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Ascents in Victoria as Pink point by Paul Frothy Thomson

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Showing all 30 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Crag Quality Date
27
27 World Party Pitch 2 Sport 12m Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Classic Thu 7th May 2015
5th shot. Linked into P3 for a single mega pitch belayed from the ground with an 80m rope. 1st shot to get the gear on, fix a static to the belay at the end of P1 and suss the moves. 2nd - 4th shot I was using flawed beta. 5th shot with new beta it all came together for a VERY pumped SEND. Bouldery and shouldery, but rad in its uniqueness and exposure. I enjoyed this quite a bit even on my first lap.

 
26
25 26 Archimedes' Principle Mixed trad 60m, 2 Victoria Range Mega Classic Tue 6th May 2014
Dream send! Is this the best climb I've ever done? On JengA's gear (all placed on his onsight attempt, and left quite runout). Ticked 2nd shot after 2 big falls on the flash attempt. Consistantly thin (though with an obvious crux sequence), the sideways slopey crimps are draining on the arms, and make for tricky, slippery footwork. I fought tooth and nail for the tick. The juggy traverse to the arete caught me off-guard for the last super-runout techy move to gain the arete. Exhilerated!

 
26 R
26 26 R The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight) Sport 26m, 7 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Classic Wed 6th May 2015
3rd shot today, 4th shot total. The first 2 shots today were frustrated by the wind blowing horizontal rain straight onto the crux holds, and both shots I fell off the last hold of the crux despite the wet. For the Send shot, I siezed on 30min without rain to do this route in the best conditions I've seen it yet. After sticking the crux, the rest of this climb was Mark and Execute and was never in doubt. Rad! Glad to send this one packing despite rubbish conditions.

 
26
26 Pythagoras' Theorem Mixed trad 50m, 3 Victoria Range Mega Classic Thu 23rd Jul 2015
Utterly stoked! 2nd shot today, 6th lap total (incl. top rope laps). On the 1st shot I had a random foot slip on the last hard move of the crux, but on the Send it went flawlessly. 13min from setoff to topout according to my phone. So much extreme, tenuous stemming and tiny movements relying on friction and tension to stay on the wall. Stressful and intimidating, but very rewarding. This was the 4th (and last) of my big adventure goals to be knocked off in the past year.

 
26 Weak Boy Sport 12m, 5 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Very Good Thu 15th Sep 2016
2nd shot today. 3rd total. Tried to climb this as a warmup today which didnt work well, but cruised it 2nd shot. Short, probably more 25 than 26, but enjoyable climbing. The contrived finish is a bit silly, though I did It properly.

 
26 Rattlesnake Shake - with Will Vidler, Mitch Perkins, Ben Jenga, Christopher Glastonbury Mixed trad 35m, 7 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Classic Thu 18th Oct 2018
3rd shot.... a surprise Send as I power-screamed my way up the route. As the guide says: punchy boulder problems separated by good rests. Varied climbing with some long tough sections giving it a sustained vibe despite the rests. Great rock and a cool position. Deserves more traffic. The traverse start is quite gripping.

 
26 Jumping Viper - with Will Vidler, Ben Jenga, Mitch Perkins, Lucas C, Jason McCarthy Mixed trad 28m, 7 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Classic Sat 20th Oct 2018
4th shot today via the original Will Monks version. Surely the all-free version must be 27++? Doesn't look like much, but climbs spectacularly. The lower half is completely independent, and is classic Taipan bulge-y oozing with a gripping trad start. The upper half is simply spectacular and sustained techo slimper-ing. I had to make a fair bit of noise to coax myself up this as my last climb of the trip.

 
25
25 Terror of the Sea Pitch 1 Sport 20m Victoria Range Very Good Sun 3rd May 2015
2nd shot. Was tired for the crux trying to put the damn crux draw on. Might be soft for 25, but probably harder than 24. I dont see why being short would make this any harder. A cruxy section where this departs Inspector Gadget on miniscule slopey crimps and some powerful moves after, with a runout to the anchor.

 
25 Mr. Joshua Pitch 1 Mixed trad 28m, 8 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Mega Classic Mon 4th May 2015
2nd shot, placing 2 of the 3 bits of trad gear I used. The Onsight attempt was 1 fall reaching to the incut hold at the end of the crux, then clean to the top. Absolutely stunning! Perfect rock, sustained and unrelenting climbing. Every rubbish sloper can be made great with 1 extreme body position or another. Exciting runouts. A true Climber's climb with inspiration in Spades.

 
25 The Undertaker Trad 18m Arapiles Classic Thu 14th May 2015
3rd shot. Slippery and scary, but awesomely brutal. I had no chance to lead this placing gear this trip, so had to settle for the inferior Send.

 
25 Splutter Sport 17m, 7 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Very Good Wed 14th Sep 2016
ALMOST a flash! I fell off the jumpy 1st move on my first go. Fell back to the ground. Stuck it on my 2nd attempt and went to the top. Not as sustained or classy as Dial-A-Llama, but with a hard start, and it makes the shared finish much harder. Totally worthwhile.

 
25 Shattering Reflections Of Climbing Ability Mixed trad 15m, 3 Victoria Range Very Good Fri 16th Sep 2016
Been wanting to do this for a while. 3rd shot. Onsight was a throwaway (its kinda hard to work out where this climb goes at first), 2nd shot I pumped out just before the jugs. 3rd shot was pumpy as hell, but controlled for the Send. Some dubious rock, and kinda short, but fun, steep climbing that gets easier as you go. Guarded by a bouldery crimp-traverse start. Bring a rack of wires, and BD #1 and #0.5 cams, and a long sling to sling the bollard at the top for an anchor.

 
25 Station to Station Mixed trad 22m, 4 Arapiles Classic Mon 18th Sep 2023
2nd shot. First lap was a bit of a debacle, but my first redpoint burn was a controlled cruise -wasn't even pumped at the top. Super funky grampians-esque start, then a burly and technical crack and arete finale. Steep fun in an exposed position.

 
25 Trojan - with Mitch Perkins Mixed trad 86m, 2 Arapiles Classic Thu 21st Sep 2023
2nd shot. My onsight attempt was an absokute debacle -I just couldn't seem to get my head around it, for some reason.

Then, when I figured my beta, the 2nd lap was kinda cruisy, I didn't get stressed or pumped. Weird?

Objectively, its classic, slippery, burly, steep crack climbing, with a ruthless start.

 
25 R
25 R Aftermath - with Simmo Mixed trad 30m, 1 Arapiles Classic Mon 25th Sep 2023
2nd shot. So much fun!!! After seeing all the broken gear on this one, I decided to do an equipping lap, then smashed it second shot. Steep, juggy, intimidating pumpiness through outrageous steep terrain. Im pretty chuffed to say that I reached the anchor completely unpumped

I then downclimbed it to clean it

 
25
25 Ride Like the Wind Variant Mixed trad 20m, 2 Arapiles Very Good Sun 24th Sep 2023
2nd redpoint attempt, after a TRS rehearsal. Took a huuuuge fall on my first RP attempt. Short and hardly a "line" but cool rock and moves, and crazy sustained for a face climb.

 
24
24 Two Tribes Sport 15m Victoria Range Classic Sun 4th May 2014
2nd shot. Had to skip the last clip to battle the pump. Straightforward but enjoyable thugging through ridiculous steepness to the final climactic finish. Who knew I could enjoy steep climbing?

 
24 Krankandangle Sport 15m, 5 Victoria Range Classic Mon 5th May 2014
2nd shot. Steep, heel-hooking funkiness with some big moves and even bigger slopers. The wet holds at the end of the travers-y section made this a bit more challenging. From the "crux" to the runout finish is exhilerating steep climbing.

 
24 Iron Arms Pitch 1 (Iron Arms) Sport 20m, 6 Victoria Range Classic Thu 8th May 2014
3rd shot. Cruised the crux on the 2nd shot, but knocked myself off trying to gain the seam. Got it solidly (but tiredly) on the 3rd round. Until the half-way rest, this route is classic technical slopey body-position climbing. The first half of this climb basically has no "holds". With good footwork and sequences it all flows beautifully and feels right at the grade. Perhaps my favourite climb of the day, and the one I'll remember The Tower for.

 
24 Bang, Bang You're Dead! Sport 13m, 4 Victoria Range Very Good Fri 9th May 2014
2nd shot. Was cruising this on the onsight until I ended up on a red-herring chalked up-hold out left. Grrrr... Weird climbing with tricky footwork and positions, but I enjoyed it. Probably more 23, I think. Better rock than it looks.

 
24 Inspector Gadget Sport 20m Victoria Range Very Good Sun 3rd May 2015
2nd shot. Fell off the bulge on the Onsight attempt. This felt 25 to me. Even with the bulge sequence dialled, I was still working for it! A great route with a wide range of moves on perfect rock.

 
24 Civil War Sport 15m, 4 Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Very Good Sun 17th Jul 2016
2nd shot. Too alpine today and this is a bit too pumpy a route for an Onsight warmup. Probably more gr24 now with the broken jug bast the 3rd bolt. Surprisingly steep, quite juggy but super-sustained. The finale is rad.

 
24 Dial-A-Lama Sport 15m, 7 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Classic Wed 14th Sep 2016
3rd shot today. Pretty sandbagged at the grade, but total class in a short and punchy kinda way. Messed up the top crimp crux on the 2nd shot, but was super solid on the 3rd lap.

 
24 R
24 R Bad Cheques Trad 15m Arapiles Classic Thu 28th Sep 2023
2nd shot. Exciting send in the summery temps. Glad I didn't attempt the onsight, as that start is diabolical! I think this is borderline X without tricams, but maybe only R with them? Alas, I had no tricams. I loved the oozy, slinky style.

 
23
23 Pocket Full of Dreams Mixed trad 25m, 2 Victoria Range Mega Classic Mon 5th May 2014
On JengA's gear at the top. Balked at the start on the flash attempt (1m off the ground) like a pussy, then cruised it 3 seconds later. Desperately thin footwork at the start (and probably bouldery if you're short) leads to runout trad bliss up the corner and out onto the fake to the anchors. The slightly wet thin holds at the top added a dose of spice. A true old-school classic. The first 2 bolts have now been replaced with rings... Thank god!

 
23 Strolling Mixed trad 25m, 1 Arapiles Very Good Fri 15th May 2015
2nd shot. Hard and intimidating for an onsight warmup. Fell off with a surprise slip mid-crux on my onsight attempt (after getting through all the sketchy, dodgy traddy bit), pulled back on and went straight to the top. No giveaway at the grade, with some exciting trad runouts at the beginning and the end. The crucial loose block at that allows you to protect the traverse isn't merely hollow, it actually moves! Rad climbing and a wide variety of moves.

 
22
22 See The Light Sport 27m, 10 Victoria Range Classic Thu 8th May 2014
2nd shot. Fell off the last move to the anchors on the flash attempt (pumped silly). The climb flowed nicely (fluidly) on the second shot, but I still ALMOST fell off on the desperate last move (theres a crucial hold that I managed to miss both times). An amazing introduction to this Taipan/Arapiles-esque style of body-position slopey face climbing that is equal parts baffling as it is amazing to a Blueys climber. Perfect rock.

 
22 Spurting Mildly Sport 12m, 3 Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Good Tue 5th May 2015
2nd shot. Tried to warmup on this in proper alpine conditions, couldnt feel fingers after 4th move and popped off halway between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Okay bouldery climbing that induces a good pump, but over all too soon.

 
22 Cecilia Mixed trad 25m, 4 Arapiles Very Good Tue 19th Sep 2023
Totally botched the start sequence and pumped out, then went back to the ground and sent. Probably about gr20 from the first bolt to the top, but the start is gnarly and slippery.

 
21
21 A Taste of Honey - with Lucas C Trad 27m Arapiles Classic Thu 21st Sep 2023
Not a good warmup I flashed pumped on the last move of the traverse on my onsight, took the whip, and broke my cam

2nd shot was a cruiiiiiiiise and just super fun. More intimidating than Kachoong, and more technical for a steep climb, but not much harde grade-wise.

 

Showing all 30 ascents.

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