Routes in Central Tablelands

Sit start. Hands in crack. Feet MUST be on left side of crack to start for full grade. Don't use massive obvious square block. Cool moves to easy top out.

Eliminates the first 3 moves of GTBBTH. Stand start on obvious flake under cling and gaston. Move up as per GTBBTH.

Start on lowest holds of obvious rail. Cross to big jug then move up and right on jug rail. Nice technical climb.

Nice technical face climbing. Start on jug underneath start of V0. Move right to small gaston then big under cling. Move up with difficulty.

Left side of arete 1m left of MM. Start on jug rail. Up to pocket and small edge. Big moves through jugs. Stay left of arete at all times. DO NOT touch death block at start. Even with your feet.

Start on gravel rail on left side of cave. Move left and up through jug and under cling. Use crimps to reach jug rail then big move to good side pull. Finish on obvious rail. Move carefully right to get back to the ground.

20m past the Equation. A boulder leaning on the other. Start on furthest left jug. Big move up to big hole. Cross then up to flat ledge. Escape out left.

Start on wall right of Lean To. Cannot use left wall at all. Start on left bulge and right crimp. Up to small edge and pocket on left arete. Up through mono and edge to obvious jug. Now mantle. Best climb here.

Dyno.

Start as for Prosthesis but climb left via small crimps and toe hook to end up going right hand to chipped pocket before finishing on jug rail

Might be slightly harder than Prosthesis

Emmanuel Madayag

Packed full of fun from start to finish. Top of route is GPS -33.6413, 150.2514 - look for large cairn about 10m back from cliff edge - then walk towards cliff edge to find two Ubolts on shelf. Fix rap rope (not possible to pull down) and rap down ramp and then down orange wall. Clip a couple of bolts on the way to stay connected to cliff. Belay is a small cave about 15m above the ground - it's semi hanging when belaying but ok to sit down in between shots. Best to put on draws on as you rap as some clips are a bit tricky on lead. Route climbs a series of reachy shelves and edges - then traverse right a few metres then one of the best moves ever - the crucifix pocket dyno. Finish up sustained orange face.

Steep arete to the right of Blistering - overhangs about 4m. 3 star climbing but faff hanging belay knocks off a star. Find a single Ubolt & a FH above a black funnel (top of Blistering). Fix a rope and rap down - clipping a couple of bolts on the way down to hanging belay stance above vegetation.

Start with left hand low on arete, right hand on crimp side pull around arete and left foot on foothold on face. Move left using holds on arete. Once on highest point, mantle.

Start on lowest holds available. Left side pull and right crimp. Bad feet requires body tension and technique. Straight up using gastons and side pulls to awkward mantle.

Sit start on good right hand sloper with a mono pocket, left hand on side pull. Use obvious low ledge for left foot. Up to small side pull then big move right and up.

Move up the left side of the crack feature.

Sit start on two small edges and smeared foot. Move up through cool groove. Avoid using jugs out right.

Continue upwards from Sheep Go to Heaven for a powerful finale that features some unique bouldering for the bluies that will make you earn the wall!

Thanks, Wade for gifting me the route!

Start on furthest right jug edge, and travers across boulder. Do not use high rail or bail out early! Might be harder or just ugly.

Left hand slab. Up through slab to jugs.

Start low below the big scoop, between 'sit goggins sit' and 'going goggins'. Move diagonally left to sloper topout. tricky and technical climbing.

Sit start then straight up from good holds

Sit Start on left start holds and move right and finish up Skuxx Life.

Sit start then straight up. Right hand side of face.

Low sit start to cliff goggins. Doesn’t really change the grade but makes a more complete experience.

Sit start and climb to the jugs at half way then move left to shallow sloper rail and the up to the big sloper to topout.

Sit start matched on obvious flat triangle. Hard moves up corner, then top out.

Sit Start and up to obvious slot. Big move up to jugs. Top out.

Start on skuxx life moving left on the rail to the 2 pockets and from there abig move to Red fa topout.

Sit start on hole in middle of overhang. Big move up and left then up jugs. Avoid jugs on Ripple.

Sit start on alcohine and traverse the seam to moist and topout.

Do the majority of the traverse but got straight up the face to topout once you get to the arete, avoiding the moist topout.

Back of boulder. Sit start on rounded flat jug. Up through corner on flat holds. Crux is finding start feet!

Start on steep left hand prow. Move right on edges and then up through jugs.

Sit start on flat hold on arete. Use bad holds to reach nice square hold. Top out.

Sit start using the right side of the crack and the scoops and left rail of train line. Move up making big spans with tricky feet.

start to left of leg lock rock on crimps finish top-out

Sit start on obvious jug rail in middle of face. Up right to positive hold. Awkward move up to pocket thing then up and mantle.

Sit start matched on good rail with bad feet. UP right to slopy crimp then hard move to small positive edge. Grab the pinch then big move up left. Find the decent right hand then freak out while mantling! Stay off the chossy looking jugs to the right.

Small overhanging orange wall with pockets in it straight up the hill from Skating Boulder. Sit start using big right hand pocket and small left pocket in small roof. Up through cool pockets to an easy mantle.

The square face behind the tree. Sit start on left arete. Up on bad feet then traverse right along lip until mantle on far right end.

A proper highball boulder problem. I recommend top Roping from tree above to work the high crux because if you fall from there you better have a lot of mats. VERY good climb but potential for injury if you fall from the top crux. The topout and walk off is achievable now that the choss from the jug over the top has been cleared away.

Super steep roof crack on bomber hands and fists with plenty of gear. Gear recommended double #4#3#2#1, gear before first lip has to be extended or unclipped otherwise rope drag will be problematic. Lower off.

Offwidth #6 roof crack with low footwork and features inside the crack. Easy start to wedged boulder where a start anchor can be built. Chimney out to roof crack, turn lip then finger/hand traverse to next lip. Lower off. The last few meters to topout is easy climbing on rotten rock and has not been climbed. Located in a small cave just before accessing Supercrack.

Glow true! The long-awaited direct start to the "Funky Monkey Glow Linkup". A tough boulder problem to gain the pockets, grade needs confirming.

Climb up AQR to around the first/second bolt before traversing out to the arete, following it to the top.

Crack just right of Totally Testicular. At the top traverse left to DRB.

Sections of thin, technical slabbing. Climb direct up the line of the bolts (don't stray towards the crack, or too far right) with a few tough moves.

start twohands on sloper ledge, sideways-foot kneebar into dyno move and mantle to topout -->FFA:

Sections of thin, technical slabbing. Climb direct up the line of the bolts (don't stray towards the crack, or too far right) with a few tough moves.

3D and technical through blocky steepness. Hard cruxes between good rests.

Belayer should pay attention during the moves between the first and second bolt, as they're hard, and a bad catch could be catastrophic.

A few metres right of Sahelanthropus. Hard, sustained first half, to an easier finish.

The easiest route in the cave. A fun crux, but marred by a sandy cave at half height.

Up the left flake, around the sand-cave on the righthand side (seriously, stay out of the cave!), through a short roof-boulder, and onwards to a fun finish.

Stay out of the cave and climb the line of the bolts to earn the grade -it's more fun that way, anyway.

Starting at the same spot as The Henryk Manoeuvre (without clipping the bolt) head straight up and over the rooflet past big hole. Follow your nose and finish up crack to the right of THM. Top out or step across to anchors.

There’s good gear in decent rock the whole way, but it’s not always easy to find in a sea of questionable rock. Not a beginner lead.

The easiest route in the cave. A fun crux, but marred by a sandy cave at half height.

Up the left flake, around the sand-cave on the righthand side (seriously, stay out of the cave!), through a short roof-boulder, and onwards to a fun finish.

Stay out of the cave and climb the line of the bolts to earn the grade -it's more fun that way, anyway.

"Render unto ghirdrah's, what is ghidrah's"

The King of the Three Monster pitches.

A punchy Roof boulder start (The first ascensionist ripped off the jug and decked after the FA) leads to endless climbing on the excellent orange rock into the technical flake and mono crux.

Pack 30 quickdraws and an optional red cam or green cam. longer draws after the flake crux greatly reduce the drag.

Can also be climbed from the crimps at the lip of the roof at grade 24.

stand start in the jug crack and make a few moves to the fat pinch then over the bulge to top

to get here go behind dopest down the left side and down the hill around to the right past slice

Predominantly bolted route (no brackets required) but long pitches require a bit of gear too. Rap from big gumtree growing 15 meters before the dead casuarina on main ledge (Purkinje Arette belay). Rap directly down slope 15m to top anchor. Then 2 35 mtr rappels (f.a used 80mtr rope, unsure if 70 makes it). Of course you can walk to base via either of the established rap points at either end of crag, but this works well.

Gear 12 short draws, four alpine draws. Single rack up to #4, no wires, no micros. Double cams in #1, #2, #3

1. 35mtr 18 Up crack (f.a had gloves), past home made hanger/dynabolt and continue up corner, veering right when appropriate.

2. 35mtr 20 Pull on first bolt if you like (f.a didnt but much nicer!) then up. A single rack will suffice though maybe 2x #2 would be good.

Exit via u bolt on right toward casuarina so your not pulling rope up slope above. Not the worst route. A little wolganesque adventure.

Start up bolts just right of Reactor in layback overlap. Follow crack on gear, trend left across slab to final bolt and up lo Reactor anchors.

Same start as Hipshake Jerk. Batman start to jug above first bolt, then take the leftmost line through steep terrain. Start from ground with dyno still gets 26.

Starts at the right layback flake -immediately left of Sahelanthropus. A briefly tricky move at the low roof leads to a stance, followed by a technical and strenuous finale up the overhanging blocky corner.

The grade is very much open for discussion. The moves suit me, and I did it quickly, but it is a very particular style of climbing.

Start as for Wolfgang low and move up to the horizontal break and then big move out left to finish jug of ‘meat Bishop’.

Route faces north. Good in cold temps. Rap chains are on a boulder close to edge, about 5 meters back left along large ledge. Abseil 35mtr to semihanging belay/rapchain in small overhang. Abseil another 25 mtr to next rapchains on face below large ledge, this requires a pendulum to the right. Abseil 35mtr to large ledge. Route starts in corner to right looking in. Bring a single rack up to #5 Camalot, doubles in #0.4 to #2, 12 short draws, four alpine draws. No boltplates.

1. 35mtr, 20. Up wide thrutchy crack, continue up corner, using left face when neccesary.

2. 30mtr, 24. Mostly a sport pitch. Step right from belay then sustained climbing past bolts. Traverse way left, passing a small corner into steep juggy terrain, eventually placing an assortment of cams and wires working up left side of feature that you abseiled off on way down. Large cams unneccesary on this pitch. Semihanging belay.

3. 35mtr, 21. Another opportunity to use #5 cam straight off belay, then up (reachy) to endless ironstone edges and cam breaks. Doubles in small/med sizes a must for this long pitch. Either finish relatively direct after final bolt (tree belay) or continue veering left to far left edge of face. (Dub)

Built from the ground up by a malevolent child.

A cliff splitting crack that passes through three roofs and some sporty moves. Three bolts keep things sane, but you'll still need a double rack in the finger to hand sizes. A few nuts and hexes can supplement as needed.

Can be climbed as a mega pitch with some serious drag, or split at a semi hanging belay after the difficulties and below the final roof if you want to see the second.

The route starts from the major ledge underneath an obvious crack in the low roof. Trad anchor in the crack and or stick clip the first bolt to avoid consequential falls from the opening moves.

1. 30m (21) Suck it up and commit to some powerful sporty moves out of the opening roof with two bolts and gear to the delicate thin crack (crux). Follow this up through two breaks to the shale break and final bolt. Pull the roof and over into a stance and semi-hanging belay.

2. 20m (14) Follow the widening crack up into a few chimney moves to escape the final roof (all gear). Follow the crack system as it becomes increasingly easy and chossy to a final large cave (belay possible) or continue to the rap anchors and belay from here.

Gabara is a Kaiju that doesn't actually exist -except in the mind of a child, as the monstrous manifestation of his real-world bully. Heavy stuff, indeed.

A proud-looking left leaning seam crack with oodles of exposure, and very sporty steep cruxes. Starts on a small ledge above the main ledge (access by ascending a short fixed rope).

Bring a full rack 0.3-3, wires, and doubles of 0.5 and 0.75.

1. 30m (23) A hard start through the roof (feel free to build a cairn if you can't reach the first holds), then powerful moves past 3 bolts to gain the crack proper. This is followed by technical and varied gr21/22 crack/face climbing to a bolted belay below a huge roof.

2. 15m (23) Up to the big roof past 2 bolts, punch through it, then powerful moves to turn the lip. After this, moderate technical face climbing on gear leads to a good ledge and bolted belay. This pitch can easily be combined into the next one.

3. 10m (16) Up the face with spaced gear to ledge. Belay bolts at the back of the ledge.

Rap off first anchor on Sunset Buttress ledge, to hanging belay (shared with Rufus Du Sol). Climb up orange streak with thin crux to cave, continue right through overlap then grey slab.

“Yamata No Orochi, The Death Song of Three Storms”

Start up campus traverse or (potential v8 start (closed)

Then traverse right 5m in clip as you go then blast up for the next forever. There no good rests only shake outs…

Awesome orange rock the entire way!

Contact: Jared Anderson for any heavy breathing content…..

Left of Gaff. Batman start to first ubolt. Three 25cm draws under first roof keeps rope in the right place. Grade 25ish up to hole near top then a powerful finish sequence to holds either side of single ubolt loweroff. Back-clean. Grade to be confirmed. (Last sequence felt harder but route is short)

"I had a black dog...."

Up the technical slab of Solar Power to 6th bolt (clipping 6th bolt not recommended due to drag), then traverse hard left around arete, and up slab to stance below roof. Next, straight up the guts of the crazy steep buttress with increasingly difficult moves, to mantle top out, and 2-bolt belay well back from the topout.