Routes as sport in Flange Buttress

Face/arete left of princess. Starts up a crack. Only to top half is bolted.

On the face to the right of Drama Queen.

Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23.

Climb the wall left of "Bert's Fear", starting at the base of the "Bert's Fear" chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport).

Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB.

Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.

1. 25m (22). Straight up the face just R of Fiddlesticks. A crimpy crux to get off the ground, then flow up the rest with pleasant moves.

2. 25m (25). Continue up the line of bolts to the anchors. Crux is just past the third bolt.

Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory.

Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay.

The second pitch was climbed at 27 by moving into Brown Madonna at 2/3 height. Nowadays rarely done as Pleasant Screams Direct is a significantly better option.

One of the best climbs on the pipes.

Climb Pleasant Screams to just below the midway anchor then follow the line of bolts to the top in one mega pitch.

Avoid moving into After Midnight and Brown Madonna, not as contrived as it sounds.

The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot to avoid a runout at about 3/4 height. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains