Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

Start: 1m left of 'Liquid Insanity'. Steep wall past 2 BRs to ledge, then crack / corner to break. Step right to double RB belay, or (recommended) finish directly over block (BR to double BB belay).

The far side of a boulder 30 metres to the left of, and just downhill from 'Low Interest', sports a right facing, dainty little corner crack offering fingerlocking and stemming moves.[-35.526836,148.910691]

The short crack to the left with an awkward, undercut start about ten metres right.

The first grade 18 in Australia! Brilliant route-finding.

Start on W Face, at N end of overhang.

1. 21 m Up rotten rock. piton, belay off block.

2. 21m R across yellow wall (pitons) to piton belay.

3. 21 m Up beneath overhang.

4. 15 m R until looking down into central scoop. Slightly L to grey break in yellow overhang above. Up 3 m.

5. 24 m Up steeply (pitons) to good stance.

6. 18 m Up.

7. 15 m Traverse down R.

8. 15 m Traverse R, to R of chimney.

9. 24 m Swing strenuously up wall on R, then L to gully.

10. 15 m Gully

Start left of a prominent overhang, below a crack and roof.

1. 30m (18) - Up the left crack to below the roof. Hand traverse back to the right crack and pull up onto a slab.

2. 6m (16) - Up to the top via the two converging cracks.

Up to bolt, trend right to piton, up, up and left to double bolts, left along lip then weakness up to roof, over, up and right to bush. 2). Right to corner and up.

Start: 10m right of L at groove.

Possibly the worst, documented route in the Coffs Area. An adventure route that is the antithesis of the neighboring sport climbs. About 30 m past the White Wall, before you get to the main Deliverance Area.

1. 15m. Delicately up the orange, chossy, corner crack to the base of the chimney.

2. 15m. Struggle and stem your way up the flairing off-width/chimney on reasonable rock until you reach the overhanging soil. Detour left around the arete onto poorly protected slopers and bushes before crawling across a ledge back into the main crack system.

3. 5m. Enjoy a surprisingly nice stemming crack to the summit.

Mixed route of zigzagging cracks with anchors

Better than it looks.

Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces.

The blunt arete at the base of the gully.

Same start as home and hosed then straight up.

More a warning than a recommended route. The ridge on the right of the ampitheatre is looser dirtier and steeper than appearances. After 40 m, above the hand crack crux it degenerates further into a vegetated gully.

Marked as "D". Up the right leaning black groove 4m left of 'Troubadour', through bulge finishing on either side of bush at top. A bold climb with little decent gear until 2/3 height.

The wide crack in the back of 'Toadstool Rock'.

The arete right of CD. Many people traverse in from the left or right. 4 carrots plus medium-large gear.

Start: 40m right of B.

1. 20m (18) Undercut ferny crack to short crack on left.

2. 20m (-) Right across wall to 'Cripple Corner' anchor 1.

3. 20m (-) Finish as for CC.

Start: 30m right and uphill of 'Social Misfit'.

The left of two cracks. Up to tree belay.

Up ISHFWILF then step right to flake on MS and finish as for that route.

Directions from ACT granite, starting from the Kazbah area. I suspect this is Wasabi. It seems the most likely, it's in the right area, about the right height, on the other side of Laurel camp road, and drains into the water catchment, If someone can independently have a walk/look around to confirm that'd be great

Things now get worse... Follow the track downhill to an intersection, turn right and keep rallying back uphill through the pines. You may eventually come back out onto the cleared ridgeline to the main access road. Turn back right onto it and continue until nearly back to the original narrow turnoff to the knoll. There is a small group of boulders in the water catchment area on the opposite side of the road to the knoll.

The hand crack amongst these

On the left of the chimney that forms the left side of the block left of the wall. You'll see 2 RB's (with matching carrots) which are the start of the climb. When you reach the "cute" crack above it's time for trad. There are double u bolts approx 25 meters into the climb which are in very good condition.

3 m right of the arete and around the corner from Subliminal Erotica. 2 bolts and trad gear. Tree anchor.

The right crack direct.

Up then right around arete and up onto loose block, right of arete. 2). Void then arete and groove, onto ledge to girder.

Start: 3m right of TBR.

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.

Layback an off width.

Start: 2m right again.

Up to ledge and into corner/flake. Take care with flake, these features have a habit of breaking of without warning

Aka the Bellbird Wall trad variant, it beggars belief that it took until now for these splitters to be climbed! Approach and rap in as per Bellbird Wall (BbW).

1. Clip first bolt of The Next Doctor to keep belayer safe, then move right and up into corner passing small gear (crux - #0.3 cams/small wires). Take care with delicate and reachy face climbing staying left of some loose rock. Follow the obvious stemming corner through short choss patch then up past great gear and moves into cave. Stem up and out to exit cave on right, be sure to place gear in crack at lip of cave before slab runout above. Take a deep breath and gingerly climb the slab aiming for hand crack a few metres above (or runout can be avoided by stepping left into small corner on left). Continue up crack feature on easier terrain to DBB as per P.1 BbW.

2. Atop first boulder as for BbW P.2, clipping the first bolt, then trend left following the wide horizontal crack aiming for wide chimney and carrot on left wall. Clip this and pull onto arete and up to gear in small crack (#0.3-0.4). Continue up wide crack to rejoin BbW, trying not the clip the bolts when they appear! DBB as for BbW P.3.

3. Start as per BbW's cool bottomless chimney but trend right following main crack at lip to top. (This pitch also goes all on gear.)

Described by Statius as "the queen of long distance roads" the construction of the Appian Way commenced in 312 BC and served as a supply route for troops and supplies during the Samnite Wars. As a long straight clean line this is one of the more efficient ways to gain the 1/2 way ledge for anyone wanting to inspect the tougher routes prior to climbing. The line commences about 10m Right of Mouse land and 20m Left of Interregnum. Follow the rightmost of the 2 cracks through a bulge and onto a blunt arête. Directly up the sea of rock on the arête through mixed gear, beautiful holds and fabulous exposure. The last 5m off the ledge to the anchor is climbed via the small arete past 1 BR to tree belay. Take: 8 bolt plates, at least 2 x .5 and 2 x .3, offset nuts are good (keep a blue for the headwall), otherwise a single rack should do.

One of the classics of the cliff. Varied climbing.

Start: At marked 'MM' at large flake crack.

1. 25m (16) Up flake to top of pedestal. 3BB.

2. 20m (18) Up wall diagonally L to BR. Continue diagonally L (poor pro) easily to ledge (feel free to add a bolt) then up to ledge with a small tree and 2 rings .

3. 20m (17) Up to ledge and across 8m L to ledge then up slab and groove on R (2BR) to stance at base of L-facing corner with a small tree and 2BB.

4. 25m (18) Up corner to cruxy top-out. Tree anchor.

Descent = rap 50 m from slim tree 10 m East (R facing valley; look out for loose rock) to large ledge (top of Sizzler) and rap rings. 40 m rap.

Bridge up the black groove to difficult climbing through bulge. Move into the right hand crack above the blocks.

Start: 5m left of 'Caliban'.

A continuous, soaring, well-protected crack with minimal crack-climbing required. Generally excellent rock, with brief suspect rock near top. Takes a wide mixture of gear, and consider saving a #4 cam and a #3/#2 cam for that final traverse).

Start most of the way up the ramp/slot (about 5m left of Blast Off ). Up obvious crack, trending left. 2m below the shale ledge, traverse left for about 10m along a clean break, then step down to the Jezebel chains.

Rap 30m from here to large block. 70m rope is ample to lower off if the leader would rather belay on the ground.

Start 5m R of WE. Corner to roof, wall via crack to ledge (big cam!), seam to top.

Start as for Grotto Crack, past first bolt to horizontal break. Hand traverse R to ring bolt and up flake as for End of the Century. Cams and bolts.

Start: Corner 8m right of GC.

A death-trap, full of loose, crumbly rock.

Start: The left-hand crack in the chossy alcove immediately right of 'Portable Rip-off.

Awkwardly up hanging channel and up crack, keeping to the left.

Start: On the very lowest 'mini-buttress' way down the hillside below the Kingpin, on the face facing the river. The climb is the thin intermittent crack on the left front of the buttress. (left - facing the rock).

1. Up the crack to the top.

Start at mid point of roofs, 3m left of Dekaputation below finger to hand rack with undercut start. After pulling hard start, the climb relents to a fun grade 12 on great rock. No anchors at present.

Start: 2m. left of A.T.O.C.

Traverse diagonally left up slab, step left, continue up slab, then right to base of chimney/off-width. Up this and exit right to ledge.

Start at the obvious corner on the left, capped by a roof.

1. 20 metres - Crux. Up the corner.

2. 30 metres - Walk right then up the crack. Hand traverse right then layback up to the top.

Start 3m L of IAH. Some thin reachy slab work. Up past big cam to BR. Continue up slab to ledge and straight to top. Will be quite nice if retrobolted.

1. 39 m Up rib 9 m R of Minor Route for 9 m to overlap, then L and up R to small stance.

2. 18 m Traverse 5 m L, then up to slot and piton belay at steepening.

3. 30 m (crux) L and up for 5 m, then back R. Up past pitons, then R to groove. Up.

1 m right of Blind Faith. Up orange wall past 2 bolts and a small cam. Exit left under large roof.

Up 'Liz' for five metres and move left on a block to the right edge of 'Cave Wall'. Climb the leftward leaning crack to the ledge.

Start: 7m right of EJ.

1). tree onto wall and up, slight right to piton, through overhang, left to belay. 2). Rising traverse to ledge below overhangs. 3). Left to cave, left through overhang, wall to ledge. Up.

Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Preferably use double ropes!.

Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

Start as for Tilba Tilba. Traverse right to 2nd corner above the finish of Monkey Bars, then up. No pro.

At the bottom on inside wall of gully.

Traverse under small roof to shallow V groove. Place some runners in the horizontal then up and slightly right into groove and follow this to ledge. Step left to belay off DBB.

The first climb on the left side (facing out). Start 4m left of G.O, up past 4 bolts and a distinct reachy crux. #2 and #3 cam for top to hidden lower off anchors.

Start as for Vitez. Follow this up to pea pod, at the left hand flake bust out right above Inchworm Groove anchors and take the two ringbolts above (extend last piece and the runners along traverse). Finish up the headwall dihedral on small gear to take the anchors above and right at the top of the cliff (Top of Nats Mega Proj). Fun mix of crack, slab and face climbing.

Start 90m right of C. Around roof and up crack - possible to belay where wall becomes a slab - small corner, traverse right along obvious break 10m, diagonally right across to corner and up. Take care with pro after the crack fizzles.

"This desperate line is somewhat easier than it would first appear." This is the striking splitter crack in the upper part of this wall. Take doubles of #0.5-1 cams. Originally approached via Jitterbug, but its much better to start up TZ Direct and do it all as a single pitch. Walk 10m R to abseil off the Highlites anchor, or keep walking R to the descent gully.

63m right of GM.

Start: Wide crack just left of corner.

Start at Time spent taken needing small and offset protection up and over the overhang and finish up on TST's anchors

Start: The first line on the left-hand end of the wall, a crack. Enjoyable (so we are told) but harder than it looks. You decide.

Up crack under small roof, then up thin crack onto blocks and through small tree.

Start 15 metres right of 'Lest We Forget', just right of the obvious water streak and corner.

1. 40 metres - A bit dirty, wet and runout in places. Climb the flake and then traverse left on the black slab to another flake. Continue up the water streak to join the corner and up this to belay below the roof.

2. 20 metres - Climb up to the roof, then traverse left and up awkwardly onto a ledge. Up the easy, mossy slab to finish.

handcrack on east wall of chasm 30m north

Starts up slab 6m L of PIAW on a terrace about 10m up. Great line pushing through the red centre. Look out for small furry friends. Up the slab to ledge then up orange wall to more gear (cams and nuts) to small ledge to finish. Exit with care off R.

Crack on NW corner at open ledge below flaring roof.

Topo may be incorrect. Please update or confirm.

About 10m right of Tomorrow Boy. The left hand crack, in the corner. Up crack, left into cave and then right and up to tree. Abseil from tree.

A contrived line that detracts from 'Hermes'. Up the second pitch of 'Hermes' for three metres then move right onto the face and up past two bolts.

Up wall and arete, veer left up wall to arete then left side of arete to KK anchor 1. Rap.

Start: 40m right of SG.

Start: At base of arête 2m left of G.A.S.

Up arête tending right onto slab and gear placements. Directly up groove to top. R.P.’s and small cams.

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

Steep chimney/crack, corner and crack.

Start: 55m (?) right of SC at bushes left of yellow choss corner with roof at 6m?

Follow corner for 10m then follow hand crack to top.

Traverses left following the upwards trending overlap. Mind some loose blocks in the middle.

Start: Start at the anchors at the top of Slip.

Corner up to small roof with fixed wires

1. 18m (18) Aesthetic fingertips corner up to a bolted anchor in a sandy cave. Most only do this good pitch.

2. 21m (-)

3. 30m (-)

4. 30m (-)

3m left of O.

Blast straight up wall past cam breaks. Take care in the upper section (pro is restricted to slinging the flake, plus a micro-cam placement). Double BB belay. Rap off double RB rap station on block above the climb.

The best way to approach TZ and continue as one pitch. Start at the steep orange corner 2m right of CBX. Up to join TZ at ledge. Take double rack of small to medium cams (up to #3). Some loose blocks down low but easily avoided.

Natural anchor (small cams) at top. Walk right 10m to abseil off 'Highlites' anchor.

A balancy, exposed climb unfortunately marred by too much lichen. Start at the 2nd belay of 'Bird of Prey'. Take long slings to reduce rope drag.

Move left from the belay, then up and right to the slab above the belay. Climb right below the overlap then down and around the prow and up the slab until it’s possible to pull up left onto the higher slab. Easier climbing diagonally left to join Ephemeros at the 2nd belay (about 20m away).

Up cave to full body rest on sandy ledge, turn out to jam crack, then big moves up the lichen layback. Beware the chockstone that goes "boomp" and any other loose bits.

Not sure of the grade on this.

Start: 'Arete' right of GM.

Left leaning crack and gully system. Go left up corner to top out

Up layback crack to ledge, then up corner. loose rock on white wall.

danger - second (50 metre) pitch is unprotected

Sustained and poorly protected. Start on the lower slab, to the right of the steepest section. Scramble up the gully between the easy angled slabs and the cliff proper to where a crack leads leftwards over the initial steepness.

1. 30 metres (crux) Climb the crack until it closes and steepens. Step left and continue diagonally left with increasing difficulty. Belay on good wires near the top of a small overlap running down the face.

2. 50 metres (16) - Unprotected. Straight up the middle of the slab to the top.

Start as for Triangle (below) then up arete. Cams protect near top.

Start at R·facing corner 60m L of Cornerstone Rib.

1-6: Corner then corner and ramps, tending R at top. Yellow crack.

The topo line is a guess. May be inaccurate but we had to start somewhere. Please update.

About 15 m right of Bitter Fingers, just past the small ridge. Up wall past one bolt. Same finish as Exterminator.