Routes in Sewer Wall

A few good moves down low deteriorate to the usual dirt and choss. Up the groove right of Sewer Side past 3 bolts (crux at second) then up (wires and friends) and left to join Sewer Side at the top.

Steeper than the average slab, bigger than most climbs twice its length, with a fun roof. Start in the right hand of two slabby corners right of the river. Delicately up onto the arete past bolts to the roof. Crank across right to clip the peg (a 3/4 Friend and #4 rock back it up) then heelhook out left and slap blind (die laughing) for the jug above the lip. Follow the bolts to the birdshit and up the final steep headwall past another bolt to the double bolt belay and rap station. A two rope rap avoids the gruesome scramble up loose dirt to the top.

Another Bosch marvel. Takes the left-hand slabby corner left of Sewer Side. Up the slabby corner and arete past four bolts to the overhang. Reach up and clip a bolt, then a technical pull-through to a short crack (2 1/2 Friend and #3 rock). Up the wall above, right at first then back left, past two more bolts to the alcove in the BIG roof. Small wires protect the final clip, then bridge up and launch out left over the roof to a ledge and rap station. Two ropes to the ground.

Horrendously technical pocket climbing with more bolts than decent holds. Start on the brink, where the surf meets the slabs. Clip the bolt to avoid a watery death. Pull leftwards out over the waves to a sloping foothold, then cruise up past two more bolts. A small detour left, then relentless pocket pulling to the double bolt belay and rap chain.

More of the same steep pockets. Start as for Lure of the Sewer. Climb past two bolts, then lean left and clip a bolt below the little overlap. Move left keeping your feet below the overlap (crux) to a good pocket, then a jug and a bolt, of cours. Up directly past two more rawldrive surprises then back right to the rap stance on Lure of the Sewer.

A big route threading the major roofs. Quite sustained with brilliant moves through the top overhang. Double ropes, 11 draws and a #2 Friend are the essential items. Start as for Lure of the Sewer and Rising Damp. Left 5m as for Rising Damp, then up into the little V-groove. Follow this up and take the diagonal line to the roof (5 bolts to here). A #2 Friend protects the clip above, then seize the suspect mega-block and pull awkwardly through to good jugs and a bolt on the wall above (good rest on the guano ledge out left). Cross the wall rightwards (crux) to the diagonal crack and another bolt, find the high jug and gut loose left through the final roof onto a sloping ledge. Up and easily right past a final bolt to the rap station at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

Fine pocket climbing down low and awkward groping past loose blocks in the first overhang. Takes a rightwards line crossing Gutter Crimes at the first roof; double ropes as usual.

1. 15m As for Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Move right from the belay and climb the wall on deep pockets past 3 bolts, sharing the odd move with Sewer Rat. This will land you under the first roof on Gutter Crimes. Clip the bolt in the groove above and traverse right past another bolt and the suspect blocks, then long reaches right (crux) to big jugs, pockets and a bolt. Continue up past another bolt then some leftwards moves through the final roof to the last bolt on Gutter Crimes. Move right to the rap stance at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

A devious climb which weaves around some big overhangs. Double ropes and some long slings will save major rope drag.

1. 15m Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 30m Up to the first bolt on Mission Brown, then right and up the corner past 3 more bolts to the hanging groove on Gutter Crimes. Up this (#2 Friend below the roof and a long sling to the bolt) and left onto the guano ledge [there's a two finger pocket in the roof left of Gutter Crimes groove for anyone who wants to take the route straight through...]. Clip another bolt (long sling) then out to the arete. Up past a high bolt (crux) to a thin crack (#1 rock) then up and right to the belay on Mission Brown.

3. 10m Stroll right to the rap stance above Doppelwandiger.

Overhangs like the outside of a toilet bowl but twice as slick. A Canberra sea-cliff classic taking the bulging groove in the middle of the wall. Start as for Lure of the Sewer and Rising Damp.

1. 15m Rising Damp to the two bolt stance.

2. 25m Fun moves through the roof past a couple of bolts, then into the groove above. Follow it past 3 more bolts to where it dies, then an action packed sequence past another bolt takes you up the right wall to the big roof (2 1/2 Friend). Traverse right to a two bolt stance.

3. 10m Right to the rap stance at the top of Doppelwandiger. Two ropes to the ground.

A three pitch excursion out over the tide and the turds, which also provides access to routes on the left-hand side of the cliff. Piranha carp await the hapless leader or second taking a tumble on this one.

1. 15m Traverse left from the first bolt on Lure of the Sewer. Two more bolts then a #3 rock, then left and up to the two bolt stance.

2. 15m Downclimb and keep traversing just above the water to a bolt. Left up the slab (small wires) and around the arete to another bolt. Cross the alcove (#1 1/2 Friend) then up left to a high stance (2 bolts).

3. 25m Up to a bolt then pull left through the roof. Up the slab (lots of wires) to where it steepens, then up the wall above (crux) trending slightly leftwards all the way past another 3 bolts. Double bolt belay on the ledge above. A 3m death scramble leads to the top (stay roped up).

Follow DTS but head up when you're on the tree ledge rather than traversing right to cross a rooflet. Move right (crux) to meet 4th bolt of WNWN.

Start from the 4th (right) belay bolt, moving up then traversing left before going up again and traversing right (crux) after the 3rd bolt to meet the 3rd bolt of Gas Mask & finish up GM or WNWN.

Start from either 3rd or 4th (right) belay bolt, passing 1st bolt of Drank The Slab and following the parallel left-leaning cracks on good micro RPs to 3rd bolt of DTS. Finish up GM or WNWN.

Follow Gas Mask to the 3rd bolt then move left around the cave roof to another bolt (14) and continue up and left to the leftmost DBB.

Easily up trending right starting from the 3rd (right) belay bolt.

The 3rd bolt is an easy reach up from the cave.

Crank through the roof, staying as far right as you dare, then up the headwall (move right then heel hook left) to the middle DBB.

Named for a wonderful smell that was blowing in from the sewage plant when I finally freed the headwall (solo).

2m left of first (rightmost) belay bolt. Head up and right on solid holds until you reach the vertical wall. Heel hook over it and walk up to DBB.

A variant finish probably exists up the crack system, not yet climbed.

A variant, slabby, start can be made from the 2nd belay bolt.

Starts 1 m right of the rightmost of the four belay bolts. Crux is the boulder problem start, which is easier for the tall. Very high first bolt, followed by delightful moves up to bolts and anchor shared with Better Out Than In. Named for a big flake that turned out to be loose and hit the route setter in the face on their first outing.

I went back to bolt this & couldn't find it again.

Maybe it only comes out in Summer. Or maybe it was too hard for me when I tried to free it on a microtraxion rather than using ascenders to pick the line.

My earlier notes wete: Essentially a V1/2 boulder problem on rope. Get established on the wall, throw for the good left sloper, stabilise on the right pocket then find a better pocket around the corner. A balancey reach up the arete leads to an easy scramble to the top.

What looks like an interesting bouldery start is actually very easy but has some fun eliminates. Up the pocketed face trending left, traverse right (exciting) & up to ledge. From there directly up with a short layback (more exciting) & crack climb to DBB.

15/12/2019 - block with last bolt before anchor removed with bolt in situ, first bolt tagged with red tape.

Named because no matter where you look you'll find something to hold on to. Nevertheless quite a fun climb, particularly above the ledge.

Shares 2nd bolt & DBB with TPWP.

Slightly overhanging and pumpy start on good jugs. Nice climbing through the low crux (well-protected) to an easy finish.

Up easily to start & slightly left. Find a right hand crimpy side pull on the otherwise blank face to make the ledge. Up from there through the rooflet then some awkward moves to the chains.

Project.

Not bolted.

A boulder at the top of the wall has 2 bolts for TR access.

An easy 5m crack for quick free solo (or trad, if falling in the water isn't your thing) access to Shit Line, Prairie Dog & Hung Like A Sewer Rat.

Easier than scrambling back up, around, and down the cliff.

Up to ledge on good (but reachy) holds then move right for a couple of moves before reaching the crack. Up the crack and arete for a tricky finish.

Named because it was first climbed on trad & there is zero protection for the first 2/3 of the climb.

A great link up following the 3 bolts of Skid Marks, delicately right to 3rd bolt of Uber Skid, more delicately right (find the side pull) to the 3rd bolt of Long Drop, then up to Long Drop anchors

Start at left side of ledge for a direct start to Skid Marks. Up the right side of the arete moving left to meet 2nd bolt of Skid Marks.

A direct line from the start of Super Skid using the face and flake, topping out at the ledge to the left of Long Drop. After the difficult crossover at bolt 1 position your feet for a good hold in the higher horizontal crack below bolt 2. Left crack & right pocket to layback until you're high enough to get good right holds on the flake. Clip bolt 3 & continue up the flake, using the big pocket at the top to move left to DBB or heelhook to ledge.

Up the right side of the first ledge, moving left around the rooflet (slightly exposed) and then up to ledge & DBB.

Up the right side of the first ledge, sharing 1st bolt with Long Drop, then directly up to second ledge. Think about dinner as you wander up the grassy gully (unprotected) for a few metres to the 2nd bolt & up for an enjoyable finish.

Vegetated and well protected.

Climb slabby cracks towards the orange roof. Trend right to go around the arete. Rappel down Burial.