Routes in Northern Rivers for selected grade

3m R of Sherlock Hemlock. 6 FH’s to anchor. Easy scramble past first bolt to ledge and clip, then solid rock to finish. Tricky crimps on good feet to high reach past bulge at fourth bolt.

4m R. 8 FH’s to anchor. High first bolt above the big crater feature, then enjoyable varied climbing on good rock with a steep and tricky finish. Low in the grade.

Not many routes of this grade are this steep. Starts up on a high, sandy platform. Juggy short wall to very unlikely roof flake ending at anchors in the middle of an otherwise blank wall. Belayer must wear a helmet as the flake likes giving free samples. Extension is Lee's gift to Adam Ondra and is open.

There has been concerns raised about the stability of the large flake by a number of climbers who have recently been on this route. It is very difficult to assess the stability of a feature like this, and the probability of serious rockfall. But the potential outcomes can be managed by being mindful of where the belayer and onlookers are located.

8m R. 6 FH’s to anchor. Reachy, bouldery climbing on steep, bomber rock to finish on big ledge. An interesting mix of slabby and steep sections

Climbs the white-rock section to very high anchors on smooth slab.

2m R. Jug hauling on severely overhanging territory - should be popular. 5 bolts to low anchor just after the big break. Take care with the third clip.

R-leaning crackline and arete. Some tricky moments passing the first bolt.

Stickclip bouldery start then balancy climbing which will pump your left arm. FH’s.

Start 3m to the R of original. 2 FH's then up and L into Abandonment Issues.

Classic and quite sequency. The clean line located in the middle of the buttress, below the R slanting flake ending at a lower-off.

Start under arete. 2m right of TB. Climb along arete.

Read warning below. This route does have bolts with SS carrots but they are quite well spaced apart at about 5 metres so pucker factor is a major issue. Top pitches are very sparsely bolted with 20 metre run outs. As this climb is rarely done algal growth can obscure the bolts. full trad rack is also necessary. There is a 110 metre traverse on the lip of a huge roof. Ability to re ascend a rope is a must in this area for self rescue if fallen off route you'll be dangling 100 metres above the apron. Possibility of a bivy ledge one pitch above traverse ledge. Two people can squeeze on to this tight ledge. There is a descent option from the top of this climb however finding the start to the rap route is problematic. Good luck finding it. Best option is to find start at bottom. Start is around 2/3rds across left from descent gully.

Abseil descent has had it's anchors replaced as of early July 2020. All anchors are SS.

Warning.

Recent ascent by Duncan Steel. He describes the top several pitches as having deteriorated badly since he did it 15 years ago. We discussed why and we came to a consensus that the black lichen and the north facing cliff bakes in the summer sun and the skin of the rock exfoliates in the very high summer sun. This route really needs renovation and a retro bolt. Duncan warms that this climb is no trivial matter and death or very serious injury could result from anyone just turning up and having a go.

5m R of the warty tree. Up to first BR at the patch of white lichen. Traverse R and up to second BR. Up to FH and crux. Clip fourth BR and you're there. Chain belay.

start just left of tree

awesome

For those who stop halfway. Cthulhu will eat your children.

The splitter crack - all trad, starting at the huge, deep pockets just off the ground. Bouldery start. Cool roof to negotiate at ⅔ height. Some friable rock above here, but opportunity to get lots of gear in. Bolted rap station. Take wires and a double rack of cams to #4 BD size.

Starts on the ledge. Walk 10m R of previous route (around rocks) and scramble up a chute onto the ledge. Start up short black corner then climbs blocky orange and grey rock.

Sit Start low on crimp rail. Pounce to hole, then span up long to the right and top out.

Sit start on the low crimp rail. Pounce to hole and slide sideways through big holds to top out up the arete

Can only be done when sand level is super low.

Eliminate thin side pull, dyno from jug to break.

Get down low and go.

From pockets straight up.

From pockets up and then join J13.

tricky, balancy

Scuttle up ramp or mantle ledge past bolt to start. Straight up on good rock and some tricky to read moves. Cuts left then back right to finish at same anchors.

1. 40m (22) Start up Easement but move R before chains following FH's up and then L to steep wall. Crank L and up weakness in this steep headwall past numerous FH's to slab then to chain belay.

2. 20m (19) Up slab above past big flake and numerous FH's to tree belay.

Start sitting over hole, don't fall down it!

Halfway anchors to aid in lowering off route with shorter ropes (60m rope is absolute minimum, 70m recommended). some valuable climbing in the lower half of the route but the top is where da party's at.

From break slap right arete to pockets on face.

Great rock with fun crux at lip of roof.

Up to scoop and BR. Onwards past another three BR's to chain belay.

Low jug at back right to jug on lip with feet under roof, mantel.

Start is high on the vegetated slabs on the far right hand end of the Shield. Finding the start is the crux I am sure but if one were to head over to the descent gully then work back say 50 metres and then head somewhat up then that is an approximation of where to go.The start is also about 80 metres up the vegetated apron. there is an obvious chimney on the wall proper.

1. 22 40m (direct) - Up chimney following crack system past a bolt and piton. Trad belay.

   Alternate: 15 45m (off to the right) - Up chimney then cut to the right to a small ledge, then veer back left to the crack system passing a spearlilly along the way. trad belay.

2. 15 40m - Continue following crack system to double rap station.

3. 18 55m - Continue following crack system past more spear lillies and a small overlap that is easier than it looks. Belay off spear lillies and a small tree.

4. 16 55m - Continue following crack system through exposed section with good gear. Continue past more spear lillies.

5. 5 30m - Scramble through increasing vegetation to top.

Steep, juggy and pumpy along the lip of cave to join 'M.M' and finish at lower off above headwall. DO NOT lower off single chain of 'M.M' unless you clip last perma draw from sit down pocket! Kinda chossy and sandy, but still worth a brush and send if you like steep climbs, hopefully it cleans up a little with some traffic.

Right hand side pull to left hand pinch on small sharp arete, stay on arete to top.

Weakness just L of Penial Warts. Four BR's and chain belay. Really just a variant start to Penile Warts as it joins it at the second BR.

Belay near small fig tree at right hand end of cave. Follow U bolts out past pocket breaks with bad feet to a few stiff moves then jugs to chain.

Start at warty tree. Up corner to small tree stump. Clip BR on L then up to second BR and traverse to the L. Up past another two BR's and a small wire over the lip if you feel it is required, then up to chain belay.

Stand start on jug and go straight up. Bring several pads as the fall isnt fun

Gaston up middle of face to jugs.

Start as for Wasp. Up to ledge at 5m, then up to BR. Continue up past small cam and another four BR's. From fifth BR trend L to chain belay.

Awkward start on jugs on right side, thin to pocket in middle of block at top.

Side pull to pocket and crimps, often dirty at top!

Good arete with a reach.

Contrived low start, avoid leaning block with toe hook.

Follow holds on left side of block using smaller blocks for feet at start.