Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Donnelly's Castle The Brain Area | |||||
V6/7 | ★ Never Really Cool Down
Bouldery sit start proj on good sized holds. Funky. Named after watching a hard warm up flash by a ol timer- “was that your warm up?” The ol timer replied, "I never really cool down" | ||||
V4 | ★ Crabbie Pants
Straight up front face using sidepulls, slopers and crimps. Top out up high slab, arete. | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Process
Stand start hands on positive edges then straight up with various good edges. FA: Jesse P | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Tank Of Gas and A Radio Song
Stand or jump start on the left side of the bloc, with choice of jugs LH and RH edge. Punch straight up to a tall top. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★★ 8 Months Of Winter
Who doesn’t like dynamic climbing on crimps. Stand start in the vertical crack, with small crimps for hands. Nice rock and sustained moves. | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★★ 11 Months of Summer
Hope you have been training your crimp strength on 8mm’s. Squat start on the left side of the bloc, matched on low recognizable crimp rail, now traverse leftwards into “8 months of Winter”. Finish as this. Set: Jimmy Blackhall, 2023 | 4m | |||
V1 | Lesser of All Evils
Mantle up into scoop on the lowest and easiest looking part of this boulder. | ||||
These Walls Don’t Lie
Tall, bold, high ball slab. Start in a stand to the right of the Graffiti piece, and dance your way up to a delirious top. Bring many pads, these walls don’t lie. | 7m | ||||
V5 | ★★★ I Only Eat Plenkton
Stand start on left side of face, up to obvious pocket then head rightwards and up. Left boulder is out. Balancy, reachy and brilliant. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Backwoods
The Boulder behind “Kamikazi”. Up thin and solid slab face. | ||||
V2 | Take A Walk
Right of Backwoods. Start on high Rh jug and Lh rail. Climb up and left onto the blunt arete, to a airy top. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Apr 2022 | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★ Kamakazi
Stand start to the right of “The Brain”, with the generous undercling flake above your head. Make a set of burly moves up and into the runnel, to a kamikaze top out. Excellent | 5m | |||
V10 | ★★★ The Brain
Start on poor rail then big move up to slot, then to victory jug. FA: Oliver Miller, 2011 | ||||
V1 | ★ Palm Trees Grow and Rents Are Low
Up featured arete, found on the boulder directly behind “The Brain” stand starting on other small boulder. Watch the fall into the chasm | 6m | |||
Squeeze project
The arete left of Nexus 6. Starts with low left crimp and RH sloper, straight up and left to victory jugs on top. | |||||
V2 | ★★ Nexus 6
Up slab left of pink streak. Trust your feet ... FA: Tim Nicholson, 2012 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Jabba the Hut
Up blunt arete slab. When the blankness hits/ use your feet! | 7m | |||
V0 | ★★ Blades of Glory
Up on good edges and flakes. Great rock. FA: Tim Nicholson, 2012 | ||||
V0 | ★ Introspection
Climb the easy arete behind “Palm Sunday”, to the right of “Blades of glory”. Stand start in the petite chasm with big feet and hands in cracks. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Palm Angels
Backside of Palm Sunday bloc. Stand start with arete of both blocs. Move right once you hit the horn topping out on the right side. FA: Jimmy Blackhall | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Palm Beach
Stand start with high RH flake. Amazing solid ripples lead up the left side of the face. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Palm Oil
Stand start in the centre of the slab with contrasting sidepulls. Straight up over the bulge on small holds and powerful foot work. Testpiece for budding slab masters by Shanon the slab Jedi master. FA: Shannon, 2001 | 6m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Palm Sunday
High and delicate up the left side of the tall arete. Stand start with arete RH and LH sidepull. Great compression and lay-back surfing to a high and committing crux. | 7m | |||
V2 | Rum Width
The Offwidth to the right of “Palm Sunday”. Feels like drinking a 6pack of rums and sprinting down the street.. FA: Angus Davidson | 6m | |||
Donnelly's Castle The Lookout | |||||
V2 | ★★ Nutbush City Limits
Sit start this aesthetic, crimpy problem on the lowest rail. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Fly Docker
Stand start, RH crimp nothing left hand, straight up to top out. FA: Jesse P | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Dry Docker
Stand start with low crimps, moving across crimpy, technical climbing, to a long, cruxy reach. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Dizzie
Stack 2 mats, stand start with high above head RH crimp and waist height LH crimp with ok feet. Some crimpy moves with a blank mantle await you. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2023 | 4m | |||
V2 | Fries & Mayo
Stand start with high obvious crimps and elevate upwards. FA: La Noodle, Jan 2023 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Mantle Magic
Reach/jump to nice ledge then up. | 3m | |||
V0+ | ★ BBQ’s and Blundstone’s
Squat start matched on lowest jug, climbing the arching arete left, along to the highest point of the bloc. Trust those smears! Also used as the down climb from “Mantle Magic” - same Bloc. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Dec 2021 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Stretch Armstrong
Start on full stretch/jump to the double hand sloper bulge on the face left of the Right arete. Burly move left into the weakness and figure your way up from there. Benefits those with a longer reach but not to be missed by the shorter climber! FA: Nick Foulds, 2 Oct 2021 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Static House
One meter or two left of "Car Camping". Fun beginner Crimpy V0. Top out and climb down "Car Camping". FA: ClimbingBB | ||||
V0 | ★ Car Camping
Easy up featured wall left of fig tree. Also used to get down of this giant boulder. | ||||
V3 | ★★ Tush Push
Stand start just right of tree with low LH and RH in runnel. Punchy, reachy and classic. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Double D
Crimpy and reachy wall a few metres right of fig tree. | ||||
V5 | ★★★ No More Grade Inflation
Up crimpy face. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Change The Date
Up the left side of the arete. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Connect To Country
Up the high slab on positive edges. Arete is in. | 4m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Post it
Strong stand start- up the twin seams, trending left to the vertical slot. Powerful pulls, to an airy mantle out. | 5m | |||
#11 Project
Very possible project. Start 1m right of post it. Up trending rightwards to high crux. | |||||
V5 | Rotten Apple
Right of Juicy Apples start. Lh half pad crimp, Rh high on the lowest rail. Straight up on slopes and crimps. | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★ Juicy Apple
On the same side facing “Post it” (back of the same Boulder as H.A). Sit start the blunt arete trending leftwards. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Happy Apple
Sit-start matched to the right on distinct rail, then head up and left to top out. A moderate test piece, and one of the best of the grade in the state. FA: 1999 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ Hippy Apple
Left variation of 'Happy Apple'. Sit start then straight up | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Moon Patrol
Better than it looks. Great funky moves up the left side of arete. May have crumbly rock around arete but comes good with brushing. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Lookout's lookout
An intricate slab problem starting on a good left foot, finger pad mono for the left and a slap with some dimples in it for you right. Delicate moves right and then ascend trending left to stay on the face as long as you can. Bailing early is tempting but detracts from the length of slab available to you! FA: Tatiana Proboste & Nick Foulds, 2 Oct 2021 | 4m | |||
V0 | Mimi Arete
Stand start with choices of either crimps of side pulls on the short arete, opposite the Palm Cove chasm- next to Face Palm. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Desert Island Hammock
walk roughly half the way into the crack off the end of the lookout and nestle yourself into your best Egyptian and get chimneying! Good holds abound at the lips on both sides of the top take your time and find them. Care to be taken at the top of this chimney, a fall from the top would not end well. FA: Nick Foulds, 2 Oct 2021 | ||||
V4 | ★★ The Cowboy Cha Cha
Great thin slab, first problem of the slab wall down the chasm. Get those feet working. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Palm Cove
Excellent low angled thin slab through shallow scoop- starts 3m’s right of “The Cowboy Cha Cha”. More and more footers appear on close inspection | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Free The Flag
Nice slab on solid edges. | ||||
V2 | ★ Ferntastico
Low angled slab on solid rock on the right side of the corridor - just left of the stars up to the look out. | ||||
V2 | Shantifax
Jump start to crimps, and then up the jugs. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Elemental
Stand start in seam, then trend up and leftwards. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Om
Classic line up beautiful boulder. Start as for 'Elemental' and head up and rightwards. | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★★ The Roman Nose
Bouldery start in corner using both boulders to gain comfortable stance on arete, then head up rightside of arete with excellent handholds. A crag classic and a great initiation to highballs. | 6m | |||
V7 | You Snooze You Lose
Jump to good edge, then powerful moves put you standing on the first hold, From here commit to high edge and climb up slab. Very much a highball. | ||||
V1 | ★★ High Times at Donnelly's High
Jump to jug or scramble up tree to get up onto the wall. Head up the extremely high and easy slab on very solid rock. Maybe dirty when out of season. More like soloing a grade 12 climb. | 7m | |||
V2 | Trad Nuts
start on arete, mantle on to the slab, then gradually make your way right to the jugs near the top. FA: 17 Oct 2022 | 8m | |||
Donnelly's Castle Dirty Action Area | |||||
V5 | ★★ Cuddle Pie
10m directly behind you if you're looking at Naughts & Crosses. Sit start right side of the boulder on the lowest sidepull, up the short arete. Very cool. FA: Tim Nicholson, 2012 | ||||
V1 | ★ Snuggle Pot
Up slab in middle of boulder. Quite nice and short. Arrrd with a tricky sit slap move. | ||||
V4 | ★ Sandcastle
Sit start and head out and up on pinches and slopers. Good climbing on average rock. Stick to the established holds to avoid rock breakage. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Runnel
Up the nice looking runnel. Fun side pull, good feet, then reach up. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★★ Naughts and Crosses
Crag classic of the easier problems. Stand start on crimps, then head up and left to arete to topout. | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Anticrimp
Start just right of Naughts and crosses. Stick to the scoop and right side of arete. Excellent technical and powerful moves. FA: Tim Nicholson, 2012 | ||||
V0+ | ★ Best Day Ever
Start 2m left of “Another Best Day Ever”. Watch the tree on the top out….also use the tree to get down | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Another Best Day Ever
Nice rail sidepull start to the slab. Be careful using the tree to get down. | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Mr Snappy
Gym problem with the added bonus of possible exploding holds. Start on the lowest sloper jugs, right next to the dead tree, and traverse left up the lip to mantle at the high point. Located on the back side of the Naughts & Crosses boulders. FA: Tim Nicholson, 25 Apr 2022 | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ The Orchard
Sit start with fingery holds and power up to a jug, before a quest from left to right on an array of classy holds. Top out the same as “Dirty Action” on the tallest part of the Boulder. This is a classic for the grade, on the Granite Belt. | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★★ The Big Zee
Sit start on poor left rail, up on crimps, sidepulls and jugs to the left. One of the best hard lines on the Granite Belt. | 4m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Dirty Action
Start as for 'The Big Zee', then head right and up on crimps and slopers. It's excellent. Fingery and powerful. Beta video https://vimeo.com/42103468 FA: Oliver Miller, 2012 | ||||
★★ #52 Project
Ultra hard crimp project starting at right end, finishing up 'Dirty Action'. | |||||
V4 | ★★ $53
Stand just right of the arete matched with crimpy jug and up on good holds. Great rock quality- most definitely a high ball. | 7m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Strong Geoff
Hard bouldery sit start on pinches, traversing right and up into '$53'. FA: Strong Geoff, 2009 | 6m | |||
V8 X | ★★ MA Forever
Just like the visionary alpinist himself, Wild, bold and technical, on some of Donnellys best rock. Great featured corner and arete to navigate across and up. | 6m | |||
V5 | ★★ Bloody Tourists
The “tips crack” around the corner to the right of “Dirty Action”. Stand start with face height locks in the crack and finesse your way upwards and left to a high and athletic mantle out. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Jan 2023 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ On the Nose
Squat start low with sloper jug RH and LH thin crimp. Blast up on good holds. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Nevermind
Stand stand in little chasm with opposite side pulls at face height. Move straight up well-featured wall on crimps, heading towards the vertical runnel. | ||||
V2 | ★★ Never Lose Your Froth
Same start as “Nevermind”, but move left heading towards the sloper jugs on the left and up. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, 2022 | ||||
V1 | ★★ Spiral of Silence
Stand start with nice crimp LH and either pop RH to high sidepull jug or be tall, easy climbing up the middle of this wall, traversing the flake feature left and up. | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Stone In My Boot
Left of “Spiral of Silence”. Stand start matched on sloper jug. Figure out a way to power straight up. FA: Jimmy Blackhall, Feb 2022 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Quaint
Opposite 'Spiral of Silence'. Stand start with easy flake feature - which takes you up the wall to a vegetated top out. | 5m | |||
V2 | ★★ Electric Slide
Straight up the middle of this nice wall. Quite good. | ||||
V1 | ★ Electric Avenue
Stick to the left side of the boulder towards the arete. | ||||
V1 | ★ 420
Up the featured wall on jugs and edges. | ||||
V1 | ★ Mental
Climb the left arete on good holds, Only the mental game can stop you here. FA: Nick Foulds, 3 Oct 2021 | 4m | |||
V4 | Day for It
The left hand exit to “Physical”, same start. It’s a day for it!! FA: Jimmy Blackhall | ||||
V5 | ★★ Physical
Only the Physical can stop you here, Powerful start on crimps a few hand switches and swaps as you move up the dual breaks. Stay left for the harder V6 variety (Skill, as yet unsent), or cut and lunge for the right hand jug at V5, top out easily. FA: Nick Foulds & Philip Xunlix Ly, 3 Oct 2021 | 4m | |||
V7 | Mystery
Who knows anything about this bloc? The fourth element to the crystal maze problems. Will the Mystery stop you here? As yet unsent (as far as we or anyone else knows....) Set: Nick Foulds & Philip Xunlix Ly, 3 Oct 2021 | 5m | |||
V0+ | ★★ Tall Poppy Syndrome
Stand start in the open book corner, with the vertical crack, using crimps. Move up and right following the crack to a semi-tall top out. FA: Jimmy Blackhall | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Phantom
Sit/squat start the steep compression arete. LH low on obvious pinch. RH low on the arete. FA: Oliver Rickford, 14 May 2023 | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Helmet
To find this boulder walk to the Orchid boulder and head past it downhill for another ~20m. It sits within a corridor at the back of the area. Stand start with opposing edges in seams, straight up through edges and a mono. Backside wall is out. | ||||
V4 | ★★ Le Slap
Compress the blunt arete, slap to victory. Right of Helmet. FA: Oliver Rickford, May 2023 | ||||
V9 | ★★★ Miraculous Crack Project
This line sits ~10m right of Helmet. Sit start in scoop with hold in rooflet and first slot in seam, straight up. The holds are all there but the feet are marginal to say the least. Top still needs an aggressive wire brushing. | ||||
Donnelly's Castle The Caves Sector | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Bull Riding
Power up solid edges to easy topout. Currently unclimbable due to prominent tree. | ||||
★★ Project
Sit start project with a big reach. Will be classic. | |||||
V8 | ★ The Seamless Unspeakably Something
Hard moves through the seam grants you with a huge jug. Tough on the feet and fingers. Just plain tough. | ||||
#68 Project
Brilliant project up a nice line. Follow the crimpy crack from left to right. | |||||
V12 | ★★★ Yowie roof
Mega roof fridge, start on the arete and crimp following the arete until holds start apearing up the face. FA: Sam Bowman, 2024 |