Routes in Gates of Mordor

The well protected central crack line with varied classy climbing, the route leads up and behind the imposing pillar. climb the crack direct through a corner into a slightly overhanging crack, layback to ledge without escaping right or left. Climb up chimney with small protection to the top of the pillar, jump or bridge the gap across incut ledge to topout and belay.

A serious climb up the exposed face of the main pillar. Climb the crack system of FOTR to the ledge. An 8mm chord wrap was placed around the pillar for the first ascent to protect the delicate traverse onto the face. From the ledge traverse to an insecure shallow corner on the arete, climb delicately to a mantle on slopey ledge. A horn can be slung on the right side of the pillar to protect the top. Follow a strenuous sequence(Crux) to the top of the pillar. Jump from pillar to ledge scramble to topout/belay.