Routes in Hunter Valley

The dangerous basalt chimney. Not recommended.

Start as for STB, but move out left after the first bolt on fixed hangers.

Twin chimneys at the head of the gully as access.

The arete to the left of the chimney

The down climb on the slab

Up to ledge head straight up on layaway to pockets and then crimps and long moves to top

After first 5 bolts of the crack step left to DBB. CLimb up orange overhung wall.

The corner to gain the top of the island.

At the weird rock, through the flake systems.

Crack at left side of chasm to tree, then continue up arete with little gear to anchors of BB/A.

Easiest dyno to the top.

Up the good orange face, watch the ledge.

the slab on the far right. Can sometimes be hit by waves.

Just right of Jetray

Up the V groove on the right side of the Natalia slab

Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going!

Up corner and ledge just right of Formality, then straight up wall to HWL. This is incorrectly shown as MM in the local guide.

Traverse low then up.

Offwidth corner crack following roof left then up. Small trees for anchors. Eats #4 and # 5. Some medium cam placements possible . Will hopefully get a DBB

Following the thin overhanging arete and slopers on the left straight up into the slab. Bonus points for downclimbing through the hole on the other side after a top out.

Traverse right from arete. Easy start and finish.

Access from North side (The Surge side). FHs.

The left of the pillars on upper level. Left arete, mostly climbing on pockets

From pedestal up flake trending left then back right to anchors. Can be done direct via pockets

Start as for TCOM. Upon reaching the horizontal break, move right to finish as for TEOS. Open Project.

Left of arete in gully to shared DBB on block

This route is 60m left of the last route. Fixed hangers up long blocky slab, take care. Need a 70m rope to lower off!

Stand start on jug and up corner.

Right side of the prominent arete to third ring, then hard committing moves to anchors.

Tricky start up to good jug, then bouldery moves up and right past 2nd bolt to gain large scoop. Heady moves leaving scoop and a tough clip to gain slanting seam up and right. Use Trotters Delight lower offs.

Sharp, tough start from ground up to an easier finish. Straight up, starting 4m left of PP start U. Might be a warm-up if you batman to the first bolt.

Start at the bottom of Evita, traverse right onto the slab bout halfway up wall.

The twin cracks to bolt protected offwidth ( hangers needed). Trend left at top ( anchors above Copacabana)

The steep white overhung rock behind the baby pinnacle

Start as for Dr Destructo but head straight up chiney to roof. Step left and finish as for PATGOD. Bolts for abseil descent above BOTT, another 3m through vegetation. Abseil over this climb.

Slab climb past the two hex bolts on the slab, with 2 more bolts on the foot wall before the slab. Finishes at the main DBB anchors. Mixed climbing with RPs through the cruxes. Note- original name unknown.

The wall right of corner crack 'Stockton'. Sit start.

The awesome crack line.

Slabby corner.

The left side of the boulder past a mean sloper.

Follow the massive u bolts up the groove, trending right. Potential for nasty fall between second and third bolt, otherwise a lot of bolts, take 14 quick draws

Sit start. Left side of Where's My Lifeguard arête. Stay off crack and ramp to the left to get the grade

The arete on its right side.

5m left of FCKF up clean slab on U bolts

Seam/ finger crack that bisects the wall.

Sit down start- the leaning corner, might be V3 if you are short

Sit start at block and up face 1m R of sharp column

Traverse L to R along boulder without using top

The corner with ground level sentry box left of the normal start of Pollyfilla. Join that route at half height to finish on HWL

Start as for The Dead Albatross to first bolt, then left to stay left side of arete . Continue up past two little triangular rooflettes. No basalt or bridging to be left. Set up as toprope for now - use fixed hangers backed up with trad, or bolt plates at top of Bicycle Graveyard, or both.

Start 1M right from 'DWS 1', up the crack and trend right from halfway up

John Wildes route starting from ledge into offwidth and then up overhanging arete

Excellent face climb with good moves the whole way. Starts 3m further into the cave past Rent Free.

Slight overhang to the 3rd bolt where the crux is and easier finish.

Start as for 'Colour Card' up the wall to clip its first bolt then traverse left to arete to meet "Wall of Horrors". (The wimps variant to colour card)

Climb the giant flake to the left of Ancient Remnant Direct, passing 2 very old bolts (protruding ~3") that should not be trusted (take big cams). Now possible to lower off the "Nads" double ring anchors.

A vegetated ledge corner just right of ampitheatre

The great flake on the south/western side. Needs some lower belay bolts.

From the start of Traversity head left just above the water

The face climb, right of arête. Easy start up to large hueco with a good cam placement. Sidepull hueco to reach out to thin crack for wire placement, on the right, then use small flake above and good footwork to get to big pocket. A good wire can be placed here, but it’s quite tricky as your hand is in the pocket. You can gingerly reach up to a good 0.4 Camelot, in the crack up from pocket to protect crux move. If you are not confident in your placements, do not go higher as there is ground fall potential with the crux move up and right from pocket Delicate moves gain good crack above and a 1 Camelot placement. Continue straight up following crack and good gear, until you come to a small ledge, head up & left to lower offs. Engaging climbing, good moves with good gear, but committing move at the pocket.

Start on left wall, left of slightly misplaced bolts and after second bolt head right to, and around arete. To shared chain on top of pinnacle

Start from toe of arete and up. Hex bolts.

No so easy when wet!

The offwidth in the middle to a tough finish.

Thin up to an undercling, then more tough holds to top out.

Down climb.

High ball blunt arete.

From hanging belay go straight up wall

Up overhanging finger crack at downstream end of maintain the rage. Bad landing and vegetated op out, so best to down climb.

Corner and crack system, marked with white square and grade (NBC '80s style, though could be more recent)