Ascents in Simple Simon Slabs having Beta

Nice. I did a direct finish where I went straight up afte the only pro on the climb was clipped. This was better than the original.o

Hey Damian I know you’re probably going to read this so I am using this public to platform to state my opinion. Brian has a proofread copy of your new guidebook and I read it today. overall really cool and I’ll definitely be picking up a copy. But in the central slabs, on extreme youth you said something along the lines of “this climb is nowhere near as extreme as it youth to be”. This is disgusting, please don’t print this as it is one of the worst puns I have seen in a very long time.

The proper slab start (unprotected until you get to the crack) deserves a more difficult grade, particularly for leading. Tim did a few moves on lead, bailed, did an easier start to the right and traversed back to the route. The slab start is practically blank with only the tiniest crystals to work with. Fun crack/slab combo climbing throughout, an awkward finish with a poorly protected traverse topping out into a steep wide channel between two rocks.

I am happy to have had an opportunity to climb/second this route, but I will probably never repeat it or lead it. It's great fun, but it feels like the flake that makes the main crack for this climb is not long for this world. It's incredibly hollow and moved slightly with the touch. Even if the whole thing doesn't come off, it feels like sections of it could. 90% of the protection for this climb goes behind the flake. It just doesn't seem worth the risk.

Oh my calves .. after so long lol! Oh .. and the walk from the campground and the current bush bash. It's a big day!

On initial attempt fell just at the first bolt, fortunately had already placed a nut in the crack below.

Some prominent lumps scudding off under my feet. The climb is probably graded 20 now with many of its holds disappearing over time.

With Gavin Voight on CCA club day.

Nice. Easy to protect until the last dash to the top

CCA trip to Tower Rocks and the Cloisters.

grubby, but fun

Nice balancy moves to start - very good

Seemed harder than 17, with well spaced bolts.

Beautiful slab and crack

Got shut down on that first slab from the deck! Once to the crack, all lovely times.

Good stuff. Left behind a red torque nut (DMM hex) right at the start. Lemme know if you can knock it out!

Hmm, climbing shoes may have been more suitable. still fun though

Good fun

Really nice and easy

Nice, more than a grade easier than yesterday’s

Good fun

Scary step across to wide crack

the brushed slab start is nowhere near 10, maybe 18? For a start at the grade, follow the crack from the ground

Ok, there’s meant to be two routes? That explains the bizzare traverse bolting

Quality slabbing

A bit run out for a beginner lead I would have thought.

Happy with this one! Good crystals, nice climbing. Second clip a little scary but not too bad.

Had to dig out some of the crystals on the slab. Does impinge on smooth dancer but not too bad.

With the moss on the slab it is necessary to start on tartanella (or whatever it is). Then the top is irish nose. Not much original climbing really.

Very nice.

Well the bottom 2/3rd's is new!

nice

I slid down the starting slab twice hitting the ground so red point it is.

Easy and good

Good and not too hard, easier than High Diddle

Really enjoyable.

Good climb, probably won't try leading it.

Decent climb. Pretty mossy particularly at the traverse to get to the crack.

Excellent easy climb

Good slab climbing with well-placed bolts

Costanza's 1st climb!

Lovely nubbins and edges.

with wallwombat and wetwide&slippery. Now this is a 9. A great beginners slab.