Routes as trad in Tasmania

The L to R diagonal crack traverse. A grouse girdle starting on the left and heading right. Good gear and great fun. Can now be done on bolts since a bolting resurgence has occurred on the cliff. DBB above the crack on the main face

The original - traversing into the line from the left via the trad crack. Can still be done using the original x3 carrot bolts if you feel so inclined..recently retro bolted. DBB

The first vertical crack line right of Criminal Inclinations. Climb it to the wattle tree. It may look dirty, but it's a great lead and will improve with a few ascents.

The flake 2m right of L’Immoraliste. Start at the yellow target painted on the rock. Climb the face to the flake, which is followed to the top. Looks like a bit of a clean could restore it to its former glory.

Originally Led on a single #3 RP, it takes good small cams and gear through the crux.

Right of The Black Wall are two crack lines that are steep to begin with. This is the left one. Don’t let lichen deter you.

The right line in need of a major work to reclaim it from the vegetation.

Scramble up the blocks to the belay corner (DC chimney also starts here). About 3m right of this corner is an obvious vertical crack. Heads up to DBB on top of the col.

Climb 10m up the impressive fist sized split through the cape, to the second set of DBB - clip the left bolt if you want. Step 2m left off the spine into the small crack and follow this to the DBB at the top (please note, this bolt station is not ideal for rapping - use the bolts at the top of Infidel or you risk jamming your rope).

1. 15m Trad. Block hop into the chimney then up it, easy but not much pro, to the DRB.

2. 25m Sport. Fully bolted. Up the arete. 12 bolts plus something to clip the chains. The missing first bolt was recently replaced (Dec 2018)

Original start eroded and now way harder changed from 14 to 17 Moderate Version with traverse from R side

The crack on the face that ranges from finger to fist

Up beautiful looking corner and off width crack just to the left of WIACM can be safely lead with #4 and #5 cams.

Nice finger crack/ layback up the left hand corner

1 Carrot Bolt and gear at the start. Back up top Bolt with sling to tree for belay/ abseil

The first route at Bare Rock.

Use the hand-sized vertical crack to pull around the roof to the face. 1 initial bolt, trad from there.

Access is via the Main Face rappels. Alternatively you can rap the route, but you’ll need to bring plenty of spare biners, as the belays are all double FH.

Note that you can’t French free a lot of the hard pitches, and the escape from the base is not pleasant.

1. 50m (27) 'The Drowning Pitch'

2. 20m (21)

3. 45m (24) 'Crazy Sex Pitch'

4. 45m (26) 'Balls in a Juicer Pitch'

5. 35m (23)

6. 15m (24)

7. 50m (25) 'The Golden Corner'

8. 30m (20)

9. 20m (20)

1. 40m Project

2. 35m Project

3. 30m (25)

4. 40m (24)

5. 45m (24)

Mostly bolted but trad gear needed on some pitches.

1. 25m (17) Fully bolted

2. 35m (22)

3. 30m (18)

4. 30m (26) Fully bolted. Can pull on the crux bolt and do this pitch at 23 A0.

5. 15m (13)

Needs to be retro bolted to make it sane.

Up nose of the downhill buttress, being careful of loose flakes. Scramble to top and around back or carefully down-climb the side.

Follow crack to horizontal break. Up face (runout) to RP nest, then follow seam / cracks to DBB.

Up crack on buttress left of the Ape Chimney. Around small rooflet on right and then to top following the crack system. Scramble off the back of buttress.

The loose and dirty chimney on buttress left of Anzac Day.

Up slab using the crack on the right to first roof, hand traverse to left to crack-line. Up crack to second roof and past this on the right. Follow wall and cracks above to DBB.

Crack-line and face right of Anzac Day. DBB shared with Anzac Day.

Up easy face from ledge to stance below the groove. Place RPs and then follow groove up face to top and DBB. Micro-cams useful.

Follow the fist crack to top, left around arete and up to DBB.

The short face just right of Chook Fever, finishing up the fist-crack.

Bridge up corner left of buttress, layback flakes on LHS of buttress then trend right past bolt, then up face via 4 m runout at top to DBB.

Up face / arete to DBB past FH.

Hand to off-width crack in corner. DBB at top.

Start on left side of buttress, trend right around it and then follow crack to top of Tim's excuses for DBB. Half-ropes useful.

Follow thin crack to DBB.

The loose and awkward chimney.

The smooth arching corner crack. Nice route for a beginner. Big gear not needed.

The face right of Tormentil. Run-out with a critical RP placement.

Line up cracks / face just right of the singular overhanging buttress.

Takes the face up the RHS of the buttress.

The short slab with two bolts, left and uphill of Rogering the Rock.

Up orange face to carrot bolt, through roof on left and up face above to DBB.

Up finger crack in corner (careful of some hollow sounding rock), traverse left to roof. Through roof above to the right then up thin crack (small wires and cams).

The thin, overhanging crack on the lefthand side of Something Scurrilous Buttress. Fiddly and sometimes dubious protection.

Climb the crack on left side of buttress to ledge and up twin cracks to FH. Past FH to handcrack (crux), traverse out right under perched block, mount block awkwardly and follow thin crack on left to DBB at top.

Follows the crack-line on the right side of the buttress using jams and layaways. DBB at top.

Wide crack on front of buttress. Careful of flakes on right.

Flake crack to left of Oisin. Finishing up Oisin or dirty gully above.

Direct start and finish of Alekhines Defence.

Thin crack up the front of the buttress, trending left from the RHS.

Climbs groove / layaway on right until you can step onto face to climb slab (crux - RPs and micro-cams). Then follow crack to DBB. Gear for the slab is bomber and abundant but not obvious from the ground.

Up arete past two bolts and some natural gear (RPs and cams). Past another bolts and more cams to DBB.

Up middle of face to DBB. Good pro despite looks (make sure to step right to place gear in the Ants Pants every now and then when the pro fizzles out on the face).

Crack / chimney to DBB.

Slab / face past 2 bolts, with RPs above bolt (offsets handy).

Finger crack / layaway corner to DBB.

Brilliant arete climbing. Tricky, thin and spaced protection. RPs are placed blind so abseil inspection is recommended.

Cracks / face to top. Walk-off.

Climbs face trending left from the RHS. RP protection.

Climbs the face just right of a vegetated chimney / gully.

Finger crack.

Hand crack above Sundy Mockry.

Easy hand crack. Good for a beginner. Trad-belay at top and easy walk-off.

Face / arete above No Corruption.

Groove / hand-crack past the flake. DBB.

Follow hairline crack and face holds to DBB, trending right to arete as needed.