Routes in Queensland for selected grade

Start 20m right of Adventure Gardeners

Scramble up to right hand side of vegetated ledge, then scramble left to slab with lots of peeled flakes.

Named in honor of Mr Ousbys massive bruised buttocks obtained from a 8 meter fall on the first attempt at the route. Lovely purple blue and yellow. A fantastic effort by Hamish in establishing this route ground up on sight, placing bolts whilst hanging on for life. Destined to be a mega classic test route. Can be a bit run out in places.

1.55m Start is a very tenuous slab so it may be best to stick clip the first bolt.

Smear and edge up slab always trending slightly left. Passing 5 bolts to DB belay.

2 40m

Continue up and left of vegetation to steepening buttress above, move diagonally left past bolt then up crack and corner till able to step left to DB belay

3 55m

Climb right over crack to gain slab on steep buttress. Place a cam blindly in crack on left. Get your belayer to confirm that it is placed well.(this will let you know if you are good friends.) Up wards passing 4 bolts and gear till able to pull into cave at end of pitch. Room for 2 to bivy if your belayer proved there friendship earlier!

4 10m

Its all over. (Well sort of )

Out of cave hand traverse left for a few moves. Then up easily on loose shattered blocks.

Bush bash up hill till tourist track is met at right side of organ pipes then down the horror of the tourist track fielding questions all the way back to car

Follow track to Turtle rock, as you walk past first face you come to notice large obvious crack, unbolted, first accents? could use trad or set up toprope. Difficult finger crack start that gets easier as you go up before easy top out.

On the L of the seaward side of the boulder and a couple of metres L of Twin Paranoia. About 2 bolts required up the short scooped face and overhanging blunt arête.

Open project. Stemming up to crackline.

ALL ROUTES LISTED L TO R.

Starts 6m L of OOA. Up through small roof and up superb stone on the headwall passing a fixed thread to lower off.

Start is found by walking 50 m past mosquito wall. Track heads away from apron and when it ascends back up to rock apron walk left up tongue of vegetation to gain rock.

Quite the adventure was had on the first ascent. Ground up on sight, with a 10 meter slide on the descent by Tony Barten which was fielded by Hamish Ousby who then joined in untill the slide was arrested. (Note, descent is slippery in the rain.)

1 80m. 4 runners

Startup slab towards bushes. Break out left to avoid the bushy gully. Up steepening slab. Boldly looking for runners, at about 30 meters a runner appears. Continue straight up on crossly flakes and nonexistent foot smears for a bit. When all looks, bad remember the rule, climbers do not cry. Continue towards vegetated ledge, moving left at last instance, crossing water polished holds to gain vegetated ledge. Runners are noticeably lacking. Belay on nonexistent gear above vegetation.

2 30m

Move belay up to next island of vegetation. Easy climbing, no runners, no bolts, no belay, no fun.

3 55m.

Up the water polished slab moving left to bottom of crack. Gently up start of crack passing block balancing in bush. Try not to let it drop on your belayer on the imaginary belay below. The crack offers up a good runner above the block just as the the rock gets friable. A few jams, some lay backing, some edging gets you well above your runner and into the crux. Remember the rule, climbers do not cry! Struggle up the off widthy, chimney, thrutchy crack thing, for a bit until a handy chock stone presents itself which you can sling. Unfortunately, the top of said chock stone is just sitting there waiting to be dropped on the belayer on the imaginary belay. Remember Climbers DON’T CRY. Once past this continue up to second tree where a bomb proof runner was excavated from the dirt filled crack. You will see why you do not belay at first tree.

4 45m.

Up crack on the left with a good runner. Think its over. Ha! Move up slabs till able to place a runner. Now continue up the slab. It gets a bit thin, friable and that runner you thought was so good before now gets hard to see as it fades into the distance. Remember that rule from the previous pitches? Continue onwards. Soon the angle eases, the holds get better the climb ends. The runners still do not appear. To get off walk bush bash up ridge above till tourist track is gained.

It is actually quite good.

Contrived, straight up the grey wall on the right side of Cardiac Arete to a large break, up right onto ledge. From here to top.

Good for a warm up.

Start: At the dot below the crack, around the arête from IHAIP.

Up easy pillar and into tricky corner with thoughtful protection. Left through roof & up R of the belay tree (CT & IHAIP), then into nice finger crack with good gear. Chains on tree. Needs a cool head down low.

The devil will meet you here! Climb the offwidth to the left of AOD to cave. Go right and up flake then continue straight up the wide crack to trad belay in cave.

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Follow the thin crack three metres left of The Tempest past two bolts to a tree belay (well back).

At the back of the Lower Amphitheatre (there are over 10 routes). The first route to go through to the Upper Amphitheatre.

Start at the arête right of Snake Skin Crack. Up passing four bolts. Small cam after second bolt. number three friend in a pocket to right of small roof just below top. Move left to finish

It starts about 30 meters right of Legends out of Time at a long leftwards leading ramp. Scoot up the ramp past a bolt to a thread runner. From here traverse right past some big blocks and two trees to a steep corner and a second bolt. Finish up the technical corner to a dodgy tree belay that is now backed up by a bolt. Rap off. The bolts were placed by Zac on lead after Hamish had already climbed past without bolts.

Superb climbing up the prominent crack right of GGG. Start up GGG and then at 5m head up right into a corner to a roof. Traverse out right to a juggy crack splitting the bulge. Up this to a little niche and then up and left to finish.

10m L of Raptor. Follow the major weakness up the middle of the steep black slab, then move through a small roof to a natural belay. Escape via IT.

Brilliant. A desperate little move out of the cave sees you to a stance. Blast up this to a difficult thin section at half height. Grunt up the top to the ledge. Constantly interesting with bombproof gear all combine to make this route deservedly popular!

Climbs the black groove about 10m left of A Fine Romance. Up the deep line, past some vegetation, to a desperate black v-groove finish. Finish on the ledge immediately above with the big tree.

Climb through overhanging blocks, then trend right following diagonal flake, before tricky mantle move to gain arete ledge. Finish up arete. No gear in the second half of the route.

Alteratively, stem over to chimney, then to top. Watch your rope on the arete.

Starts in corner move up then traverse left before roof to carrot on the arete then up past two more carrots then left to the fixed hanger bolt. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

A stunning climb with lots of pro. Start at the obvious crack (left or right) and follow to easier ground. Easy slab finish. Two tree belay. Possible to set up a belay at ledge just before slab.

Short and punchy pressure crack system. Starts higher up and across the gully from Freeloader. Takes entirely small wires and cams with lots of thin face climbing. Add it to the list for your trad day at Sanctuary.

Really very good and deserves to be more popular. Originally done as a solo. The small dark wall to the left of COC offers enjoyable and classy face climbing. Yet another top rope candidate as the climbing should really not be missed. Take off a grade if you're tall!

Pull onto the high foothold about eight metres left of Quick Quiz, and continue up to join Wading Ape at the first bolt. Scott Camps (Solo) April 1986

A great line that uses a corridor of good rock to weave its way through a wall of choss. Interesting and varied climbing on all pitches. Enjoy the quest.

Pitch 1 - 16 - 25m - Start up grey slabs. Pull through a steeper few metres and continue up slabs until orange rock and undercut crack is found. Follow this right to belay under roof.

Pitch 2 - 20 - 20m - An absolutely brilliant piece of trad climbing! Step up off belay and traverse under blank roof using finger crack and bomber pro. Pull out of the roof and up into/onto the slabby corner with more awesome pro and flowing moves. Belay on the left-hand side of massive cave/roof.

Pitch 3 - 18 - 15m - Step straight up off belay, protect your belay, before a powerful move or two through the overhang and out to the right. Up easily to belay at a tree.

Pitch 4 - 18 - 20m - Straight up from tree into finger crack that turns into offwidth in the corner. Surmount this with some difficulty. Ramble up to the final few steep moves. Top out and belay off tree 3m back from edge. Extend tree anchor back to the edge to keep rubble from falling on your 2nd.

Walk 10m lookers left to steep vegetated gully. Tatt is/was placed here. 60m rope on stretch would get you to the ledge where you will find another anchor hidden in an alcove. Rap off the pinch here. 20m rap to the ground. Lots of loose rock in the descent gully. Rap with care.

Start at "Wimps in the Gym" move left at roof then straight away climb diagonally up and right past carrot to finish. (Can be top roped off double bolts above climb)

Open project. Up the obvious crackline in the boulder.

Very easy start for first 5m (14) and last 6m is overhung with big pockets and a crack. It can be done directly (tape your hands) (23) or layback from crack (19).

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and rap rings.

Start up Eye Of The Tiger until about 3.5m below the obvious chockstone and at an undercling flake/pockets in the L wall. Make committing moves L and follow the flake system (small wires) to join the final moves of Two Hands Are Better Than One at the last BR on that route.

Marked by the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

Initialed: "V"

Up the Left facing corner. Hard technical laybacking.

History: first spotted & named by Ted Cais in '72.

Start right of big cave.

1. M20 Up and left pulling on bolts as much as possible to semi hanging double bolt belay on arete.

2. Follow flake on left moving left at top of flake onto face. Left and up face passing two bolts until able to move back right to arete easily. double bolt belay.

3. Up corner then face to a continuation corner. Average gear. Some good gear in corner to lichen covered ladges then final corner to top. Belay off tree back from edge 3 meters.

Up technical face (slightly slabby) passing 3 bolts (Coeur Pulse) to (2 x Coeur Pulse).

Requires 5 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm

1. Cool moves pulling onto the arete and up tiered face followed by some thin moves on each bulge.

2. Unprotected scramble up to corner, then plenty of good placements to single bolt anchor and natural pro.

Just another brilliant Cania face climb. Starts left of the belay below a bolt. Very steep and sustained. The hardest moves are low down. Contains 4 bolts but take a trad rack and a good hand full of slings.

A slabby adventure. Start as for Holiday to the pedestal. Step across the void to the R (FH) and crank up to the slab (crux). Now delicately up the slab passing two more FH's.

Don't fall on this extremely under protected route... gravity will definitely win! Up Harlot for a move or two, then up the arete. Really classy moves, and quite enjoyable climbing. It's a pity the piton used on the first ascent didn't stay in! Some pro can be found in the crack around on the L face, but it won't help much if you fall near the top.

At the top of the gully: A little wall with a good fist corner in the middle.

1. 20m Up blocks for 20m to ledge & belay.

2. 20m Up steep RH crack from the ledge.

Can be done in one pitch.

More steep sustained climbing on excellent rock. Contains 4 bolts but take a trad rack (wires and cams up to BD #2). Two bolt belay on a ledge 7 metres from the top.

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

As for S but keep traversing R to the thin crack and up it.

Brilliant face climbing up the thin face on the far L of the ledge. Despite appearances, protection is excellent throughout the whole climb (provided you have RPs), and it is a must do at the grade.

First 20m or pitch; as for Minute Man, then the second half up the perfect fist crack corner to top.

A three star route!

Crap name - good climb. The scene of Lee Skidmore's brush with death (4m grounder onto back on grisly boulders). Don't let that deter you though, there is bomber pro. Starts right around the corner from the above two routes, about 15m from S. Up the overhanging layback crack then L to arête (BR). Up L side of arête past another BR and some natural pro in pockets to ledge. Finish up the short face behind (BR). Mind rope drag, or use two.

Located above the long ledge above Monkey on a String VS. 5m R of "Mary-Kate". Up the open corner to reach a rest. The crack then widens to allow hands. Belay at a ledge. Escape as for "Mary-Kate".

A better variant finish for OG. At the start of the last groove on OG, step R and climbing the thin crack up the face. Be careful as the first few moves are completely unprotected and you could be reduced to a whimpering mess with the technical and exposed moves above.

Start: At the flakes 6-8m R of Magician behind small tree.

1. Grovel up the flaring vegetated off-width (nasty start), and into chimney, then more grovelling up this. Step back L into the crack proper and follow to small niche above. Climb thru this & follow steep cracks to below loose flakes, up these & belay on loose pillar.

2. Climb corner & down L to TB and rap.

Line going through steep orange overhang crack next to the offwidth. Climb on to ledge then blast into finger crack to overhanging boldge and finish up on finger crack to tree belay. Rap dowm Five Bells tree.

Starts in the same ravine as 'Claustrophilia', at it's opening - hidden above the vegetated corner 15-20m R of 'Trench Tactics'. To find the ravine either climb up the easy slab from below (dodgy trad), or walk to its top from above 'The Cave (closed)' and rap down.

Stickclip 1st FH then use tree to gain start jugs. Up past 2nd FH, #1 or 1.5 SLCD placement and 2 more FHs to rap station.

A fantastic route on mostly excellent rock. Take trad gear. Avoid it in Spring if peregrine falcons are nesting on it. Pitch 1 (20). Bolt off ground to start. Follow line up wall past 4 more bolts. Trend diagonally left around a bulge and head up to belay below the big roof slot. Pitch 2 (20). Up through the slot then make an awkward move to gain the wall above. Place gear whenever you can because it might just be your last piece. The final tenuous moves onto the slab are a little run out.

3 very different hard sections. Start at the body crack about 8m R of OG past tree to ledge. Difficult moves up thin hands/fingers crack leads to a rest at a tree. Easier hand crack to desperate exit and an anchor here would really make this a worthwhile route. In the meanwhile, suffer up the last grotty 3m then traverse to Satyricon's anchor.

"To the left of Tough Mamma is Dragon Woman 20, by Kevin Pearl & Fred From, which goes through a small roof." (Thrutch mag #72 Sept/Oct 1977)

The thin crack immediately Left of Little Queen. Up this, through the small rooflet.

The beautiful thin hand and finger crack about 2 m left of the corner. It finishes at a belay station below the imposing orange headwall.

Crack 8 meters right of PL. Thin crack with slaby mid section. Natural gear belay and rap back down from Five Bells tree.

One move to a BR, then up and swing L around arête to pockets (FH). Crux moves above this (?) up the blank arête lead to a break and another BR. To finish, "let's bail" off to big tree on R to avoid the mank.

Start: The arête 5m L of corner.

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

Straight up the perfect vertical finger crack to large ledge then move left and up arette to top. (Bridge from crack to the arette without climbing onto the large ledge for a slightly harder climb)

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Climb up to 2nd BR as per the original route, then, instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top. Big reach and balance move.

Just left of 'Grum on the Bound'. Undercut start and pumpy.

This long-neglected corner offers brilliant bridging and jamming up a long sustained line! Bridge up the initial corners to the cave at 2/3rd height. A hard move around this to the top, and many celebration beers at the "Doogs". Rap chains on the pillar.

An old school classic, definitely not recommended for sport climbers. You will need to watch out for the odd loose flake and hollow block, not to mention the big sandy cave. This is the deep line that goes straight up the middle of the high, pale orange wall about 100m right of Firefly. Climb the steep groove past a short desperate layback section until you find yourself in the sandy cave. Bridge around the huge capstone, which has an ancient rap sling wrapped around it, and mantle onto a welcome ledge. The climbing steps up a gear here. Crank upwards on widely spaced holds and good gear to a good stance. Take care on the last moves into the belay cave as they are thin and quite run out. Rap off bolts. A second pitch awaits.

Start up the offwidth to the right of Hunter Gatherer. Bring big cams up to arm you for the mini-wrestling match that you're about to endure. Strenuous smooth off-widthing climbing the outside of Narrow is the Way.

Well protected climb with steep hand jamming finish up splitter crack! U bolt anchor.

Go up "What She Said" till break then step left to finish up the last 3 meters of "What He Said". (A easier variant to the two lines.) Natural gear belay and wrap down from five bells tree.

Marked BAM. Four BRs and optional nuts to chains (straight up). A LHV was also climbed a month later.

Start: 3m L of arête

Starts at the Brett Pybus memorial plaque, 5m down L from L. Brett died before he could complete this route, they played this song at his funeral. Up the corner taking care with the gear. Clip the bolt by climbing up then leaning across then come back down to the ledge. Step R onto the face and up the fragile feeling flakes past another FH.

Even whispering the name of this route has struck panic and fear into the heart of many an aspiring leader. Up the ever widening off-width to the L of SA. Specially cut lengths of pipe were originally used to protect this visionary route. Big Bros and large cams (and plenty of them) should keep the Grim Reaper at bay nowadays! Jeans and a footy jersey would be a handy addition to the rack of any would be ascentionist.

I rapped the line and slipped in a couple of bolts."I wanted to climb that"' said youth. "Too late" said I. Youth puts on puppy dog eyes. OK you get first attempt,t if you cant do it first shot I take second shot and if I get up it, I am going to name it after you.

Middle of three routes on wall. Clip bolt from boulder. start low. Up past bolt wire cam to next bolt. crux. then up wall trending left to top.

Start just below tree 1 meter right of "What He Said". Follow thin crack till break and up over thin finger bulge, bring small nuts and big cahoonas. Natural gear belay and rap down from Five Bells tree.

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.

Starts at the crack in the shallow chimney, 2m R of the NW arête (L of TENE) - the next one past the offwidth. Take the crack to the FH then Traverse R to TENEs belay.

A very popular route, and deservedly so. Up the classic line on superb finger locks and jams to an easy but grotty chimney finish. To rap, either use chains on SA (left) or YGH (right). Easiest way is the tree directly above the route that will get you back to Warlock ledge with a 70m rope.

4m L of C DS. This finely sculpted L-leaning thin crack may alienate those without aliens - small SLCD's are a must. Overcome the crack to gain slab where two FH's point the way to the rap station. Sustained climbing at the grade.

Start 1m R of 'Sticky Fingers'. Up slab to shaft. Up this with awkward placements to ledge. Clip FH and blast through bulge. Continue up shaft on RP's, small wires and a FH to ledge. Finish directly up 'Hex Heaven's flared corner.