Routes in Mid North Coast

wall just left of offwidth

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

1m right of PGP. 2 bolts and a fixed hanger, finish as per TM.

Start under block. Optional first bolt clip or skip it. Up orange face to anchors under roof.

Short corner crack then up through breaks to top, natural gear.

5m right of Moon Shadow. Follow crack to top. Finish to the right of tree. Crux at top. Most of the climb is 16-18 but the top move is a little scary and is about 19. Natural Pro and belay.

Up left yellow wall.

Up SF for 1 bolt then step right and up face.

Start at crack 4m right of Antichrist. Up crack to ledge then left up to BR then up onto second ledge and traverse right 5m to top of boulder. Step up onto wall and up to roof then up crux to ledge. Traverse right and up over roof to wall above, aid off last BR to top out at Lost Boys Hideout. DBB. BR, cams, nuts. Watch the rope drag.

Small arete. Start at the corner, follow 4 fixed hangers up the corner / crack to the DBB shared with the other climbs.

Corner at R end of alcove on SE facing wall. Takes large cams. Fixed anchor.

30m left of Sorry, below large, detached block. 1st pitch (20m): Up past 2 ledges to detached block. Delicately up right hand side of block and onto treed ledge. 2nd pitch (30m): Crux. Follow crackline leading diagonally left to short, steep, hanging corner. Up this to big ledge belay. Wlak 80m left around arete to small tree at end of ledge. 3rd pitch (30m): Crux. Up blocks, veering right to crack then traverse left to block, over this and up to ledge below rooves. 4th pitch (15m): Up under rooves, up and left to top. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

10m right of Bealzibbs Revenge. Great route at the grade, often used as a warm up being directly below some abseil chains (top rope). Has it all, hand jam at start, sloper to pocket then pull up, more slopers then mantle on right arm with lay off left hand hold, then finish on edges past left of tree. Great stuff.

About 40m North of 'Alice's Crux' . An overlap crack with a tricky slightly overhanging finish. Chain belay. Great for offsets.

15m right of Bealzibbs Revenge . Straight up to platform using small wires. Has a fun dyno in the middle. Easy if you are tall. Belay at top. Natural Pro.

3 bolt runners and 4 to 5 cams. Start left under overhang and swing around onto face on great holds. Up left past first bolt onto large ledge ('dropledge'). Move to the left side of large ledge and then up past 2nd and 3rd bolts. Three moves here through these bolts to a natural placement is the crux and sweetesh part of the route - very nice moves. Up through pocket with natural placements to top out on next big ledge. Belay of bolt runner straight above and bolt runner 2 m to the right.

Direct route with same start as thunder. First move would be a 19 and don't use the thin crack on the left after gaining first ledge.

The first route climbed at Wonderland and reported in the first guide as 'the finest crack at the cliff'. Climb the corner crack to the tree.

The left, overhanging crack to small tree belay. Requires a full rack.

Up short wall (2 bolts) then up flared crack to a slightly overhanging finish (trad gear) to a bolt belay.

A great wall route with superb moves on great rock. 3 bolts and trad gear.

Up wall using small cams.

About 15 m right of Bitter Fingers, just past the small ridge. Up wall past one bolt. Same finish as Exterminator.

Starts in the middle of the slab 5m right of "Grab The Gristle". Directly up with good gear in the breaks then punch through the overhang. Climb up then left to a tree belay.

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

The major offwidth corner just right of Wet Dreams. #5 cam at the start, #4 in the middle then traverse left to chain above Wet Dreams.

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

3m right of Stranger in a Strange Land and just right of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts.

The first climb to the right of the descent gully. Just left of the big tree. Up past 2 bolts to the top.

2m right of ‘Enema Tree’. Nice climbing on good but hard to find natural gear through small overhang up face to left of arete. DBB.

Start as for ‘Parting Gesture’. Traverse right to arete then up pastdubious gear to DBB. Excellent top rope route

1m right of corner. Face climb. 1BR and small wire. Bring medium cams for belay.

3 BR's & NP at start

3 BR's and NP

The next arete right of SAND CASTLES. All natural pro, take a full rack of small sizes. An intense arete that becomes an easier wall. 2 bolt belay. This one for the purist.

The face 3m right of the 'Shower Recess'. Up to horizontal break (cam) then up steep wall past one or two bolts to a double bolt belay.

A juggy looking wall with poor pro up high. A large cam about half height, a 1/2 inch Hero loop over the chicken head and a small wire for pro.

1.5 metres left of 'Chicken Heros'. Up easy slab to bolt with fixed hanger. An interesting sequence leads past this then pad on up to double bolt belay. (No bolts between first and anchor).

Great little short wall, out of the sun. Good small holds, pumpy. 2 bolts and a cam.

The black wall right of STEAMER.

The obvious roof just right of the approach trail. 4 BR's and a small cam down low. 2 BR's are next to each other at the start of the hard bit. Belay back on trees. Was originally graded 22 (in the days when climbing roofs was a new thing).

The short wall in an alcove, 1m right of COSMIC ENERGY. This moves up the short wall. 2 carrots and 1 bolt plus tree belay.

Just right of DECEIVING DECISIONS. Up short wall, thin moves to top, 3 carrot bolts.

Finger crack 8m right of The Shadow. Up crack then veer right to another crack then up wall to chains. BRs, cams & nuts

Start as for Antichrist but exit small roof at 5m on the right side. Up obvious corner and crack to Lost Boys Hideout. Natural pro, belay at chains.

Start as per TBBB but at ring bolt go straight up and right to another ring then straight up to gain crack and then to chains

left wall on the face. Tricky start

Mixed route of zigzagging cracks with anchors

Up slab and around right side of tree and steeper rock to anchors on ledge. Good varied climbing with a bit of loose rock up high.

Possibly the worst, documented route in the Coffs Area. An adventure route that is the antithesis of the neighboring sport climbs. About 30 m past the White Wall, before you get to the main Deliverance Area.

1. 15m. Delicately up the orange, chossy, corner crack to the base of the chimney.

2. 15m. Struggle and stem your way up the flairing off-width/chimney on reasonable rock until you reach the overhanging soil. Detour left around the arete onto poorly protected slopers and bushes before crawling across a ledge back into the main crack system.

3. 5m. Enjoy a surprisingly nice stemming crack to the summit.

Straight up middle of white wall. Fun moves on great stone.

Start as for FSA then veer right and up thin slab to anchors on ledge

Start at yellow paw print on wall at knee height. 1m right of PGADITHP, 2 bolts to rings.

Up featured wall 5m left of andy goodvibes

Start as for HOC or there is an optional direct start. Up wall to mantle ledge and anchor under roof.

The left side of the arete.

The arete 5/6m right of 'Adder'. Start around on the right face. Use brass offset or RP past first BR. A little contrived but generally follow arete and BR's. Beware Chossy rock. 5 BR's plus 2 natural. DB Belay.

Unknown entity. left line of hangers to chains

Nice height easy boulder, with a cactus perched on a little ledge. Traverse around the cactus and continue to the top.. down climb to the left.

Sit start to the right of the boulder. Traverse left and link up with boarding party.

SDS and up to the sloper rail, left and up.

SDS on pockety crimps, straight up. no slope rail.

SDS right down on jugs and travere slopy jug rail round to secret love heart face.

Juggy roof on right hand end of the crag, past rock orchids.

Crouch start below the obvious roof to mantle top out.

Slopers and undercling to juggy top. A grade harder without the underclings.

Crack. Stay off the faces for full value.

SDS in under roof on L side of flake/crack. Jug on R-side of flake is out. To horn on lip and up.

Left side of roof.

South East arete. A knife edge arete with some fine moves.

South face, 1.5m to right of SW arete. Start is slightly overhanging up to first ledge. Then on to second ledge and on to top

7m right of Hedron. Start on ledge. Thin pro at start. Sling up top around large rock for belay on small ledge.

Start about 5m left of Cinders. Straight up crack for about 12m - natural pro. After clipping first ring bolt head slightly left and up thru open book corner past one more ring bolt and natural pro to chains

First move is more a 18/19. For an easier start move left about half way between Thunder and Toe Wacker - move up for about half a move then traverse to bolt. Probably more in-keeping with the overall grade. Clip first bolt then NP to top. Same top section as TW. Sweet hand Jam just above 2nd pro. Follow the NP line taking you around the right of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

Start on face right of pepper. 5 bolt runners plus natural. Might be a good one to practice with two ropes. Up face to first BR. NP to gain 2nd BR. Straight up a little left of overhang to gain BR on overhang face. Travers across to the right to big ledge. Clip BR then up onto face, then traverse left passed two BR's. Continue slightly left and up running it out to big ledge on left. Continue left traverse to chain on left above large ledge.

Vere left for 3m from start, 2NP one near start for belayer/2nd. Slight run out after 2nd pro. Straight up for next bit, 2 BR's, then a NP. Vere left 1.5m along a ledge to next BR, the NP belay. Easy top pitch with a couple of NP. Go around to the right of small tree near top. If doing in one pitch watch for rope line.

It is also possible to traverse to the bolt belay on Chilli Sauce to climb it as a single pitch with lower-off.

2 pockets and a hueco to a slabby face. 3 bolts, fun climb, trad belay. Was originally bolted and climbed but not documented in the 1990s.

The first climb at the base of the descent gully. Don't use the block to begin or your legs will automatically explode. Climb the arete past 2 bots and some small wires. Trad belay as for Whipping Boy.

Wall 2m right of Punters and Collectors. 1 bolt plus trad gear to tree anchor.

The left of two cracks 1m apart. Small cams and then step left to chains. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

Up wall past bolts then past a slight overhang and another bolt. Trad belay.

Through the breaks to a cave.

2m right of ‘KBCB’. Good climbing poor protection. Better to tope rope. DBB.

2m right of TT. 1BR, Medium wires, Natural belay.

The first bolted route in the Coffs area! Start at the arete next to SANDMAN. Clip the first two bolts then move onto the face, 2 more bolts and a steep little wall to finish. Bolts can be supplemented with gear if required. Belay from a tree about 10m back from the cliff.

The wall/arete right of THE RAW. It'll keep you guessing. 1 bolt plus trad gear.

An excellent climb, named after the friendly Glenreagh Pub. The Pub burnt down during winter 1991 but was rebuilt. The classic Golden Dog statue was added in 2011. A good long route. The left leaning, diagonal crack to the cave then up the wider crack to top. Tree belay.

Right of SUMMER. A crack in a steep wall next to the big Blackbutt tree. Natural pro. Strenuous start, scary in the middle and a tricky finish. A lot of fun.

2m right of WALT DISNEY'S PICKING STRAWBERRIES. A crack then wall. Small cams and 2 bolts. Be gentle on the footholds up high. Quite nice.

A couple of metres right of STEAMY WINDOWS. A little contrived but an excellent route if you keep over to the left. Steep and juggy to start, leading to a flake and easy finish. 1 bolt plus small trad gear to tree belay.

A steep jam crack, better than it looks.

One of the first routes done here. A wide corner rack, bridge and jam.

Perfect on a hot sunny day. Up the wall just right of (and perpendicular to) ROOM WITH A VIEW. 3 bolts. Beautiful!

Start up crack 1m right of Captain America to ledge and climb up following the large flake right and back left to the ledge above reach up and clip the BR before hauling up over the roof on big jugs to DBB in Dead Man's Cave. Bring natural pro 1 BR.

Approx 10m left of The Battle of Evermore. Up blocky broken corner crack to chains at 20m. Then up wide crack to a tricky finish to chains at Lost World Wall. All natural.

Climb Chimney as for Rat attack then traverse right on underclings to gain crack and flake. Up past a couple of bolts to anchors on the right of the tree.

Climb Rat Attack and step left under roof

Some meters east of OSS. Start as per Camo Corner. At first ledge traverse left under tree and around corner where a few more moves will take you to the main arete. Step left around the corner onto the next face to clip two rings before making a mantle finish. Rap rings are a metre to the right. Belay your buddy from here and rap off if you like your rope.