Routes in Central Australia

A reasonably obvious crack roughly 4m from the L end of the face

The obvious chimney at the L end of the face

An attractive line, climbed two days after a 70's party to end all 70's parties. The obvious crack R of Dabadoo. Up scoop on intricate jugs, then up where line eases slightly. Finish up wall near bush on some fantastic (but dubious) metallic coated jugs.

Just in case you need that big wall experience - this climb is a complete waste of time. Tucked away where the creek takes a bend 100m L of the main cliff. Solo past the D-shackles, then jump off into the sand below. DBB to avoid such an epic descent. (Edit July 2014: Solo D-Shackle and only a single homemade hanger at the DBB. Walk off possible to the left)

Climb curving corner-crack directly below hanging boulder 50m L of main cliff.

200m R of the Superfreak buttress, and 80m R of two detatched pinnacles. L leaning crack then back R to main crack that splitts butress.

L most climb on wall. Not really worth the effort. One BR.

Originally protected by 4 ugly D-Shackles; now chopped, the line can be easily protected. Start 5m right of SM on the steep straight crack behind a tree. Up 2m to a ledge then up steeply past technical jamming, unexpected holds can be found when the going gets really tough. Yes it really is a 21 and no more clues than that. SSB, back it up! (Edit July 2014: No SBB, trad anchor or topout.)

Large scoop 2m R of AC to block, up to high BR, then straight up on delicate crimps (don’t give into temptation and step left into jugs) past another BR to DBB.Now equipped (as of April 2021) with FH 2m off the ground to protect the start

Pumpy and solid at the grade. Start 1m R of TM, directly under FH. Climb though bulge and move up face past 2 BR. Belay as for TM

R side of main cliff face. Climb starts 1m R of unused white FH. Climb face on the R of 2 FH, clipping them on the way. At chossy finger ledge head L and up past FH, and over bulge to top. DBB

The first climb on the L end of the main cliff. Climb prominent crack on the L side of the small arete. Tend R from small ledge halfway up. BB.

Can be top roped from DBB. Left trending crack, layback to the awkward mantle onto the ledge, then continue on easier ground to a second left trending crack.

Variant start (13) avoid corner, and ascends ramp to the R, to join the line.

Ends at FHB. Good crack climbing. Ramp 5m R of WFA to L leading diagonal crack (next crack R of WFA).

Up the L tending crack R of FT. Up to bolt, then smear like a demon through the crux. Continue up line to DBB.

L trending crack 1m R of TOMP (just R of arete) to small ledge. Step R, and up to belay as for TOMP

This climb is in the gap - please do not climb it.

Just L of the waterhole are two slabs, with an overhanging wall separating the two. This climb ascends the L one. At small ledge follow the obvious rising zigzag with some tricky moves to a good finger edge and what probably passes for the crux. Then follow centre of slab to top

1. Start 5m right og the left hand end of the inset arch, climb the undercling crack and follow it righ towards the apex.

2. Committing moves from the belay off right using the jug then easy diagonal traverse up and right to a small ledge. Belay here or continue 5m to a large ledge.

3. Whatever you like - moving up the roof corner from large ledge is about a 15 and a touch thrutchy.

Neil had balls - I like that! ;-) Offwidth leading to diagonal ramp about 5m R of LFS. DBB.

Good value. Major corner-crack and slanting roof 100m L of waterhole. Start at flat dirt spot (just R of a white ghost gum), below crack and large prominent corner.

1. 45m Up crack to bush, then corner to slanting roof. Around this and up to semi-hanging belay.

2. 20m Traverse 8m R till a weakness (directly below large tree) leads to large ledge.

Walk off L, or climb short wall above (Mark Rewi, 05/04/98).

This is the popular black slab to the R of the TEG. When the waterhole is high, this climb may be inaccessible. Otherwise a small sandbar leads to the base. Straight up middle of slab (tricky start). Poor pro, but can be toproped by climbing up the easy arete around the corner.

From the carpark, locate the big flake about 200m L (W) of gap. Nice but escapable. Walk to the base of the flake, at L leaning ramps and tree. Thin crack 3m R of ramp. Hard start can be avoided by traversing in from L. Climb face all the way, veering L before big flake. Along flake, then straight up and over to shallow corner. Scramble off L or R

The R side of the arch, then undercling out and over roof to join CC

Start 10m R of CV on a ledge with a small conifer. Climb face and vertical crack to L leading ramps. Up to belay at piton.

3m R of RAK is a thin crack. Up this to faces and mini-roofs to ledge, step R, up corner and straight up middle of the lovely face to top (poor pro).

Up the massive L corner crack, L of TPA, the final bulge being the crux.

As for ES for 3m, then step R and up overhang to lovely cracks above.

Weakness 1m R of FV. Straight up ramp above to BB

Face 1.5m L of useless white FH, past BR, then up to BR on SM. Step R up steep bulge to DBB

This and following three climbs are on a large and obvious semi detached arch at the far L end of the cliff, about 200m L of the waterhole. Climb the huge crack up the L side of the arch to its apex, then over roof to nice face above.

Start 3m L of First Temptation. Up wall BR, FH, then R along diagonal rooflet 2FH, DBB.

This climb takes wider crack 2m R of Kirsty's Unnamed climb, and traverses into the main line after 5m

Another good line. Start 4m R of TDA70s. Follow the crack line (intricate pro) to mantle at ledge. Up, veering R at top

Much better (and harder) than it looks. The prominent crack leading up from a small cave another 4m R of CP. Head up through straggly jungle vine and past cave (you can see right through the buttress here!). Diagonally R and over roof (crux). Keep following crack up and then diagonally L on reasonably solid rock, but be careful of the large precarious triangular block most of the way up. It should stay in place but use it carefully

The line of pockets on the orange rock at the L end of the S face. Start just L of Mr Ed's Chimney. Traverse diagonally up and L to join the line of pockets (take some good cams for the pockets)

A quality line with good pro R of MEC. The R facing corner, crack, then up and through bulges to top

Locate the thin right-leaning line 10m from the L end of the N face. Follow the diagonal line to an easier finish. Start is hard to protect.

An entertaining thrash up a steep line on the N wall. Follow the pocketed crack approximately 10m N of the saddle. Upon reaching the ledge after the main difficulties, continue up the line until a move R (below a suss block) leads to easy ground

Good climbing but the lack of pro would guarantee a crater if you fell. Groove 2m R of TE past obvious thread to finish on the ramp. Initially Lucas lead a lot of the climb onsight, but accepted a top rope thrown from above rather than risk the consequences

Great climbing with bomber gear. At the right end of the face are some obvious big 'hueco' holes, R of the major overhang. Join the dots and head up the line of pockets to finish on the ramp.

The obvious LH crack. Up slanting crack and past bulge to top.

The right obvious crack

Nice moves. Start just R of orange rock at the L end of the south face. Up brown wall with some fear and trepidation to reach good edges. A bold lead due to its runout and potential ground plant finish

Excellent and steep, sustained headwall. Starting 5m left of the left hand end of the triangle roof just below a piton at 6m. Up past the piton and trend back right to a block at the overlap. Pass the block on it's left before continuing past a 2nd pin and sustained climbing. Solid grade for 19.

Dirty, crumbly climb up the right hand end of the wall. Straight up, can be done in one pitch with a 60m rope. Wear a helmet! Good fun on the squeeze and jam on the boulder near the top.

More of the same - climb the R crack where they split. Really there is very little difference between the two climbs.

A Brilliant mix of technical and strenuous climbing. As for SOB to the cave, then straight up the sustained crack system above (beware potential loose rock)

Obvious left facing corner. Nice and varied climbing on partially suspect rock.

A fantastic climb with everything you need: nice sequences, exposure and enough protection to keep you happy. Climb face to left trending crack, which you follow to the top.

A Strenuous and sustained crack 3m L of CC.

This Climb is stunning, a very awkward and difficult recessed chimney. Simply (!) climb the left tending chimney with a thought-provoking move right at the top.

Probably climbed earlier. pitch 1 45M 14. Pitch 2 25m 14. Pitch 3 50m 14

Start near a small tree in the middle of the cliff and follow the broken vertical crack for 3m, then make a rising rightward traverse following the thin crack

Straight up almost vertical crack line approx 4m R of LLDL.

Excellent steep finger crack, starts at R end of wall, just at the chimney descent. Short and strenuous crack leads to easier climbing.

Lovely right leaning double diagonal cracks on the L side of the terrace.

Starts about 4m R of BSB. Climb weakness then veer L and straight up wall to an easy finish. An alternate finish (CC,same grade) is to climb the line direct, taking care of loose rock.

Perfect protection and solid rock. Takes the main corner / recess. From the top of the cracks, wander up a further 8m, finishing at ghost gum (or continue up corner above for a further 15m).

Start 2m R of corner. Climbs central crack leading direct to ghost gum at 20m (or continue up corner another 7m to slings).

Excellent naturally protected route up the steep wall between OFTG and SBM. The route was originally intended to be bolted the week before the first natural ascent - hence the name! Start 2m right of OFTG, bold moves up the lower wall lead to ledge and gear, then follow the ragged crack until it trends right to the finish

Super thin climbing up 4 FH's on the small buttress at the left end of the crag.

The easier of Paul's new sport climbs, just L of Shades of Blue

Start at the left hand arete just right of The Mr T Variant. Climb up and right into the crack and on to the top.

The line of four FH's in the middle of the wall. Clipping the first bolt is advisable as the thin crux is right off the ground. Powerful boulder problem to gain ledge before climbing eases to DBB

This and the next two climbs are located on a small buttress 15m right of the main cliff. Access to DBB (carrots about 5m back from the edge) is via the right hand end of the cliff. This climb is the crack on the left edge of the face. Slopey holds, tough for the grade and sparse on gear

The pumpy crack on the right end of the face, with a small arete just to its right.

Start just right of Borrowed Time, crossing that route and climbing the left arete.

A fantastic line, and amazing climbing in a proud position. Start on the far R of main cliff. Climb short wall (FH) to cave and bolt (requires bracket) then L and up (take #9 wire to better protect moves to the next FH). Up to horizontal, then L and nice climbing up line to double diagonal cracks - (lower off possible here 25m, 25). Into corner and up (crux) to another diagonal crack. Up on pockets, traverse along L leading diagonal, then straight up past another FH to finish at chain on huge block. Possible to lower to shackles with a 60m rope.

Situated on Lower Benstead, before you get to the main cliff. Start about 10m R of giant fig tree. Good, steep face climbing up 5 BR's to chain

Access is an issue

Takes the line of least resistance up the main cliff, taking wall R of the major cave up on the left. Upon approach, walk up the L side of the cliff until you climb up a small step. A large diagonal crack leads up to the R takes good natural gear, take a few cams of all sizes.

1. 25m 21. Steep start eases to nice climbing up line. Strenuous moves lead past small hanging corner (#1 friend) to a good jug, then continue up left to DBB (25m abseil from here).

2. 25m 22. Traverse 5m R to gain diagonal crack (crux). Up this till it ends, then straight up (poor pro) to the slab above . Traverse L to 45m rap from rings to the ground.

The Vertical crack 4m R of corner, although a bit loose to start. Finish L to Ghost gum, or it is possible to continue up steeping crack for another 7m to higher ledge.

Another classic line that looks dubious, but provides excellent moves and positions, with safe protection. Start as for OWTD, but traverse L below the roof and up L facing corner with increasing difficulty, until forced to make an exposed step R onto the black slab.

Direct start to MG (meets MG after the traverse under the roof).

Improbable looking line for the grade. Start 4m L of the obvious corner (TU). Climb up to and surmount the roof and continue to ledge, where the climbing eases a little.

A great steep and sustained line that meanders up the chocolate mudcake. Start at a small corner 6m right of Scorpion and make a rising traverse to a cavelet at 8m. Travers up and right for3m then follow vertival cracks before trending back left to a second cavelet. Exit right or left taking a rising left line viz cracks to the top.

Follows large W facing corner in the middle of the crag. A sustained and interesting climb with good rock. At Guano streaked ledge, traverse up and L onto slab to belay at a good horizontal crack.

2nd Pitch to TU, and exit pitch for the other routes that finish here. Climb the thought provoking V-Notch, trending R to finish.

A supurb line with some intimidating moves. Take plenty of small cams. Follows the main cracks 6m L of the corner (TGC). Towards the top trend left to the base of the orange corner. Have a rest and make exposed moves to pull through this. Belay immediately above at fixed slings.

Outstanding climbing, technically sustained, with holds and gear appearing when you need them. Follow the thin crack 2m L of the corner (TGC) until it runs out below the headwall. Traverse R a few metres and continue up crack system that breaks through headwall. Exit L to belay ledge and fixed slings.

Direct finish to GN. Instead of traversing R, continue direct (placing gear in the corner/crack) before making an airy step onto the headwall and climbing this direct.

Fiddly gear at 2/3 height, but great climbing if you don't pump out protecting it. Start immediately left of the small pine. Climb up to, and follow L trending crack. When the crack seems to run out, tricky moves up and L gain a 2nd, slightly steeper crack. Exit R at the top to avoid loose blocks.

Climbs the blank looking face about 6m left of DV that yeilds a fun line on thin holds and gear. Starts directly below huge hanging flake that leans out from the top of the wall. Straight up face on thin positive holds and cracks, trending slightly right on easier ground to finish up the face just R of flake.

Wild line on natural pro, taking the mot prominent crack line immediately left of OFTG. Hard, technical start to gain crack at 4m

Another excellent, sustained mixed route taking a direct line up the highest section of the cliff. Start 3m right of TFTBF below a small dish. Balance up and clip FH, before ticky moves lead to good holds up high. Continue past second FH, finishing up a small vertical crack

As for SBM to just below the second FH, then step right and follow the ragged, rightward trending crack

Steep, sustained and tough for the grade. The rising rightward line at the far left end of the cliff. Fingery moves to start before gaining first FH, trend rightward to second FH, then straight up

This route follows the major crack and left facing corner in the cliff that is prominent from both the drive into Simpson's Gap as well as from Hat Hill Saddle on the Larapinta Trail. A sustained climb with a worthwhile crux and incredible view from the top. It is possible to downclimb once ascended by heading to the West about 50m and then down the east trending ramp. Rap off the pine tree at the top at your own risk (how deep are those roots?) if you have an 80 metre rope.

Walk east from Hammer around the buttress about 50m and as you look up you'll see a prominent crack leading to an area that opens up a bit at the top and also with a left facing corner at the top (the highest point of the cliff).

Climb the overhung wall and arete to chain.

Heading up the short wall right of Mixed Emotions this is a steep climb that doesn't give you much rest, while there is good gear, finding and placing it will seep your strength away. Start up the right tending crack in the middle of the wall, after the crack continue up the blocky section to finish at the right hand end of the top of the wall. A harder direct finish awaits through the middle of the wall, which was simply too hard for this old fella on the day.

A very thin, slightly overhanging bolted line in the centre of the buttress. Start on the big chalked undercling, up through tiny crimps passing a BR, grit your teeth through the crux, clip FH then big moves on big holds to top out. Has also been bouldered at V7

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZtwwLZOx590

Chimney Boulder problem

Boulder Problem

More of a short Boulder Problem

Strenuous start leads to jugs, then committing moves on incut crimps to top. Stand start on jugs goes at V1

has both a left and right hand start, right being easier. Jugs lead through slightly loose rock to top