Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V8 | |||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Black Dog Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Black holes
Amazing line of pockets, try not to cross up hands in sequence. A must do! FA: Anthony Alexander, 2001 | ||||
27 | |||||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
27 | ★★ Iron Crossed Chaos
A link of Chaos Roof and Where Iron Crosses Grow. Start as for Chaos Roof. Up past the first few bolts to the roof and instead of pulling the roof move, step L and up into the roof of WICG. FA: MB, Jan 2018 | 25m, 6 | |||
V6 | |||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Breeze Way boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Scenic
Superb Grampians rock on a cool overhung arête feature. Low sit start and power through some compression moves past the break to the final big crimp move and top out. Possibly done previous to this ascent? FA: Alexander Bunyip, 1999 | 4m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Black Dog Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★ Black dog
Dyno from low central pocket to large pocket, traverse left on pockets to large pebble then up. FA: Anthony Alexander, 1998 | ||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Chicane Boulder | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Pebbles
Technical highball FA: Jason Piper, 2010 | ||||
V5/6 | |||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Golden Glamour Boulder | |||||
V5/6 | ★★★ Stoned Bogan
Brilliant line on superb orange rock. Originally done with old couch cushions and a swag for mats! FA: Anthony Alexander, 1997 | 5m | |||
26 | |||||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
26 | ★★★ Cosmic Trash
Superb rock and nice face climbing. Starts 2m R of SJ follow the thin R leaning line up the wall staying approx 2m R of SJ the whole way. FA: MB, 3 Nov 2015 | 25m, 8 | |||
26 | ★★ Where Iron Crosses Grow
Steep with a difficult move to reach the lip. Start as for OE or LWF and climb either of these for the first 5m before stepping onto the arête. Follow this to the first roof, step R under this, up a move then a hard move out L to the lip. Finish up the face to the lower off on OE below the death choss at top. Set: Matt Brooks, 8 May 2017 FA: MB, Jan 2018 | 25m, 5 | |||
V5 | |||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Lookout | |||||
V5 | ★ Broken Glass Traverse
Start at small broken flake under boulder, traverse left along big rail. Hooks and smears. FA: Alexander Bunyip, 2003 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Finger Bang
Tricky start in crack. FA: Alexander Bunyip, 2004 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Snake Eyes
Mats and a good spot here. FA: Alexander Bunyip, 2004 | ||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Breeze Way boulder | |||||
V5 | Prime Real Estate
Start R on L and traverse up L on jugs and slopes to final crimp crusher move of Scenic FA: Matt & Matt Brooks | 6m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Breezy Traverse | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Summit Jugs
L to R and back again if you strong enough, mega rock and holds with bad feet FA: Matt Brooks, 15 Apr 2016 | 10m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Hermits Garden | |||||
V5 | ★★★ The Hermits Garden
Long and highball. Mantle into the cave on the L and traverse the break with average feet before following the pockets up the wall to the high break. FA: Matt Brooks, 15 Apr 2016 | 6m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Chicane Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★★ BAM BAM
Highball on crimps and pebbles FA: Anthony Alexander | ||||
25 | |||||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
25 | ★★★ Disorientation
Superb steep and technical climbing, packs in a lot for 20m. Line heading up R from C. Climb C till the 4th RB then head R and up the steep wall, keep L of the slab corner. FA: MB, 2015 Set: Aug 2015 | 20m, 8 | |||
24 | |||||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
24 | ★★ Space Junk
Excellent climbing on good rock. Small corner just R of CD for a few moves. Where CD traverses L, climb thin, R-leaning crack. Follow this thin line (crux) to horizontal. Finish up corner. If crux is too hard, climb up L and traverse R along horizontal to finish the line (23). FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989 | 40m | |||
24 | ★★ Battle Scars
Start 3m L of CD. Make some hard moves diagonally R to a jug then up a short crack to a horizontal. Step L 2m then straight up over the Arapiles style bulge to the finish. FA: MB, Feb 2015 | 20m | |||
24 | ★ Controversy
L of TL is a prominent arete with a steep R face. Follow the R side of this arete. FA: Mar 2015 | 15m, 6 | |||
V4 | |||||
Willans Hill Reserve Between the trees Right Face | |||||
V4 | ★★ Dark Element
Stand start from the right with legs in the little cave looking area and hands on left and right crimps above. Move left on to small crimps, these become more obvious as there isn't a lot of crimpy holds. Heel hook up and over as you are moving to the left and head straight up and around to the right when you get to the ledge and continue to top out. FA: Corey A, 10 Apr 2023 | 5m | |||
Rocky Hill Reserve The Graves | |||||
V4 | ★ Cremated
Stand start with the big flat hold just R of E. Use only the R arête for the rest of the holds to the top jug. FA: Matt Brooks, 9 Jul 2015 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ In the grave
Sit start on the R arête of the L hand Boulder at the bid square hold. Straight up to to the big flat side pull and mantle the top. FA: Matt Brooks, 9 Jul 2015 | 4m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Lookout | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Tourist Trap
Broken landing. FA: Alexander Bunyip, 2004 | ||||
V4 | ★★ Terrified Tourist
A few pads here. FA: Alexander Bunyip, 2004 | ||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Breeze Way boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Outback
Good fun, harder than it looks. Start at the same jug as for S but go up L to odvious small flake horn before mantling. | 4m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Alcove | |||||
V4 | Left Wing
Far L, L leading flake, sketching landing. FA: Matt Brooks, 15 Apr 2016 | 3m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Black Dog Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Pockets to pebbles
Mossy top out. FA: Anthony Alexander, 1998 | ||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Chicane Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Penny Pebble Pincher
A low L to R traverse of the main front face starting at SA and finishing at the conglomerate jugs on the track end. FA: FRA & Matt Brooks, 13 Nov 2015 | 8m | |||
23 | |||||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
23 | ★ The Hot Zone
Bouldery crux down low. Face route up wall in behind detached pillar crossing OOA finishing at the anchors ledge on the ledge of Andrew. FA: MB, 2015 | 18m, 5 | |||
23 | ★★ The Unknown
Fantastic face and arete climbing with a sneaky step R at 2/3s height that makes it all go. Climb the arete immediately L of A to the second break after the slopy ledge. Step R into A at the roof climb this for a 1m and then step back L around the corner to the next BR. Climb the last bit of arete and face in a spectacular position to the top. Lower off below the choss at the top. FA: MB, 2015 | 22m, 7 | |||
23 | ★★ Chaos Roof
Climb CHAOS past the 3 FHs and small roof then traverse L climbing the lip of the LWF roof and face before reaching the lower off on OE. FA: Robert Cowan, Peter Cunningham & Andrew McAuley, 1989 | 25m, 3 | |||
23 | ★★ Chaos
Climb SAM to horizontal, then move R to overlap. Move R past a FH up thin flake and face past 2FHs to small roof. Over roof and up face until just R of large roof. Finish up closed flake past 2FHs to lower off R of LWF. (#5 stopper and 2 small cams is useful after roof). Direct finish added in May 2017, makes for more direct and fun route. FA: Robert Cowan, Greg Caire & Andrew Driscoll, 1989 | 20m, 4 | |||
23 | ★★ Incensed
Start as for Angie. Up this for 5m to a traverse line. Traverse L to join SC for about 4m then traverse L again to the arete and follow this to the SC anchor. FA: 31 May 2015 | 15m, 3 | |||
V3 | |||||
Rocky Hill Reserve The Burbs | |||||
V3 | Swoop proof
This boulder is across the walking track looking up towards the hill. Low start from the right side of the boulder. There are 2 small pockets 1 for the left hand and 1 for the right. Move up to smaller crimps and then traverse across the left and up and out. FA: Corey A, 5 Nov 2022 | 3m | |||
Rocky Hill Reserve The Graves | |||||
V3 | Your horizontal
Start on the L edge of the Boulder with the horizontal crack at a crimp and slope. Traverse R into E and finish up this. Was easier but the holds where a bit flaky. FA: Matt Brooks, 9 Jul 2015 | 4m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Lookout | |||||
V3 | The Low Road
Low and confined. FA: Alexander Bunyip | ||||
V3 | ★ Take A Seat
FA: Alexander Bunyip, 2001 | ||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Breeze Way boulder | |||||
V3 | Goats Eye View
Start L on L and traverse up R on jugs and slopes to mantle FA: Matt & Matt Brooks | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Not quite Scenic
Start as for Scenic, do this first compression move before swing R on jugs and mantling. FA: Jason McCarthy, 15 Apr 2016 | 4m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Hermits Garden | |||||
V3 | ★ Number 12 Traverse
L to R traverse on pockets and crimps from stone wall to stone wall. FA: Matt Brooks, 16 Apr 2016 | 12m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Alcove | |||||
V3 | ★ Far Right Winger
Start down in the chimney on the L wall, traverse L tothe R end of the break and make a big move up to the top. FA: Jenna Brady, 15 Apr 2016 | 7m | |||
V3 | The swinging majority
The middle line of pebbles FA: Jason McCarthy, 15 Apr 2016 | 4m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Black Dog Boulder | |||||
V3 | Good dog
| ||||
22 | |||||
Holbrook | |||||
22 | Haemorrhage
20m Right (at R end of cliff) are two lines. Overhanging corner-crack capped by 2m off-width. From top of off-width face climb to top. FA: Robert Cowan, 1993 | 25m | |||
22 | Dragon Slayer
The thin finger crack next to TR1 FA: Robert Cowan & John Schwardfeger, 1993 | 20m | |||
22 | TR1
Around corner from Anorexia is a short arete finger crack to the left. Up the arete. FA: Robert Cowan & John Schwardfeger, 1993 | 20m | |||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
22 | Chromium Dog
R of VC and round corner is 1m high ledge below steep face. Line from middle of ledge, moving R. At horizontal, swing L and up into loose corner. FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley., 1989 | 40m | |||
22 | ★★ The Infidel
Nice face climbing, a little contrived as it steps L into Mohammed. Start 2m R of VC. Pull up R onto face for a few moves then Boulder L to join M. Up M for a few moves before traversing R a few metres before climbing diagonally R over the overlap and face to the anchors of BS. FA: MB, 2015 | 15m, 5 | |||
22 | ★ Comfortably Numb
Thin line 3m R of BM leading to shallow corner. Start behind large black and climb onto face. Difficult moves to horizontal. Pull past this to easier climbing. Protection difficult to place. FA: Robert Cowan, Peter Cunningham & Andrew, 1989 | 40m | |||
22 | Secret Agent Man
First line R of LWF. Thin crack, moving R to horizontal. Traverse L along horizontal to meet LWF. FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew Driscoll., 1989 | 20m | |||
21 | |||||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
21 | FM (Full Manual)
Thin, discontinuous crack 1m R of BL to horizontal ramp of April Fools. R corner. A bit of manual manipulation will see you through this section. Continue up broken face. FA: Robert Cowan & Greg Claire, 1989 | 40m | |||
21 | ★★★ Grand Larceny
Just L of The Brisbane Line at end of detached block is 4m face leading to horizontal. Ease up face L of arête on micro holds to horizontal. L-leaning line to ledge, then face above. FA: Peter Cunningham, Robert Cowan, Spring 1987. Direct Start added by Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989 | 40m | |||
21 | ★★ Staircase
The Rock's first classic test piece at this grade. Start 2m left of prominent corner. Prominent upside-down staircase (two BRs) to ledge. FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew Driscoll, 1989 | 35m, 2 | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith La Familia | |||||
21 | Keeping it in the Family
Start at the L end of La Familia wall at the base of the arete. Up the short face, traverse the break L and step up onto the slab. Up this and then R and up onto the short arete to the top and lower off. | 15m, 5 | |||
V2 | |||||
Willans Hill Reserve Between the trees Left Face | |||||
V2 | ★ Old Timer
Sit start and grab the jug in the middle. Move left with nice feet to an undercling with left hand, dyno to the top sloper hold in the middle and up and over. FA: Corey A, 10 Apr 2023 | 2m | |||
Rocky Hill Reserve The Burbs | |||||
V2 | Behind enemy lines
Sit start in the middles of the cut rock(jug). Pull up heading slightly right and moving left foot up and over the cut rock/starting jug area. Some small crimps as you head straight up and slightly to the right. FA: Corey A, 5 Nov 2022 | 2m | |||
Rocky Hill Reserve Hueco Marbles | |||||
V2 | ★★ Luckys Crack
The obvious crack up the centre of the R (or) main boulder. FA: Jessica Shaham, 9 Sep 2015 | 4m | |||
Rocky Hill Reserve The Graves | |||||
V2 | Exhumed
Sit start R of YH below the horizontal. Straight to the top mantle. FA: Matt Brooks, 10 Jul 2015 | 3m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Lookout | |||||
V2 | ★★ The High Road
Traverse on lip to easy top out. FA: Rebecca Alexander | ||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Breeze Way boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Location, Location
Bu start on low L flake R of Scenic FA: Matt Brooks | 3m | |||
20 | |||||
The Rock Upper Terrace | |||||
20 | Walk Across the Rooftops
Ramble up R. side of cave, then traverse L. to base of crack. Climb crack. FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989 | 30m | |||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
20 | The Brisbane Line
Starts at R end of detached block. Overhanging corner, then step up next (tricky) corner above. Major corner-line above to little ledge with small tree, then last part of corner. FA: Iain Sedgman, Glen Donohue & Wayne Maher, 1984 | 40m | |||
20 | ★ Terminator
One of The Rock's classic test-pieces. Start Marked. Start 1m L of Scratched Knees on top of rock. Up L side of recess through spectacular roof line. Turn lower roof on L using prominent hold on L wall to gain halfway ledge of Traverse #2. (Belay possible under main roof but don't bother) Turn second roof using underclings, then large jam-crack to reach jugs on lip. Wall above. (Both roofs easier than they look) FA: Jeff Boyton & Edward Fairleigh 1970's. | 40m | |||
20 | ★★ Temptation
A good climb if one resists the temptation to escape to easier climbing on L. Start just L of Terminator. R side of face. First crux face is protected by 3 BRs. Rest of route is adequately protected by gear. From horizontal, move R to join Terminator (best finish) or step L through bushes and up face to a large ledge. Continue up gully or climb unprotected roof (20/21) on R side of gully. FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989 | 40m, 3 | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith La Familia | |||||
20 | ★ La Familia
Start as for KIITF, up to the break and onto the slab, before climbing the face up to the L of the arete to the roof. Step R and up to the anchors of KIITF. | 15m, 6 | |||
V1 | |||||
Rocky Hill Reserve The Graves | |||||
V1 | Buried
The R edge of the Boulder that forms the R side of the mini corner. Sit start. FA: Matt Brooks, 9 Jul 2015 | 3m | |||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith The Lookout | |||||
V1 | Tantypants
| ||||
V1 | ★ Litter Bugs
| ||||
V1 | I Spy
Up and out from corner inside cave. High! FA: Alexander Bunyip | ||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Breezy Traverse | |||||
V1 | ★★ That David Michael Magic
Start on the small rail above the RD graffiti and go straight up. | ||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Chicane Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Hobo
FA: Anthony Alexander | ||||
V1 | ★ Sun arête
L arête of main face, finish at the big jug or top out if your brave FA: FRA & Matt Brooks | 5m | |||
19 | |||||
Holbrook | |||||
19 | Cerebral Palsy
Prominent corner crack on left of cliff. FA: Andrew McAuley & Robert Cowan, 1989 | 30m | |||
The Rock Upper Terrace | |||||
19 | Tinsel Town
Blank corner 2m right of WAR. Move R. at ledge and up corners (crux). FA: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989 | 30m | |||
The Rock The Main Face | |||||
19 | Falcon's Lair
3m R. of Greg's Climb is ledge 3m off ground. Boulder to ledge and climb corner to roof. Step R. to gain beautiful finger crack. Wall. FA: Robert Cowan & Derek Rempe, 1996 | 40m | |||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
19 | Rambunctious Flamboyance
2m R of Andrew is a bottomless, shallow corner behind a detached block. 'Delicate' is the flavour of this test piece. FA: Andrew McAuley & Robert Cowan, 1989 | 40m | |||
19 | Out of Africa
Follow Andrew to ledge (level with top of block). Crack out of R side of Andrew. Thin moves to good stance. Finish up corner. FA: Andrew McAuley & Robert Cowan, 1989 | 40m | |||
19 | ★★★ Outside Edge
Follow Angie to roof, then follow R line through roof. Straight up loose, R-facing corner to lower offs below loose wall at top. FA: Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, Iain Sedgman & Andrew Webb, 1984 | 40m | |||
19 | ★★ Wilted
Start 2m R of Wallflower on the face under the roof. Up this face to the roof. Step L into WF for a few moves then traverse back just above the roof to the arête. Follow this to the top where WF joins it. FA: 18 Oct 2015 | 15m, 4 | |||
19 | ★ Wall Flower
Excellent climbing in unusual place. Start as for SK, moving R to join bottoming crack. Do not hang around crack like a wallflower - continue up arête. This leads to easier climbing and lovely stroll to top. Protection a bit dubious, but small RPs in strange places will protect crux. FA: Robert Cowan & Greg Claire, 1989 | 35m | |||
18 | |||||
Holbrook | |||||
18 | Epileptic
Line right of Haemorrhage. Set: Andrew McAuley & Robert Cowan, 1989 | 25m | |||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
18 | ★★ Andrew
20m R. of VC is corner which starts behind L end of large, detached block. Up between block and wall to join corner. FA: Jeff Boyton & Harry Boyton, 1974 | 40m | |||
18 | Instant Religion
Steep face 4m R. of VC. Take line at R. side, about 3m L. of Andrew and detached block. Veer L. with line into short corner (crux). FA: Iain Sedgman, Peter Cunningham, Glen Donohue, D Harris & Tony Velling, 1985 | 40m | |||
18 | ★★ Mohammed
Follow for VC for 1m, then move R onto arête. (If you reach L into corner grade is reduced to about 15). Crux is getting past overlap. FA: Andrew McAuley 80's. | 40m | |||
18 | The Brink of Misery
Start 2m R. of JD at L. side of face. Hard face moves with scant protection lead by way of loose rock to shallow corner. Follow this up to top of pillar. Face above. FA: Iain Sedgman, 1984 | 40m | |||
18 | ★★ Harry the Fairy
Some delicate footwork whilst on side pulls gets you to an easier finish. Start as for HH, boulder up R to RB then straight up the wall to lower off on ledge. | 20m, 4 | |||
18 | ★★ The Nose
Start marked (TN). Nose to roof. Step R and ascend wall. FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley (15 & M1, 1973 FFA: Greg Smith & Jeff Boyton, 1976 | 35m | |||
17 | |||||
Holbrook | |||||
17 | Anorexia
Right of CP is a terrace. Right leaning hand crack that splits face. Set: Robert Cowan & Andrew McAuley, 1989 | 20m | |||
The Rock Central Buttress | |||||
17 | Friction Boots
Start marked. Start on high-angled, mossy slab about 60m from Exit Gully. Directly up slab. FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1974 | 25m | |||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
17 | April Fools
Starts 5m R of BL on ramp. Follow L-sloping ramp to small ledge. Traverse round nose to main crack-line. FA: Jeff Boyton, Andrew Hedley (14 & M1), 1973 FFA: Greg Smith & Jeff Boyton, 1976 | 45m | |||
17 | ★★ Lest We Forget
Beautiful line done in two pitches to reduce rope drag.
FA: Iain Sedgman & Glen Donohue (alt), 1984 | 40m | |||
16 | |||||
The Rock The Main Face | |||||
16 | Greg's Climb
Start marked. Corner R. of Carcinogenic Cloud. Crack and wall above. FA: Jeff Boyton & Greg Smith, 1976 | 40m | |||
V0 | |||||
Scenic Hill - Hermits Cave Griffith Breeze Way boulder | |||||
V0 | Look out!
Starts just above the crack in the black rock right of LL. Up through pockets and mantle on lichenous pebbles. | ||||
15 M3 | |||||
The Rock The Main Face | |||||
15 M3 | The Rock Face Direct
The Rock's original 'big wall' climb. Start marked.
FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1974 | 65m, 3 | |||
15 | |||||
The Rock The Main Face | |||||
15 | The Rock Face Route
A classic climb and the first done at The Rock. Start marked.
Exposure is grade 15 on its own. FA: Jeff Boyton & Shane Burkett, 1971 | 120m, 3 | |||
The Rock Central Buttress | |||||
15 | ★★ Mr Toad
Start Marked. Up large crack to alcove on L. Follow obvious crack to crux. Reachy move into alcove rest. Step R and up to belay on L. FA: Damien Brook, Mick Sander & Ange Boyd, 2013 | 25m | |||
The Rock The Towers | |||||
15 | ★★ Angie
Excellent climbing at this grade. Prominent corner marked 'A'. Corner to roof. Pass the roof on the left. Continue past some large, loose blocks, then up to the top of the cliff. FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973 | 35m | |||
15 | ★★ Scratched Knees
Start marked (SK). Starts 1m R of Terminator (just L of large nose). R side of recess and overhang to roof. Don't pike on R, but head straight up through roof and finish up L line. FA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley, 1973 | 35m | |||
14 | |||||
The Rock The Main Face | |||||
14 | Mossy, Too
Start in crack system just R. of arête between January Crack and Carcinogenic Cloud. Crack until arête can be gained. FA: Derek Rempe & Robert Cowan, 1996 | 30m | |||
The Rock Central Buttress | |||||
14 | Greg's Chimney
On the right side of the Central Walls are two large chimneys readily seen from the road when driving to the Rock Nature Reserve from The Rock township. Big R. chimney FA: Jeff Boyton & Greg Smith., 1975 | 35m |