Routes in Grampians for selected grade

Impressive roof climb in a truly spectacular setting.

Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinnacle.

Up corner to ledge. Step R then up bulges to rest. Step up to FH then monkey R on unexpected buckets. Turn the roof at scoop. Swing R to finish up white water wash then slightly L to RB lower off (note: near 50m lower off to top of pinnacle - tie rope end to belay FH).

Start 5m right of Smokin' Guns. Up cruxy wall past five FHs to rings.

Probably needs some bolts. Has only been top-roped. Wall right of Free To Good Home, keeping close to right arete.

Sustained and technical climbing on Arapiles type rock. Starts 3m left of Iron Lady.

Climb the creases past a FH to the DBB. Take small and medium wires and small cams.

A bouldery link-up of The Generator Route * 22 and The Extension Lead * 18. Climb The Generator Route and continue straight up the orange bulge past 2 FHs to join The Extension Lead at its (now) second FH on the arête. 8 FHs in total. (DRB anchor added as of March 2024 - ignore the fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon)

A clever link up that takes in the best parts of two great routes. Endurance climbing on great rock.

Start as for Careful With That Axe Liam.

A single rope will suffice if you take a few 60cm draws. Climb to the 4th FH, then traverse right 5m past FH to join Curiosity. Continue up past 2 more FHs to break. Back left for 2m then finish up past 3FHs as for Curiosity.

Right side of scoops, 6 RB's to DRB lower off.

Start: 4m right of Tarzan's Swing.

Short bouldery section past RB.

Leftmost thin diagonal, 6 metres left of Give Me AIDS

Start at orange corner 15 metres left of Bushwalking In The Gramps.

Corner to roof and move right to easy ground

Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off.

Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge.

Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.

Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs.

Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs.

A wild dyno! Slopey orange goodness from start to finish up the giant heucos. 5 FHs. Starts 2m left of Nicea.

Seamed corner right of "Me Old Mate Darth", then wall to overlap. Step right onto slabby dish and up.

An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret.

Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft.

tart up the flake and finish up the thin seam.

Somewhat contrived.

Bridge the cleft right of Bad Boys for a few moves then traverse left along the horizontal (peg runner) to finish as for Bad Boys.

Direct start to Snail and improves the line immensely. Takes 3 FH left off the ledge and up to join the line (wires and small cams required).

Not bad. Starts up the L side of the wall and climbs direct to cave / roof. Step R, then blast up wall to FH and desperate moves to gain final groove.

Steep and strenuous. Line in middle of wall past bulge, finishing up right-hand weakness.

Excellent and sustained. Start right of G.I. Joe at grey streaks. Up past BR to flat-top and PR (good idea to clip the bolt on Desert Storm from here). Continue up wall to horizontal break. Move left and pull through to next horizontal. Left again then up short crack, moving right and up to ledge.

A wild outing. Start at the bottom of the wall directly below roof. Up to hanging corner and up overhanging arete above (4 FH). Easier climbing after the ledge.

Grotty black central groove. A wire up high can also be useful.

In the middle of the cliff is a tree growing out of the cliff. Up past PR and double BR to easy ground.

Don't trust the pitons. Step out above the cave immediately right of Cloud Nine past PR and straight on up the wall to another horizontal (cloud nine). Up to another piton and left to good hold on the nose, then up.

Cloud Nine direct. Start as per Welsh Grabbit then go right and up and through overhang past piton. Then up wall to join Cloud Nine on ledge. Sustained, difficult climbing, and in it's current state (2021) this at least an R rated grade 26 if you're going ground up.

Spectacular with outrageous situations, and best done in one pitch. Equipped with a mix of rings and FHs, supplement with a full rack of cams.

Starts a few metres left of IHTR. Can also start up RR.

Pull onto shelf and traverse left to blocks. Up to stance below hanging jug (often sandy). Into shallow hanging corner, then continue up and right to overhang and a rest (original route belayed here). Make an exposed traverse leftwards, going straight up at incut jug to finish at lower-offs (27m to the ground).

An unlikely line that features a fierce crux at the end.

Start as for 'Begegnung'; at the bolt follow the horizontals rightwards (a bit up and down) for about ten meters to an obvious corner which you move up for a move or two, then step right again past another little corner onto a rest, before finishing easily to rap anchor.

The machine gun is beautiful. An excellent start leads to a finish where the crux seems to be avoiding the neighbouring routes.

The leftmost route on the wall starts from the ledge above the waterfall with a powerful undercut start. Climb past five FHs to reach the dyke, then head diagonally leftwards (ie climb above the dyke, but don't get drawn to the bolt above - that is for 'The Gloaming') past a couple of small cam placements to the anchor.

An alternative finish is to head straight up from the dyke (past a 0.4 camalot placement) to join the last 2 FH of 'The Gloaming'.

Starts in the middle of the wall off a big rock. Up past a FH, to another FH in the dyke, left to the next FH (still in the dyke), then move up and left past three more FHs and the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'.

A bit unlikely. Start at the same spot as Horizon, but blast straight up past three FHs and natural gear to anchor at top. Might be harder than 24 for shorties.

Might be the crack on the Arete - would be sensational except for the grade 30 move past the fixed pin. Perhaps 24 if if you pull on the pin?

Traverse left off Block at R end of Ramp, then overhang to a small ledge. Then straight up wall past a BR.

Start on low flat jug, move through crimps and large side pull to jugs and drop off.

3 metres up hill from Anteloped (past chimney) sit start with right hand on dish on face, and left in low finger lock. Make powerful moves into crack and finish on juggy slot.

Sit start left L hand crimp and R on side pull. Up through diagonal on opposing holds into large jug. Drop off.

Start on crimp rail, and head right to slopers and up and over big break.

Start matched on slopey rail, make tricky move to flat ledge and top out. A true one move wonder.

Let down your hair... But don't punt off the top! Climb on tall arête through jugs and seams. Make committing mantle over the lip.

5 metres left of City of Joy. Start off block, tricky moves left from undercut to a mantle and up thin layaway crack. 3 bolts and trad to DRB anchor.

Sport route with Hard first move. Start 5m left of Mothers Day project off Ledge. Mantle onto small ledge then up arete trending right, over small roof and up to Double bolt lower off.