Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
23 |
★★ Pitch Blank
- with
Heath Black
1
23
25m
2
15m
3
15m
| 55m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 24th Jul 2022 | ||||
Pitch 1 only -though I kinda climbed some of the Project as well (it's a confusing bit of wall, here). Probably about gr23 the way I climbed it, though I would describe it as the most logical line. Old school, boulder-problems between mantles and ledges, with some huuuge runouts. Completely dry despite all the crazy rain.
|
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29 |
★★★ Luminous Blue
- with
lee cossey
| 290m, 99 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 30th Aug 2020 | ||||
Awesome day
Will never forget
18 degrees no hotter
Strong NW didn’t really effect
16 draws 5 extended
P3 favourite pitch
P6 was engaging 😂
12hrs car to car, taking it easy, no torches!!
|
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23 |
★★★ Marxism (Marxism P1)
- with
Jess C
1
23
25m
| 25m, 22 | Blue Mountains | Sat 15th Oct 2022 | |||||
P1 only. Highly enjoyable.
|
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24 |
★★★ Asteroids
1
220+
2
15
3
20
4
24
5
20
6
23
| 220m | Bungonia Gorge | Sun 12th Aug 2018 | |||||
Rapped in from the top of Air Malta to do the easier pitches.
|
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26 |
★★★ Asteroids
- with
Dave Cook
| 180m | Bungonia Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 13th Sep 2020 | ||||
Nearly a dream send but it was not to be. After sitting below the crux pitch for quite some time as it rained and others bailed we decided we should at least have a crack at the steepness. And I somehow found myself all the way up there with the last bolt at my chest unable to clip it, looking around as rain hit my face, grabbing desperately at a horrid collection of damp non-holds one move away from the anchor ledge. Alas I finally succumbed to the pump, peeled backwards, and took quite the whip. I pulled back on, found the hold I had missed, slapped some chalk on it and that was that. In some ways I lament the onsight that could have been, but I'm also happy knowing that I fully emptied the tank and had absolutely nothing left to give, I could barely pull up the rope afterwards. Pretty rad either way. I lowered down, Dave flashed it, the absolute madman!! and we decided to bail from the rain upwards rather than to the ground for the sun had come out to celebrate Dave's glorious sendage. I jumarred up on a micro traxion and we were going to finish up Air Malta's final pitch but Dave was on his typical Bungonia crushing rampage and as the sun now shone and the sending breeze picked up it seemed only fitting to continue our quest despite losing two hours of day light. Some mild faff ensued including me getting hit by a largish rock but being miraculously totally fine, and Dave getting lost on the #DawnWallDownClimb but we managed and I only had to climb one pitch in the dark. The pitches that followed after the crux I rate accordingly: Shit, unpleasant, pleasant, inoffensive, good. All up a four star day on two star routes.
|
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26 |
★★★ Big Nose
- with
Wojjy
2
lead by
Wojjy
3
lead by
Blueoffset4lyf
4
lead by
Wojjy
5
lead by
Blueoffset4lyf
6
lead by
Wojjy
7
lead by
Blueoffset4lyf
8
lead by
Blueoffset4lyf
| 250m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Jan 2022 | ||||
luke broke a footer on the crux pitch otherwise would defo have onsighted it
i ripped off a massive piece of ironstone and had a 10m fall going up the corner on the traverse/money pitch awesome day out |
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25 |
★★★ Samarkand
- with
Paul Frothy Thomson
| 150m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 24th Feb 2018 | ||||
The best multi I have ever done and one that keeps with my trend of achieving climbing 'firsts' in intimidating locations. I onsighted the first pitch which was rather gripping but probably quite easy at the grade, giving me my first Trad 23 and then, after belaying Paul's ultra solid send, almost almost scraped the crux pitch clean on second. I slipped off essentially the last move of the crux right at the end of the pitch despite feeling quite solid. After one false start I pulled on and mantled up to the belay. This pitch is all time!! featuring unlikely steep climbing at about grade 22 all the way until the intimidating and awesome final crux sequence; The best!! I then led and onsighted the third pitch (having told Paul I wanted to lead the layback that Ben Cossey is climbing in the TNF ad in the guidebook), a significantly harder 23 than the first pitch but ultra rad and super demanding for the section of real climbing before it turns into a ramble to the belay. At this point my head was pretty gone and I was feeling exhausted so Paul said he was happy to lead the last two pitches, an offer I gratefully accepted and I managed both of these clean on second with a major fight to keep it together on the final pitch as my lack of day-endurance took its toll and I found myself pumped stupid.
All up it is probably one of the best days of climbing to be had in the Bluies and I would highly recommend it to anyone who can muster the psych!!! Get on it! |
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25 |
★★ Let Freedom Ring
3
22
14m
4
24
32m
5
20
6
25
| 46m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 4th Apr 2018 | ||||
Awesome new multipitch. P3-P5 only. Stella rock and awesome exposure. P4 is super sustained, rad moves. Stoked to onsight the P5 pitch.
|
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25 |
★★★ The Regular Route
- with
Pat
1
23
190m
lead by
Pat
3
24
lead by
Pat
5
24
lead by
Pat
7
23
lead by
Pat
| 190m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 21st May 2018 | ||||
Unbelievable!! A bit of a dream route ever since I first saw it in the 2015 guide and great to squeeze it in on my last day as a child. Pitch one was pretty cool with a couple of sequences of varying desperation depending on your height but it went down pretty quick. Pitch two was absolutely mega and one of the coolest pitches I've done. I took one proper fall and had two or three sits. I really enjoyed the bolting on this pitch generally. It was intimidating and committing but never actually scary and all together just a very fulfilling experience to get through each sequence and clip the next bolt. There were however two bolts that I struggled to clip from the presumably intended stances, but I think this is just because I'm very short and not because they are objectively poorly placed. A panic draw would probably alleviate this for any other small would be ascentionists and I would perhaps recommend it as it was enough of an issue that it may have cost me an onsight had that been on the cards. Pitch three was really cool but the bolting here was a tad scary for Pat I think and possibly a bit dangerous around the arete with weird rope-cutting-ledge-hitting fall potential. The climbing however with the newly scrubbed corner is definitely not hard at the grade though, especially if you have a bit of areting experience to get through the first bit. Really cool. Pitch four was easy, 18 at Piddo, and really fun if you love a layback as much as I do. The rock isn't quite as mega though. Pitch five was also great on rad rock. Again not too hard at the grade but if you are a mortal you are probably starting to feel tired at this stage and so the pump definitely chases you. Pitch six saw my wheels fall off a little bit as I just bungled a sequence and became immediately mega pumped and took a fairly big whip way up in the sky. Nice climbing in great position but not too special. Pitch seven is rad too on great rock. Super easy but I was absolutely shattered and really had to keep it together to stay on and get to the top. What a sweet day!!!
|
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25 | ★★★ Air Malta | 240m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Wed 8th Aug 2018 | ||||
Pitch 4 is a heap of fun! Can't wait to get back on this.
|
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25 | ★★★ Jump Master | 220m, 60 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 8th Aug 2018 | ||||
So good! Found pitch 1 hard.. maybe cold? Pitch 2 okay, Pitch 3 awesome, Pitch 4 glad it wasn't my lead, Pitch 5 Amazing, really want to go back for this one!, Pitch 6 Found this hard for 25?
|
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25 |
★★★ Air Malta
1
23
240m
2
21
3
22
4
25
5
23
6
22
| 240m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Aug 2018 | ||||
Great route!
|
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25 |
★★★ Soul Catcher
- with
Will Vidler
1
20
20m
2
25
40m
| 60m, 10 | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Sun 29th Jul 2018 | ||||
Onsight P1. Interesting climbing, but consists of actual disintegrating sand-choss for much of it.
Linked into P2 to try and climb it as a giant singlepitch, before getting scared of the rope grinding on the choss below and the alpine winds got the better of me. Reversed the crux and backjumped to the belay. Might be okay, but requires bolt plates, and probably a 0.5, 0.75 and 1 BD Cam to make it comfortable. |
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25 |
★★★ The Regular Route
1
23
20m
2
25
30m
3
24
20m
4
21
20m
5
24
30m
6
22
30m
7
23
40m
| 190m | Blue Mountains | Wed 27th Feb 2019 | |||||
Pitch 1: Makes you work straight off the deck!
Pitch 2: Tom had a jazz first but couldn't find a beta through one of the upper cruxes. I hopped on, slipped off the start, lowered, then RP'd past the upper crux only to slip off on the slab! Next time
Pitch 3: A heady lead by Tom, feels pretty intimidating even on the follow.
Pitch 4: Great, airy jug-hauling
Pitch 5: Arete slapping good times, great little power-balance climb
Pitch 6: Amazing exposure, stepping up onto the high arete is super rad! Lost in space.
Pitch 7: A dance up some great rock, 3 feet for one hand!
|
|||||||||
25 A0 |
★★ Slackbladder
1
21
15m
2
25 A0
17m
3
25 A0
29m
4
23
25m
5
23
6
22
7
22
8
24
9
| 86m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Wed 20th Feb 2019 | ||||
25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Peter
1
23
30
lead by
Peter
2
21
20
3
22
60
4
25
30
5
23
20
6
22
60
| 220m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | Sun 31st May 2020 | |||||
25 | ★★★ Air Malta - with Roman | 240m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 30th May 2020 | ||||
25 |
★★★ The Regular Route
- with
Lachlan Anderson, Dave Cook, simo
1
25
190m
2
3
4
5
6
7
| 190m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 9th Jul 2020 | ||||
What the fuck P3? 1 word panic
|
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25 |
★★ Blue Ruin
- with
Peter
1
22
40m
2
25
40m
3
21
30m
4
18
30m
5
23
45m
6
10
10m
| 200m | Blue Mountains | Tue 6th Oct 2020 | |||||
P2 crux was fiesty! Managed to do the crux 2nd go then onsight to the anchors, the top half of p2 was some damn amazing climbing! worth it just for that section. The 23 was a monster crimper pitch.. Felt it's tricky to onsight in the crux section cos of a hard to spot hold, a great 45m crimp fest. (p3 tops out at lunch ledge, can do exposed crawl to rap area-stashed lunch)
|
|||||||||
25 |
★★★ Samarkand
- with
Eugene Mak
1
25
150m
2
3
4
5
| 150m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Nov 2020 | ||||
So close to the onsight!!!! Tried to straight-in jam the .75 crux rather than doing 3 layback moves to the fingerlock 🤷♂️ Oh well. Should go with the right beta next time.
Anyway. Great climb. Not too hard for the grade. Excellent locations. Listed gear beta is spot on. Definitely don't need the #4 though. |
|||||||||
25 |
★★★ Samarkand
- with
Ben Taylor
| 150m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Nov 2020 | ||||
The start of the 25 pitch was so difficult for me. I eventually figured out a way after sitting on the bolt, back and fourth.
I was so exhausted after all this I ended up sitting on gear and pulling on gear several more times throughout the rest of the pitch.
Happy I was able to climb all the other pitches clean. |
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25 |
★★★ Echo Crack
- with
Dave Cook
1
13
2
18
3
25
4
22
| 190m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 1st Dec 2020 | ||||
What a epic climb loved the jamming on the corner all time good times the whole way up, lead 2nd & 4th
Got a take making the transition from the boulder problem to the crack 3rd pitch was tricky. All clean to the top after and stoked to onsight the last pitch Stoked on such an epic day out |
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25 |
★★★ Samarkand
1
23
15m
2
25
35m
3
23
20m
4
22
35m
5
22
25m
6
22
20m
| 150m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th Jan 2021 | ||||
Outstanding climbing on every pitch
|
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25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Oct 2019 | ||||
First time in the gorge. Got too excited to climb the crux pitch and hardly waited after the 60m pitch 3 . Results as expected.
|
|||||||||
25 |
★★★ The Bridge to Total Freedom
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
22
20m
2
23
35m
3
19
20m
4
22
28m
5
24
35m
6
22
25m
7
25
30m
| 190m, 48 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Oct 2020 | ||||
I can't wait to do this again. We climbed it the day after Evolution, I spent the day falling and jugging my way up. The features and exposure on the crux pitch are amazing.
|
|||||||||
25 |
★★★ Jump Master
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
19
15m
2
21
40m
3
22
45m
4
22
50m
5
23
20m
6
25
30m
| 200m, 60 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 4th Apr 2021 | ||||
17 |
★ Thunderstruck
- with
felixthecat
| 20m, 17 | Blue Mountains | Mon 3rd May 2021 | |||||
25 |
★★ A Date with Density
- with
Will Vidler, Lewis, Liz Chong
| 190m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Tue 29th Jun 2021 | ||||
A great day out heckling and climbing. Unfortunately underwhelming climbing mostly on grey, dirty rock (probably from recent rains). The second pitch was by far the highlight and was super awesome!
|
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25 |
★★★ Air Malta
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
7
| 220m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 13th Sep 2021 | ||||
25 |
★★★ Samarkand
- with
Dave Cook
1
23
15m
2
25
35m
3
23
20m
4
22
35m
| 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Thu 13th Jan 2022 | ||||
Wow - lost for words really, life changing day what an incredible adventure. Strong friendship! Truly looking forward to the next time, albeit the thunder storm
|
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23 |
★★★ Microdermabrasia
- with
Coedie
1
23
30m
| 30m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Feb 2022 | ||||
Pitch 1 only, started on first couple of bolt on reigning steel to take what looked like the obvious line to the striking feature (the crag disagrees), it'll be cool coming back to try the rest!
|
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25 | ★★★ Samarkand - with fell | 130m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th May 2022 | ||||
Need to work my thin hand jams for the p2 crux. Got too pumped and took the whip. Otherwise all other pitches went free! Will come back next trip for the all free ascent. Awesome exposure and good placements! Was sitting bricks walking up to the route but the nerves died as we got higher. The belay jacket was a necessity as temps were in the low single digits with blasting wind, such an awesome adventure that I'll remember for a very long time.
|
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25 |
★★★ The Prozac Years
- with
David Dearnley
1
24
40m
2
25
7m
3
20
20m
| 67m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 28th May 2022 | ||||
What a journey! I've wanted to do this for years (we've all seen that photo of Greg Child on the roof cut-loose and mantle), especially because I've never heard of anyone ever doing it (even asking many of the local legends). If it ever gets rebolted and a bit of TLC, this would be a genuine multipitch classic!
I linked P1 and P2 into a giant 40m Onsight, then set up an improvised belay just below the roof (using 2 bolts and a #1 cam) so I could reduce the roof and mantle to a manageable boulder problem. These pitches are beautiful, sustained face climbing on great rock. P2 in particular follows a super-cool vague-flake thing with tricky feet, and finishes with an old-school "padding" traverse. Ticking the roof and mantle took me a bunch of shots (initially cause I was using totally wack beta) and at one point involved such a massive sideways fall that I broke a biner. Once I sorted my beta and rested up, it went down surprisingly easy. I'd probably call the mantle a V3? Pitch three is quite easy, but has a proper gripping traverse at the grade. I'm glad I didn't fall off. |
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25 |
★★★ Air Malta
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 14th Jun 2022 | ||||
Such an epic adventure. Last time I came to Bungonia I wasn't ready at all which resulted in a gnarly groundfall. This felt completely different, I was stoked with how I was climbing and my headspace. I came off on the final driveby of the 25. I'm pretty satisfied and keen to come back and step it up a notch. Jumping off the tufa was one of the coolest moves I've ever pulled.
|
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25 |
★ Viva La Vioxx
- with
Will Vidler
1
25
25m
2
22
25m
3
| 50m | Blue Mountains | ★ Good | Wed 13th Jul 2022 | ||||
Linked Pitches 1 and 2 cause I couldn't be bothered to rebelay... Not recommended (the rope drag was terrible!). P1 would be about gr21, but for a 2m V4/V5 sequence. I wouldn't say I worked out the crux in question, but I also didn't really try. Fun enough, but not one of the better aretes here. P2 had some cool climbing at the start, but was crazy runout (6 bolts in 25m!) I don't think I'll be back.
|
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25 |
★★★ The Bridge to Total Freedom
- with
Heath Black
1
22
20
Amazing flake feature into total desparation on the delicate lichenous slab above.
2
23
35
Very cool slabbing with a hard crux high step.
3
19
20
Absorbing adventure up incipient cracks in the slab.
4
22
28
5
24
35
Awesome fun start section, then cool pockety climbing into a crux sequence towards the end. Fell at crux and had a rest on the #3 camalot above. Feet were sooo sore at the end of this pitch.
6
22
25
Really good. Best approached as an Araps style trad pitch with a couple of bonus bolts thrown in. Had to sit on a piece to retrive a well overcammed camalot.
7
25
30
Gob smacking position and stellar climbing up the tufa system. Stuck the span into the big grey tufa onsight, then it became a fine A0 ascent from there. | 190m, 48 | Bungonia Gorge | Fri 25th Nov 2022 | |||||
A spectacular day out. An absolutely brilliant route blasting directly up the wall.
|
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25 |
★★★ Microdermabrasia
1
23
30m
2
25
25m
3
24
30m
| 85m | Blue Mountains | Fri 9th Dec 2022 | |||||
25 |
★★ Let Freedom Ring
1
21
17m
2
25
17m
3
22
14m
4
24
32m
5
20
18m
6
25
30m
| 130m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Fri 30th Dec 2022 | ||||
Many cool moves and pitches in one of the coolest positions in the mountains. Got pumped and stumped at the top of pitch 2 but the rest came together nicely.
|
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24 ~24 |
★★ Merl
- with
Heath Black
1
24
In hindsight, I had no chance of onsighting this. The crux is not obvious at all, and the carrots sure as hell don't point the way -Without chalk or wear, I can't imagine anyone realistically onsighting it. A pleasant start on orange rock, leads to a gnarly (but rad) arete sequence with some very cool pockets.
2
24
Proper stoked to onsight this. Super duper sustained, incredibly hard to read, spaced and kinda scary carrots, untrafficked, and draining. Lots of gritstone-esque climbing. I linked this into the bottom pitch for a 45m monster -though drag at the top was terrible.
3
21
The start is funky and kinda hard, and even the traverse is entertaining, but the headwall above is -at present- almost obligatory death with the crazy runouts, and the vegetated mossy topout. This pitch is not recommended. | 70m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Jan 2023 | ||||
Wild! Actually thought we were climbing a totally different route... it seemed kinda hard (considering we were expecting gr23 ).
Totally worthwile, and very much "of the era". Old school, weird bits of necessary gear, antique bash-in carrots in hideous locations... but still awesome. Linked the first 2 pitches together. |
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25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Jett Legge
1
23
30m
2
21
20m
3
22
60m
4
25
30m
5
23
20m
6
22
60m
| 220m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | Sun 7th May 2023 | |||||
Awesome day out, keen to come back and have a crack at the send.
|
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25 |
★★★ Air Malta
- with
Liv
1
23
30m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
Pretty on straight off the deck, was glad to have the first bolt stick clipped (a good stick available on the ledge). Up and down-climbed the mantle crux a couple of times before finding a comfy way through.
2
21
20m
lead by
Liv
Got good once it steepened.
3
22
60m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
Super fun bouldery start, followed by insecure slab climbing. This pitch just keeps on going. The texture on that orange rock is wild, you stick like velcro.
4
25
30m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
Sooooo good!!! Had a long rest and a bit of lunch before starting up this, and I was feeling quite jittery when I finally started. Got pumped pretty quickly in the overhang looking for the good holds and was relieved when I realised you could rest sitting on the stalactite - except my rope got stuck and I had to downclimb a bit to free it before I could rest. Jeeeez. Managed to dyno to a jug after the rest and trucked my way up to a long move out left where the pump got too much. What a wild ride!
5
23
20m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
This felt reeally hard after the last pitch. Super pumpy, even with a handsfree kneebar.
6
22
60m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
My brain was struggling on this pitch. The cumulative tiredness from the weekend hit and I was forgetting how to rock climb, and fuck me, 60m is a lot of rock climbing. Topped out and shared some victory choccy. Absolute bliss! An incredible day on rock. | 220m, 18 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 12th Jun 2023 | ||||
First time in bungonia and first time climbing limestone. Pretty blown away by the whole experience. Done in 10hrs car to car at a very leisurely pace. Crazy contrast between the juggy steep orange walls and the grey slabs - which took me most of the day to get comfy trusting my feet on.
|
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25 |
★★★ Samarkand
- with
alyssa smirnov
2
25
35
lead by
Blueoffset4lyf
Fell about 2 m before the it's all over hold, pulled back on straight to the top Great movement over wild steep terrain Fought hard, doubt I'll go back | 130m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Aug 2023 | ||||
Great movement all the way on varying rock quality.
After a sleepless night got up at 6:30 knowing I was gonna try pull the onsight of my life out my ass. Tried to link the first three raps with a beena blocked 60+70m combo resulted in roughly 1hr and 45 mins of myself and Alyssa faffing furiously with a 3:1 to drag the rope down. Finished hauling the rope down and rapped in by 10:45 |
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25 |
★★★ The Regular Route
1
23
20m
2
25
30m
3
24
20m
4
21
20m
5
24
30m
6
22
30m
7
23
40m
| 190m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 13th Apr 2024 | ||||
All time mega classic. A solid effort to get up this thing, everything you’ve heard is true. P2 is crazy crimpy and consistently committing. P3 is scary and committing to the wet crux with bad fall potential was an exercise in sphincter clenching. Leading the first 3 cooked me and Louie took the reigns for 4 and 6 while I managed to deliriously onsight my way back to the car and a few beers.
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24 | ★★★ Yesterday's Groove - with Pat | 100m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Thu 5th Apr 2018 | ||||
Super awesome route. Just like some classic rad trad but with a squillion bolts. First pitch is really fun and quite sustained but probably not 23, i think 22 is fair. I thought pitch two is even better again, being fairly moderate till about half way where it gradually gains intensity until the very end. Here the crux was made quite tricky as the entire upper section of the face was problematically saturated and almost none of the face holds were at all useable. Hence i channelled my inner trad dad and power stemmed the corner direct to glory. Not sure of the grade here; the moves would certainly be pretty gnarly for a 23 but i dont really onsight 24 and it was pretty much only the one hard sequence coming out of a good rest, so maybe it isn't too bad. The last pitch was also really cool with the traverse being awesome and super out there. I found the crux quite difficult to read and subsequently fell off After it was figured though out the moves were fine. Definitely deserving more attention! Get on it!!
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24 | ★★ The Squealing | 87m, 15 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 14th Jul 2018 | ||||
Quite an adventurous climb, worth a crack., starts up vegetated corner (cams) before first carrot, and a dusty rail traverse over to the arete. Some great arete moves on this long pitch! One of which I could not do , off the midway ledge. Some interesting route finding, off the ledges two times I traversed in from the far left. Mostly carrots but bring a single rack of cams to 3 and nuts.
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24 A0 |
★★★ Evolution
1
15
265m
2
22
3
21
4
23
5
22
6
24
7
19 A0
| 270m, 55 | Bungonia Gorge | Fri 10th Aug 2018 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Guillotine
- with
Bisho
| 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 6th Oct 2018 | ||||
Onsighted pitch 1, and fell after the crux of pitch 2 getting to the weakness before the anchors. The real crux is keeping the pump under control for the last 8m. One shot.
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24 |
★★★ Guillotine
1
22
20m
2
24
28m
| 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 26th Nov 2018 | ||||
24 | ★★★ Yesterday's Groove | 100m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 19th Feb 2019 | ||||
TOP climbing, really nice corner with some tricky moves in pitch two and amazing traverse and overhang in pitch three. One of my best climb in Blue Mountains.
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24 |
★★ The Iron Throne
1
16
14m
2
23
32m
3
22
30m
4
24
37m
| 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 20th Apr 2019 | ||||
Great climb, pitch 2 is probably tricky at the grade. Pitch 4 is great. Got all the moves but too pumpy for me to link them all.
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24 |
★★★ Weaselburger
1
24
200m
2
3
4
5
6
| 200m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 3rd Jun 2019 | ||||
24 |
★★★ Guillotine
1
22
20m
2
24
28m
| 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 27th Jul 2019 | ||||
Wow, fun 50m stretcher
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24 |
★★★ Yesterday's Groove
- with
Gee Rad
1
22
35m
2
23
40m
3
24
30m
| 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Sep 2019 | ||||
A bit less techy corner climbing than expected but a really good climb nonetheless. Some nice exploding choss holds to keep things lively.
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22 |
★★★ Guillotine (Guillotine P1)
1
22
20m
| 20m, 23 | Blue Mountains | Mon 11th Nov 2019 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Guillotine
- with
Alvaro
2
24
28m
lead by
Alvaro
| 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | Tue 28th Jan 2020 | |||||
Wow, this is bloody amazing. I managed to do the first pitch clean after basically skipping the beginning with help from the tree. Not sure it counts, but whatever... I then saw how Alvaro did it clean from the ground without the tree, and I reckon I wasn't far from doing it, will try next time. But pitch 2 is a bloody pump fest, I need to be much stronger to try that...
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24 |
★★★ Guillotine
- with
Laurent Brugière
1
22
20m
2
24
28m
| 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 13th Mar 2020 | ||||
22 |
★★★ Guillotine (Guillotine P1)
- with
Adrian Kladnig, grace
1
22
20m
| 20m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 21st Mar 2020 | ||||
24 |
★★ Cynics United
- with
Paul Frothy Thomson
| 82m | Blue Mountains | Mon 8th Jun 2020 | |||||
Would have been better if it wasn't in 50kph winds. Pitch 2 was quite hard from the get go, i didn't expect it. Aided the crux pitch to prevent having to jumar if i fell on second, it's so steep! Will go back for it one day.
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24 |
★★★ I Was a Teenager For the CIA
- with
Roman
1
24
28m
2
23
30m
| 58m | Blue Mountains | Tue 8th Dec 2020 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Weaselburger
- with
Dimi
1
22
35m
2
24
35m
3
23
30m
4
21
40m
5
22
30m
6
20
20m
| 190m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 8th Dec 2020 | ||||
Pitch 2 was hard, definitely reasonable to grade it 24. The whole thing was a fun time and went very smoothly
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24 | ★★★ Guillotine - with Trent | 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 5th Apr 2021 | ||||
Epic route!! Pristine climbing.
Didnt get the second pitch clean, will have to come back and tick it. Absolutely enjoyable.
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24 |
★★★ Guillotine
1
22
20m
2
24
28m
| 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 6th Apr 2021 | ||||
First pitch, beautiful climbing on great holds.
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22 |
★★★ Guillotine (Guillotine P1)
- with
TiniestFury
1
22
20m
| 20m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Mon 12th Apr 2021 | ||||
24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Ben Schaeffer
1
15
15m
2
22
30m
3
21
35m
4
23
25m
5
22
30m
6
24
25m
7
23
55m
| 220m, 55 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Oct 2020 | ||||
Really good. We made a bad choice on the exit pitch though
|
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24 |
★★★ I Was a Teenager For the CIA
1
24
28m
2
23
30m
| 58m | Blue Mountains | Sun 8th Dec 2019 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Guillotine (Guillotine P1)
1
22
20m
| 20m, 23 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Tue 25th May 2021 | ||||
23 |
★★ Luft (Luft P1)
1
23
55m
| 55m | Blue Mountains | Sat 25th Sep 2021 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Yesterday's Groove
1
22
35m
2
24
40m
3
24
30m
| 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Feb 2022 | ||||
Will have to come back for the last pitch. Really happy to get the second pitch clean. A bit wet here and there. Didn't stem that much. Just face climbed most of it. Heaps of choss to keep you thinking.
|
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24 |
★★★ Guillotine
1
22
20m
2
24
28m
| 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | Mon 28th Feb 2022 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Weaselburger
1
22
35m
2
24
35m
3
23
30m
4
21
40m
5
22
30m
6
20
20m
| 190m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Mon 21st Mar 2022 | ||||
Great climb, some questionable quality in the top pitches but great entertainment value. Sat at the crux move to read it but the rest was clean.
|
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24 |
★★ Petrified
- with
Simmo
1
23
15m
2
24
20m
3
21
15m
| 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 11th Jun 2022 | ||||
Climbed this as a giant 50m pitch from the ground as well. This was by far the better of the 2 routes here, with better rock and climbing on every pitch. P3 might be the best pitch of the day!
P1 was a great sustained burly quest. Fell off 2 bolts from the top of P2 on the onsight -got a bit lost from the bolt positioning and ended up in no man's land. P3 was awesome rock and "oozy" style climbing. |
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24 |
★★★ Guillotine
- with
Antoine Chandonnet
1
22
20m
2
24
28m
| 48m, 23 | Blue Mountains | Thu 23rd Jun 2022 | |||||
opted for the mega pitch ultimate linkup and took the most sickening whipper of my life pumped out of my brains redlining it above the (unclipped) penultimate bolt for a stance that never came. Turns out Chando's 80m 9.2mm had more stretch than either of us anticipated and I came up 5m short of the pitch 1 anchors. The whole experience was pretty rad.
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25 |
★★ SSCC4
- with
Will Vidler
1
23
25m
2
25
25m
| 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 13th Jul 2022 | ||||
My unchalked onsight of P2 ended at the 3rd last bolt (and the last real move) when I finally made a footwork mistake, with all the hardest climbing in the bag . Despite being aesthetically ugly, the moves on both pitches are brilliant, and I had to pull out every slab-climbing trick in the book on the onsight effort of P2. It was dissappointing to drop the ball right at the try-line, but it wasn't absent a whole-hearted effort -I tried hard.
Linked both pitches from the ground with minimum rope drag. The start of P1 is rather nails, but the initial moves its only about gr21 to the top. |
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24 | ★★★ Thrustblock - with Paul Frothy Thomson | 80m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sun 8th Jan 2023 | ||||
I've always seen this wild looking system of rock and wanted to try it. Rain protected aswell.
|
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24 |
★★★ Weaselburger
- with
Eliya
1
22
35
2
24
35
3
23
30
4
21
40
5
22
30
6
20
20
| 190m | Blue Mountains | Sun 19th Mar 2023 | |||||
Another pierces classic! It always feels good smearing on sandstone after a week of climbing polished tonsai limestone.
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24 | ★★ Dauntless - with Match | 170m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 22nd Apr 2023 | ||||
Just one more big Katoomba Cliffs -with everything that encompasses- mixed epic off the list.
I liked P2, P3 and P5, but the other pitches are really just doddly, chossy access/egress pitches. P2 had some cool, wandery, super runout face climbing, with more sideways than up. The opening mantles were tough! I got off route trying to free an old aid route at one point -eventually broke a hold and took a big whip, realised my mistake, lowered back to a big no-hands ledge, and continued onsighting the correct line. This was my favourite pitch of the route. P3 was a sketchy solo on loose rock to the first bolt, then a cool fused corner, followed by an easy, but airy traverse. P4 is just a short vertical walk. P5 necessitated pioneering some new beta since the crux breakages. I eventually figured out some very unlikely morpho beta that went at the same grade. After the crux, its some pretty wild unprotected campus traversing to the belay. P6 Is a long death by ironstone arete. Easy, but not much gear. P7 is an even more death by ironstone pitch, with even worse gear, leading to a vertical gardening exit. |
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24 |
★★★ Evolution
- with
Peter
| 160m, 55 | Bungonia Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Fri 2nd Jun 2023 | ||||
First time at bungonia. This place is epic! We had great conditions and a fantastic day of climbing. Finished up the other end of evolution.
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24 |
★★★ Weaselburger
1
22
35m
2
24
35m
3
23
30m
4
21
40m
5
22
30m
6
20
20m
| 190m | Blue Mountains | Mon 30th Oct 2023 | |||||
24 |
★★★ Yesterday's Groove
- with
Thirsty
1
22
35m
lead by
Luke Yerbury
Excellent stemming with a few tricky bits to get your brain going for p2.
2
24
40m
lead by
Thirsty
Well led by the big fella. A real tough sequence a few bolts before the anchor. I just managed to squeak it out clean on second.
3
24
30m
A lusty traverse indeed! Dropped it at the move off the pocket. There was three holds to go for and of course I chose the worst of the three. | 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 19th Nov 2023 | ||||
Epic multi, all pitches high quality. Deployed the 100m static for an easy rap in for this and rutger
|
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22 |
★★★ Titanical
1
lead by
Elliot
2
22
lead by
Me
3
lead by
Elliot
| 42m | Coalcliff | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 24th Oct 2017 | ||||
Absolutely phenomenal way to end a day of work! Climbed as 3 seperate pitches and loved every second of it. Take 16 draws and you'll have enough to clip everything on the way down and maybe a few left over. Elliot and I both broke footholds off at the very last bolt, he managed to stay on but I went flying. Easily earns the 3 stars
|
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23 |
★★★ Wafer Thin Fin
1
21
35m
2
22
18m
3
23
18m
| 71m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 9th Feb 2018 | ||||
23 | ★★★ Subliminal - with Rod de Paiva | 92m, 33 | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 3rd Mar 2018 | ||||
Traverse was pretty wild at the start! Got through that then P2, the first 30m was relentless. Turns out my endurance is shit house. There's more rests and the moves ease off in the top half. In saying all this, the climbing is fantastic in an unbelievable position. Let’s not forget the mantel at the end! Fark!
P3, just a means to an end.
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23 |
★★★ Wake of the Flood
- with
Louis
1
20
50m
2
21
3
23
| 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 7th Apr 2018 | ||||
Awesome climbing with some varied styles. Loved the V-Chimney, but unfortunately broke some of my gear loops on one side of my harness squeezing up it. But put everything on a sling and managed to get the onsight for the 21! Some strenuous thin hand jamming. Would be nice to come back to the 23 one day.
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23 | ★★★ Wafer Thin Fin - with Gino Lagazio, art ho bayly | 71m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sat 13th Jan 2018 | ||||
Really fun day out, enjoyed p2 the most. 7 hours car to car, definitely unique.
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23 |
★★★ Titanical
- with
Alec Brodie
1
23
12m
3
22
20m
| 32m | Coalcliff | Fri 17th Aug 2018 | |||||
Doing the first pitch for a warm up was tough, would definitely extend the the very last draw on the rap in...Alec did a great great job leading the two last pitches scary at the top clipping the last bolt... Would be Great summer climbing but was kinda cold in the shade all day
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24 |
★★★ Smegadeath
- with
Martin Cankov
| 220m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 19th Jan 2019 | ||||
Sustained,long and bit wondery 1st pitch got lost travers far left and back...2nd pitch hard start! 3rd pitch thin sustained 4th pitch brutal would say more like 24(very good to have couple of ring bolts there very, carrots would be difficult to clip) 5th first part very nice exposed rest easy wall and 6th hard a few moves at the begging. Overall awesome day out exhausted to the bottom.
I wouldn't be afraid to say it is solid 24 but we didn't have ideal condition, Even though we started at 6am was super humid and yesterday heat didn't help to recover at all.
Be solid in the grade and go get this one!
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23 |
★★★ Smegadeath
- with
adam, nathan
1
23
215m
2
20
3
21
4
23
5
21
6
22
| 220m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 23rd Apr 2019 | ||||
Such an epic day!!!
Maybe a party of 3 was ambitious but lots of fun was had!
1st pitch good,
2nd pitch wtf that first move!? Then ok..
3rd, Epic!
4th Epic!
5th EPIC!
6th EPIC! (but rope drag a definite problem! Take many long runners!)
A shame i was the only one to see the exposure of the last pitch in daylight!
All topped out about 7:20pm
Keen to return! Would definitely recommend! |
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23 | ★★★ Smegadeath - with anderson | 220m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th May 2019 | ||||
10.5 hours, route is closer then the think walking in. Pumped out on the first pitch down climbing to a carrot. Awesome day,
|
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23 | ★★★ Subliminal - with Benham | 92m, 33 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 7th May 2019 | ||||
What an incredible climb, the rap in alone was amazing and exposed. Went to belay B, tricky to rap to here. Climb was in the shade from like 10am, so got cold at belays.
The climb itself was great, lots of jugs, ledges and fun movement. Got very pumped over gripping holds and had rests on the rope a few times. It would be good to go back and do it again, very memorable climbing and location.
Ended up using 28 draws from belay B.
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23 |
★★★ Subliminal
- with
Wall
1
20
20m
2
23
58m
3
14
14m
| 92m, 33 | Blue Mountains | Sat 1st Jun 2019 | |||||
22 |
★★★ Rutger Hauer
1
22
105m
2
3
4
| 110m | Blue Mountains | Fri 14th Jun 2019 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Titanical
- with
Drew Ivison, Drew Ivison
| 42m | Coalcliff | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Jul 2019 | ||||
Truly beautiful climbing! Though, summer is a more sensible time to go. Freezing to bits on the belay!
|
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23 |
★★ Infant Terror
1
23
23
2
23
22
| 45m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Jul 2019 | ||||
23 |
★★ Infant Terror
1
23
23
2
23
22
3
| 45m, 16 | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Wed 24th Jul 2019 | ||||
23 |
★★★ Rutger Hauer
- with
Luke Hef
1
18
30m
2
21
30m
3
23
30m
4
17
15m
| 110m | Blue Mountains | ★★ Very Good | Sun 21st Jul 2019 | ||||
Heaps and Heaps of fun!!! didn't feel to hard at the grade but just a good route. Weasel's is better but this is the guide book cover hahah. the rap in is pretty average. I hung on a bolt just over the lip and pulled the knot over the edge.
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23 | ★★★ Smegadeath - with Nick, Coedie | 220m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Sat 17th Aug 2019 | ||||
What a great day out!! Great way to christen the new ropes! Frustrating foot pop as i relaxed after making a move just below the first belay but we managed to lead each pitch cleanly and topped out in about 6 hours, excellent climbing each pitch delivers!!
|
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23 |
★★★ Subliminal
- with
Gee Rad
1
20
20m
2
23
58m
3
14
14m
| 92m, 33 | Blue Mountains | Fri 27th Sep 2019 | |||||
“Yummy”
|
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23 |
★★★ Wake of the Flood
- with
Owen Cameron
| 50m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Classic | Tue 1st Oct 2019 | ||||
Beautiful day out in the mountains! Random trip to this area and hopped on this first thing. Had a lot of fun in the Bombay chimney and squeeze slot. The crack was very crystaly and tore my hands up a bit. Linked 1&2. Fell 2x seconding the top pitch but is very doable if I think through the sequence more. I think the route is a bit soft though coming from Yosemite grading.
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23 |
★★★ Smegadeath
- with
Marty W
| 220m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | ||||
One move away from onsighting my 23 lead pitch. Super cruxy. Big whip! Easy 2nd shot.
|
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23 |
★★★ Smegadeath
- with
james ritchie
| 220m | Blue Mountains | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 6th Oct 2019 | ||||
Wow , pitch 1, never been so pumped ! A kilo of carrot plates didn’t help
Favourite pitch was 4 ! Great day all round ! |