Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Evans Crown Crown Buttress | |||||
18 | ★ Jika Jika
Start: 5m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids' and 2m left of Optem Bop. Up past 3 fixed hangers and a carrot to rap station or lower offs at 15m. Crux passing 1st BR FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 30m, 4 | |||
22 | Unknown
Up slab and overlap past some rusty carrots. 2nd BR is very high. Start: 1m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids'. | 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Honey, I Shrunk the Kids
Good clean fun. Start: 1m right of Celeborn. Up slab and overlap past 4BR to rap station on small ledge. FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 25m, 4 | |||
17 R | ★ Celeborn
Start: About 20m down R from Goog Gap. Committing slab and groove to crack at 20m. FA solo FA: J.Friend, 1976 | 25m | |||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love
Start: As for Celeborn. Left to dyke, follow water smear over bulge. Left up wall to ledge at 3rd bolt. Then left to finish on BMDiL and DBB. FA: M.Myers & S.Hutley, 1988 | 35m, 7 | |||
21 R | ★ Rap Station Zebra
Start: 4m left of Celeborn. Up slab past BR to join UtNoL. Clip BR on UtNoL, cross, and follow short, low angled groove/ramp to where it steepens and fades. A few dubious wires are possible at this stage. Clip a high BR and let the fun begin! Blunder up past 2BR keeping left of cleaned area to a small ledge & rap station. FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 30m, 5 | |||
23 | Bury Me Deep in Love
Start: 4m right of 'Jagusch Putsch', left of 1st BR. Up to dyke & ledge, over bulge, and up easy ground to shared 2FH anchor. FA: D.Haines & S.Thompson, 1988 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ Jagusch Putsch
Interesting climb up pleasant groove. Start: Up right groove of two 2m right of 'Hotel du Lac', then pull into groove proper. 4BRs, then small wires to protect upper section. Shared 2FH anchor. FA: A.Jones & S.Johnstone, 1989 | 30m, 4 | |||
23 | Hotel du Lac
An interesting groove with an infuriating overhang. Andrew Penney returned to eliminate the single point of aid. Start: 10m right of Goog 'Gully'. The left groove of two. Up short slab past BR into crack. Easily up crack, groove to bulge, hard move past BR to gain groove then up easy slab past two carrots to shared 2FH anchor. FA: A.Penney, 1990 | 30m, 4 | |||
★ ?
Up blunt arete 2m right of Goog Gully. Al said he bolted it but it's never been climbed and he may remove it. | 30m, 4 | ||||
15 | ★ Unknown Five
FA: Unknown | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Sitting Pretty
Start: Right side of central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully. Excellent delicate slabbing on clean rock past 5FH to rap station. Renamed "Psyke (16)" around 2015 in the absence of accurate information. FA: A. Penney, 1990 | 20m, 5 | |||
17 | ★ Blue Train
Short wall and ribbed arête (dyke) on central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully. Thin moves to gain the dyke, then easier up to rap station on top. Renamed "Dyke (15)" around 2015 in the absence of accurate information. FA: D. Haines, 1988 | 20m, 3 | |||
21 | ★★ Bad to the Bone
Steep and technical with 6 SS FH. FA: A. Penney, 1990 | 20m, 6 | |||
8 | Pat’s Crack
Easy angled right facing ramp inside small gully. Start: 10m R of Cirdan. Returned to nature. FA: P. Ryan, 1990 | 10m | |||
13 | ★ Cirdan
Start: Below damp green groove starting appears about 6m above the ground right of Walloper gully. Delicate slab and mantle to groove, then follow this upwards. Supposed to have good wire and small cam pro but currently returned to nature. FA: Wilson & Hatherly, 1974 | 20m | |||
17 | ★★ Not Blue Train
This climb is wrongly identified in the Crag. Blue Train is actually the re-named Dyke. Correct name to be fixed later. Up short wall, then follow the blunt arete. Start: Left of 'Cirdan'. FA: M.Myers, M.Ellims & D.Haines, 1988 | 30m, 6 | |||
22 | ★ High Moral Ground
Start: Use cairn to climb left side of the rib 5m right of SoH. BB and bush to L. FA: A.Penney, 1990 | 33m, 7 | |||
17 | Walloper
Start: Big ugly chimney with internal moss capped by a chockstone in an obvious square cut gully down and left from Goog Gap. Up in whatever manner you see fit. FA: J.Friend, 1976 | 35m | |||
21 | No Love Lost
Start: Clean diagonal offwidth on left side of Walloper gully. Climbs offwidth all the way, #5-6 cams to start then narrowing. Potential to stick clip first BR of Sea of Heartbreakat 6m and continue up off-width to top of Walloper chimney. FA: M.Colyvan & G.Moore, 1988 | 35m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Sea of Heartbreak
Much of the offwidth can be avoided by traversing in from the right. Some good face climbing when you get there. Start: As for No Love Lost. Stick clip, up offwidth past another BR, traverse left and up to 3rd BR, then up dyke past 2BR to chain belay. FA: M.Colyvan & P.Bayne, 1988 | 35m, 5 | |||
26 | Spouse
Not very nice. Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH. Climb buttress past 5 BR then when 5m above last BR, traverse right into SoH. FA: M.Law, 1988 | 49m, 5 | |||
8 | Gorbag
Start: right side of gully, about 10m up and right from 'Shagrat'. Up gully / chimney. FA solo FA: J.Friend, 1973 | 70m | |||
18 | ★★ Barad Dur
Originally done with a couple of points of aid. Joe Friend freed this in 1975 and added the last pitch. Start: In the L side of Gorbag gully.
FFA: J.Friend FA: (FA:R.Douglas & D.Tanner), 1973 | 75m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Barry Dur
Start: 2m left of 'Barad Dur'. Climb arete past 3BR to join Barad Dur at lip of roof. Left to chain. FA: M.Law & J.Fletcher, 1988 | 25m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Your Neighbourhood Bolter
Start: 3m left of Barry Dur. Up past 4BR to chain on Barry Dur. FA: J.Fletcher & F.Lumsden, 1988 | 25m, 4 | |||
7 R | ★ Shagrat
Quite a pleasant outing. Up the left gully on the main part of the east face of Crown Buttress. FA solo FA: J.Friend (solo), 1973 | 65m | |||
20 R | ★ Born Crazy
Start: Left arete of 'Shagrat', reached by a horizontal crack which leads out of Shagrat about 8m up. As for S then crack to arete and up, getting protection where you can. FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1977 | 70m | |||
Evans Crown Googolplex Crag | |||||
17 | Crystal Cavern
| 25m | |||
30 | ★★★ Fight Club
The inverted squeeze chimney / bum-crack above the Camping Cave. Starting at the back of the cave, chimney up, invert from a fist jam, stick your feet up there and shuffle upside down to lip. Cut loose, work around lip, then cruise up offwidth vertical section. Has been done in various ways using the full range of offwidth techniques, needs a few 5 & 6 cams for roof. Hardest climb listed at Tarana, maybe the hardest "wide" climb in Aus? FA: Doug McConnell, Mar 2015 NA: Gwen Lancashire, 28 May 2023 | 15m | |||
18 | White Wizard
Once a test piece in EBs. Take big friends! Start: 30m left of P in quiet gully. Right-to-left diagonal corner under overhang, across coloured slab to ledge. Scramble off L. FA: M.Law, 1976 | 10m | |||
20 | Kazad Dum
Start: 4m left of P. Off width crack for 4m then right. FA: R.Reynolds, 1988 | 10m | |||
16 | Parallelsogood
Start: Obvious squeeze chimney on the western side of Goog Gap that faces Celeborn FA: J.Friend, 1977 | 15m | |||
23 | ★ Belly Acres
Very pumpy for its length. An undercling going nowhere. Start: Middle of the wall to the left of, and at right angle to PP. Stick clip 1st BR and a few hard moves gain flake. Undercling and jam to its end, and lower off the bolt.. FA: J.Smoothy, G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1987 | 10m | |||
14 | ★ Passionate Pleasantries
A very good slab route. Start further L from the big curving wall on some boulders just R of a gully in a corner.
Start: Up left from the big, curving wall on some boulders right of a gully. 2 pitches. FA: J.Monaghan & F.Lumsden, 1988 | 30m, 2 | |||
25 | Unknown
Start at big curving wall down right from 'Passionate Pleasantries'. Up past and left to arete past BR & 3FH. | 20m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Ice
Start: On same boulder as Reflections, down and round L from that climb. Step off boulder onto slab. Up diagonally left for pro (desperate nut placement), then up dyke diagonally right past 2 BR to poor BB belay at trees. FA: M.Law, 1988 | 10m | |||
10 | Reflections
Start on the boulder opposite the curving, smooth wall up and left of 'Feanor'. Low angled corner. Dec 2016 - deep in lichen FA: J.Friend, 1970 | 10m | |||
13 | ★ Feanor
Start: 20m left of Bonsai Delight. 2 pitches up crack to roofs, awkwardly right to big chimney and up. FA: J.Friend, P.Blackwood & B.Wilson, 1973 | 60m, 2 | |||
22 | Thrashing the Mullet Gun
Some neat moves. Start: Thin open corner 5m left of TA and about 20m L of MS. Stem up against boulder to BR, then up corner to good pockets (nut pro). Tricky move around the next BR, then slab to rap bolts. 3 FH in total. FA: M.Stacey & F.Moon, 1989 | 25m, 3 | |||
24 | ★★ A Ticklish Affair
Sustained, varied climbing. Start as for TfJ.
Start: As for TfJ. 3 pitches. FA: J.Smoothy, 1988 | 40m, 3 | |||
24 | ★ Twitching for Jesus
Start: 25m left of TH.Straight up to BR and jug at 8m, diagonally L to BR and jug at 16m. Up easing slab. FA: M.Law & G.Robertson, 1988 | 35m | |||
23 | ★★ Mr Sheen
Sustained and delicate. Start: 2m left of BD.
FA: G.de Lacy, A.Schnarbel, B.Stevens & D.Taylor, 1988 | 50m, 2 | |||
18 | Bonsai D-lite
Start: 12 left of TH. Slab and up open-ended, vegetated chimney. FA: J.Friend & Palmer, 1977 | 55m | |||
23 | ★★★ The Howling
Classic! Start: Marked. 10m left of 2001BB. Thin right leaning diagonal crack. Up crack to better crack and up to tree. Left to arete and up. Traverse down and left along ramp to belay. Right side of arete and up. Please note that the climb has gone back to nature and is unclimbable. Pity FA: G.Robertson & M.Colyvan, 1987 | 85m | |||
26 | ★ Rubber Nuns
Good, hard slab climbing! Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip past 2BR to bulge, hard moves over this past BR to stance, head up slab past BR to belay as per TH. FA: P.Colyvan, 1989 | 35m | |||
18 | ★★★ Fuzzy Navel
A classic long arete. Start: Thin crack 2m right of TH.
FA: P.Bayne, D.Haines, J.Monaghan & M.Colyvan, 1988 | 75m, 2 | |||
21 | ★ Shelf Life
Good looking hanging arete. Start: Rap in from top of buttress between FN and SDotT (there is a large boulder near the edge here). Cam belay on obvious ledge at base of arete. Up arete past 4 BR. FA: P.Bayne & M.Colyvan, 1988 | 30m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★★ Retreat from Moscow
Sustained with a thin start. Start: 3m left of 2001BB on top of log. Fire up past 5 BR (with FH) then easily to a small ledge with DBB - rap off. FA: A.Penney & B.Scheerer, 1989 | 25m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ Finger Tight
Start: On the terrace where DSE ends, directly above that climb. Can rap in from the top of SDotT. Straight up past 3 BR then run it out up the slab. Wander across to the DBB on top of SDotT FA: P.Colyvan & G.Robbins, 1988 | 30m | |||
20 | ★ Desperately Seeking Evan
A really pleasant white slab. Start: As for 2001BB. Crack until it curves right. Move left onto slab and up past 3 BR to good ledge & BB. FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987 | 25m, 3 | |||
18 | ★ 2001 Bilbo Baggins
The first line up this impressive face. The obvious crack line leading up to a L-R diagonal ramp
Start: Obvious crack leading to diagonal ramp. FA: M.Law, J.Friend & B.Ewald, 1976 | 65m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ This One's for Evelyn
Start: Marked. 10m right of 2001BB. Desperately up slab past BR, then more easily up groove (4RP and small cam) to another BR. Move L, then easily up slab to big ledge & BB. FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987 | 25m, 2 | |||
19 | ★ Occam's Razor Antithesis
Finish Retreat from Moscow by traversing to the far righthand end of the belay slab, equalising the fixed hanger on LBM and a manky 6mm carrot 2m left. Continue heading up and right along a slowly narrowing groove (2001BB) which eventually becomes an overlap and thin seam, clipping bolts on SDOTT, GHtHHH and REN and supplementing with cams (#1 BD, #3 BD) and a Mid-sized hex. When the grove widens and breaks upwards into unprotected vertical climbing, continue right past REN to the next major line of bolts (FCJ), and continue up this to finish (supplement with slinging bomber flake, and slinging shrub). Belay bolts well back from edge. May not be a first ascent, but was done as a safe way of retreating from Escape from Moscow, avoiding any of the more committing climbs above, and with minimal gear. Despite the length and wandery nature of this climb, rope-drag was not a problem. FA: P. Thomson (L) & A. Cummings (S)., 2012 | 45m | |||
22 | ★★ Laughing Boy Morris
Good sustained climbing up a striking line. Start: 2m right of TOfE.
FA: A.Penney & CJ.Jagusch, 1989 | 55m, 2, 9 | |||
20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad
A classic. Start: Scramble up the Coffin Hole for about 15m to the top of a large boulder - the climb starts here. Belay Bolt. Straight up slab past BR to the diagonal of 2001 Bilbo Baggins where you can get a wire in. Straight up again past 4 BR to DBB. FA: M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987 | 28m | |||
21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers
Quite nice. Start: 2m right of SDotT. Short slab past 2 BR, across 2001BB, up past 4 BR to DBB on SDotT. FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & S.Pierce, 1989 | 28m | |||
21 | Bilbo Baggins Direct Start
From cairn about 2m R of GHtHHH climb slab past 3 BR to join top crack of 2001 Bilbo Baggins. FA: Unknown, 1990 | 10m, 3 | |||
20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality
Start: 4m right of GHtHHH. Up past 2 FH and over bulge, up face right of prominent groove past 4 FH and #3 Friend. Old bolts replaced by new FH. FA: R.Stiles & M.King, 1989 | 25m, 6 | |||
20 | ★ Field Commander Jagusch
Start: 1m right of REN. Up slab past 5 BR to DBB. A 2.5 Friend is useful near the top. FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & M.Newberry, 1990 | 25m, 5 | |||
19 | ★★ Saddam's Black Heart
Start: . From block on right edge of slab 1 - 2m left of MB, step left onto slab. Up past 5 BR to Mr Bubbles belay. FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 25m | |||
20 | ★★ Mr Bubbles
Start: Near the top of the Coffin Hole 'Gully', about 10m right of 'Field Commander Jagusch'. Up slab past 5BR to DBB FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 25m, 5 | |||
Evans Crown Deckout Buttress | |||||
23 | Arboretum
Sustained all the way to the summit. Start: On West arete of a big boulder approx 120m W of the Deckout buttress. Bridge up desperately between tree and wall, then up past 6 BR. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 18m, 6 | |||
25 | Police Presence
Boulder problem to arete. Start: On boulder 50m NW of the buttress. Start 2m right of the SW facing corner. Desperate boulder problem to start. Stick clip first BR and fall upwards, moving R to the arete. FA: J.Smoothy, 1989 | 14m, 4 | |||
12 | Gandalf's Chimney
Start: Originally 2 pitches with an optional 3rd - the terrace leading around R to to the start of Chain Mail Crack. Better to do it in one. The obvious chimney a few m L of RD. Through roof at 5m. Chockstone belay. FA: B.Douglas, I.Baker & C.Brown, 1973 | 35m | |||
21 R | ★ That's Dancin'
Start: 3m left of RD. An interesting jaunt, a fall near the top could be nasty. Up the steep lower section past 3 BR. Continue at a more reasonable angle past another 2 BR to DBB 2m L of RD's belay. Bring some brackets. FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 34m, 5 | |||
23 | ★ Roller Disco
Start: Marked. 7m down and left of DMB. Desperately smooth slab - up past 6 BR to DBB rap station. FA: G.Bradbury, M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987 | 30m, 6 | |||
21 | ★★ The Owl and the Pussycat
Good climbing up sustained, steep slab. Start: 4m left of DMB. Up past 5 BR (2 with FH) to small ledge and rap station. FA: A.Penney & CJ Jagusch, 1989 | 23m, 5 | |||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots
Start: 5m down and left of Scabby Lizards. Up slabby wall past 5-6 BR to DBB & chain. Good sustained low angle climbing. FA: G.Bradbury, M.Colyvan, F.Lumsden & J.Smoothy, 1987 | 25m, 6 | |||
21 R | ★ Scabby Lizards
Start: 3m left again. Slab and small overlap. A bit thin on bolts FA: S.Camps & J.Smoothy, 1987 | 20m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack
Ghastly looking, overhanging fist crack. Start: Obvious crack starting on the terrace above 'Sudden Impact'. FA: M.Law, 1976 | 15m | |||
21 | ★★ Sudden Impact
Start: 3m left of 'Bloodbath'. A one move wonder. Hard moves past the first BR then easily up the railway tracks past another BR to ledge (3 Friend and large nut anchor) FA: J.Smoothy, G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1987 | 15m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Polkagris
The famous Swedish candy stick. Between Bloodbath and Sudden Impact. Head up past a few pockets and 4 BR. The carrots stick out for miles. Belay from crack at top (4 Camalot) or use the chains on Bloodbath. FA: C-J, Jagusch & A.Penney, 1989 | 15m, 4 | |||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath
Start: Water streak 2m left of Jonestown. Up slab past 4 BR to chain. Often wet. FA: M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987 | 15m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Greenies' Delight
Original without bolts. Start: 0.5m left of Jonestown, line of new carrots just right of the short seam. FA solo. FA: D.Grey, 1987 | 15m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Jonestown
Start: 1m left of TtLG. Lovely smearing. Up a few metres on L of brushed streak, then step up and R past 3x FH to ledge & DBB / chains FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & B.Sheerer., 1989 | 15m, 3 | |||
14 | Through the Looking Glass
Corner to roofs, across to squeeze chimney. Big Gear! Start: Obvious easy-angled corner in the middle of the Deckout Buttress slabs.
FA: J.Friend & A.Stewart, 1976 | 30m, 2 | |||
18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi
Up blunt nose and thin hollow flake right of Through the Looking Glass. FA: A. Penney & A. Jones, 1990 | 15m, 4 | |||
20 | ★ Mortal Combat
Start: 1m right of TtLG. Desperate bouldery start off the blocks past BR, then at a more sane angle up pleasant slab past 2 BR to BB. FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990 | 18m, 3 | |||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer
Original without bolts or brushing - FA solo. Up slab past 4 BR. Start: 2m left of DW. Chains at top. FA: D.Grey, 1988 | 15m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★ Dick Whittington
Start: 2m left of Kersplat, on right of slab. Difficult start leads to pleasant slab. Up past 2 BR. FA: A.Penney, 1989 | 15m, 2 | |||
14 | ★ You Can't Keep a Good Man Down
Start: Chimney at the back of the terrace above 'Kersplat'. No pro. FA: J.Friend?, 1977 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Kersplat
Start: 10m up hill right of the corner of Through the Looking Glass. Another hard start to a good slab. Up slab past 3 BRs to DBB and chains behind the tree. Note: new DBB & chains can be used for 4-5 climbs in this area, and using them will save the long-suffering tree. This belay station can be accessed by walking around and through the slot to set up top ropes if you prefer. FA: J.Smoothy, L.McManus & M.Stacey, 1987 | 15m, 3 | |||
17 | ★ Herd Instinct
Original without bolts.Up between Splat and Kersplat. FA: M.Myers, 1988 | 15m | |||
18 | ★★ The Straight and Narrow
Start: Slab between Splat and Herd Instinct past a BR to BB plus tree further back. FA: A.Penney, 1990 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Splat
Start: 5m right of 'Kersplat'. Good Slab. No pro. FA solo FA: J.Smoothy, 1987 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Space Invaders
Start: 1m right of 'Splat'.Up slab past bolts. DBB at top. FA: A.Penney, 1990 | 20m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Madonnas
Start: Used to be marked. 3m right of 'Splat' at prickly tree. Up slab past 2 bolts FA: J.Smoothy & D.Huber, 1987 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Pass the Lentils
Original without the bolts! Start: Originally marked, no longer visible. 2m left of StW. Belay from DBB / chains. FA: D.Grey, 1987 | 12m | |||
19 | Save the Whale
Done originally without the bolt or brushing! Up slab past one BR. FA solo. Start: 2m left of VS. Belay from DBB / chains. FA: D.Grey, 1987 | 10m, 1 | |||
16 | ★ Vegetarian Special
Start: 1 to 2m left of previous route. Up lichenous slab, no pro, FA solo. FA: D.Grey, 1987 | 8m | |||
13 | Deft
Start: About 2m left of Lipstick. Lichenous slab, no pro. FA solo. FA: J.Friend, 1976 | 8m | |||
14 | Lipstick
Start: Below the overlap - up slab past two pitons over overlap. Desperate start for a 14. Belay from a couple of #3 or larger cams in break. You can walk off to the right or back through the Camping Cave from the first 5 or 6 climbs. FA: J.Anderson & J.Cowmeadow, 1988 | 8m, 2 | |||
12 | Blunt Stick
Start: 4m right of 'Lipstick'. The far right of the crag. Up over bulge. Natural protection FA: A.Jones, A.Farquar & G.Williams, 1990 | 8m | |||
Capertee Valley Genowlan Mountain Walking Track | |||||
Swoop Proj
Face variant of kookaburra. Looks like a bug dyno to jug lip | |||||
V1 | ★★★ Kookaburra
Stand start up aesthetic arete before topping out at the top. Done in hiking shoes without pad so grade probably wrong. | ||||
Capertee Valley Ganguddy-Dunns Swamp | |||||
V2 | 7
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V1 | 6
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V0 | 5
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V4 | ★ 4.1
DELETE THIS PLEASE | 4m |