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Glen Osmond Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Laurence Judd pamelalansbury Ben Dickson Paul Badenoch Friendlygoose Liam Cameron Roy CCSA Sam Morris David Newell

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Glen Osmond 21 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.968141, 138.654251

1.1. Glen Osmond Quarries 5 routes in Crag

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -34.973723, 138.652027

access issues

Sensitive area because of how close it is to the expressway.

1.1.1. The Oasis 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: -34.974401, 138.653231

approach

Unclear. The section of the Yurrebilla Trail from 198 Mt Barker Rd currently has Private Road signs as of March 2024. The access from Urrbrae may be complicated by works around the freeway/Hysen Tunnel upgrades.

Old approach description for reference:

Park at side of road near 198 Mt Barker Road and follow the Yurrebilla Trail until metal map/sign at start of the Peregrine Point Trail path (the trail is vague hard to follow until it becomes more defined further down hill). Continue on path. Cliff is about small wooded opening along the path. Could also be approached from Urrbrae side along the Urrbrae Ridge Trail

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Adult Themes

Crack L of arête to the L of Trish Delight. Gain the slab and finish up TD.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Des Norman, David Newell & Chris Oerman, 2006

16 Trad 20m
2 Trish Delish

A varied route that takes a striking line. Begin at the hand crack just right of the arete. A hard start over a small roof leads to good crack climbing and a rest on the L arete level with the main roofline. Swing around R to regain the crack and follow it up the slab past a bush. Climb the ramp up L then straight up the wall just R of the arete.

Quoted from Nick Neagles guide.

FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1989

22 Trad 22m
3 Rapid Disimpaction

Delicate climbing up the arête L of Red Slab.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Des Norman, David Newell & Chris Oerman, 2006

17 Trad 28m
4 Red Slab

The unattractive LH corner in the centre of the quarry.

FA: John Griffiths & Martin Bell, 1971

16 Trad 28m

1.1.2. The Main Quarry 1 route in Cliff

Summary:
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ankle Biters

toproped old aid line (?) at RH end of cliff

FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1988

21 Trad

1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine 16 routes in Field

Summary:
All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -34.961318, 138.658578

summary

Two small rock bands on the side of a cliff on the walk-in into the Wheal Watkins Mine. The upper cliff has a really nice view of the city.

description

Located along the walk-in into the Wheal Watkins Mine. The area consists of a lower cliff and an upper cliff. The rock is of average Adelaide rock so climb with caution. Actual Route names and descriptions to come.

access issues

Not known. There are no signs prohibiting climbing in the area. Of course, don't climb on the mine site itself. Stick to the designated climbing area.

approach

Park in the parking area at the end of Allandale Avenue. This is the start of the walking trail to the Mine. Follow the walking trail taking the left path. Once you get to the boulders (approx 2mins) you can either take a dodgy scramble up or follow the path another 5-6mins until you are above the upper cave. The walk off the path down an easy hill to the upper cave.

ethic

This area is located on a revegetation site known as "Gully Reserve". The land is managed by the Burnside City Council as well as Bush for Life volunteers. Please follow these rules so that we can take care of this site and make a positive example of climbers.

Don't trample any plants. Plantings and valuable remnant veg are often (but not always) marked with bamboo stakes or blue pin tags.

Don't remove plant matter or soil from the rock. There are rare native plants such as ferns that grow in/on the rocks here.

Avoid causing erosion. The soil at Gully is unforunately very soft and prone to erosion. Tread carefully when scrambling up or down the hillside.

history

The area was first established by Paul Kinane and Simon Harris.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 The Upper Floor

Sit start on left hand side of upper cave on the big ledge. Traverse left and out and follow the Layered edges. Finish on good juggy holds or top out on the left hand side.

FA: thestig

V3 Boulder 10m
2 Up the Upper Floor

Start as for The Upper Floor but instead go straight up.

V0 Boulder 4m
3 Possession Obsession

Sit start as for Upper Floor. Follow the same line left but only using the lower break. Finish matched on good juggy blocks at the end or top out. Some bum scraping action.

FA: Paul Kinane

V5 Boulder 9m
4 Line 2

Sit start as for upper floor but head right along lip of cave to meet the right arete and top out via the arete.

FA: Simon Harris

V4 Boulder 6m
5 Box Act

Sit Start in the centre of the cave on sloping/flat edges. Make a big move into a good crimp rail in the roof, continue through the roof on good holds to underclings at the lip, to finish in the big hole above the lip.

FA: Laurence Judd, Sep 2022

V2 Boulder 3m
6 Wish You Were Here

Sit start the main arete. Move to the next sloper hold of this problem then move left to the side-pull in the centre of the roof. From here make a big move to the gaston in the middle of the roof arete and mantle. Either top out or finish on the headwall.

FA: unknown

V3 Boulder 3m
7 Main Arete

Sit Start on good edges with feet on back wall. Head up arete on good jugs to a trickier top out.

FA: Simon Harris

V2 Boulder 4m
8 Con lentitud pederosa

Start on rail crimp on right hand side of cave, move into first jug on inside of arete. Move through middle of roof on sharp holds (pinch or crimp), make big Gaston move with Rh to large sloper jug. Match and finish on the jug above the start of upper floor.

V5 Boulder 2m
9 Wheal of Time

Sit Start on the right arete as for 'Main Arete'. Head up that line until you hit the arete, then head left along the lip until you meet the 'Upper Floor'. Work you way into the break line and finish as for 'Upper Floor'

FA: Laurence Judd, Sep 2022

V4/5 Boulder 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Hole in One

As the lower cave has a rock floor all the following lines have been established/completed with feet above this rock floor.

Sit Start in the large hole in the centre of the cave with hands on decent edges above the opening. Head straight up to good jug then traverse right and finish up 'Whealy Easy'

V2 Boulder 4m
11 Iron Monger

Sit starts matched on the right hand side of the lower right cave. Traverse the lip and top out in the middle of the cave. Mantle.

FA: Simon Harris

V5 Boulder
12 Iron Maiden

Climb 'Iron Monger' but keep traversing left along the lip and mantle the left hand side of the cave.

FA: Redanon

V5 Boulder 5m
13 Whealy Easy

Sit Start on sloping edges of Iron Monger, move up and right via pinches and side pulls to the short wall right of the cave and mantle out.

V1 Boulder 3m
14 Iron Cave Traverse

Sit Start as for Iron Monger but once you are up under the roof traverse left around the inside of the cave to the outer side where you will find a big victory jug to finish.

V1 Boulder 6m
15 Whealy Long

Stand Start on the final jug of 'Iron Cave Traverse' and traverse right around the whole cave to meet 'Whealy Easy' and finish for that.

V1 Boulder 8m
16 Jump & Run

Jump Start to the lip of Whealy Easy's mantle and then downclimb it left to the cave, then continue left into 'Iron Cave Traverse' and finish for that.

V2/3 Boulder 8m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
V0 Up the Upper Floor Boulder 4m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
16 Adult Themes Trad 20m 1.1.1. The Oasis
Red Slab Trad 28m 1.1.1. The Oasis
17 Rapid Disimpaction Trad 28m 1.1.1. The Oasis
V1 Iron Cave Traverse Boulder 6m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
Whealy Easy Boulder 3m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
Whealy Long Boulder 8m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
V2 Box Act Boulder 3m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
Hole in One Boulder 4m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
Main Arete Boulder 4m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
21 Ankle Biters Trad 1.1.2. The Main Quarry
22 Trish Delish Trad 22m 1.1.1. The Oasis
V2/3 Jump & Run Boulder 8m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
V3 The Upper Floor Boulder 10m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
Wish You Were Here Boulder 3m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
V4 Line 2 Boulder 6m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
V4/5 Wheal of Time Boulder 15m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
V5 Con lentitud pederosa Boulder 2m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
Iron Maiden Boulder 5m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
Iron Monger Boulder 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
Possession Obsession Boulder 9m 1.2. Wheal Watkins Mine
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