The North Cliff Guide

Up wall on jugs past 1 bolt, 0.5-1 Friend in break, then up on thin moves past 2nd bolt. DRBB on top.

Straight up slab moving right to finish at anchors.

Layback, Stemming, a few finger locks and a fist jamb finished off with a cool view from the top. The corner crack system right of IHP. Good gear but a little damp deep in the crack.

Avoid the Red Light District by climbing the wall to the right on good edges and breaks. Cams in breaks or corner crack.

No chalk. No bolts. No pro. Or a few bad cams and one micro-nubbin if you're bold. Some hard and interesting moves at the bottom and above. Top rope anchor from tree 5m back.

Start: The arete 1m right of Healthy Habits.

Start as for GOG. Up to roof then left out and up the slab. Lots of good cam placements, and 2 small nuts needed

Starts 5m right of the corner crack in the centre of main wall. Start below small orange roof and follow the rings to the top. No lower-offs but DBB just back from edge (Large bolt heads only just fit standard brackets so take wires or belay off giant tree further back). Needs another ring or 2

Crack at the left of the obvious roof. Hard start then easier up wall following line of blind crack. Protect with 20-40mm cams in horizontal breaks to top, make sure you get one in at the roof of the cave.

Equalised belay from two small trees, block and single ring. Also temporary screw-in bolt further back from the top.

Start in the corner then traverse out under roof to lip.

Combination of jamming and jugs through the roof. Old-school hard-core coarse-grained rock needs more cleaning. DRBB on top right of crack.

Straightforward hand jam crack to start, then looks like horizontal finger-locking heaven on a sharply pointed stick followed by a sloping top-out. Invert feet at the lip for extra FA kudos.

Not very much to jam at all. Doable?

Might be possible to climb the lichenous wall using the thin roof crack for protection.

Something different Start in the corner to the left of KC. Move into horizontal crack and then head left following it around the corner and above the big roof and then head up to top once the crack runs out. Needs a clean and big gear.

The flared hand crack just left of "Baby's Crack". One serious jamb, then shared finish from the ledge with "Kindy Corner"

The finger crack at far right end of crag. A bit sandy, but not beyond redemption. Shared finish from the ledge with "Kindy Corner"

The corner ramp crack. Stay out of the left hand crack.

Line of bolts up bouldery arête right of the sloping corner crack.

The crack on the right of the big nose. Straight up the orange corner and crack above, then right out the keyhole between the two giant stones. Protect exit through chockstones with 50-70mm cam and extend runners below to reduce otherwise excessive rope drag.

Easily up twin cracks and exit via counter-intuitive move through twin chockstones directly above as for "Needs Nuts Not Bolts". Solid stoppers and cams all the way with a cowbell or large cam in the final split.