Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
21 | ★★ Squish Band
| 22m | The You Yangs | ||
21 | ★★ Backless
From the 2 carrot belay, follow the dramatic corner. When the difficulties ease, traverse left to follow cracks to the top. | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | ★ Strange Angels
Starts 1/2 m right of Maharajah. Pull onto the wall via a jug then step right and then more easily but boldly up. Move right to incipient flake, then up past two fixed hangers to the ledge at the top of the block. Belay/abseil rings. FA: Kieran Loughran & Ian Anger, 1991 | 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
18 | ★ No Pedestrians
| 10m | The You Yangs | ||
12 | ★ Link Up
| 16m | Mt Alexander | ||
15 | ★★ Falls Corner
| 70m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | ★★ Huns Don't Cruise
Nice slab climbing and very committing. Make sure you're comfortable with the fall from the top before committing to the climb. Probably a good idea to have a heavy belayer! FA: Dave Fearnley & Ian Anger, 1982 | 10m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ||
18 | Appetite for Destruction
FA: Matt Brooks | 15m, 4 | Bullengarook Slate Quarry | ||
21 | ★★ European Tour
2m right of IC. Two carrots. FA: Kevin Lindorff, 1985 | 15m | The You Yangs | ||
18 | ★ Lust We Forget
| 15m | The You Yangs | ||
17 | Squash Up, Tony
FA: James Falla, 1985 | 8m | The You Yangs | ||
17 | Action Attraction
| 15m | The You Yangs | ||
22 | ★★ Glace
Up RHF corner crack and ramp to small ledge and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) straight up slab (retrobolted in 2010). | 35m | Mount Buffalo | ||
13 | ★★ Skittle Edge | 96m | The Cathedral Range | ||
15 | ★ Sonia's Downfall
| 10m | The You Yangs | ||
23 | ★★ The Establishment Dyke Finish
| 120m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | ★★★ Glossop Skins Pitch 3
| 30m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | ★ High As A Kite
| 15m | Mt Alexander | ||
28 | ★ Pain and Frequency
FA: Mike Law | 18m | The You Yangs | ||
18 | ★★ Bathtime Gurgles | 40m | The Cathedral Range | ||
18 | ★ Cabaret
| 30m | Mount Buffalo | ||
20 | ★ Ralph The Snail
| 35m | Seven Acre Rock | ||
15 | Line of 79
First crack from the left. With two trusty rusty pitons near the top and a pair of new carrots to belay off up top. | 14m | Meredith | ||
1 | ★ High Street Crack
| 30m | Mt Kooyoora | ||
17 | The Falling Dark
Uphill Arete of gully (no protection) to crack / bulge. FA: Mike Law, 1982 | 11m | The You Yangs | ||
15 | ★★ Mosquito
| 17m | Mt Alexander | ||
22 | ★ Susan's Slab
| 18m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | This'll Do
| 12m | The You Yangs | ||
17 | ★★★ High Street Layback
| 8m | Mt Kooyoora | ||
16 | ★★ Bonaparte-Crun Combination
| 120m | Mount Buffalo | ||
15 | Pilón Numero Uno | 8m | Inner Melbourne | ||
15 | Kiwi Express
Very minimal protection available. | 20m | The Cathedral Range | ||
12 | Body Bits
| 8m | Mount Erica Rocks | ||
22 | ★★ Sunrunner
Reasonably well protected for a Buffalo slab. Rap in from the anchors directly down from the exit of the gulch. The corner of The Viking will be visable to your left. FA: Bob Cowan & John Schwerdfeger | 18m | Mount Buffalo | ||
24 | ★★ Baby-faced Assassin
| 23m | The You Yangs | ||
12 | ★ Tenth Anniversary Climb
| 12m | Mt Kooyoora | ||
9 | ★ High Street Flake
| 15m | Mt Kooyoora | ||
2 | ★ High Street
| 25m | Mt Kooyoora | ||
17 | Locomotive
FA: Matt Brooks | 15m, 3 | Bullengarook Slate Quarry | ||
16 | ★★ Well I'll Be Jammed
| 8m | Mt Kooyoora | ||
17 | Hypocrite
| 13m | The You Yangs | ||
14 | Freight Train
| 10m | The You Yangs | ||
20 | Pretty Tied Up
FA: Matt Brooks | 15m, 3 | Bullengarook Slate Quarry | ||
19 | ★ Something Under The Bed Is Drooling
The left hand line on the front of the buttress beloextw Maharajah and around right from Compulsion. The next few routes start from the top of a boulder. Tricky scramble up or rap down and left from the Sunrunner anchors. | 30m | Mount Buffalo | ||
23 | ★★ Pearly Gates
| 110m | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | Picnic Basket
| 12m | The You Yangs | ||
10 | ★ Peaches En Regalia
| 50m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | Black Serpentine
these 2 routes are a short scrub bash down from CS. they look like they would climb well, however, need a good old fashioned clean | 20m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | ★★ Wicked Solitaire Variant
| 15m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | The Establishment
| 110m | Mount Buffalo | ||
22 | ★ Like a Man Possessed
| 10m | The You Yangs | ||
17 | ★★ Bark In Both Hands DS | 8m | Mount Beckworth | ||
5 | ★★ Bridge of Sighs
| 60m | Hanging Rock | ||
17 | ★ Tensho
| 12m | Teneriffe | ||
23 | ★★ Hurricane
| 38m | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | Sonia's Downfall Direct
| 9m | The You Yangs | ||
20 | Yankee Rose
FA: Matt Brooks | Bullengarook Slate Quarry | |||
11 | The Philistine
| 20m | The You Yangs | ||
26 | ★★ Coming Apart at the Seams
| 18m | The You Yangs | ||
19 | Live and Let Die
Re-bolted with 5 glue in bolts and rap rings 21.6.2003 FA: Matt Brooks | 15m, 5 | Bullengarook Slate Quarry | ||
18 | ★★ A Sting in the Tail
The name says it all. Finger-size layback crack leading to an awkward pull over the top. FA: Chris Cope & Mick Jaeger, 1993 | 7m | Mt Alexander | ||
17 | Supersonic
| 20m | Seven Acre Rock | ||
17 | Lethal Dose
As for Mob Rule, but traverse R under 1st BR and the up to high BR on R. | 11m | The You Yangs | ||
22 | ★★ Superfine
Climb the fist/offwidth crack on the flake left of Glace to a small ledge. BR off the ledge, and follow bolts with homemade hangers(!) up slab (retrobolted in 2010). | 35m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | Return of the Radule
Approx 3m right of Emperor's New Rope, up middle of face, using the bolts of Rush Job to the right. FA: Michael Woodrow & Rod McDoenut, 1991 | 8m | The You Yangs | ||
12 | Apostolic | 8m | The Cathedral Range | ||
19 | ★ Tumbleweed Connection
| 10m | The You Yangs | ||
20 | Bloodnok Direct Start
| 18m | Mount Buffalo | ||
17 | Kiss The Bolt
| 15m | Mt Alexander | ||
10 | ★ Drunk As A Skunk
| 20m | Mt Alexander | ||
19 | ★ Mind Meld
5m right of 'Needlepoint For Beginners'. | 15m, 2 | Mount Buffalo | ||
19 | Unnamed 1
| 25m | Mount Buffalo | ||
11 | ★ Mod-Diff
It is probable that this is essentially a repeat of The China Way after the initial crack. Start as for Gawker.
FA: Rein Kamar, Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1968 | 70m, 3 | Mount Buffalo | ||
10 | Vallum
| 12m | The You Yangs | ||
16 | CU Jimmy
Thin moves up to L sloping diagonal with BR 1 meter inside chimney. After BR go up and L. DBB FA: Phil Benson, Chris Watson & Tony Wilson, 1989 | 8m, 1 | Mount Beckworth | ||
21 | ★★ No Holds Barred
| 190m | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | ★★ The Skunk Steps Up
| 15m | Mt Alexander | ||
14 | ★ The Verandah | 13m | The Cathedral Range | ||
19 | Where Are You Now, Phil Stine?
| 18m | The You Yangs | ||
9 | Cockroach
| 9m | Mt Alexander | ||
19 | ★ Vous Le Vou | 10m | Nowa Nowa | ||
18 | ★ Bloodrot
| 26m | Mount Buffalo | ||
21 | ★ Jam Crack
| 8m | Mt Kooyoora | ||
12 | The Mudshark
| 91m | Mount Buffalo | ||
22 | ★ Kula Shaker
A good introduction to the thin pocketed face climbing featured on this wall. Start as Territorial Pissings (1 FH requires small 'biner) trending right past 2 FHs. FA: KP & Al Rob, 2004 | 10m, 2 | Mt Alexander | ||
13 | Hand-crack
| 8m | The You Yangs | ||
15 | Sheiss | 10m | Nowa Nowa | ||
22 | ★ A Labour of Lust
| 15m | The You Yangs | ||
14 | ★ Low Act | 20m | The Cathedral Range | ||
21 | ★★ Hoddle Street
These routes were well described here. This can be climbed as two pitches. First pitch to the ring bolt is 18 (lower off the single ring-bolt ??). Second pitch is straight up the clean streak past 4 bolts (mix of carrots and fixed hangers), stepping into the line of Alms for the Beggarman at the last bolt and then running it out by moving right to find the small ramp/arete on clean rock and running it out to the top. Belay at chains | 48m | Mt Hope | ||
23 | ★ Raisa
3m right of ET. Two carrots. FA: Kim Carrigan | 12m | The You Yangs | ||
21 | ★ In Lust We Trust
| 13m | The You Yangs | ||
18 | Wound The Wugged Wocks
| 12m | Mt Alexander | ||
20 | ★ Off Your Face
| 8m | Mt Alexander | ||
16 | ★ Love On The Dole
| 50m | Mount Buffalo | ||
10 | Stepping-out
| 7m | Mt Kooyoora | ||
18 | ★★ Pinball Wizard
| 20m | Pulpit Rock | ||
14 | ★ The Crunge Traverse | 12m | The Cathedral Range | ||
21 | ★★ Castles In The Sand
The right arete of the upper wall right of Maharajah. FA: Ian Anger & Jane Wilkinson, 1992 | 35m | Mount Buffalo | ||
14 | ★ Burn-off
FA: Unknown | 20m | The You Yangs |