Routes in Northwest Slopes and plains for selected grade

Up the arete.

Start as for Meritorious, but at ledge go left to arête. DBB above on slab, not for lowering off. Move right to chain anchor to clean.

The climb to the left of the cave, It might be wise to stick clip the second bolt if not confident.

50m left of start of east face. At the toe of the first black buttress, heading up and right to prominent overhanging dihedral. The route runs below this to belay at stance level with top of dihedral. Then up open corner to top. 22 faintly initialled at start

1. 30m (19) 12 quickdraws. Can abseil from chains to ground

2. 15m (22) 6 quickdraws. Up to DBB. Walk off.

bolted hanging crack 1m left of 'Capricious'.

sit start with left footer, use face crimps and arete trending right.

Sit start matched on large sidepull with feet out right in a layback position. Left hand far left into sloper, move feet left. Right hand intermediate then up up to decent crimp. Left hand up to good edges then up to various jugs for top out.

Stick clip first bolt. Start on right side face, climb around blunt arete to undercling seem following U bolts to top.

Stemming groove and hanging arête 10 m R of BOB. Belay back off trees. Take C3s for the groove. A single bolt protects the crux move into the corner.

Start as for DMG first bolt, but go direct, steeply passing 3 more FHs to join finger to hand crack to pedestal. Then up middle of buttress following intermittent cracks through 2 rooflets. Solid protection with single rack from micro cams to #2, and many wires from large RP size up( offsets useful). Same anchors on ledge as ExSlovenian. Easily toproped after doing that route.

Start 5m left of the the No Trachyte for old Men corner. Up wall, through roof and up to the undercut block passing 5 bolts. A short section of technical jambs and laybacks gains the perfect hands corner, above which a cam protected wall, leads up and right to double bolt anchors. Caution: 70m rope needed to lower or double ropes to rappel.

The sharp overhanging arete 15 m right of waterfall. Start on ground, not up ramp. Optional small finger size wire or cam after last bolt. Optional small wires to start, or use a long stick. Walk back to DBB.

10 m left of ES, up rib of rock aiming for corner and roof. Move right under roof to semi hanging belay at 30 m or continue to top. Belay at 2 FHs. Cannot abseil from these, abseil possible over SPE with care.

The RP seam crack at the crux provides some real mental stimulation. One of the best wall routes at Kaputar, with a real Moonarie feel in the lower-half. Starts 2m left of Malice Through the Looking Glass. Climb flakes for 10m to seam. Fill it with as many tiny wires as you can then launch boldy up face on good holds to better protection. Finish up quality handcrack to trad belay.

UP 'Back Roads' for a couple of moves, then right and up wall (BR) to groove.

Great sustained climbing up arête and face to right, but poorly protected with minimal worthwhile gear between the BR until the last 10 metres. However it was originally climbed with only 3 BR and TheFA does not wish the route to be retro bolted. Start right of arête to first BR, then up to arête at roof. Follow arête before moving back right to face and corner , the follow corner until you can step left into another crack that leads to chain anchor shared with EOE

Starts left of corner, stepping across right, then left again after some friable rock to thin crack. Shares last bolt and anchors with DMG

Start on edge and side pull, move up to the good feature, and establish a heel and palm press. Very little up higher so the top out is committing, so trust the feet and mantle. Great climb.

Start down, right of Revival. Follow bolts up yellow rock through overlap just left of arête to chains

MIXED route. FHs to chains with one small wire needed. Climb yellow crumbly face past bolts then left through roof and over grey rock (wire) to ledge. Small wire and finger sized cams useful to supplement last bolt which has a sleeve sticking out 1 cm.Chain belay. Start 4 m L of revival block and just to left of 15% direct start.

Stand start matched on the good sloper. Move up, pinch, high foot and layback. Mantle on the mossy jugs. Great climb.

Up the wall left of PS. The start has a little gear down low then is unprotected until you gain the crack. An alternate start that is still run out can be done via the first 3 bolts of Drongoland to the left. Continue up crack to twin cracks up high. Double ropes useful. Abseil chains on ledge above.

About 8m to the right of Lightning. Some reachy moves.

A superb climb that takes a rising traverse line from 'Acid Test' to about The Promised Land including a daunting traverse of the main roofs. Exposed, Sustained and spectacular.

Start: As for 'Acid Test'

1. 40m (20) Up through bulges and traverse rightwards from second triangular overhang, along lip of overhangs into shallow corner. Hard moves around nose as for Forbidden Delights, and easy rising line into next corner (bottom of 'The Real McCoy' corner). Drop down and around onto slab. Up and right to bottom of 'Twilight Time' corner.

2. 30m (20) Horizontally below corners into Sago Entree. Across to and up the short V-groove of 'Iconoclast' to its main line. Right and slightly up to obvious jug on arete. Traverse horizontally across two awkward black walls to foot ledge in 'Gun Control'.

3. 15m (20) Traverse horizontally right to good ledge on nose (high runners in crack). Along boldly to next crack (White Heat) and up to pedestal.

4. 18m (23) Horizontally around blunt nose and continue with increasing difficulty into recess capped by large black overhangs. Across to first belay os 'Sky Pilot'.

5. 25m (21) Across into maze of blocky overhangs. Trend to far top righthand corner to make an exciting exit into crackline. Follow crack for about 10m and move right to small ledge at bottom of black corner.

6. 25m (22) Straight around nose to yellow corner. Continue across wall into another corner, up to roof and move right into hanging corner. Bold bridging up to hanging belay about 5m below roof.

7. 42m (18) Traverse across 3 grooves and down slightly to obvious footledge on skyline arete. Up and across below line of roofs, around end and up clean crack to top.

Takes the soaring line 5m left of 'Pomp and Circumstance'.

1. 42m (22) (equal crux) Up the line to where a broken crack goes up the left wall. A hanging belay can be taken here on SLCD's or do as the first ascensionists did - (traverse right to a small sloping ledge)

2. 50m (22) (equal crux) Continue up the main line curving left to the lowest part of the small overhang. Through overhang and up for 5m to join crack on right side of arete. Up more easily to top.

Lay away the thin seam 5m right of Fools Gold. Start on ramp. Optional cam or nut in pocket between first and second bolts. DBB

Protection on the crux adequate but difficult to place.

Start: Just left of 'White Heat'

1. 30m (22) (crux) Climb a small pillar of broken rock, moving left at about head height to incipient crack with overhang at about 10m. Up this to semi-hanging belay.

2. 50m (-) Continue up line taking in the roof with diagonal crack.

3. 30m (-) Easily to top

Start on side pull and awkward high sloper. Smear and establish high foot. The crux is the slopey arete with some fairly dynamic moves. Mantle to finish. Possibility for a sit start.

Start at flakes in middle of wall. Up with C3 s and wires in thin crack to right of flakes for protection, to pass roof on left side. Green and red C3 essential at this point. Move up then right to join crack which widens, then from ledge step right and slab up line of least resistance to white gum belay above BoB.

The first route on the short grey wall below the terrace that Peeving Parrots starts on. Short and stout but well worth it!

An imposing black corner with BT clearly initialled at start. Described as a serious lead in the Colyvan guide. Trad belay.

Starts at the toe of the second black buttress, 3 m left of BC. Up for 5 bolts on poor rock then goes left and through 2 roofs on better rock to DBB at 30 m. Route realigned on some small aperture hangers, take narrow profile quickdraws.

Start 2m R of the arête right of BT. Follows right trending groove into centre of wall, onto a pillar ( stacked blocks) to ledge and then up short right facing corner to top. 3 expansion BR. Friable rock.

15 m L of Barely credible and about 15 m R of where the wall changes direction down towards the base of the orange buttress. Large white streaks on the rock. This follows a R trending blocky ramp. Pitch 1 30 m grade 19. High first bolt, follow poor rock for 30 m to belay at chain. Possible to abseil from here. Pitch 2 16 m up on better rock with hard move through bulge 19 A0, or grade 22 to top out

Start: The corner 2m right of 'Spook'. Marked.

Up corner to roof then step right to bolt. Through overlap and up black seam on thin face moves. Old chains at 50 metres.

The face left of BOB.

Undercut start on left side of arete and up left face, heading right to anchors before slab. Anchors fixed hangers only at present with single maillion.

The left of 2 seams in an alcove with orange rock ."22" chiselled at base. Head out onto arête when out of groove, then back right on face to shared anchor with the 23.

Best not to fall. Slabby highball problem with delicate balance moves. Crimps if you can find them.

The right of the seams in the orange alcove. Up steeply then right onto face and back left over small roof to shared anchors. "23" chiselled at base.

Right of WY, start off boulder, done originally pulling on aid bolt to overcome undercut buttress. Step left and up wall direct. Was 21 M0, now free. Chain belay with single carabiner.

Apparently bolted but never climbed by Peter Wehr. Now readily accessed by Climbing AIDL, making a great second pitch, or rap in off bolts above GOW.

Start from top of block just left of large pillar that is leaning on main wall. Good 0.75 in undercling to left, then step left into thin seam that runs up blunt arête. A set of TCUs and cams to 0.75 and a good medium wire. DRBB

Start as for Rotten Scoundrel, 2m R of LIS, climb over loose roof, into orange groove then head right to ledge, then straight up superb wall to anchor. Rest taken on final bolt on FA

This replaces Bum Leeper, the crux pitch of which was destroyed by falling rock. For full details of the rationale for the changes see the description for 'Bum Leeper'.

Start: 2m left of the original start of 'Bum Leeper'.

1. 40m (-) Climb up for about 20 metres to a groove which slants leftwards. Climb this, exiting with difficulty close to the first belay of 'Bum Leeper'.

2. 30m (23) (crux). This is the new pitch which replaces the original second pitch of 'Bum Leeper' which was destroyed by a rock fall. Move left and up to the bottom of a right-facing, clean corner. (It has a fine crack in its left wall which will take small gear). Up this with difficulty at start.

3. 23m (-) Move slightly right and up the corner above.

Stemming groove to finger/hand crack, just right of Fools Gold. #0.25 cam break between 2nd and 3rd bolts, finger to hand size gear to the top

Starts on buttress at right hand end of sector. Stick clip high bolt to protect bouldery start, then up slightly right into thin crack that takes small gear to finger size. DBB as for arete on left, or belay on slab and finish up NCM pitch 2.

Very thin crack 4m left of arête, next to pillar, straight up to tree anchor 2/3 of way up cliff. Thin gear in bottom 2/3, #1 cam useful in horizontal half height

The bolted face left of Freudian Slip.

1. 30m (23) Climb orange wall on good in-cuts past an area of friable rock (was done at 21 with 2 aid bolts) and go up left on grey rock to belay ledge and rap chains. This is a sport pitch.

2. 20m (19) Step right into Freudian Slip and follow main crack then left groove at top to chains. Trad gear to 2”.

Start off block left of pillar leaning against wall as for LT. Up Past bolt to gain finger crack that continues up from the top of the pillar to share anchors with LT. Gear to #1. Lots of small cams.

Balancy start L of blunt arete. Crimp to top.

Choss to roof using dead tree as for TOTT. The climbing then rapidly improves. Instead of stepping right continue straight up line on small but excellent gear. Surmount flake and continue up hand crack, stepping left to exit at top, as for final corner of DS.

Up through bulge then thin crack up wall (2BRs).

Start: 4m left of 'The Idle Rich'

Compression problem left of Barbed Wire

Right end of roof 8m right of Stiff Upper Lip. Start Marked. Up blind corner to roof moving right to second roof (tricky pro) then into corner and up.

A committing lead. Start at the crack to the left of The Prow.

1. 45m (22) (equal crux) Crack and wall climbing to belay ledge on the left at height of small overhang.

2. 20m (22) (equal crux) Step back right into crack. Follow this to the top with some wall climbing.

Start Marked to right of Cold Shoulder. Up crack corner to second bulge. Hard layaway over bulge (poor pro), up crack to mantle and dyno.

The crack through the cave roof.

Starts on top of pointed boulder and heads to chain belay after surmounting large block, going up its right side.

The groove up the centre of the ampitheatre to DBB. Starts at small pedestal onto column and steps right as it starts to steepen into main line.

Approx. 20m R of Twist of the Wrist. A seam leads R to a crack corner. Up wall L of seam (BR), then seam to corner (BR) and crack.

Sit start on opposing side-pulls of the undercut block. Work your way up the right hand rail before stepping left onto the face, then up and over through a thin top-out.

L one of two cracks in impressive short wall. Up to BR, Step R, then up on jugs to two BRs. Up (PR) to crack. Up.

A long and sustained first pitch (best to do it in two pitches, belaying off double bolts), Double Ropes essential (make sure they are both a full 50m). Take one bolt bracket, eleven quick draws and a #1 Friend to back up the single bolt belay, and some wires to protect the short easier second pitch.

Start: The first slab on the main slabby face, right at the left-hand corner, a couple metres left of 'Freedom Crack'.

1. 50m Use a stick to clip the first bolt, then climb (crux) directly up to it. Move up and left delicately to next bolt (a fall before clipping this results in a ground fall), then continue up broken flakes to cleaner friction slabs above and double bolts. Some parties belay here Continue up smooth slab to horizontal break, step up over this to bolt belay.(#1 Friend in break at your feet).

2. 30m Straight up the final short crack as for 'Snakeskin Flake', then continue up to belay at trees.

1. 20m (22) Through broken bulge wiht poor pro and up seam on wall to good ledge on right (first belay on 'Pomp and Circumstance').

2. 15m (23) (crux) Up crack as for 'Pomp and Circumstance' for 8m, then em left and up short corner to small stance on right.

3. 40m (21) Up, 1m right in to twin cracks and up wall and corner.

Get up close and personal with the roofs. As you climb directly underneath them and traverse into the final moves of the great barrier roof.

Start: Up pillar as for 'Gun Control'

1. 20m (17) Start up pillar as for 'Gun Control'. Head up under the roof and then continue along directly under the rising roofs to the right. Belay at nest of slings where 'Sky Pilot' breaks through the roof.

2. 10m (22) Step right and up 2m to place an excellent piece high in roof before descending down 1m and across 5m to make break in top of great barrier roof. Remember to consider your second!! A good knee and a couple of jambs might help before making a good stance above the roof with a view back to the last belay.

3. 50m (17) Continue up crack 6m then traverse right 5m under and around small roof to make arete. Follow obvious crack line to the top.

Start: The slab between 'Snakeskin Flake' and 'New Romantic'. It needs a direct finish and a bold leader.

1. 30m Straight up the slab via 4 BRs then traverse left to the double bolt belay of 'Slap And Tickle'

2. 30m As for 'Slap And Tickle'.

Start: At the V-groove and wall 8m left of 'The Resistance Principle'.

1. 30m (-) Up V-groove and wall then right around base of square cut pedestal and up to ledge. Up crack on left to top of small pinnacle, then down other side to alcove and ledge.

2. 15m (22) Straight up for 7m, right and up around arete to small grassy ledge.

3. 45m (22) Up twin cracks to PR and wire placement, up until angle eases. Up wall.

Start: At the slab 2m. left of the original corner crack start. A very scary direct start to the original route. Feeling lucky?

Straight up the black slab passing to the left of the first bolt(but clip it). It joins the original route at the second bolt. Continue as for original route.

Start: 3m right of tree halfway between 'Pomp and Circumstance' and 'The Resistance Principle'.

1. 30m (18?) Up incipient crack to top of pedestal on right.

2. 10m (18?) Up left to deep crack which leads to second belay on 'Pomp and Circumstance'.

3. 45m (22) As for Pitch 3 of 'Pomp and Circumstance'.

10m right of LIS, climb crumbly rock to excellent overhanging corner and shared chains. Accidentally retro bolted by Barley, who then discovered it had been climbed by Carrigan in 1997, and some bolts were removed. Studs with nuts are remnant.

Start: As for 'Borrowed Time'.

1. 50m (22) Straight up main corner to stance.

2. 30m (-) Up the corner.

The thin crack-line which weaves up the the right wall of 'Borrowed Time' corner.

Start: 5m right of 'Borrowed Time'.

1. 47m (-) Boulder start then up line to sloping ledge.

2. 43m (-) Up crack to ledge, then up cracked arete.

Bolts to gear to chains. 2m right of LIS, climb friable orange pockets, cross right to bottomless crack and climb on good gear.

Start on the left same as Abducted but stay out slightly to avoid using the arkward hand jam and reach over the top to the sharp jug or crack.

"Spend a year in a couple of hours on the edge of Beasley Street" John Cooper Clarke

Start: 3m left of 'Micawber'.

1. 30m (-) Up obvious weakness, going left up the wall around roof to SHB.

2. 35m (22) (crux) Step right, up, then back left under overlap and straight up line to easier ground.

3. 38m (-) Up more easily.

A fine crackline.

Start: Below two tiered roof, about 5m right of 'White Heat'.

1. 30m (23) (crux) Take corner crack directly below two tiered roof for about 8m, traverse left on horizontal crack into first crackline which splits the side of the buttress. Up crack to belay stance.

2. 40m (-) Follow natural line to top.

Interesting start through middle of overhangs 12m right of Iron Contract to #2 RP and fixed #2 RP higher up. Up line.

A sustained penetration of huge overhangs.

Start: As for 'Blood on the Moon'.

1. 30m (23) crux) Up shattered wall to orange offwidth, traverse directly right on lip of overhang to arete, up arete to horizontal undercling, traverse left and up crack splitting top overhangs.

2. 37m (-) Follow natural line to top.

Same start holds as GS, but from the pinch move left and down into jug, then up the obvious line to a rail over the lip.

Start: At the seam 8m left of 'The Millionaire Touch'.

1. 25m (-) Up the seam to small overhang, right and up past BR Up more steeply (BR and fixed wire), then left at easier angle (fixed wire) to HDBB.

2. 22m (23) (crux) Step out and left past BR, then traverse 3m left with feet just above overhangs to good crack. Up this until you can move left to crack on arete. Up to SHB.

3. 33m (-) Up line.

Starts on left hand sidepull, and right hand sloping crimp. High foot, slap in, pull over, bish, bash, bosh.

Start: Below right hand end of main overhangs, left of 'The Promised Land'.

1. 40m (22) (crux) Up orange rock to right of overhanging buttress. Traverse left into dihedral up middle of buttress. Up this to roof with V-crack on left, over roof to stance.

2. 40m (-) Up line.