Routes as sport in Mount Wellington

The left of the classic Parkyn trilogy offers 15m of strenuous and technical laybacks to reach a welcome rest. The intimidating bulge above can then be climbed to the left, directly, or to the right. Good luck.

The centre line. A bouldery and strenuous start. Hope you can lock off and gaston. Try to avoid using the corner crack to the right of the initial wall (or take a 22 grade if you do). After the initial wall, either finish at the anchors of 'The Truth' or continue up the interesting but slightly lichenous wall above to the top of the buttress.

A cop out to avoid the crux of The Way. But still good climbing.

Our Lord described himself as 'The Truth, The Way and The Life'. The Parkyn trilogy features 'The Truth, The Way, and The Light'. It is unclear if Roger has just got the quote wrong, or if he is proclaiming himself as our new saviour. Either way, this punchy number will raise your spirits.

Sustained pitch with some excellent moves.

Excellent face climbing. Access by climbing Well Actually.

Access pitch for Hold That Thought

Bolted arete up and right from Cape Diem. DBB.

Wall climbing immediatly left of Sun Stealer.

Up black streak immediatly left of 19 Shades. Shares last bolt and DBB with that route.

Located on small buttress next to track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress, at the base of Avalanche Couloir. Climb the right side of short black streaked wall to DBB.

2m R of '19 Shades of Grey.' Through the roofs. Head left under the roof and crank up the arete, to skip the broken hold crux

A direct variant to Whatever. Start as for that route, but after the roof continue direct staying left of the arete, eventually finishing up the last couple of bolts of Whatever.

Starts at the highest point of the gully, climbing to the base of the climb is a bit precarious. Face climbing to the roof, then move right with great technical climbing up the arete using oddly angled flakes.

The second pitch is a Pipes classic. Steep, featured, and pumpy.

1. 15m (18) 5 bolts. Follow U bolts to large sloping ledge and DBB. Likely a sandbag at 18, but interesting and well bolted.

2. 15m (22) 7 bolts. The main attraction. Follow the black streak and gently overhanging arete. Pumpy, safe, and technically interesting.

There is a lower-off at the top of the 2nd pitch. With a 60m rope and care, the belayer can lower the climber to the ground, then abseil to the ground using the climber as a counterweight.

Line of bolts right of Heat Pump. Climb P1 of Heat Pump to access ledge. Follow the corner to a ledge, then continue up face and arete on some sharp holds

The leftmost climb, short and sweet with steep climbing on good rock. Walk back after top out to rap station.

Bolted line 3m right of Jon's Crack. Fun climbing on solid rock. Move straight up the rounded arete to DBB found 2m back from climb. DBB is up quite high on uneven ground, take care.

Bolted line, close to the "waterfall". Shares DBB with Sleeping Dogs.

On the right hand side of the gully. Great moves with a spicy crux.

No natural gear required. Access from the top of the mountain is probably easiest.

1. 20m 25 Start 5m up the gully left of Cornered and Wootang, with belay bolts on left. Climb the face and arête to a ledge and DBB (as for Cornered).

2. 25m 19 Step right from the belay and ascend the blocky corner/arête system past many FH and the final U-bolt of Wootang. Either belay at the Wootang DBB and descend by abseil from here, or continue past another FH to the ledge above with the top DBB.

A dedication to Lois Scarr. Start on the right-hand side of the wide face above the ledge at a DBB. Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a DBB on the ledge at 35m. A short pitch (18) past one FH provides access to the top DBB if required. A. Williams, Oct 2002.

The line of bolts to the left of The Colour of Magic. Scramble up the large corner then step right to gain the second bolt. Climb the shallow corner then move right into the thin layaway seam, following this to tricky topout.

The bolted line 3m to the right of Lone Stranger p1.

1. 21m 18 9Þ

2. 35m 24 10Þ

Three pitch sport route starting 10m up the ramp from BM.

1. 20 - bouldery start which eases off to grade 18/19 climbing to DBB.

2. 21 - Up turrent, then delicatly back left passing 7 bolts to DBB.

3. 21/22 - Up black streak left of the belay, passing 9 bolts, to another DBB.

Precarious and pumpy climbing. Start on the ledge as for Skyfall (can be accessed via the short bolted wall, or by scrambling up the vegetated corner to gain right side of ledge). Climb several metres right of Skyfall, blasting up up the seam and through the large roof passing the DBB of Solace to the rest ledge. From the ledge, clip the bolt up and left on the hanging arete, then commit to moving up and left (crux) above the void. Balance up arete to a DBB

as for QoS; stop at DBB after roof

Climbs a pillar located about 10m right of where the access path to Blue Meridian turns steeply left. Fully bolted, however a finger sized cam may help add confidence for the slopey top-out.

Below Battle Cruiser ledge. Bolted route slightly uphill left & around the corner from "The Three Stooges."

Obvious bolted face below Battle Cruiser ledge, located up side track between Great Tier & Central Buttress access. Mantle near top & across some loose ground to rap station.

20m R of The Three Stooges up secondary track. Tricky start then up arete.

The small buttress to the left of the Linda chimney, capped by overhangs. Belay at far left end of Battlecruiser Ledge. Step left across Linda chimney and follow 6 U bolts up wall and blind corner capped by overhangs to double U belay on small ledge above.

The line up the face and arête between Faust and Spartan Ethics. There is a thin and balancy crux between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, and another tricky move at the roof, the rest is about 20.

Steep start then keep following the U's

The line of bolts just right of Acid Test. Take a few mid-size cams for 15m of easy scrambling at the top of the third pitch to get to the start of the final pitch. All belays are spacious ledges with DBBs.

1. 18m 21 Straight up the face. Cruxy.

2. 28m 21 Step right off ledge and follow black streak up face, eventually moving to left side of pillar.

3. 32m 20 Climb up arete to large ledge, ignore DBB for Acid Test (on left) and continue scrambling for a further 15m to base of bolted arete.

4. 25m 21 Straight up the arete.

The line of FH right of Heat. Nice, pumpy climbing on some sharp rock.

The line of bolts 5m left of Rememberance and Roast Chicken

Well conceived line up a sharp arete.

1. 15m (21). Steep climbing past 7 bolts to DBB.

2. 30m (21). Up, then tricky move left to gain sharp arete. Focus, slapping, and footwork will see you at the DBB at the top of this excellent pitch. 13 bolts.

A fun little sport climb starting 5m R of Remembrance and climbing to the same anchor. Climb up and into shallow R facing corner, continue up to steep bulge. Jugs lead to good side-pulls on the face above. Step back L to lower-off.

Trickier if you are short. However is defo 25.

Up manky chimney then orange face Access left of Drama Queen and Princess on flange buttress

Classy face climbing on the lowest tier of Circus Wall. Can be accessed by climbing the first 3 pitches of Heat and then scrambling across scrubby ledge.

Nice arete with the crux at the top

Contrived but good!

Face/arete left of princess. Starts up a crack. Only to top half is bolted.

On the face to the right of Drama Queen.

Contentious, original done as a trad route the unknowingly bolted a week later. Climbs the line left of the bolts, it is possible to go right of the bolt at the roof at grade 23.

Climb the wall left of "Bert's Fear", starting at the base of the "Bert's Fear" chimney. There is thin crux at the second U and then a pumpy hike to the top (all sport).

Mostly sport route up the prominent arete left of Fiddlesticks. Start at the base of Fiddlesticks, and move left to arete (wire and small cam) to gain line of u-bolts. Balancy arete climbing on great rock. You'll probably place another wire & small cam up high before gaining a DBB.

Best done as one pitch however, the easier first pitch to this ultra classic is an excellent route in its own right.

1. 25m (22). Straight up the face just R of Fiddlesticks. A crimpy crux to get off the ground, then flow up the rest with pleasant moves.

2. 25m (25). Continue up the line of bolts to the anchors. Crux is just past the third bolt.

Absolute classic. Up the arête to the left of Brown Madonna. Consistent, exposed, technical moves. Double ropes can reduce drag, but aren't mandatory.

Start at the bottom of the face moving towards the R arête after 10 m and back L to a hanging belay.

The second pitch was climbed at 27 by moving into Brown Madonna at 2/3 height. Nowadays rarely done as Pleasant Screams Direct is a significantly better option.

One of the best climbs on the pipes.

Climb Pleasant Screams to just below the midway anchor then follow the line of bolts to the top in one mega pitch.

Avoid moving into After Midnight and Brown Madonna, not as contrived as it sounds.

The tall overhanging column to the right of Brown Madonna, 60m single pitch route, sustained arete climbing as good as it gets. Take a no.1 camalot to avoid a runout at about 3/4 height. 19 quickdraws plus rap chains

1. 35m (22) 15 U's.

2. 20m (24) 7 U's. Crux after 4th bolt.

1 30m 25, 20 bolts 2 20m 24, 15 bolts

Two pitch extension of 'Tularaemia' adds 30m of additional climbing and increases the grade. 3 15m 27, 8 bolts 4 15m 28, 8 bolts

Probably the hardest route on the Pipes and a magnificent line, taking the arête and wall to the R of of Icarus.

Access via a 30m abseil from rap station above the slab that caps Battlements Column, to the Middle Battlement (top of pitch 2 of Battlements).

A reachy and powerful boulder problem at half-height offers some amazing moves in an outrageous position. A finger-sized cam can be handy to protect the post crux section.

1. 33m 23 Follow Us up nose and arete to ledge

2. 15m 23 Continue up arete to another ledge

A long and sustained pitch of face climbing on good rock. One of the better sports routes at the grade in southern Tasmania.

The left of the two short sport routes between DN and PS.

Technical and interesting climbing up the short wall left of PS.

More fine dolerite face climbing 15m right of Dark Nebula

Two pitch bolted arete right of Sky Rocket. Final pitch takes a few pieces of gear.

1. 15m (24) Climb the line until face with fused groove. Up the groove and then out left to jug (crux). Continue right and up to DBB.

2. 35m (23) Up the arete to DBB. Few pieces of gear at the end of the pitch.

The awkward face and crack facing Albert's Tomb.

Climbs the arête left of Slap Dancer. Reach dependant compression moves to barn door hell.

Brilliant!

Some of the best moves on the pipes. The two north facing arêtes of Albert's Tomb.

Tricky mantle to fridge hugging finish.

The bolted blunt arête starting just right of Completion Backwards Principle.

Wanders back and forth via. 3 distinct boulder problems.

Possibly 28.

Great series of sustained moves up the short bolted arete to DBB.

The line of bolts on the R side of the chasm. Brilliant steep bouldery moves lead to easier arete climbing before joining Vanity.

All bolts apart from an optional 0.3 cam on the face traverse of Vanity at mid height.

Intricate route finding up the next pillar right of Boy's Games to DBB (shared with Climbing Edge Memorial Climb). A difficult onsight.

Mixed Route

The arête right of CEMC. The first section can be climbed on either side of the arête, leading to a good rest before the steep finish. The crux is passing the last bolt.

Climb the super thin crack, passing a small overlap at the bottom. No loweroffs so take a biner for the last bolt if there's not one already there.

Great climb on a large block with ringbolts visible from Johnstone's Knob. 4 BRs plus rap station. G. Phillips, Oct. 1995.

Great sport climbing on the Hobart side of Johnstones Knob involving both aretes and passing a knife blade to a ledge with rap anchor. Protected by 3 carrots.

The obvious arête right of Cruise Air and left of Lactos.

Many holds have broken, originally 29, possibly now in the region of grim 30/31.