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Description
Mt Wellington / kunanyi, the grand old lady of Tasmanian climbing. A series of buttresses and tiers that bring grown men to tears and where climbers make pacts with God, Neon or otherwise. There is a lot of history to this crag, listed in successive guidebooks, magazine articles and the web. When using guidebooks, past or present, read between the lines. Any route description which says "thought provoking," "bold" or "great if you're a percussionist" has a high chance of excitement.
The Mountain is the best of Australian suburban crags. It has an alpine flavour and with huge exposure – sitting on a lonely belay ledge, 1400m above Hobart, is cathartic. The rock, dolerite, has been lifted by volcanic processes, frozen by snow and baked by sun. It is friable, it is not uncommon to hear a hollow sound come from under your desperate paws. Visitors tend to stick to the classics because most of the bad stuff has been pulled off by some poor sod before you.
Many start at the Northern Buttress, others head to the Fiddlesticks or Moonraker for their multi-pitch fix, some seek out forgotten routes with rusted pitons and flaring cracks. The tiers through the middle have varied climbing on tall buttresses. Whatever draws you here, be sure to bring a helmet, a fleece, and your courage.
Arrive early on a sunny day as the climber’s carpark only fits about five vehicles - park to maximise this. Take care climbing in early spring as the snow melt and freezing over winter will loosen rock. Be prepared for all weather at any time. Most importantly, enjoy the Pipes experience – it's unique.
Access issues inherited from Tasmania
Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!
http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania
Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website
Approach
Situated a 15 minute drive above Hobart.
Ethic
Crag Stewards
Rock climbers please contact the Crag Steward (kunyani@climbersclubtas.org.au) if you have any queries or concerns regarding social or environmental impacts of rock climbing at this crag.
Do not email regarding general travel, seasonal advice, or lost property - this is not the Steward’s role. If you have important safety information to communicate (e.g. risks due to recent and large rock falls) please also consider updates on thesarvo forum, Facebook group and/or online guidebooks as appropriate. Please copy in cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you feel you have a high-level concern which may imminently impact the crag or climbing community.
Non-climbers, other users, land managers: please also contact cct@climbersclubtas.org.au if you have important climbing related queries at this location.
Other
• The operation and use of drones by park visitors on reserved land including national parks is not permitted
• Peregrine Falcons nest from July - December each year. It’s important that climbers don’t climb near active nests during this period. Known sites (non exhaustive) are: Sand River (Far East, The Panopticon), Bare Rock (R of the Boneyard, L of Bisso of Orange), Rocky Cape, Pubic Wall/Duck Reach, Hillwood, Gunners Quoin, Lowdina.
• Please note that Tasmania has notoriously patchy phone reception for particular service providers. Telstra is the most reliable. An emergency Personal Locator Beacon or similar is recommended kit when climbing in remote locations.
• For more information - follow the link below for some local tips + tricks on how to better reduce your impact during your next Tassie climbing holiday https://www.cragcaretasmania.org.au/learn
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): Gerry Narkowicz
Date: 2021
ISBN: 9780646841946
Cracks, sea stacks, big walls, remote exotic locations, volcanic columns, no crowds and your choice of the predominant dolerite, some quartzite and a little sandstone to remind you of the mainland. Many a wilderness climbing experience can be had within a 2hr car trip from the main centers. By Gerry Narkowicz. This guide features 1280 routes.
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