Nodes in Cania Gorge

Start up triple cracks into broken wide crack. Out of this onto face and up, climbing RH face of gully at the top.

Follow bolts up to horizontal break (cam or wire) then continue up passing 2 more bolts to anchor.

Two routes on the topos were previously listed as A Second of Destruction. This is the one on the right.

Twin cracks 2 m right of ASOD. Up cracks and straight up to tree belay.

Starts at next large crack right of BU. Up wide crack, traverse left and pull over bulge (small wires). Up onto ledge, then right hand facing corner to top. Tree belay(s).

Start at the same crack as MCC, traverse out right and follow the crack passing the tree on the left, then up to the top staying on the right. Tree belay

Boulder up the rippled section to the big ledge, then easily up the lighter coloured rock to tree belay

Shares the start of Marshmellow to the ledge then then up the orange streak. Stand on you belayer's shoulders to reach the pockets or boulder the start.

Boulder problem to the two large pockets (crux) then up to ledge. Thin face climbing up the white streak on small gear (grade 22).

Another crack.

Climb the blank start to the magnificent finger crack. The FFA was done with out a bolt protecting the start.

Start just left of the tree stump and follow the line of bolts straight up.

The right-most crack on the cliff. Hardish start then very fun JamBing and jug hauling to top. Belay from tree on left. Rap off same tree.

Start just left of CS following the line of bolts and natural gear to anchors

The first bolted line on the RHS of the Milky Way. 3 Bolts with supplementary gear and a lower off

The upper tier of the Milky Way.

First crack on the L side of B&J's

in between B and OEF

The bright orange swath of rock with twin cracks on right and large overhanging roof block above. Climb the slippery twin cracks to skirt right around roof to a stance. Move up to horizontal hand crack in side of block, place some pieces and hand traverse over void with a big deadpoint move to gain top. Rap from tree above corner.

the twin crack R of NGV

Start in the middle of the two cracks. Climb the diagonal ramp and up jug ladder and face.

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

There are significant sensitive cultural areas in the south of the park. At least five caves in the southern end of the park show evidence of long established aboriginal occupation. Do NOT climb near the tourist tracks, picnic areas, on private land or any where you may make a bad impression. If you are unsure don't do it till you gain more knowledge ie. use some common sense

The wall at the far left hand end of Four Seasons just before you arrive at the Milky Way. Long, quality routes of a variety of grades.

Locate the left leaning crack in the middle of the wall 30m left of Strange Brothers. This is the second pitch and the money pitch. Access to the ledge via climbing a 10m crack approximately 5m to the right in the corner (pitch 1, grade 15). Climb the left leaning thin splitter to the second ledge (pitch 2, hard), rappel off tree possible. Third pitch starts in the corner to the right and leads to the top of the cliff (pitch 3, grade 15).

An adventurous chimney with an aura of mystery that wasn't lifted until the first ascent finally occurred.

Climb the corner to belay at the base of the void. Climb up the back of the chimney then move out to masive chockstone and gear. Squeeze out the side of chockstone and over. Squeeze up behind the second massive chockstone and climb to top.

Start just to the right of the big chimney. Climb up to the ledge then blast up the thin crack past a hard crux (aided on the FA). Continue up then move right to climb up the face.

A hard start up to the ledge leads to more hard climbing up the crack. Make sure you tape up for this one! Awaiting a free ascent.

The right corner, through cave and up blockey crack. Surprisingly good holds and moves all the way. The first ascent saw a brief battle with a tuft of grass and wasp nests that left the climber in the same state as the rope: dirty and twisted. Rap from a tree to the left.

Starts on the ledge on the right of the wall.

Cruxy moves up corner before following left diagonal crack to join the top of Dirty and Twisted.

A superb climb up superb rock. the moves keep coming all the way. Up the wide crack till it gets wider. Some smaller runners are able to be placed at bulge. Surmount bulge then either continue straight up offwidth, if you have large gear remaining on your rack, or right and up thin crack till able to move easily back left to top of offwidth.

Start 3m left of large corner at obvious offwidth. Solo up inside of chimney on good edges to placement where crack pinches. Pull around left on pockets on inside face of cave above to more pockets and jambs. A bit of knee trickery to pull around under large elkhorns and up slab to belay at large tree. A couple of 120cm runners are handy at top to avoid large block under belay tree.

up corner. belay rap bolts at top

The obvious stonking sickle crack high on the left-hand end of Four Seasons Point. Has the aura of a good ol' Arapiles adventure climb. Above and left of 'CRAIGS Crack' and 'After You'.

Scramble up small wall to belay ledge at the base of the line. Steep jamming, adventurous traversing reminiscent of The Bard, and an exposed grand finale to bring it all home! Bring lots of long extenders to manage your drag. If not, setup a semi-hanging belay mid-traverse. Be wary mounting the hanging magic block in the first 7m ...

The following three routes are located on a wall with a boulder in front. Superb rock. Fun climbs.

left crack on wall. up crack and wall. trending left at half height

I rapped the line and slipped in a couple of bolts."I wanted to climb that"' said youth. "Too late" said I. Youth puts on puppy dog eyes. OK you get first attempt,t if you cant do it first shot I take second shot and if I get up it, I am going to name it after you.

Middle of three routes on wall. Clip bolt from boulder. start low. Up past bolt wire cam to next bolt. crux. then up wall trending left to top.

Right hand arête of wall. Start on the right of course! Up the arête.

Up obvious crack until obvious ledge. Obviously. Traverse around to the left and scramble down the gulley.

Awesome movement. Bomber pro. Brilliant position.

Pitch 1 - 16 - 20m - Climb left facing corner 5m left of Cracklett. Be careful of rubble on the ledge at 10m when pulling up to it. Belay at tree.

Pitch 2 - 19 - 20m - Use bomber .75 and hex to protect awkward fall off belay. Big two moves up and over bulge to the left of the Elkhorn Ferns. Ramble to the left, place good gear and pull through rooflet (crux). Up easily to belay at tree.

Pitch 3 - 16 - 30m - Move belay up vegetated gully 10m to tree growing sideways out of rock. From here, an undercut section starts a right-hand traverse moving upwards once reaching diagonal crack on grey wall. Place friendly gear for the 2nd. Awesome pitch! Cania at its finest.

Belay at boulder at top of cliff. Follow edge 20m to lookers left to rap off tree. 60m rope is sufficient.

Up crack to small roof. then to top. Access to climbs higher up.

Up the finger crack into flared groove and off width to finish.

Located above Happy Fun Time. Access by climbing up Cracklett. Min pulled a rabbit out of the bag to grab the first ascent of this tricky test piece.

Up corner using some old time skills. To get down scramble down gully to right of final belay, then Rap to top of 4 seasons wall from tree.

This is where the approach track meets the cliff. A short wall with plenty of fun for the whole family.

Wendy asked for a first ascent. Citizens must abide. A fantastic outing toping out the Happy Fun Time wall with great gear, nice climbing and some amazing belay positions.

1. (14) 15m Start 3m right of Warmup Crack at obvious lichen crack. Move over loose block (beware) to pull over lip onto slab with hand crack. Belay from corner at rear wall with multiple options to set gear anchor.

2. (15) 15m Climb triple crack that is much easier than it looks scooting up body chimney on left with gear on right. Aim for large tree above on right slinging it to continue through solid blocks to belay from double limbed tree tree on incredible flat cave ledge!

3. (17) 18m Swing left from belay over bulge with pockets and crack in small cave heading for out of sight headwall. (When moving through small cave please avoid altering the will of the free spirited block!). Quest up cracked headwall through pinched body chimneys aiming for large belay tree. Interesting solution to move through last body chimney off of slopers(crux).

4. (15) 18m Ledgy climbing diagonally left of belay to corner crack leading to top of cliff. This pitch gets its grade from last move (well protected) to pull over top of corner to top out cliff. Belay from trees and cracks.

Back up boulder rappel back to pitch 2 tree anchor. Consider watching the sunset hitting the Castle in the distance from cave ledge before rapping to ground. Mostly in the shade.

Start left of the arete.

Climb up the initial corner crack and continue straight up the face,

Climbs the centre of the arete.

Poorly protected start leads to nice climbing above.

Start right of the arete. Hollow rock and poor protection down low leads to a nice slab above.

Hard start up orange streak past 3 RBs (stickclip recommended) then up easy face on gear.

Face climb up the left hand crack. Large cams (#4 and 5) will come in handy. A bit run out in a couple of places. Belay at obvious tree.

Start 3 meters right of Big Happy Fun Time. One jam then layaway and crimp to glory. More fantastic face climbing.

Boulder problem start that can be avoided with help from the tree. More fun face climbing.

Line of three fixed hangers 2m right of Pet Cow. Bouldery start, then follow the somewhat hollow flakes and then straight up the nice juggy headwall, passing some good nut placements.

The third expansion bolt didn't tighten and we ended up with a Bitter Aftertaste in our mouths - just like when the Glühwein smashed in the gutter.

A sweet route, like our Glühwein would have been, had it not ended up in the gutter back in Brisbane...

Line of four hangers 5m right of Bitter Aftertaste. Rap anchors in a block at the top.

The leftward-leaning crack at the right hand end of the wall. Funky start. Thin jam to gain hold high on right wall, then a chimney move. More great face climbing to top. Rap off tree to right.

Climbs the featured face 5m right of spiderland. Takes plenty of nuts and hexes. For full value, climb in a moon boot on your 31st birthday.

The following route is above Big Happy Fun Time.

Climbs the arete above Big Happy Fun Time. Escape to rappel tree stepping over little gully to the right.

The fractured length of cliff stretching between Four Seasons Point and Lost Cow.

Chossy corner up to dodgy tree belay. Apparently above the start of Four Seasons Point.

Jug ladder. Topout is in front of te overhang/cave to the left of The Forgotten Sole.

Just right of Four Seasons Point, on the ledge above The right of the two wide cracks. Follow the chimney up past the dodgy chockstone, then top out on the left to a tree belay. A cool alternative route can involve topping out through the hole next to the tree.

Start at The Forgotten Sole and move out onto the face and up past first ledge and jugs. Move left at the second ledge to finish up the arete.

Climbs the steep left leaning finger crack up to the massive shelf and over bulge.

The caveledge that'd be comfy to walk through if you were a hobbit. Shame we're not.

Pull up over the overhang that is Hobbit Cave, on the ledge just left of The Quila Climb.

Something to do with Kwan and a fun time. Follow the crack up to the tree belay. Climb starts between Fruity Lexia and Plato's Cave.

Link The Quila roof crack boulder problem into The Quila Climb. Unorthodox but cool!

The fun short roof handcrack below The Quila Climb. Makes an awesome linkup.

The ledge across the small gully below The Quila Climb that marks the end of Hobbit Ledge.

Named so after the philosopher Plato's Allegory of the Cave. Search it up. Plato's Cave is the name of the cave further along Plato's Ledge.

Very committing first move from the ledge out of Plato's Cave. Up the flat face then trend left following the line of least resistance to top.

Committing jumpstart to jug from the centre of the platform of Plato's Cave. A solid wire can be placed from the ground to protect the dyno. Beware the drop behind! Up face, then follow cracks on left, until you reach a blank face on you right. Cut right across that and up poxy, sketchy steep face left of arete. Take small wires for protection.

Beware the huge, precariously balancing deathblock on the arete if you go off route !!!

Climb up roof crack with slab on right (crux) pull some steep sporty moves to the left above a nest of RP's then solo up grey headwall to trad anchor. Second pitch traverse bush bash with a fun move at the end. Both pitches need a bolt to make sane. 1 star climbing -1 star for lack of gear.

The obvious chimney 8m right of Plato's Cave. Up this until it runs out, then follow crack to top, escaping right around ferns to tree belay.

Around the corner to the right from Tastes Like Pee. Start from the right crack up below averasge rock, then enter the chimney. Follow the perfect handcrack up the comfy chimney. Tree belay.

Fantastic climb around the corner to the right from The Ugly Duckling.

Climb up a beautiful overhanging semi-detached flake to a perfect splitter offwidth. Up this with much difficulty, swearing, and prayers to the top. Beware potential block before the offwidth proper. It doesn't move, but feels sketchy.

To access, scramble with care around the precarious corner to the belay ledge. Consider roping up for this, as there's a 30m drop below.

The next rout starts above Bananaflower.

Above Bananaflower. Start on offwidth layback, the traverse right and up following crack. Surprisingly fun. Starts 12m right of the topout above Bananaflower.

3m left of Little Dusty. Finishes on the same tree as Little Dusty.

Great beginner trad lead. Short and a little dusty. Climb up to tree belay.

Start up offwidth layback, and follow this to a chimney-ish feature. Start from Little Dusty's tree belay.

Up Possum Jackson Pollock's layback start, then traverse right where the other crack breaks out. Up the nice clean handcrack to finish.

Up the face and arete left of Hooked on a Ceiling

Starts where the broken BMO mug is. Follow crack left of RIP BMO. Proceed to the roof, and follow offwidth crack on left to tree belay. Slings will be handy.

Start on blank face right of Hooked on a Ceiling. Right of the broken BMO mug at the bottom. Traverse right along roof, then go straight up the slab. Climb to tree belay.

An ode to a local's encounter with a manky, lovable, indestructible stray cat called Chunky. Much better than it looks! The rooflet 10m left of 'Tradical' . Follow the corner crack, following it under the roof, and then jug to glory. Trad belay on ledge above. Scramble out left to 'Plato's Ledge', or right to 'Super Awesome Epic Ledge'.

Tradical's shittier brother. It is the crack on the left. Follow this until the cracks meet again. Can continue straight up, though it's nicer to finish off right with Tradical.

Shitical's radical brother. The classic of Lazy Ledges. It is the one on the right. Tree belay.

Ledge above Tradical / Shitical with large tree belay.

From top of the Tradical/Shitical belay, traverse right on wires, then up a tricky boulder problem to corner crack. Tree belay. Beware the high fall factor at the boulder problem! Good climb to access Epic Ledge.

Ledge above Feck Ledge. Hosts a great handful of tucked away steep crack lines.

The overhanging corner offwidth that just begs to be climbed so that it can spit you off right when you think it's over ... The rightmost crack in the left alcove of the ledge.

The hidden 7m roof crack. Starts 4m left of the widest part of the ledge at a short hand-sized corner crack. Up this short section onto ledge at 3m, then nice jambing up twin cracks to chimney. Up this then follow the left of the 2 roof cracks up and out through 7m of roof. Think outside the box.

Climb up crack on the right, through the tree. Crux is likely to be the dodgy flake. Proceed to chimney to dodgy tree belay.

A good climb for the beginner trad leader. Climb next to a nice smelling tree to tree belay.

4m right of Nice Smelly Tree Climb. Follow crack as it leads slightly left then up. Beware of bush with sticks.