Routes as trad in Mt Gibraltar

A short but sweet little splitter at the left side of the 14 wall, then follow the ramp and flake to the top. Tree & gear belay.

Obvious from the descent gully, this was surely not missed by earlier climbers, but was never described.

Up crack and then step left on to blocks. Finish at tree.

Thin crack on left wall of main corner.

Up corner past 2 carrots to pod in corner, and up to rap station.

Climbs up and left through the corner above the 1st belay on Big Bird.

1. 15m (17) Climb the first pitch of Big Bird.

2. ?m (21) Climbs from the 1st belay on Big Bird straight up through corner system past two bolts. Belay on cams below the roof.

3. ?m (18) Out right escaping the roof on the obvious finger crack flake. Pull the lip and head right to belay on the slab as for Big Bird.

4. 15m (19) Climbs the 'beak' direct. head down onto the exposed fridge slab and then up onto the beak. Belay as for Big Bird. Two fixed hangers, then rings as for Big Bird.

Start approx 30m right of Slow Twitch, around corner. Short, curving corner.

Start 15m right of Offal Dredger, 6m right of Big Bird. Climb rib right of obvious corner.

1. Up to corner and belay at ledge (gear).

2. Right and around arete, up slab. At 4th bolt head up right to ridge, and back left to tree.

3. Up cracks to easy ground.

Offwidth corner crack about 50m right of Access Route, 20m R of big choss gully, and 50m left of base of Descent Ramp.

1. 20m Up crack past bush to poor belay.

2. 30m Up slaby seam with poor protection to poor belay under boulder. Scary solo off, or stay roped up!

Nice corner 10m R of Suicidal Dreams. Belay at rings on right (belay 2 of The very Easy Route). Done before, thought to be RRD for many years.

About 20m right of Suicidal Dreams, groove 8m left of gripping Yarn. Marked with faint yellow paint.

1. 30m Up crack past blackberries to ring belay as for The Very Easy Route

2. 30m Step left and up cracks then left to belay as for Gripping Yarn P2.

1. 50m (16) From the Maur i Rompa belay bolt at the left end of the ledge, follow the seam leftwards, 2m past Gripping Yarn and up past a carrot. Then diag L to jug and around arete to good crack (RRP). Follow this to Break then follow easy seam with no gear for 10m and leftwards to GY Belay#2.

2. 30m (14) finish up GY

Nice climbing up an old fashion slab with good but sparse gear, Climb up chimney about 6m R of Gripping Yarn (sling tree), step R and onto slab and easily straight up black streak to diagonal at 15m, good wires. Easy runout up black streak to flake, step left (good baby cams now that the paper flakes have been removed) finishing up a flared seam. There are 3 good small wire placements , take a nut tool as the crack catches bit of dirt (and reading glasses if you're old) Finishes at the top of the green rope in the Access Ramp. Technically about 16, and would have been graded 17 if it was in Booroomba

Original route in the area, superseded by The Mittagong Two Step. After the 3rd BR go up the easy corner

1. 15m (17) 3 x FH to vertical hand/feet crack. Cams #1-3 then to DFH belay. The money pitch. Fun feature climbing up to the crack where your cams come into play. What's your crack plan? Lay back or jam?