Routes as boulder in South Coast

Traverse along a section of rock next to the cave. There are some fun heel hooks and toe jams to complete the climb.

Climb on the right side (from perspective of looking at the cave) Starts on the holds about 1.5m up and finished matched on the sloper on the roof.

Sit start under where Star Wars Hat starts. Follow Star Wars Hat but continue up past the sloper and to the higher rail.

Start on the nice jug about halfway on the left side of the cave. Traverse left on some crimps to the big sandy sloper. Finish on a pretty good crimp outside the cave.

Deep jug at halfway has broken off. Adds a grade or two.

Right of Boys light up. Start down low left hand on left side of sloper with flat top, right hand slightly around the corner on worse sloper. Move out left and up to side pull rail, match, move left to good crimp and finish up on flat top jug. There was chalk on the holds before I got there so sorry if it was already sent.

Start down low with hands on the sloper and move across the crimps to a pretty powerful move to the most obvious jug (careful if you don't get it right it bites!). climb finishes on edge top right.

Past the cave (ocean to the left). The vertical hand crack. V1 if you can jam. Make your way up till you are standing above the crack. Either jump off or solo to the top on average rock.

Jump to start on the slicey juggy ledge about two thirds of the way along the cave lip(the lower, meaner of the two jugs). Move up then left along the crack, finishing matched in the slippery yellow section of the crack where it intersects with the vertical crack. Jump to start can be tricky depending on sand height, start further along right side cave if necessary.

Start matched on big pinchy jug at right hand side of cave (as with Better Beach Bouldering, but no sit start). Move up through BBB onto top rail then traverse across to start and finish Slices of Emily.

Up on small pockets and face holds up onto the ledge.

Climb up the second rib to the right up off the second ledge, laybacking to the top

Standing start on the left side of the bulge of rock, 2 jugs to start and pull up and onto the slab to finish with a top out. Be careful as some of the rock is a little sharp, some blood was left as a sacrifice by the first ascensionists.

Sit start with feet under the roof/on the back wall of the little cave. Mantle onto the slab above the cave and top out on the slab. Watch out for sharp rock in some of the holds.

The furthest most right boulder. Up the slightly overhanging prow arete from a sit start.

Up the obvious leftwards leaning crack

Middle of the blank face to the left of the crack

About 2m left of the entrance space. Climb past the diagonal cracks on big jugs to top out.

1m left of previous climb. Start with hands in the high rails, up to the bad pinch and deadpoint for the top.

Through the little overhang with underclings up balancy crimps to top out.

Move up to the left of the next little undercling roof, up to pocket and into the kings lounge rail.

Stand start with hands in large pockets, move up to juggy rails and finish

Crimps to shallow scoop at 3/4 height and then to rail at top to finish

Up to horn on the top of the wall

Rising traverse at the top end

On the boulder on the platform above the rest of the problems

Sit start on undercling rail and use crimps to slap to top

Straight up the center of the wall. Sit start into the larger flake and top out on questionable holds, watch the landing.

The internal corner at the left end of the left boulder.

The best descent route for the Main Wall.

The crack in the middle of the south facing wall. Dubious top-out chockstones. Take care.

Up the arete.

Left most crack on main face.

Up slab between two cracks on main face.

Crack in the middle of the main face.

Up the stepped slab right of the central crack.

Slightly vegetated left leaning crack right of Licking The Beater.

Off-width corner at right-hand end of main face.

Traverse right starting next to bush, just left of Vitamin Puffs. Follow head height horizontal crack / ledge with hands. Bridge gap (descenmt route) to Devonshire Face. Continue right until reaching bush, then top out.

Use face and left side of crack on south facing wall.

Use face and right side of crack on south facing wall.

Sit start just right of arete proper, under-cling in mini cave then up arete.

The left arete of Devonshire Face, left of the deep crack (Elderberry Jam). This is to the right of the obvious descent gully.

There are three cracks in the Devonshire Face, right of Dry Scone. This is the widest crack to the left.

You may need to tape up for this one. Pretend you're in The Valley and use vertical hand jams only (the rest is off limits) to gain the mighty summit.

A harder variant (project) for the massochists would be to throw a fist into the bum start.

Good value. The double, crossed cracks right of Elderberry Jam. Sit start. No dynos.

This is the middle of the three obvious weaknesses (the one left of the vegetation). Hands free. Topo at feet level.

On the same slab as Beer In Hand. Start up the diagonal, vegetated crack at the right side of the slab. Pad up just left of the arete. Hands permitted.

Start on the left side of the Salt Bae Boulder at the right-leaning crack. Traverse rightward with hands in the horizonal break. Finish up right leaning diagonal.

V0 if you eliminate the obvious foot ledge in the middle.

The pick of the crag. Quite the tip shredding puzzle. It links all the best bits of the Salt Bae boulder.

Start as for Salt Bae, but traverse the face, from left to right, avoiding the high horizontal and right leaning break (the rest of Salt Bae) using whatever remains on the face. Finish in the welcome groove right of the boulder, or muscle up Golden Tomahawk for extra cred.

What's the point?

Start in the semi-detatched flake between the starts of Salt Bae and Off The Bone. Climb the flake to the diagonal and beyond. Top out in the middle of the upper boulder just to make it slightly interesting.

Start in the middle of the Salt Bae boulder, with your feet on the obvious little ledge and hands on the thin side pull. Straight up, joining Salt Bae at the angled slot.

The sit start (project) would make it harder and better.

Sit start on the right side of the Salt Bae boulder. Hands in left-leaning, rounded crack, right foot on right leaning slab. Work hands up left to knob. Pop right hand to top, match and top out.

A harder variant (project) would be to start with both feet on the face or in the left leaning diagonal.

Start at right leaning diagonal just to the right of the Salt Bae boulder. Traverse right, feet low, through a proper hand jam and body tensioning barn-door moments. Finish up the second right leaning off-width. Tricky if moist.

Sit start just right of Low n Slow with hands in isolated flake. Up rightward until feet gain the right leaning ramp. Follow ramp to glory.

Sit start at the right leaning diagonal right of Hot n Fast. Strong first move, then cruise up the widest break to top.

Right to left rising traverse with feet in the obvious left-leaning ramp to easy top-out.

Long, rightward traverse across the Sausage Sizzle Slabs, from the finish of Low n Slow to the slabby corner after Do The Right Thing. Difficulty increases progressively. Perfect.

The first vertical weakness right of the finish of Low n Slow. Start on rounded boulder. Good holds all the way.

The face between Bread n Butter and American Mustard. Both cracks are off limits. Tenuous to start.

The shallow weakness a metre right of Bread n Butter.

The deeper weakness just to the right of American Mustard.

The face between Sauce Not Ketchup and the descent gully.

Kiddies confidence-builder.

Right of Sauce Not Ketchup there is a deep, low-angled rift with a short pillar in the middle. This is one of many descent routes.

To the right of that there is an offwidth with an obvious black leakage at the base. This is Burnt Sausage, short and overcooked but the kids won't mind.

Right of Burnt Sausage there are three shallow weaknesses. This is the left of the three.

The right of the three vertical weaknesses.

Almost too easy to be a problem, but the kiddies (and oldies) will love it. The obvious left leaning diagonal right of No Onion.

Start as for Baby Q but stright up the vertical weakness rather than the diagonal.

The vertical weakness right of Join The Q.

You may want to try this one yourself before pointing the offspring at it. A bit more tenuous than most on the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. The second weakness right of the left leaning diagonal (Baby Q), with blobs of yellow lichen.

Desperate ... for one move ... if you're 5'8".

Between Hide The Jalapeno and Stained Serviette (the two lines with yellow lichen) there is a blank section of slab. Smear up this without using the boulders in the sand or the vertical weaknesses on either side.

The broken weaknes 2m right of Hide The Jalapeno.

Just tidying up. The final vertical weakness on the right end of the Sausage Sizzle Slabs. Can be broken into two pitches.

On the left of the south face of Picnic Boulder. Sit start then easily up the prominant series of slots.

Strangely satisfying.

Sit start as for Gracias, but move right, swapping to the thinner crack. Rock over the low right foot and palm-slap up the blankness to the right of the crack.

Only one move, but at least it's a fun one.

Sit start (or hang straight armed if you are short) off the big jug on the right of the south face of the Picnic Boulder. Right foot up and crank over it onto slab.

Limp and pointless.

At the left arete of the back (north) side of the Picnic Boulder there is a small attached flake. Crimp it and up.

Right of Paper Plate there are two side-pulls at head height. This is the left (easier) of the two.

The best of the three, but that's not saying much.

Just right of Paper Cup there is another side pull. Use this and left foot on large blob. Swap feet and up.

Start at the right arete. Rising leftward traverse with feet following the angled sloper until you feel like mantling.

Sit start as for Gracias but traverse left across the west face. Finish up the easy, crimpy arete or, if you are still hungry, link into Spilt Chardy.

On the left (west) face of Galley Boulder there is a prominant flake system. From a standing start, haul on the lowest jugs then layback the flakes.

The weakness in the west face, left of Deep Satisfaction. Hard sit start to pocket and mantle. The right arete is off limits.

The ankle-shredding off-width corner in the spine of the open book. Sit start.

The face right of Deep Satisfaction. Sit start with both hands on the rail and feet in horizontal below. Mantle top out.

Sit start at lower level right of Bloomin Fall. Hands on jugs at feet level of Bloomin Fall, then up through undercling and jug to easy top out.

Vanilla Frosting is left of Marble Cake, following the quartz. A crimpy, standing start relents to simple moves on beautiful rock.

The set of left leaning diagonals. Sit start with left hand on crimp below horizontal quartz and right hand in side pull. A hard first move relents to a pleasant stroll.

Sit start as for Marble Cake but with both hands in the side pull. Thrutch up right to orange flake and stroll up it to top.

The slab right of Marble Cake. Eliminate as much as you wish and it will still be simple.

The feature right of Spatulation. Hands free. Toppo is drawn at feet level.

Crepey is just an excuse to do the last move of Skillet. Stand start on the very left of the boulder using the boulder in the sand for feet. Crimp and slap right to the finishing jug of Skillet. Top out as for Skillet.

Just like a real boulder problem … only shorter.

Sit start with both hands on the far right jug and left foot in the overhung corner. Grunt left to the next hold then power up left to the jug on the prow. Hook left, rock over and top out.

Start at horizontal break, big right hand move up, then mantle with high left foot.

Start on horizontal break. Multiple ways to go, choose your adventure.

The obvious splitter hand crack. Sit start.

Bridge the corner using Keft Cleft for your left foot.

Sit start right of the steep arete, with both hands on the sharp edge. Try to keep bleeding to a minimum as you hook and hand traverse left around the arete to finish up Befogged Bridge.

Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (right two). Straight up.

Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (left two). Bust leftwards to pinch then up face.

Start with right hand low in the crack and left in undercling below right hand. A couple of jams will get you to the pocket and continue up from there.

Duplicate, please delete.

On seaside of boulder (south face). Sit start on slimpers.

South-east corner. Sit start on slopers. Wrestle the bulge and mantle. Note that only the main boulder is in (don't dab the friendly looking small boulder).