Nodes in Cania Gorge

Caution, this is not a "Sports Crag" The area is remote, mobile phone coverage is patchy at best. In the event of an accident the logistics of raising a rescue are immense.

The northern-most walls of Cania.

An deceptive little sucker... Quite a nice splitter despite the tree guarding the start! The first obvious splitter crack you come to after The Castle, walking east.

Up the right side of the broken face. Quite a committing top section.

The broken face just round the corner from the small cave. Follow the line of lease resistance with plenty of nut placements.

Climbs up the centre of the pillar just to the right of the large cave ending in a spectacular position on top of the pillar with great views to the Dam. To reach belay pull around lip of cave and traverse carefully across mossy wall to belay at base of left leaning corner. Climbs corner direct slinging tree at half height to juggy face above finishing on top of pillar. Downclimb easy face to rap off tree to clean.

In the main roof section of The North. Follows the high corner roof crack, starting off eerie hanging diving boards.

Average rock quality and potential wasps.

Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy.

Named after a faithful friend who is so wiped he couldn't make the trip this Easter. Tricky start to slaby finger crack breach the first overhang on jugs to hands/ finger crack with a few hand hold to the second over hang get some exposure navigating this overhang to chimney top out super fun climb!

Voices of the Sky's northern brother. Fantastic.

Either a pleasant bridging jaunt or squeeze. Pick your poison. The R-facing wide corner crack on the upper tier left of Voices of the North. Tiptoe respectfully around the ferns onto the R face up through divine unlikely pockets.

About 50m left of Lithophyte you'll find this fractured face. Launch up the right side of the face and embrace the grin on your face as you swim your way through unlikely shell-pieces. A beaut for the grade.

Quite high. 30 min walk. It is possible to walk off the eastern side and follow track around southern side to get off top.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Abseil down to the large ledge just left of the finish to Amateur Theatrics. Climb the prominent diagonal crack up rightwards to the crux where it bends towards vertical near the top. Very sustained.

The continuously technical overhanging thin crack immediately right of Something Wicked. Crux at the top.

The arete left of Sunset Wall.

Closed project may need a bolt or 2 at the end. Stay off please.

Totally worth the 9 hour round trip from Emerald (or even the 12 hour round trip from Brisbane)! A stellar line that meanders its way up an improbably blank looking face through just enough holds and some really amazing moves. Starts punching from the ground and just keeps coming all the way up to the spectacularly airy finish. Led as a pure sport route but there is additional pro for the run out sections if you so desire.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Open project. Crux hold broke off making it significantly harder. Grade 26ish. Take a #1 cam for between the 4th and 5th bolt.

The large cave and adjacent walls.

Starts 10m left of Cathedral cave. Follow the thin right-leaning crack to a small cave at 30m (belay possible). Step up right from the cave to an awkward mantle onto a ledge then traverse delicately left to the arête in an airy position. Easily to top.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Memorable route with a memorable name.

Start on left side of Cathedral Cave. Up the juggy start to break, passing three bits of fixed protection. Long move off the break using jug and good holds, continue to the top swerving in and around another 10 pieces of fixed protection.

You are a mug if you don't get on this super superb climb.

Belay on tree back from edge.

Start up the crack on the right hand side of the cave. Climb up and traverse left to the centre of the roof. Still waiting for a red point ascent

A brilliant sustained route in an exposed position. Climbs the obvious corner hanging over the right hand side of the cave. Take double ropes and lots of small cams. Dyno up on fig tree branches through the tunnel in the foliage until you hit rock and a welcome cam placement. Then climb up to and past a band of sandy rock (two bolts) to a stance at the bottom of the big smooth corner. This is where the fun starts. Climb the corner with increasing difficulty to the top where an escape, past a bolt, onto the right wall is possible. Then swing right again to a stance of sorts, then move up to a horizontal break and welcome runners. Figure a way across to the bolt on left. Then hand traverse further left for 3 meters on decreasing foot holds to gain another bolt. Hang in there its nearly over. Climb up past one more bolt and a horizontal break (good runners) to a grim lichen infested exit. Belay off trees. Lots of them.

The squeeze slot between Cathedral cave and the Serenity Ledge

From the ledge, follow the crack up to the Ledge. From ledge, keep left, following the easiest way up.

Shares the start of Serenity. Up crack to ledge, where Serenity goes left. Keep climbing straight up where a committing move (crux) will gain you the wall above. Continue up the line and belay in a small recess. 2nd pitch (grade 15) follows the exposed continuation crack to top.

Walk 50m past Cathedral Cave and into the slot between the main wall and a detached boulder. At the end of this slot, there is a crack. Belay here.

Pitch 1 - 14 - Up crack easily to the vegetated ledge (can belay/rap from here). Scramble around the large alcove to the right and then trend back to the left and up for a ways, with gear deteriorating when slopey, sandy bulges are found. Belay underneath obvious right-facing corner. 40m.

Pitch 2 - 17 - Straight up off belay and get established in right-facing corner (crux). This pitch has great gear and climbing. Top out and belay in recess 2m back from the cliff.

Rap tatt is installed lookers right 10m from the top out. One 35m rap will get you to the vegetated ledge. Downclimb or rap again from here.

An old school classic, definitely not recommended for sport climbers. You will need to watch out for the odd loose flake and hollow block, not to mention the big sandy cave. This is the deep line that goes straight up the middle of the high, pale orange wall about 100m right of Firefly. Climb the steep groove past a short desperate layback section until you find yourself in the sandy cave. Bridge around the huge capstone, which has an ancient rap sling wrapped around it, and mantle onto a welcome ledge. The climbing steps up a gear here. Crank upwards on widely spaced holds and good gear to a good stance. Take care on the last moves into the belay cave as they are thin and quite run out. Rap off bolts. A second pitch awaits.

I’m not sure where the name came from, but it seems appropriate. It follows the prominent corner/chimney system midway between Gravel and Wine and Killer Whale. The rock architecture is pretty spectacular around here. Take big gear and wear a helmet.

1. 30m. 20. Climb the glassy smooth body crack corner which soon narrows abruptly to an offwidth. The crux involves getting past this constriction. Once you have done so, continue up more easily on thin face holds to a comfortable belay ledge below the looming chimney. Led by Alex Christino.

2. 25m. 17. Ascend the chimney until progress is halted by the ceiling. Then bridge horizontally out under the 8m roof in a spectacular position. Exit the ceiling on the left hand side and layback up to a good ledge. Watch out for loose rock here, especially as you are directly above the belay. Finish easily up leftwards to a big tree. Led by Joe Lynch.

1. 30m. Climb the slabby corner guarded by a bold start. Traverse to the left most crack and fire up the 30 degree overhang on sporty crimps and fiddly placements until you reach a stopper crux just before the angle relents. Take a rest and continue up easy twin cracks and belay on the ledge.

2. 10m. Up chimney then trend left on juggy slab.

The sportiest sector in Cania. Gets all day shade.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Starts just left of the start of Lucky 13 and then follow bolts up the arete, eventually finishing on the left side of the arete.

To start this adventure either start on the ground ( best position for your belayer) and solo up 8m to ledges or start on the ledges, (same as killer whale ) take a deep breath and climb the overhanging coral on thread runners,till you joyously reach the first piece of fixed protection. Continue cranking though the crux's till you reach the slab. Put on your ballet shoes and tip toe up the slab till you reach a small roof, over this on jugs to gain a ledge. Bumble on till you reach the second roof, mantle over the lip and rejoice,take in some fresh air and run up the easy slab to belay.

Airy climbing following the great holds up the obvious arête.

An obvious arête line until you reach a stopper crux high up in space. Grade 25+. Open project.

A steep, unrelenting face climb that goes straight up the middle of the gently overhanging wall left of Organ Failure. Take a set of wires - there are three placements after the last bolt. Double bolt rap station.

A pumpy warmup. Exit right and trad belay at the top.

Located on southern side of castle. Stays in shade. Up lay back crack moving left around enormous chockstone. Bring 5 and 6 cams. Belay on top of chockstone.

From top of huge chockstone, climb leaning corner crack to top of pillar. Pull onto face with awkward moves up to a ledge. Up and around to top.

The overhanging corner right of Transplant Rejection.

An absolutely outrageous roof climb in a fantastic position. Start below the obvious 7 metre offwidth roof on the shady side of the Castle. You can't miss it.

1. 15m. 19. Up the deep line to a triple bolt hanging belay just below the roof. Be careful of the rock on this pitch.

2. 25m. 25M0. Traverse out along the roof to a couple of extremely welcome jugs at the lip. Two guide bolts either side of the lip ensure that the rope doesn't stray too far into the crack. After turning the lip, launch straight into a desperate 20 degree overhanging offwidth. This eventually narrows all the way down to a finger crack before the angle eases to vertical.

Start to right of Divine under line of bolts up wall. Five bolts up wall to ledge. then pull through roof on jugs to mount sandy chock stone. Then blast up over hanging line on the left. Full rack required for top crack. 3rd bolt out of sight on ledge.

Follow the line of ring bolts up the arete and face. You can lower of the top with 70m rope.

On the right of the divine wall the cliff breaks down to lichen covered walls with a few cracks up them. Here you will find Sherpas Tensing, the the first right hand corner from divine wall.

Layback or heel/toe up the corner with the wide crack on left, until you can move easily onto the face, then upwards to the large ledge. Rap off tree.

The fused corner. Stem up past 6 bolts to a #1 cam placement. Up past another bolt and nut placement to top out on ledge. Rap off tree.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Past the blow hole and around the corner, before the cliff peters out.

Up right side of the cave and then continue straight up, finding gear in cracks and breaks all the way. A bit fragile, climb carefully.

Trad anchor to belay. Scramble up another 10-15m to the top and walk down the gulley further right to get back to the ground.

The long length of cliffline situated between the Castle and Porange Wall.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Short like James' temper but pleasant like his charm. This delightful hand crack stays shady in the morning making for a perfect warm up to start the day.

The first line on this face. Climb up through the jungle of vines then into easy chimney. Trad belay in cave.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Start behind the big tree. Up the twin cracks and into the chimney at the top. Climb to the back of the chimney and exit through the hole at back of cave.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Wander up the face between the two trees, to the right of the wide start of "You Bumble That". Good pro down the bottom and up the top, but quite scarce in the middle.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

The next four climbs start on a ledge 8m from ground level. Scramble up easy slab and tree to access.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

The tree has since fallen out witch may have made this easyer as the cruxs was getting around the tree.

Offwidth corner starting from a ledge 10m from the base of the cliff. Graded 19, but Tony would say it's a 20.

Back down to ground level.

The crack and juggy face just to the right of the Lizard Ledge.

Starts from the ledge and climbs up the finger crack with plenty of face holds.

Up face and arete. Starts from the ledge.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

Up the orange face passing a cool little cave. Traverse right along ledge and continue up left trending crack.

Keep walking along the cliff face, through a large tunnel, and across the ledge until you come to the obvious squeeze chimney Cerberus.

P1)18 P2)16

The devil will meet you here! Climb the offwidth to the left of AOD to cave. Go right and up flake then continue straight up the wide crack to trad belay in cave.

Avoids all the offwidths. Climbs the handcrack to cave and then up the flake. Instead of continuing up the wide crack above, hand traverse left then up thin corner crack. Continue up the widening crack with plenty of face holds to trad belay in cave.

Start as per Antivenom and continue straight up the crack and face passing 4 bolts.

This unrelenting offwidth is sure to get your blood pumping. Take lots of big gear!

The pleasant crack and chimney in the corner.

Up the face to the right of Cranky Boys Corner passing one bolt and a tree on the way up.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

The large corner to the right of the big orange face. Lots of different ways to climb so choose your own adventure.

Starts behind the large boulder. Chimney up to steep hand crack.

Start up steep fingercrack corner and then more easily up face.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

The wall seen at the head of the valley. Some say its pink, some say its orange.

The finger crack.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense