Routes in The Grotto Cliffline

Yes you can have it the nice looking wall thing which is just about impossible at 25.

Sit start on the left side of the roof. Move out the roof to join in the top out of Trackside.

Marked with "V6 Sit Start". Sit start on the right side of the roof. Move out the roof to top out.

Open project. Outrageous. Start up Shadow Puppets, link into View From The Afternoon, link into Konglomeraid, then finish up the face to top out. Will need a sport grade its that long!

Located at bottom of cave. Sit start matched on slopey jug. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse left to jug above the LHS boulder. match this and step off.

Sit start at bottom of cave, just in front of the RHS boulder, with left hand in good slot and right hand on side pull. Climb straight up to next break, then traverse right to gain sloper jugs in large pocket. From here, head straight up, finishing with a big move around roof to a jug. Back wall is out (no dab).

Start on low crimps, just inside cave entrance. Big move up to sloper break (conglomerate band) and follow this around the round arete and finish matched on crimp (left side of arete).

Start in slopey break, just left of tree. Through conglomerate to sus jug. Up to side pull then continue up to jugs and high top out.

Delicious rising sloper traverse with a perfect jug pebble to rest on. Low sit start on the flat jug on the far right. Top out on the far left

Low sit start with left hand on good crimp (far left) and right hand on pinch block. Head up face to eventually pull onto right side of arete for the top out.

Goes up the left face of this boulder. Sit start left hand on slimper (inside wide crack) and right hand on good side pull down low.

Go up.

Stand Start on the ledge, straight up to the crack below the moss covered top section.

Stand start, climb up the right face of the arete until you hit the moss, climb out to the left and descend in the chimney (being careful of the stinging tree).

standing start high as you can reach on the sloper, Climb straight up and then traverse out to the right to get down.

Stand start in the middle of the wall, left hand on small pinch and right on sloper. Go straight up and toping out in cave, to get down either downclimb or traverse out right side of cave.

Start matched on the obvious jug. Traverse left on good holds then pull the lip and top out.

On right side of the face, start on the two crimps in the hueco thing. Head up and left, before moving to the right to finish up Weak And Gympie.

Same start as The Gympie Who Loved Me, but keep heading left to jug and pull lip here. Top out as per Gympie Kraft.

Sit start matched on the rail (left side of the face). Bust out right into flake and turn on your go-go-gadget arms to grab heuco further right. From here, head straight up to jugs around lip and top out.

Mega classic. V7 if you’re Alec or Pat

Same start as Gympie Kraft. From the flake, big move to lip, traverse left then mantle and up.

Perfect line straight up the shard of rock. Way above my pay grade, I'm guessing v5+.

Stand Start climbing the right face of arete, then follow the arete up to top out.

Stand Start climbing the left face of arete, starting left hand on rail crimp and right hand on the arete. There is a sit start here for someone stronger than me.

Same sit start as "Nobody puts Harry in a corner", but climbs up and to the right to top out, be careful of the flake.

Sit start laybacking into the corner on the side pull. Straight up to a top out.

Sit start is slightly harder here, then straight up to the top out.

Sit or stand start doesn't make much of a difference, then straight up to top out.

Same start as Off The Rungs but go directly up on the jugs

A true crag classic, worth the drive. Could be V3 if you’re a rung. Sit start, left hand in good hold above head.

A popular route. Enjoyable climbing and rock. Marred by the reinforced flake.

Hard crux at the start then cruisey.

climb the corner crack and tree upto the anchors of "root me"

Up just left of the palm tree, possibly through it depending on how long it has been

Start as for 'Depleted Gonad Circumference', then follow the line of rings adjacent to that route. This route has the hardest single move on the wall (and it has claimed many egos).

2x clip-and-go biner anchors.

Start in Open corner left of DGC. Up corner and wall to ledge, then up overhanging arete and across void to anchors.

This is the direct. Hard to believe it goes at just 23. Well it does if you don't rip your finger nails off trying.

A great route as you still have to do the Johnny Dawes move that i learnt after a coaching clinic with the man himself. Though i never used it again after this climb.

Start: The left start of the direct line that goes up the black wall to mid height.

Black wall right of worm. Go up crack then across right to do the Johny Dawes dyno.

The crack to the ledge. Quite good!

Up The Shoot Root etc then continue up black wall. Hard to get on the wall feel free to molest the little fig tree.

Way hard for a 16 better climb solid 18 before you jump on this little number, now consensus grade is 19

Start: At undercut groove thing just right of WOAR

The arete right of Worm. Bloody hard for a 16.

Varied climbing with great exposure. Start in the crack, then slightly right on to the arete/slab, all the way up through the chimney. Take lots of draws, consider stick-clipping the first.

Anchor Replaced - B. Rattenbury 10/9/10

Avoids the groove start

Start: At 'Jester'

Up left of Jester. This can give climbers with knee troubles the chance to go to hospital.

Up for snowman then diagonal up the wall in from arete, then to arete near little roof. From here go right then up to hole and anchors. Makes iceman obsolete as it should.

As for Dry Tooling but at the last bolt on it go up and left to break, one more bolt, and anchors at the top of the arete.

Up sun Machine then up on left of arete all the way to top left set of anchors

Start 4m R of Evil E, stick clip and batman to start. The climbing is barely any harder than Evil E but is more sustained, and just as brilliant. It's easy to place the draws while lowering off Evil E if you want the soft option.

As for Insane Funk and the Evil Grip but go right out of the hole at the third bolt across a few crimps back into Evil E rather than left into Funky Gripster.

Batman to start of Evil E. Move left and do the crux of Insane in the Brain then left at the 4th bolt into the undercling crux of Funky Gripsta. Under the rooflet, move right a metre and finish up Evil E through its crux. Classic link up.

Make sure you traverse right into Evil E directly after the crux of Funky - if you find yourself at the kneebar rest, you've gone much too far. Give yourself 28 if you do it this way.

Start 5m R of the flake of Funky Gripsta. Stick clip & batman to start. Excellent bouldery moves most of the way, with possible heartbreak high and an inspired runout to finish.

An old project dispatched. Stick clip and batman to the start jug of Evil E, then head left and up to join Funky Gripsta. Excellent boulder problem and then pump to the top. About as hard as Evil E.

Batman Start 4m left of Evil E. A Pumper! Awesome!

This is the left arete of the awesome hanging wall. Climb from the ground to a sustained boulder problem past the last 2 bolts.

Start as per GITH then go right.

Climbs the middle of the short overhanging wall just up and left of The Hood wall.

Slick holds and a couple of punchy moves.

Start just left of Girls in the Hood. Climb the crack feature, step right then back left to anchors.

Better finish to Joy mitten. Goes all the way!

Start about 2m left of 'Joy Mitten'. Climb the unlikely looking wall to small ledge then continue slightly left and on up the arete.

Was 3 bolt project

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Quite a unique climb with a particularly tricky mantle shelf and a stiff little ending.

Start: A few meters to the right of the wide crack S&MAA

The bolted crackline. Finishes at the top of cliff after a leftward traverse. Single U anchor is to assist with cleaning.