Vanya Wall Guide

A few metres right of "Watcha Gonna Call It" is a bottomless corner. A few metres right of Watcha Gonna Call It is a bottomless corner. Step off the block under the overhang to gain the corner and follow it.

This and next micro-route are behind the Lion's Head itself. From the top of Decapitating Tweety Birds walk back to the juggy wall immediately behind the back wall of the Lion's Head. On the right arete is a narrow strip of rock in an airy position. Climb the narrow band of smooth rock on the arete.

Sensational overhanging corner on left side of the wall. Exit right at the fianl roof, which can also be climbed direct.

Up to the ledge, step right around the arete, then up, tending slightly left toward the top.

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Masticating Mice" near the "arete".

The discontinuous line 2.5 metres left of Meow. Step off the block just to left of Meow, move diagonally left to the thin crack that finishes at a small flake. Up the line, over the flake and up.

Thin line just left of "Flea Bait".

The crack just left of "Here Kitty", starting on the right and joining the crack above the bush.

Not well-protected. Thin crack 1.5 metres left of the descent chimney.

Face 2 metres left of "Nice Puss", about 1 metre right of the descent chimney.

Not very well protected The wall and flake just left of Vanya Was A Black Feral Cat In Drag.

Good. Much better protection than Nice Puss Climb the wall midway between two flake lines to a crack at half-height. Finish up the crack.

Straight up to the flake, then up.

Start: Start at the left side of the "dished out" section of wall, directly below the flake in the middle of the wall.

Direct start to Decapitating Tweety Birds. Start 4 metres left of that climb. Up to and along the crack.

A bit sparse on gear in sections Start at a short groove in the right-hand face, 5 metres right of the right-hand flake. Climb the groove for 3 metres to a ledge. Step left and up the seam for 4 metres to a break. Follow break left for 4 metres to thin crack and up this, 1 metre right of flake line.

Start in same groove as "Decapitating Tweety Birds" and at the break continue directly up the wall.

Another variant. Start as for Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up groove to break. Go diagonally right to the obvious break in the wall and up.

An easy climb was done right of DTB in 1990 by Peter Allen and Kieran Sell. This may be the same climb. Start 3 metres right of Decapitating Tweety Birds. Up initial crack for 3 metres (use the tree or it's grade 16) then diagonally right to and up crack in upper wall.