of two big corners on the cliff. Very fine, sustained bridging. This the left of two big corners on the cliff. Up beautiful acute corner. A few metres of easy climbing then step right into smooth corner leading to roof. Traverse left at the roof to a big ledge below a large roof. Descend down gully to left. FA: Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 1989 | 20 | 25m | |||
| 2 |
★★ Duelling Imans
Wild climbing high on the stacked corners just right of 'Close At Hand'. The slightly conrived start robs the climb of a second star. Start 2 metres right of 'Close At Hand'. Up the first corner, moving slightly left at its apex to horizontal break. Traverse right to the next corner then straight up the 3 stacked corners to huge ledge. FA: Parrish Robbins & Kieran Loughran, 1990 | 24 | 40m | |||
| 3 |
All Around My Hat
The big corner 20 metres right of Duelling Imams. Stem past cleft to easy ground which leads to corner. Corner to roof, traverse left into a crack and follow this to big ledge. FA: Parrish Robbins, 1990 | 20 | 30m | |||
1.4. Mordor 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
summary
Fantastic, remote location but the approach ensures that visits will be few and far between.
approach
Roughly 3km north of the Fortress and about 2km West of Mt Thackeray. Yep - it's in the middle of no-where! Start your walk on the Hutt Creek Track, after half an hour take a right turn (uphill) after crossing two small dry creek beds within about 2-300m of each other (the turnoff is not far past the 2nd creek bed). Continue for another hour and a bit to find a little slice of remote heaven. Apparently was originally well-marked but there has been a large fire through since then.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
The Black Gate
Varied climbing amongst orange scoops, over zestful bulges, and up a quality headwall. Start off the ledge on the right side of the cliff (about 20m off the ground) where there are belay (FH) bolts. Pleasant climbing up the orange scoops leads to some powerful moves through the first of two bulges. Stumble past a second higher bulge before finishing up the sustained headwall in a great position. For a grade 22 outing climb to the 7th bolt and traverse 4m right to a rap/belay station. FA: Ingvar Lidman, 2009 | 28 | 37m, 15 | |||
| 2 |
SheLob's Lair
Spectacular right hand arete. Start: Start as per 'The Black Gate'.
FA: Benjamin Storey, 2009 | 22 | 40m, 2, 13 | |||
| 3 |
Dargorlad
Sustained, interesting, well protected but will need a bit more cleaning to become it's best (and that's going to happen?). About in the middle of the cliff at ground level is an attractive well featured slabby looking wall. Start on a low ledge at the base of the yellow face/slab. Wander a little taking the easiest line to a big ledge, rap off. FA: Josef Goding, 2008 | 18 | 25m | |||
| 4 |
Mount Doom
Good fun climbing - well protected At ground level near the left end of the cliff is an attractive crack. Straight up the crack (20m). Belay on ledge (as FA) or continue up steep crack and left along juggy traverse to rap station on ledge. *Rap is only about 20m so 1 rope is fine. Take standard trad gear up to #3 cam. FA: Josef Goding (P1) & Ingvar Lidman (P2), 2008 | 18 | 35m | |||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop | Area |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 18 | Dargorlad | 25m | 1.4. Mordor | |||
| Mount Doom | 35m | 1.4. Mordor | ||||
| 20 | All Around My Hat | 30m | 1.3. Nearby Crag | |||
| Close At Hand | 25m | 1.3. Nearby Crag | ||||
| 22 | SheLob's Lair | 40m, 2, 13 | 1.4. Mordor | |||
| 23 | Wendy | 15m | 1.1. Red Cave | |||
| Switchback | 35m | 1.2. Fawlty Towers | ||||
| 24 | ★★ | Duelling Imans | 40m | 1.3. Nearby Crag | ||
| 26 | ★ | Have a Nice Day | 10m | 1.1. Red Cave | ||
| 28 | The Black Gate | 37m, 15 | 1.4. Mordor | |||
| 29 | ★★★ | Welcome to Barbados | 50m | 1.1. Red Cave |