The Fear Factory Guide

Start under the roof over the pit of death and head toward the lip. Crux on the face and up high and left to finish. Spotter and pads are advisable.

Wall left of Golden Showers. Big jump off of rubbish crimps. Connor Lucas

Obvious square-cut corner, curving at the top. Either a great problem, or a bag, depending on your point of view

Cranky wall immediately right, rated.

The arete right of 'Elm Street'

Matti Puckridge

Climb the wall right of Blunt Instrument using the arete, topping out to the right.

Easy arete and a good intro, climbed on the right all the way up.

Marvellous slab climbing to the right. Start at the small boulder and go straight up.

Tough slab to the right, underneath the tree

Stand start and up the wall between Disco Inferno and Rocksteady Teddy.

To the right is a faint seam. smear on up left of this.

Dan Stephenson

Subtle line 1m R of Rocksteady Teddy

Lovely slab.

To the right, get established in the big pocket then run for the top

a metre of two right, up a couple of moves then left via slopey ramp to finish up 'Jemima'

Straight up from the start of 'Sesame Street'

low start on the arete, scary finish

Left of 'Poltergeist', start in the corner, go up and leftish

Slabby top wall of the 'Frankenstein' boulder. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

The 'Frankenstein' arete taken on the left-hand side. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

That's what we're here for! Megaclassic curving arete, as good as any and at a reasonable grade too. There is a bolt with a fixed hanger at the top of this boulder.

Climb under the peak to about three quarter boulder height, run out of feet and bail to the arete.

Slab project mentioned in the guide. Plumb line to the peak of the boulder. Done on top rope by Pete Balint but never without.

To the right of 'Frankenstein' is a big highball slab. 'The Trance' follows a rightward-leaning faint seam to the top

Delicately straight upwards to the finish of 'The Trance'

well right of TZ, follow slopey breaks up to the summit ridge above a dodgy landing

Rightmost line on this boulder, off the mossy slab and up the short wall

Undercut crack, impossible to avoid the tree topping out.

Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish.

A full 4.5m of mostly thin ceiling crack, flared turn, and a couple of jams to finish. Even has some roof holds and pockets.

Jump to the top of the arete and over.

Up left of the corner.

The centre.

Just right of the arete.

Stand start on the arete and climb it on its left side.

Stand start, up on slopey pockets to top. Very friction dependent.

Elijah Mercado Sam Healy

From the very thin orange break, make a tricky and technical jump start, then take on the powerful and slopey top. V8 from Pete, V10 from Sharik Walker...

A powerful, continuous sloping arete. Sit start, then slap up the left leaning arete.

A nice line, a big jump and a tough top.

Short slab just around the left of Plastic Strips. Nice 2 mover

The entrance to the store. Good climbing up the buttress.

Start off the low broken jug.

Hands free balancey fun up the slab.

Sit down then slap your way up the overhanging slopey nose. Powerful and sustained to what some consider a tough mantle.

A cute little arete with a dynamic start and a physical finish. The wall on the right side of the crack is off.

This time establish yourself completely on the arete before moving up.

A fun short problem up the juggy arete, start low for even better value.

The faint arete, starting on its left.

Up just left of the arete.

The little arete on good holds.

From the low break, crank up just right of the arete.

Follow the committing ramp rightwards to the top. Bad landing.

Surprisingly good and continuous climbing up the steep little buttress.

A very weird almost classic. The series of good deep, but always moist, pockets have a completely unannounced tendency to send you flying backwards into the conveniently located spotting tree.

The twin pocketed seams offer sustained, classy and committing climbing.

Mantis

Climb the fantastic overhung arc up the slab. Just enough holds to be climbable. Serious unprotected climbing at an unreasonable height. One of the best lines in Sydney.

Geographically the first problem at the Factory and a real trouser filler it is too. Start in the corner, move up and right then committingly follow the seam to the top. Very bad landing.

Off the break and up. Forgettable.

From the low right facing flake, move left and up. Thin and committing. Bad landing.

Potentially a horrendous landing.

Not as relaxing as a Caribbean cruise, but don't be afraid there's no jamming here mon. There is a fair bit of exposure though. Bad landing

Get down and get groovy, this old skool classic has got some funking moves above a bad ass landing.

Start in the little cave and then (hopefully) float up the balancey, technical and stunning arete. Trend right to top, not left via the decent rail. Landing? Probably very messily on the track way down below - don't find out!

Jack Folkes

The left side of the front of the buttress. Committing and airy. What landing?

Big, tall, hairy and beautiful. Up the right side of the arete. Don't fall.

Start as for Marmaduke, then follow the big footholds and the hillside up and left around the arete to a distinct crux.

Short and tough stuff off the layaway in the gully.

Stay on the right of the arete. Goey.

Cruise your way up the right side of this little arete. Take care, the large block and the tough top has already sent one victim halfway down the hill.

Bear hug the buttress. Sandy and a tough top.

Tasty! A great line up the dark wall. Crimpy, cranky and very committing. Horrendous landing.

A nice little trot up an airy buttress. Not a great landing.

The corner crack.

Scramble then tackle the totally committing arete on its right side.

Stand on the ledge, take a deep breath and climb the short face using the right arete. Totally committing, bad landing.

An ideal Factory intro. Up the right side of the arete on good holds, mantle left to finish.

Up the thin seam staying away from the crack. Much better than it looks.

Stand on the ledge, then commit to the short crimpy slab staying left of Rich Vein.

From the bottom of the flake, straight up.

Excellent funky arete-ing. Get down and do it!

A beautiful problem up the right side of the wall.

Classic Factory wall climb.

Check your insurance policy and have the phone at hand, then scramble up (too high) and procrastinate over the short committing crux. The narrow buttress between the crack and the arete. Nail biting excellence with a horrendous landing.

The corner.

A very committing crimpy narrow line just left of Cracked.

Stylish. A low crux in the middle of the wall leads to a delightful airy finish just right of the arete.

Climb the arete with the twin spikes to an airy finish.

'I promise it is.' Juggy fun and a mantle too.

Up the right arete of the wall, to the nose of the big boulder. Traverse right and mantle to finish.

A lowish traverse from the right arete over to Come Fly With me, then up.

Up the right side of the wall, non-stressful on feature holds

Up the wall via good pockets below the roof's right edge to slink off right at the roof.

Testpiece of the wall. Crux is on the wall, but the wobbler is over the roof.

From the low flared hole, make a tough first move then trend left to finish.

Crimpy wall to obvious pocket high up, finishing on jugs.

Up the face.

Corner crack immediately L of Will Robinson

Committing spacey greatness.

High, hard, scary, awesome.

The name says it all. Climb up on amazing thing jugs (no, that's not a typo) to a fantastic committing finish.

Big dyno from the slopey rail to the slopers up high.

Thin, technical and powerful and then a totally desperate crux.

Tackle the window using its right side only.

Straight through the window.

Up the left side of the window, then trend left.

Find two good pockets in the ironstone and then crimp up the short slab.

Hard thin slabbing. Grab the small edge (with your right hand) left of the crozzly ironstone, then powerfully and technically straight up.

Sans mono... Harder...

Sam Healy

Arete left of Pete's Arete. Tried many times by Sharik Walker with no success (when he was ticking multiple V12/13s in a winter...). High and crux in the top.

Powerful cranking off the obvious hole right of the tree. Chris Beers

Jump start with left hand on slopey crimp.

Sit start to Kill The Poor. Impressively flashed by Sharik Walker.

Start low on the big hole and move powerfully up via the slopey pocket.

Off the big hole traverse the break leftwards, then crank up via two good pockets just before the tree.

Vicious! Off the tiny crimps left of the tree.

Two big burly moves. Jump start from the broken edge (just right of the arete) to the jugs, then pull hard for the top.

Jump start then up the breaks right of the arete. Needless to say, the wall on the left is off.

Up the arete of Dave's Butt, finishing over right.

Classy climbing up the middle of the buttress. No sides.

Jump start.

Dynamically off the pocket avoiding the wall on the right.

Layback the little arete.

Short, crimpy and good climbing up the centre of the wall.

A shortish arete with some immaculate climbing. Technical, balancey and a brilliant classic. Stay on the right side.

A techo little traverse from around the other side of the arete into the start of My Tie.

Great climbing on bullet hard stone. Up the wall left of arete.

Hard crimpy stuff left of Blackback.

Juggy fun right of the cave.

Start low and right, finish high and left.

The buttress.

Short technical and committing climbing up the seam.

Crouch/sit start on the double barrel pockets in the middle of the wall and use an array of perfect slopes and edges to top out over the lip slightly to the right.

Same start as Zenith but finishing directly above by jumping to the rail and topping out using the three slopey bumps over the lip.

Sit start on the right arete with right hand on a low sidepull and left hand on a three finger pocket. Head left towards Zenith Direct using a fat pinch and a reach, finishing as for that problem.

Sit start as for “Kenneth the Menneth” but go directly up to a tricky mantle. Meedu

Start matched in the left start jug of Zenith before big move off undercling and good ledge to sharp crimp. Move up to another edge before moving back right to top out as for Zenith Direct. Jugs on Zenith are out for hands

Do the traverse into lefth

Tackle the rounded roof right of the main overhang.

The main line up the centre, start on the right.

Off the lowish right facing sloper, make a couple of powerful moves up and right before escaping left to finish.

Jump to the juggy feature on the far left of the wall, then muscle up.